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S1050 up grades (Page 8 of 9)
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Link Posted: 7/16/2017 10:41:10 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By justwannabuystuff:
My small swager rod broke on my 1050.

I found a fast and friendly brass version that is supposed to be stronger

Is it worth it? It's 2x what a factory one is

Any feedback?
View Quote
I don't have one, but when/if mine fails I will likely upgrade to the F&F.  If you do a lot of swaging it's probably worth it.  I've read as long as you keep the Dillon adjusted correctly, ie no flex in the rod at the top of the stroke it should be fine, but there does seem to be more reports of failure than one would expect.
Link Posted: 7/16/2017 10:48:52 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/16/2017 10:50:04 PM EDT by 78Staff]
Did  some testing loading with the PW... I've had it a while and after initial tinkering had planned on only using it for processing brass, as it certainly doesn't have the elegance of a Mark7, but it seemed wasteful just sitting there not hooked up most of the time.  Getting the stroke right is a bit fiddly, but I got it about as close as I can get to a full stroke - before it was short stroking a bit on the downstroke.  I added the Level 10 guide rod and removed the spring, which makes a world of different with automation it seems.  I also upgraded a few other parts, index roller, bearing plate, etc.  I've also got a spare index pawl or two standing by :).

Here's a quick video, haven't decided if I am going to keep it hooked up for loading, but so far seems to be working out well.


Link Posted: 7/16/2017 10:56:51 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By 78Staff:
I don't have one, but when/if mine fails I will likely upgrade to the F&F.  If you do a lot of swaging it's probably worth it.  I've read as long as you keep the Dillon adjusted correctly, ie no flex in the rod at the top of the stroke it should be fine, but there does seem to be more reports of failure than one would expect.
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Originally Posted By 78Staff:
Originally Posted By justwannabuystuff:
My small swager rod broke on my 1050.

I found a fast and friendly brass version that is supposed to be stronger

Is it worth it? It's 2x what a factory one is

Any feedback?
I don't have one, but when/if mine fails I will likely upgrade to the F&F.  If you do a lot of swaging it's probably worth it.  I've read as long as you keep the Dillon adjusted correctly, ie no flex in the rod at the top of the stroke it should be fine, but there does seem to be more reports of failure than one would expect.
I have the F&F swage rods. I replaced my Dillon swagers for the heck of it to see if it's any better. Haven't noticed a difference to be honest but perhaps I haven't swaged enough.

May I ask how the rods tend to fail? Bend? Crack?
Link Posted: 7/16/2017 11:02:14 PM EDT
Nice.

I love the guide rod. The set screw that holds the rod on the toolhead doesn't work so great (kind of useless). The threads strip in the rod so the set screw just falls out. I left it out altogether. It stays on the toolhead without it. I have a lot of toolheads but just two of the guide rods so I swap it out each time. No big deal.


Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By 78Staff:
Did  some testing loading with the PW... I've had it a while and after initial tinkering had planned on only using it for processing brass, as it certainly doesn't have the elegance of a Mark7, but it seemed wasteful just sitting there not hooked up most of the time.  Getting the stroke right is a bit fiddly, but I got it about as close as I can get to a full stroke - before it was short stroking a bit on the downstroke.  I added the Level 10 guide rod and removed the spring, which makes a world of different with automation it seems.  I also upgraded a few other parts, index roller, bearing plate, etc.  I've also got a spare index pawl or two standing by :).

Here's a quick video, haven't decided if I am going to keep it hooked up for loading, but so far seems to be working out well.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJU7fsJnCDs
View Quote
Link Posted: 7/17/2017 12:29:14 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/17/2017 12:32:01 AM EDT by 78Staff]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By djryan13:


I have the F&F swage rods. I replaced my Dillon swagers for the heck of it to see if it's any better. Haven't noticed a difference to be honest but perhaps I haven't swaged enough.

May I ask how the rods tend to fail? Bend? Crack?
View Quote
Seems like the weak spot is on the lower end where the eye bolt screws in, that's where it will flex is not adjust correctly, and eventually cracks.  

I noticed the same on the guide rod, the set screw is worthless, just backs right out.  I just have one but if I decide to stick with the automated game I will pick up a few more I suspect.

Here's a vid of improper swage rod adjustment, which will eventually crack if not corrected.  You can also break them on the upstroke if the shellplate fails to advance, ie the pawl get's overly worn, especially when automated.

Dillon 1050 Swage Rod Flexing
Link Posted: 7/17/2017 12:08:13 PM EDT
Mine broke on a primer that didn't get popped out.
Link Posted: 7/17/2017 3:06:42 PM EDT
Never busted a swager rod. But two have worn out.  The F&F rod works, I have one. It will however not put that slight bell in the edge of the primer pocket like the Dillon will.  I forget who sells it , but someone makes a primer pocket gauge to check your swaging operation.  They note it will not work with the F&F swager rod. I've noticed loading brass that's been processed using the F&F rod that about 1 in 500 primers will get a smudged. From catching the edge of the pocket.  But to be fair that can be caused by other things too.
Link Posted: 7/17/2017 4:03:05 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/17/2017 8:05:52 PM EDT by prskiller]
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Originally Posted By ReefRaider:
Never busted a swager rod. But two have worn out.  The F&F rod works, I have one. It will however not put that slight bell in the edge of the primer pocket like the Dillon will.  I forget who sells it , but someone makes a primer pocket gauge to check your swaging operation.  They note it will not work with the F&F swager rod. I've noticed loading brass that's been processed using the F&F rod that about 1 in 500 primers will get a smudged. From catching the edge of the pocket.  But to be fair that can be caused by other things too.
View Quote
BallisticTools

I bought the 3 pack and they all work great.
Link Posted: 7/17/2017 7:37:21 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By ReefRaider:
Never busted a swager rod. But two have worn out.  The F&F rod works, I have one. It will however not put that slight bell in the edge of the primer pocket like the Dillon will.  I forget who sells it , but someone makes a primer pocket gauge to check your swaging operation.  They note it will not work with the F&F swager rod. I've noticed loading brass that's been processed using the F&F rod that about 1 in 500 primers will get a smudged. From catching the edge of the pocket.  But to be fair that can be caused by other things too.
View Quote
Thanks for this feedback

Has the F&F one ever broken on you?

Mine broke at the bottem where it thread on.
Link Posted: 7/18/2017 1:04:48 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/18/2017 1:09:22 PM EDT by ReefRaider]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By justwannabuystuff:
Thanks for this feedback

Has the F&F one ever broken on you?

Mine broke at the bottem where it thread on.
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Originally Posted By justwannabuystuff:
Originally Posted By ReefRaider:
Never busted a swager rod. But two have worn out.  The F&F rod works, I have one. It will however not put that slight bell in the edge of the primer pocket like the Dillon will.  I forget who sells it , but someone makes a primer pocket gauge to check your swaging operation.  They note it will not work with the F&F swager rod. I've noticed loading brass that's been processed using the F&F rod that about 1 in 500 primers will get a smudged. From catching the edge of the pocket.  But to be fair that can be caused by other things too.
Thanks for this feedback

Has the F&F one ever broken on you?

Mine broke at the bottem where it thread on.
As I said I've never broken one. I did destroy a small swage back up rod once. Damaged case fed in to that station and it got bent.

I did see a guy bend the adjustment link below the swager.

The Dillon rods seem to me like their hit or miss on how hard they are.  I think what did one of mine in was doing nickel plated LC 5.56.  That stuff was hard on the trimmer blades too.

The F&F rod didn't seem to do to well with the 4 crimp staking. Just so you know.
Link Posted: 7/18/2017 3:30:31 PM EDT
Link Posted: 7/18/2017 8:40:00 PM EDT
Thanks guys!

I'm a total reloading noob! Sorry for noob questions :)
Link Posted: 7/18/2017 9:24:58 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/18/2017 9:26:28 PM EDT by ChevelleDave]
Worth every penny, got both small and large FF&B swage rods.
Link Posted: 7/18/2017 9:50:01 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/18/2017 10:16:31 PM EDT by djryan13]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By justwannabuystuff:
Thanks guys!

I'm a total reloading noob! Sorry for noob questions :)
View Quote
Keep the questions coming. This is my favorite thread in the forum. Anything that makes my 1050 better or faster gets huge bonus points. But feel free to open another thread if you need more in depth info..

RE: the F&FB completed round funnel, there is a hole on side. Not sure what it's for but if you put a metal screw in it, it will hold the darn thing on the bin arm better. Didnt mention that in my previous review. I ran about 1k 7.62x25 Tok rounds over weekend. All went perfectly down the tube into can.

That round is an oddball to run on 1050. 9mm everything except powder funnel (30 carbine). Only issue? The case is too short to engage MBF die.

I had to place bullet by hand.

It would have been impossible using my old PW. The mark7 has a "Single Cycle" feature though. Although I am not sure Mark7 would recommend using it this way.
Link Posted: 7/20/2017 9:21:23 AM EDT
Anyone use a decap sensor like this:

https://immortobot.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=133

?

I don't have automation but would like something similar if possible
Link Posted: 7/20/2017 10:09:35 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/20/2017 10:10:10 AM EDT by dryflash3]
Link Posted: 7/20/2017 11:25:20 AM EDT
Good idea JWBS.

You can easily make one. In my thread here:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/475089_Mark-7-Autodrive-on-Dillon-1050-review---Added-some-some-shut-off-switches-.html

you can see how I added a sensor cheaply to my mark 7. Easy enough to wire sensor to piezo buzzer with 9v. In fact, there are examples of using similar sensors and buzzers to detect if the Hornady LNL primer slide is locked back.
Link Posted: 7/20/2017 2:05:12 PM EDT
Thank you both! Off to read that thread!
Link Posted: 8/6/2017 11:08:30 PM EDT
Frankenstein this together tonight! Works!

Link Posted: 8/7/2017 10:45:07 AM EDT
details?
Link Posted: 8/7/2017 2:51:57 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By djryan13:
details?
View Quote
Immortobot de cap sensor(15 bucks)
+
Dillon low primer alarm(25 bucks)
+
Soldering gun

Not breaking swager rods anymore : priceless


When you open the yellow plug end of the immortobot sensor
There will be a black and blue wire
Black connect to open connection on the Dillon and the blue to the red.
Now when a primer fails to pop out it screams at me before I swage into it

:)
Link Posted: 8/7/2017 3:02:53 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By justwannabuystuff:


Immortobot de cap sensor(15 bucks)
+
Dillon low primer alarm(25 bucks)
+
Soldering gun

Not breaking swager rods anymore : priceless


When you open the yellow plug end of the immortobot sensor
There will be a black and blue wire
Black connect to open connection on the Dillon and the blue to the red.
Now when a primer fails to pop out it screams at me before I swage into it

:)
View Quote
Good work!
Link Posted: 1/4/2018 3:35:06 PM EDT
Anyone running a Mr. BulletFeeder In 223 on their 1050?

Love it? Worth it? Hate it?

Any advice prior to purchasing?
Link Posted: 1/5/2018 7:19:35 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By justwannabuystuff:
Anyone running a Mr. BulletFeeder In 223 on their 1050?

Love it? Worth it? Hate it?

Any advice prior to purchasing?
View Quote
I have one, just haven't set it up yet to be able to give a review of it. Hopefully if work will keep me in town, I will be able to get back to reloading some.
Link Posted: 1/5/2018 7:57:47 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By 78Staff:
Did  some testing loading with the PW... I've had it a while and after initial tinkering had planned on only using it for processing brass, as it certainly doesn't have the elegance of a Mark7, but it seemed wasteful just sitting there not hooked up most of the time.  Getting the stroke right is a bit fiddly, but I got it about as close as I can get to a full stroke - before it was short stroking a bit on the downstroke.  I added the Level 10 guide rod and removed the spring, which makes a world of different with automation it seems.  I also upgraded a few other parts, index roller, bearing plate, etc.  I've also got a spare index pawl or two standing by :).

Here's a quick video, haven't decided if I am going to keep it hooked up for loading, but so far seems to be working out well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJU7fsJnCDs
View Quote
Where did you get that bracket on top of the case feed plunger?

I'm using zip ties.
Link Posted: 1/6/2018 3:48:19 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By Ridgeline:

Where did you get that bracket on top of the case feed plunger?

I'm using zip ties.
View Quote
Inline Fab... https://inlinefabrication.com/collections/dillon/products/case-feed-stop-dillon-1050

Works so much better than zip ties or pipe cleaner, etc :)

Link Posted: 1/6/2018 7:47:59 PM EDT
Bought tons of stuff from them and never saw that.

Thanks!
Link Posted: 1/7/2018 12:29:32 AM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By NoScoE30:
Hey,

Has anybody used any 1050 parts from fast and friendly brass? They spend a good chunk of the text on their website talking trash about Dillon's parts and the material they are made of.

I can tell you guys for a fact he is flat out lying about the 1050 "link arm" and "crank arm" being made out of a low grade aluminum casting.

The factory stock link arm is made out of 6061 t-6 barstock and CNC machined.

He has made new parts out of the exact same material as the Dillon spec, to guessed tolerances, and without the hard anodizing.

He also is charging more for the same part from Dillon.

There were also prototypes made out of 7075 but they were too brittle.

Edit:extra clarification
View Quote
I've got a 2 piece Dillon link arm
Link Posted: 1/8/2018 2:24:58 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/8/2018 2:25:17 AM EDT by justwannabuystuff]
Someone local to me is selling a 1050 toolhead

Of course he is missing the rachet part on the toolhead

How can I ID if it’s a 1050S or 1050R toolhead?
Link Posted: 1/8/2018 9:08:42 AM EDT
You broke a link arm, where did it break ?
Link Posted: 1/8/2018 9:15:57 AM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By justwannabuystuff:
Someone local to me is selling a 1050 toolhead

Of course he is missing the rachet part on the toolhead

How can I ID if it’s a 1050S or 1050R toolhead?
View Quote
The guide rod on the 1050r tool head might be shorter than the one on the 1050S.   I had some 1050R tool head at one time . But sold them off.   Maybe if someone here has one.  If we could get a measurement to compare.
Link Posted: 1/8/2018 11:02:34 AM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By angus6:

I've got a 2 piece Dillon link arm
View Quote
I broke one a few years ago.  Ordered a new one and a spare.  Luckily I haven't needed the spare.
Link Posted: 1/8/2018 5:15:46 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By Hoser:

I broke one a few years ago.  Ordered a new one and a spare.  Luckily I haven't needed the spare.
View Quote
IIRC you have several 1050's , hope if you need the spare the machines are all the same date range as they changed the design at least once, my luck the spare would just fit the unit that had the replacement
Link Posted: 2/5/2018 3:58:15 PM EDT
Mr Bulletfeeder in 223 on a 1050S makes loading a breeze!

Loading tool head:
Station 1: Lee decap ( just in case)
Station 2: M die / no Swage
Station 3: primer
Station 4: Powder
Station 5: Powder check
Station 6: Mr Bulletfeeder
Station 7: RCBS combo seat / crimp die

Prep tool head:
Station 1: Lee decap
Station 2: Swage with FF rod
Station 5: Resize die
Station 6: RT1500 trim
Link Posted: 2/5/2018 6:17:26 PM EDT
Been thinking about retooling one of the .223 tool heads.

Station #2 Dillon decapping with expander ball .
#3 swag back up die. Adjusted so the die body hits the shell plate. This bottoms out on the plate to eliminate tolerance stacking. Help to give better consistency.
#5 swager back up die , body only. Adjusted just like the die in #3.
#6 Dillon carbide trimmer die. Maybe with a new trimmer motor.
#7 Another swagger die body only. This will also keep the tool head from tipping when it bottoms out .
#8. Redding .223 neck sizing die. Adjusted so the die doesn't touch the out side of the neck. It's only purpose is so that the carbide expander passes though the neck. Nice consistent neck tension.
Link Posted: 2/5/2018 8:34:30 PM EDT
I worry about necks during loading pass.

I process a ton of brass at once. I sometimes use a variety of bullets including lead or flat base which could require different neck setup.

Also, I tend to wet tumble after trim which can change neck tension.
Link Posted: 2/6/2018 8:55:15 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/6/2018 9:00:32 AM EDT by ReefRaider]
My Max run time for wet tumble is 1:15. Fact is it's more then clean enough at 30 mins. I use 10 lbs of pins to 7 lb of brass.

I have a swager back up rod that's been cut down.  The swager back up die  can be put into the loading head and adjusted to bell the case mouth. It can then get closed back up with a tapper crimp die. This is used when loading flat based projectiles. At the end of the day optimum neck tension should work with just about everything.  My process should be as close as I can get to that.

My concern with the tool head set up described above is.  The consistency of the brass. Right now I can adjust the headspace and trim length with the turn of a wrench.  Doing that while sizing with the trimmer die will take much longer and if correction is needed which most times it is that's not an option.
Link Posted: 3/22/2018 1:59:04 PM EDT
I recently came into a 1050 on a deal that would make most people angry. However the toolhead compression spring was toast, so I ordered a new one from level 10 innovations. Very happy with this item so far, and the price is barely higher than the factory spring. It also comes with a spiffy and much nicer looking bushing.
Link Posted: 3/23/2018 11:15:03 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By Redarts:
I recently came into a 1050 on a deal that would make most people angry. However the toolhead compression spring was toast, so I ordered a new one from level 10 innovations. Very happy with this item so far, and the price is barely higher than the factory spring. It also comes with a spiffy and much nicer looking bushing.
View Quote
If you ever go with an Autodrive, get rid of the spring and use their springless system. At least I think its level 10 that makes it. Just a guide rod.
Link Posted: 3/24/2018 12:43:25 AM EDT
The Level 10 spring is very nice. They several nice upgrade or replacement parts for the 1050.
Link Posted: 3/24/2018 2:08:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/24/2018 2:11:20 PM EDT by ReefRaider]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By djryan13:
If you ever go with an Autodrive, get rid of the spring and use their springless system. At least I think its level 10 that makes it. Just a guide rod.
View Quote View All Quotes
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By djryan13:
Originally Posted By Redarts:
I recently came into a 1050 on a deal that would make most people angry. However the toolhead compression spring was toast, so I ordered a new one from level 10 innovations. Very happy with this item so far, and the price is barely higher than the factory spring. It also comes with a spiffy and much nicer looking bushing.
If you ever go with an Autodrive, get rid of the spring and use their springless system. At least I think its level 10 that makes it. Just a guide rod.
Have put the auto drive version on both of my 1050s .  While I had come up with a way to tighten the ram bolt up to remove as much of the twist out of the tool head.  These guide rods have removed it all. Seems the whole press runs smother with it installed.
Link Posted: 3/24/2018 2:10:32 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By justwannabuystuff:
Mr Bulletfeeder in 223 on a 1050S makes loading a breeze!

Loading tool head:
Station 1: Lee decap ( just in case)
Station 2: M die / no Swage
Station 3: primer
Station 4: Powder
Station 5: Powder check
Station 6: Mr Bulletfeeder
Station 7: RCBS combo seat / crimp die

Prep tool head:
Station 1: Lee decap
Station 2: Swage with FF rod
Station 5: Resize die
Station 6: RT1500 trim
View Quote
FYI. Station #1 is the case feed
Link Posted: 4/19/2018 7:17:39 PM EDT
Just saw this, think this will work fine for one less tool less operation.

EC's Quick Disconnect for Dillon Powder Measure
Link Posted: 4/19/2018 7:49:50 PM EDT
Now that's a good idea! I always wondered why nobody made a qd mount for them. I made do with large thumbscrews.
Link Posted: 4/19/2018 8:42:19 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By prskiller:
Just saw this, think this will work fine for one less tool less operation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CX5KqalBT8M
View Quote
Oh nice I ordered a couple... if they work as well as it appears I'll order more  Those screws drive me nuts.

I also picked up the annealeeze marker mount to try, seems like a clever idea.
Link Posted: 4/19/2018 11:35:05 PM EDT
Love it
Link Posted: 4/20/2018 2:08:59 AM EDT
OMG, that is soooo cool. I freaking hate taking the PM on and off, especially when your S 1050 is mounted where you cannot get behind it.

Got one of the PM QD's, also got a couple of the pull tabs to try out. 2 bucks, what the hell.

If I am correct, I met this guy through a FB RPR site a few years back, he sent me some of the RPR mag release tabs to try out. Kind of a Beta test I guess. It worked very well for me due to the condition of my hands. Really nice guy, seems to be pretty smart, a lot of innovative reloading tools on the website.

I do not understand what the Tormach tool is for. Bottom right corner of the products.
Link Posted: 4/20/2018 7:59:41 AM EDT
I'm actually really excited about that powder measure tool. To me the worst part of setup on a Dillon is adjusting the measure and die for expansion, this will make it much less painful.
Link Posted: 4/20/2018 9:45:01 AM EDT
I ordered a few.. Isnt this the same company that infringed on MBF patents? Not cool. Hate supporting that kind of IP theft.
Link Posted: 4/20/2018 10:28:59 AM EDT
It is, but how many ways can you build a working collator and not infringe on a patent like that? I guess you can do like GSI, but it's worse in almost every way other than using one fewer station. Patents can be fairly broad, I wouldn't throw them under the bus for that necessarily.
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S1050 up grades (Page 8 of 9)
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