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Link Posted: 11/20/2020 7:00:58 AM EST
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Originally Posted By patchouli:


Update
Thanks for tip on light
Interestingly it works while it's in my front pocket too.

Weight: I already had the battery pack in when i noted the weight of duals.

Added 2 big fishing lead lures and a 18650 and it felt "right ." seems odd. A Lot of Weight. Oh well.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ScR-KnDcwOI



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZvSfHXVyzRg


Yes I need training. I dont feel comfortable at all yet .


https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/25665/20201119_201713_jpg-1692568.JPG

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Your padding and nape strap might need adjusting, that's a lot of weight
Link Posted: 11/20/2020 9:08:52 AM EST
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Originally Posted By patchouli:


Update
Thanks for tip on light
Interestingly it works while it's in my front pocket too.

Weight: I already had the battery pack in when i noted the weight of duals.

Added 2 big fishing lead lures and a 18650 and it felt "right ." seems odd. A Lot of Weight. Oh well.

View Quote



That's almost exactly how much my Bump needs for counterweight - 28oz (just weighed it, includes Anker 15K). My Ballistic needs 22oz. I just did a shoot with the Ballistic from about 5PM to Midnight, and had no comfort problems, but that's very individual, so YMMV.
Link Posted: 11/20/2020 12:28:50 PM EST
Speaking of flashlight pointed at the ceiling, I know several people have been sporting rotating flashlight mounts like this. I can only seem to find the airsoft version currently. Are those g2g or is there a better mount that airsoft is knocking off?
Link Posted: 11/20/2020 12:31:05 PM EST
Seriously the helmet setup weight does not bother me.
Single camera, power bank in the rear, IR flashlight on the side.
I am not running with the helmet on. Walking with it does not bother me.

If it wobbles too much I guess you need to adjust the chin strap and the nape tension.
Link Posted: 11/20/2020 12:50:25 PM EST
I'm sure this has been covered, but is the sport model worth it or is it better to save up and get the pro? I've been searching here and on the fb group and still can't decide, plus it looked like the pro model was out of stock.
Link Posted: 11/20/2020 1:23:41 PM EST
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Originally Posted By neby98:
I'm sure this has been covered, but is the sport model worth it or is it better to save up and get the pro? I've been searching here and on the fb group and still can't decide, plus it looked like the pro model was out of stock.
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You can be the judge by watching the comparison videos.
For the money, I believe it is a very good option.
If you pair it with a cheap IR light it can give fantastic results.

If you want to be more covert, then the Pro would be better (it requires less extra illumination), or go for the Gen3 PVS 7 or 14 or whatever your budget is cause it sky rockets.

As with everything, it all depends on your scenario, needs and budget.

But, remember, you cannot compare a $400 action camera to a dedicated night vision device developed for the military. You cannot and should not expect it to perform on the same level.
Link Posted: 11/20/2020 1:27:30 PM EST
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Originally Posted By neby98:
I'm sure this has been covered, but is the sport model worth it or is it better to save up and get the pro? I've been searching here and on the fb group and still can't decide, plus it looked like the pro model was out of stock.
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It's really up to you my man - below ~a half moon (or equivalent ambient level) you'll need to click on an IR illuminator with the Black/Classic/Sport - does that matter to you? The Pro does true moonless - just got back from an OH shoot with zero moon, 100% clouds and they did fine. They are out of stock though, you are correct.
Link Posted: 11/20/2020 5:48:15 PM EST
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Originally Posted By mickdonaldson:



It's really up to you my man - below ~a half moon (or equivalent ambient level) you'll need to click on an IR illuminator with the Black/Classic/Sport - does that matter to you? The Pro does true moonless - just got back from an OH shoot with zero moon, 100% clouds and they did fine. They are out of stock though, you are correct.
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Originally Posted By mickdonaldson:
Originally Posted By neby98:
I'm sure this has been covered, but is the sport model worth it or is it better to save up and get the pro? I've been searching here and on the fb group and still can't decide, plus it looked like the pro model was out of stock.



It's really up to you my man - below ~a half moon (or equivalent ambient level) you'll need to click on an IR illuminator with the Black/Classic/Sport - does that matter to you? The Pro does true moonless - just got back from an OH shoot with zero moon, 100% clouds and they did fine. They are out of stock though, you are correct.


I will probably step up to a Pro when a) they're back in stock, and b) they have a sale for $799.
Link Posted: 11/20/2020 9:39:15 PM EST
Thanks for the help. I've wanted to jump into the NV game for a while. I'm gonna to the sport, and I'll probably dump it in a year or two and spend some more. Gateway drugs you know.
Link Posted: 11/21/2020 3:29:21 AM EST
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Originally Posted By glklvr:


I will probably step up to a Pro when a) they're back in stock, and b) they have a sale for $799.
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They're (It) is pretty amazing. The shoot last Saturday was all arfcom'ers with Gen 3 Analog, and more than a few commented that they were surprised how well they did with no moon and complete cloud cover. We shot out to 300 and both steel silhouettes were easily seen, the black a lot more than the white obviously (light colored sand background), and that's before hitting it with the PERST illuminator. For sure the analog looked a lot prettier (we traded gear) - but I tell ya, $2K for binos that worked that well in those conditions, is pretty cool.
Link Posted: 11/21/2020 3:39:57 PM EST
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Originally Posted By barnbwt:

Make them powered by a remote battery while you're at it.
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Originally Posted By barnbwt:
Originally Posted By JohnAdamsIII:
Is there a reason they can't make them without the video recording/memory card portion? Just make it a digital NV monocular and goggle, it would be smaller and lighter.

Make them powered by a remote battery while you're at it.

As an option, yes, but I suspect there's a large user base who don't ever plan to mount it on a weapon or a helmet.  Especially for the Sport.  With a hand held device, an internal battery is a lot more handy than an external power source, whether that's a battery pack or hard wired into a USB charger.  

They could probably ditch WiFi on without losing many customers.  The Sport is the base model, so people who need WiFi would have to jump up a level to get it, same as customers who want to mount on a rifle are expected to jump up a level for a recoil rated SiOnyx with a rail mount.  

Link Posted: 11/22/2020 5:39:21 AM EST
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Originally Posted By WWJBD:

As an option, yes, but I suspect there's a large user base who don't ever plan to mount it on a weapon or a helmet.  Especially for the Sport.  With a hand held device, an internal battery is a lot more handy than an external power source, whether that's a battery pack or hard wired into a USB charger.  

They could probably ditch WiFi on without losing many customers.  The Sport is the base model, so people who need WiFi would have to jump up a level to get it, same as customers who want to mount on a rifle are expected to jump up a level for a recoil rated SiOnyx with a rail mount.  

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WiFi is used for firmware updates, and obviously to stream - which is probably a really big deal to the boating market targeted Sport (mount it outside and stream to the cockpit). If WiFi is off, it shouldn't consume battery? Also, with EVF AUTO-OFF set, battery life should be extended when using as a handheld? There are 1600mAh batteries on Amazon that work, been using them for a while (but just as a backup to an external Anker, worst case).
Link Posted: 11/22/2020 12:02:26 PM EST
Attachment Attached File


Fandyfire
Link Posted: 11/22/2020 12:12:14 PM EST
Has anyone gotten/used the recoil rated version? What’s the verdict?
Link Posted: 11/22/2020 12:53:38 PM EST
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Originally Posted By dixy2k:

Seriously the helmet setup weight does not bother me.
Single camera, power bank in the rear, IR flashlight on the side.
I am not running with the helmet on. Walking with it does not bother me.

If it wobbles too much I guess you need to adjust the chin strap and the nape tension.
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This. For me, getting the chin strap properly set up was critical. The nape adjustment on my helment isn't as snug as I like, but a fix is on the way.

Even without the fix, the chin strap does a good job. One thing I will never do is add needless weight anywhere on headgear.
Link Posted: 11/22/2020 2:44:28 PM EST
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Originally Posted By WWJBD:

As an option, yes, but I suspect there's a large user base who don't ever plan to mount it on a weapon or a helmet.  Especially for the Sport.  With a hand held device, an internal battery is a lot more handy than an external power source, whether that's a battery pack or hard wired into a USB charger.  

They could probably ditch WiFi on without losing many customers.  The Sport is the base model, so people who need WiFi would have to jump up a level to get it, same as customers who want to mount on a rifle are expected to jump up a level for a recoil rated SiOnyx with a rail mount.  

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Originally Posted By WWJBD:
Originally Posted By barnbwt:
Originally Posted By JohnAdamsIII:
Is there a reason they can't make them without the video recording/memory card portion? Just make it a digital NV monocular and goggle, it would be smaller and lighter.

Make them powered by a remote battery while you're at it.

As an option, yes, but I suspect there's a large user base who don't ever plan to mount it on a weapon or a helmet.  Especially for the Sport.  With a hand held device, an internal battery is a lot more handy than an external power source, whether that's a battery pack or hard wired into a USB charger.  

They could probably ditch WiFi on without losing many customers.  The Sport is the base model, so people who need WiFi would have to jump up a level to get it, same as customers who want to mount on a rifle are expected to jump up a level for a recoil rated SiOnyx with a rail mount.  


Were I designing it, I'd make modular endcaps that can include onboard components like display, battery, memory chips, or peripheral ports, so the device can be configured accordingly.  It'd be flashlight-sized for an 'all inclusive' handheld setup, and considerably shorter & much lighter for goggle use.  Put a standardized lens mount on the objective, and now you have an extremely adaptable unit.
Link Posted: 11/22/2020 5:21:50 PM EST
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Originally Posted By clubmanager1:
Has anyone gotten/used the recoil rated version? What's the verdict?
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the verdict is they are far from ideal weapon mounted.  helmet mount is the way to go. with an IR laser.
Link Posted: 11/22/2020 5:27:08 PM EST
[Last Edit: 11/22/2020 5:27:30 PM EST by Banditman]
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Originally Posted By slappomatt:
the verdict is they are far from ideal weapon mounted.  helmet mount is the way to go. with an IR laser.
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Originally Posted By slappomatt:
Originally Posted By clubmanager1:
Has anyone gotten/used the recoil rated version? What's the verdict?
the verdict is they are far from ideal weapon mounted.  helmet mount is the way to go. with an IR laser.



That is how I see it as well. At night I use IR laser and helmet mount and during the day the scope.
Link Posted: 11/22/2020 7:38:23 PM EST
Does anyone else have an issue with the Fandyfire not working with 18650's?  I've tried two different types and they both wouldn't work.  It does work with 2 CR123s though.
Link Posted: 11/22/2020 8:18:18 PM EST
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Originally Posted By KonsKripteD:
Does anyone else have an issue with the Fandyfire not working with 18650's?  I've tried two different types and they both wouldn't work.  It does work with 2 CR123s though.
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Someone here accidentally used CR123's and over heated the light.

Dual CR123 doubles the voltage input to 6VDC. (series circuit)

An 18650 is 3.7VDC

Sounds like you may have a defective Fandyfire unit.

Have you verified the battery voltage to make sure the batteries are charged? (I know stupid question)
Link Posted: 11/22/2020 9:26:06 PM EST
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Originally Posted By Doodles:

Someone here accidentally used CR123's and over heated the light.

Dual CR123 doubles the voltage input to 6VDC. (series circuit)

An 18650 is 3.7VDC

Sounds like you may have a defective Fandyfire unit.

Have you verified the battery voltage to make sure the batteries are charged? (I know stupid question)
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Just figured it out!  I noticed that the 18650's sit a little taller than the stacked CR123's.  I backed the end cap off a quarter turn and it now functions with the 18650's.
Link Posted: 11/22/2020 9:32:27 PM EST
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Originally Posted By KonsKripteD:


Just figured it out!  I noticed that the 18650's sit a little taller than the stacked CR123's.  I backed the end cap off a quarter turn and it now functions with the 18650's.
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Cool!
Link Posted: 11/22/2020 10:39:30 PM EST
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Originally Posted By KonsKripteD:
Does anyone else have an issue with the Fandyfire not working with 18650's?  I've tried two different types and they both wouldn't work.  It does work with 2 CR123s though.
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Yes.
I figured if I tighten the end cap too much it does not turn on. So I know back it off just a tiny bit.
Do it under night vision so you can see how much you need to tighten the cap.
A simple test be not screwing in the cap at all just make it sit in a tilted manner so it makes contact with the battery and the body of the flashlight. It should turn on. That tells you the battery and light bulb are OK. Then learn how much you need to tighten the cap.
Link Posted: 11/23/2020 6:16:28 AM EST
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Originally Posted By Doodles:

Someone here accidentally used CR123's and over heated the light.

Dual CR123 doubles the voltage input to 6VDC. (series circuit)

An 18650 is 3.7VDC

Sounds like you may have a defective Fandyfire unit.

Have you verified the battery voltage to make sure the batteries are charged? (I know stupid question)
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Wait. We're not supposed to use 123s in the FandyFire IR light?
Link Posted: 11/23/2020 6:44:05 AM EST
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Originally Posted By glklvr:


Wait. We're not supposed to use 123s in the FandyFire IR light?
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nope, CR123's dangerously over volts it. 18650 3.7v only.
Link Posted: 11/23/2020 11:43:58 AM EST
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Originally Posted By glklvr:


Wait. We're not supposed to use 123s in the FandyFire IR light?
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Noooooooooooooo!!!!! Unless you want to replicate Chernobyl
Link Posted: 11/23/2020 1:35:38 PM EST
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Originally Posted By mickdonaldson:



Nooooooooooooo­o!!!!! Unless you want to replicate Chernobyl
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Originally Posted By mickdonaldson:
Originally Posted By glklvr:


Wait. We're not supposed to use 123s in the FandyFire IR light?



Noooooooooooooo!!!!! Unless you want to replicate Chernobyl


Yeah, they get really hot!!!
Ask me how I know!  
Link Posted: 11/23/2020 1:57:02 PM EST
Well  after 1 year of lurking in this thread and 6 months of deciding on not pulling the trigger on a set, I found a great deal on EE and got in on this.

Good enough for a lowly civilian like me. I have a helmet set up already...just need to affix an IR light on it and an Anker battery pack.

Gonna take some time playing around with it...came with 2 bridges - Gaspain's MK1 and a LGS MACHOS; gotta see which works best for me.


Link Posted: 11/23/2020 2:40:39 PM EST
Enjoy!
Link Posted: 11/23/2020 3:37:20 PM EST
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Originally Posted By revengeismine:
Well  after 1 year of lurking in this thread and 6 months of deciding on not pulling the trigger on a set, I found a great deal on EE and got in on this.

Good enough for a lowly civilian like me. I have a helmet set up already...just need to affix an IR light on it and an Anker battery pack.

Gonna take some time playing around with it...came with 2 bridges - Gaspain's MK1 and a LGS MACHOS; gotta see which works best for me.

View Quote


99.8% of this board are civilians (not subject to the UCMJ) - you're in good company  Take some time getting it adjusted - it's very personal, with about 10 things to adjust - don't freak out if it doesn't immediately work perfectly. Congrats and welcome.
Link Posted: 11/24/2020 11:30:04 AM EST
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Originally Posted By Drew890:
Enjoy!
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@Drew890 Thanks man!

Quick question for the thread...what is a good source for picatinny/keymod rail sections for knock off (Emerson) Fast Arc helmet side rails?

Link Posted: 11/24/2020 11:49:30 AM EST
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Originally Posted By mickdonaldson:


99.8% of this board are civilians (not subject to the UCMJ) - you're in good company  Take some time getting it adjusted - it's very personal, with about 10 things to adjust - don't freak out if it doesn't immediately work perfectly. Congrats and welcome.
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Very important. Same goes for helmet chin strap adjustments.
Link Posted: 11/24/2020 12:29:36 PM EST
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Originally Posted By gaspain:

I have one from a different seller, it is GTG. https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=bl_dp_s_mw_0?ie=UTF8&search-alias=aps&field-keywords=RUICHI7
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Originally Posted By gaspain:
Originally Posted By markmars:
Has anybody used this mount?

LIVIQILY Tactical Hunting L4G24 CNC Mount Aluminum Frame Helmet Accessories Mount Arm for PVS 15/18


It has good reviews on Amazon for what that is worth.

I have one from a different seller, it is GTG. https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=bl_dp_s_mw_0?ie=UTF8&search-alias=aps&field-keywords=RUICHI7

I'm using a similar mount on a Kota Outfitters ACH helmet and Kiloohm MK1C bridge but can't seem to get the Aurora close enough to my eye.  Any suggestions? I spent some time to fit the helmet properly using Op Specs video.  With the mount adjust as close as possible it won't lock in the down position, the camera contacts the helmet rim.  Maybe I would just get a Rhino II?
Link Posted: 11/24/2020 1:00:13 PM EST
[Last Edit: 11/24/2020 1:06:41 PM EST by revengeismine]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By mickdonaldson:


99.8% of this board are civilians (not subject to the UCMJ) - you're in good company  Take some time getting it adjusted - it's very personal, with about 10 things to adjust - don't freak out if it doesn't immediately work perfectly. Congrats and welcome.
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Originally Posted By mickdonaldson:
Originally Posted By revengeismine:
Well  after 1 year of lurking in this thread and 6 months of deciding on not pulling the trigger on a set, I found a great deal on EE and got in on this.

Good enough for a lowly civilian like me. I have a helmet set up already...just need to affix an IR light on it and an Anker battery pack.

Gonna take some time playing around with it...came with 2 bridges - Gaspain's MK1 and a LGS MACHOS; gotta see which works best for me.



99.8% of this board are civilians (not subject to the UCMJ) - you're in good company  Take some time getting it adjusted - it's very personal, with about 10 things to adjust - don't freak out if it doesn't immediately work perfectly. Congrats and welcome.


Thanks!

I have no experience with Gen 2 or 3, but do have experience with poor man's Gen 1 monos and had been using a Gen1 bino setup with a helmet (Norotos Uni Shroud, RII and removed the bayo for a PVS15/18 socket dovetail adapter). So I have the weights/pouch already and the helmet I purchased came with knock off (but usable for both comms and ear protection) OpsCore RAC headset which helps with keeping the helmet in place as well.

Looking forward with playing with these over Thanksgiving break.

Old poors set up lol
Link Posted: 11/24/2020 3:37:22 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By revengeismine:


@Drew890 Thanks man!

Quick question for the thread...what is a good source for picatinny/keymod rail sections for knock off (Emerson) Fast Arc helmet side rails?

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Not sure if it is the best source or not, but I just bought a set from evike this weekend. $16 shipped with 2 picatinny and 2 wingnut. Amazon had a single picatinny and wingnut for $12 shipped. Or ebay from China. I have not received shipping notification yet, so who knows if it is best.
https://www.evike.com/products/38633/
Link Posted: 11/24/2020 3:51:29 PM EST
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Originally Posted By Torque556:

I'm using a similar mount on a Kota Outfitters ACH helmet and Kiloohm MK1C bridge but can't seem to get the Aurora close enough to my eye.  Any suggestions? I spent some time to fit the helmet properly using Op Specs video.  With the mount adjust as close as possible it won't lock in the down position, the camera contacts the helmet rim.  Maybe I would just get a Rhino II?
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1) All kiloohm products are intended for use with cheap airsoft helmets, I do not know the geometry of any ACH helmet or ballistic helmet
2) both bridges, MK1C and MK2 were designed around the RHNO2. The new new MK2B fits the Wilcox L4G24 better and there is a new rev shipping as of today


Link Posted: 11/24/2020 5:10:31 PM EST
[Last Edit: 11/24/2020 5:13:04 PM EST by glklvr]
While I realize gaspain- being the manufacturer- cannot guarantee fitment other than what he has experimented with, I can advise that I was able to successfully adjust and use an Aurora with both the knockoff Wilcox and a Rhino II on both an ACH and a TW bump helmet.

I will say this: I wear glasses so I will never be able to get the Aurora right up to my eyelashes, however it was very usable in it's position.
Link Posted: 11/24/2020 7:07:33 PM EST
[Last Edit: 11/24/2020 7:10:02 PM EST by Torque556]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By gaspain:



1) All kiloohm products are intended for use with cheap airsoft helmets, I do not know the geometry of any ACH helmet or ballistic helmet
2) both bridges, MK1C and MK2 were designed around the RHNO2. The new new MK2B fits the Wilcox L4G24 better and there is a new rev shipping as of today


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Originally Posted By gaspain:
Originally Posted By Torque556:

I'm using a similar mount on a Kota Outfitters ACH helmet and Kiloohm MK1C bridge but can't seem to get the Aurora close enough to my eye.  Any suggestions? I spent some time to fit the helmet properly using Op Specs video.  With the mount adjust as close as possible it won't lock in the down position, the camera contacts the helmet rim.  Maybe I would just get a Rhino II?



1) All kiloohm products are intended for use with cheap airsoft helmets, I do not know the geometry of any ACH helmet or ballistic helmet
2) both bridges, MK1C and MK2 were designed around the RHNO2. The new new MK2B fits the Wilcox L4G24 better and there is a new rev shipping as of today



Thanks for the info!  I'll check out the new MK2B.  Honestly, the fit is near perfect, just about 1/4" too far from my eye.  It's usable though.

ETA: I did also read (if memory serves me right) that the Kota helmet shroud is not a standard angle.  I don't know how true this is.
Link Posted: 11/24/2020 7:41:37 PM EST
Alternatively, does anyone have a parts list needed for the Aurora to mount it to a ballistic helmet?  Preferably something I don't have to modify.  Thanks!
Link Posted: 11/24/2020 8:58:03 PM EST
As long as you have all the hardware, it should not be any different than mounting it on a bump helmet.
Link Posted: 11/25/2020 3:09:56 PM EST
Any of you guys know which out of all the Emersongear or FMA helmets is the least wide/bulky or streamlined?

The helmet I have fits fine (im a 22" head and helmet is 53 to 59cm) but when it is on it looks like im a little kid in an adult helmet. Lol
Link Posted: 11/25/2020 3:50:17 PM EST
Mounting headphones to the helmet will make your head look normal again.
Link Posted: 11/25/2020 6:50:43 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Torque556:
Alternatively, does anyone have a parts list needed for the Aurora to mount it to a ballistic helmet?  Preferably something I don't have to modify.  Thanks!
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The simplest setup without any modifications is a Wilcox dovetail mount plus a kiloohm (on Etsy) Mk1C or Mk2 adapter. That's it. Your helmet needs to have an NVG shroud, too.
Link Posted: 11/25/2020 9:03:17 PM EST
[Last Edit: 11/25/2020 9:22:10 PM EST by revengeismine]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By SnazSleepWalker:
Mounting headphones to the helmet will make your head look normal again.
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Ive got the headphones mounted and they do make a difference when wearing them.

I def need new padding tho. Gonna have to order a decent set.

I will say the MACHOS make it very front heavy. I just ordered an Anker 15000 Redux with 90 degree cords and also placed an order for Gaspain's MK2...figured that will eleviate some of the weight in the front.

Another question: how sensitive are the Auroras to muzzle blast? I cant use suppressors in my state so im stuck with flash hiders. Im assuming Surefire 3 prongs and AACs are GTG? What about Warcomps?
Link Posted: 11/26/2020 1:15:48 AM EST
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Originally Posted By revengeismine:

Another question: how sensitive are the Auroras to muzzle blast? I cant use suppressors in my state so im stuck with flash hiders. Im assuming Surefire 3 prongs and AACs are GTG? What about Warcomps?
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You will not damage it.
Link Posted: 11/26/2020 6:59:22 AM EST
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Originally Posted By revengeismine:

Another question: how sensitive are the Auroras to muzzle blast? I cant use suppressors in my state so im stuck with flash hiders. Im assuming Surefire 3 prongs and AACs are GTG? What about Warcomps?
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It's digital, not analog. It doesn't have the sensitivity of Gen3 analog, but it doesn't have the same drawbacks, either.
Link Posted: 11/26/2020 1:26:08 PM EST
BF deal on this L4g24 clone. This one works well with the kiloohm MK2B, but not the MK1C.
$79
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Link Posted: 11/26/2020 1:30:00 PM EST
Shout out to Nick Chen and his excellent photography:

Attachment Attached File

Real L4g24 and MK2B mount pictured
Link Posted: 11/26/2020 1:42:38 PM EST
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Originally Posted By gaspain:
BF deal on this L4g24 clone. This one works well with the kiloohm MK2B, but not the MK1C.
$79
www.amazon.com/dp/B07PPDYVGW
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What does the MK2B mount do that the MK1C doesn't?
Link Posted: 11/26/2020 1:50:20 PM EST
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Originally Posted By Torque556:

What does the MK2B mount do that the MK1C doesn't?
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MK2B now has a slot to fix Wilcox geometry better, and has 1" more closer to the eye. The MK1C still works just, won't be as close to the eye, and it works well with the RHINO II.
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