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Posted: 1/16/2015 10:22:30 AM EDT
[#1]
Dont have a shrike nor am i familiar with belt feds but im going to guess a break in period probably shouldnt be done in full auto. I would stick to semi and watch for malfunctions, timing issues, etc... and yes apply lots of lube and clean as needed to make sure all of the parts get broken in properly.
Also post video and pictures 
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Posted: 1/16/2015 10:34:32 AM EDT
[#2]
I would not use Wolf for the break in. I would use a full pressure 5.56 load.
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Posted: 1/16/2015 6:40:06 PM EDT
[#3]
This. Follow directions exactly. Mine works flawlessly
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Posted: 1/18/2015 2:15:02 PM EDT
[#4]
This. Follow directions exactly I would 2nd that and maybe run a few more. I have had trouble getting mine to run without expanding the links and a lot of lube but I haven't been using the best ammo. There is also a guy that sells a guide keeps the rounds going in the right direction. I lost his address but he is in hawaii should be able to find his info in search. |
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Posted: 1/18/2015 3:27:31 PM EDT
[#5]
It took about 500 rounds of Wolf to break mine in.
Of course, I'm one of those people that has to use stretched/resized links to get the belt to feed properly. I recommend against using Wolf ammo. It's copper washed, steel jacketed bullet will wear out a barrel five (5) times faster than a regular copper bullet. |
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Posted: 1/19/2015 8:28:01 AM EDT
[#6]
I broke in my Gen 5 per the supplied instructions. Only brass cased ammo, I went 300 rounds in semi with the linked ammo and an H2 buffer. This was done with their adjustable 16" bbl. After a few rounds I changed the gas adjustment to have the casings and links pretty much fall next to the gun. Don't be in a rush.
If you need the fellas name in Hawaii, I do have his contact info. Good luck 
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Posted: 1/19/2015 11:27:41 AM EDT
[#7]
Just read a thread on subguns where Dillon Case Lube was recommended for the break in period. Guy said he sprays the links down with it and lets it dry, then loads them up.
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