Hello Everyone,

I am doing what a lot of you on this forum are doing.  I bought an old Remington Wingmaster 870 and I am going to convert the old beauty into a new powerful scattergun!

I understood that my own knowledge on how to refurbish a shotgun is very limited.  So I thought I would be good to start a thread that everyone can pitch in and submit there experience / ways on improving the wonderful 870!

Wilson Combat offers a  program that allows for a person to convert their old 870 into an upgraded shotgun.  However, at a price of $230!  To some of you it might be worth it.  But I always like to do things myself if possible because you learn through it and it makes the experience more personal with the weapon.

So to keep things simple lets first just work off the upgrades that Wilson Combat does through their Remington Steal program...  However, if you know of some other upgrade that helps the 870 function at its best please feel free to share with us all!:

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• Replace all worn and/or damaged parts
• Convert to 3" (if applicable)
• Convert shell feed to flexitab anti-jam system
• Install new Factory Remington synthetic buttstock and fore grip
• Install new factory Remington magazine spring and follower
• Replace safety with current design
• Strip and parkerize all external parts
• Replace trigger assembly with a professionally remanufactured trigger group

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If you know how to do one of these upgrades please do a write up as detailed as you feel is needed so we can all share and gather our knowledge!  And again, if there is something you For example I have some ideas on how to refinish the 870, but I have no idea how one would go about converting the weapon to 3" shells.  So hopefully we can all pool our info together and have more of a comprehensive thread directly dedicatedly to refurbishing the Remington 870!

Strip and parkerize all external parts:

I'll start with talking about a product that I feel is comparable to parkerizing.  Its the ALUMA-HYDE II from Brownells.  This stuff really seems to be a relatively durable finish given to almost any type of material.  Whether it be metal, wood, or plastic it does a great job in coloring and protecting the weapon.  It comes in a ton of awesome colors too.  

Here are some YouTube videos below that help you learn how to apply the product correctly:

1)  Introduction

2)  Metal Preparation

3)  Using Aluma-Hyde II

I am almost finished with my conversion. Probably should have just bought a new gun:

Any how Flex Tab conversion from Brownell's, about $89
New Stock and forarm around $50-80
Refinish $125-180
Oversized Safety $25-35
New barrel $129 for 3"

Expert work on your safety and trigger assembly....

I did the Alumahide, but am going to send it in for parkerizing. The Wingmaster recievers are not rated for 3" shells. I believe the real trick is that you need the bolt that comes with the Flextab conversion combinde with the 3" barrel. Combinde you should be safe. Putting the old bolt I into a 3" Barrel, may be a problem. Has for converting you barrel, by the time you got the reamer and lathe you could have purchased 2 shotguns, at least.

• Replace all worn and/or damaged parts
Remington's seldom HAVE any worn or damaged parts, and if they do, you can usually replace them yourself.

• Convert to 3" (if applicable)
This involves re-chambering the barrel and replacing the ejector assembly in the left receiver wall.
The ONLY difference between a 2 3/3" receiver and a 3" IS the ejector.

In the real world, you'll have very little use or reason to shoot 3" shells.  
The 3" loads have a LOT of recoil and muzzle blast, and actually slow down follow up shots.  In fact, these days, a lot of police and civilian shooters are using the reduced recoil loads that lower the amount of recoil.
Simple fact is, 3" shells are not only not needed, they're a determent.
Remember, for the most part, Magnum loads do NOT shoot "harder" or farther, they just put out a few more pellets, which is to increase the chances of hitting game at longer ranges.
At combat distances, the recipient will never notice the extra few pellets, and they will not increase the effectiveness of what's already an overpowered load.

• Convert shell feed to flexitab anti-jam system
This is to prevent a jam where YOU FAIL TO LOAD THE GUN PROPERLY.
If you fail to fully insert the shell into the magazine until it's caught by the shell latches, it can slip back out into the receiver.  This requires that the trigger group be removed to dump the shell out, or by banging the butt on the ground while you forcibly open the action.

The Flex-Tab allows you to clear the jam by just pulling the forearm back.
The Flex-tab unit is a special shell lifter AND a new bolt with a clearance cut.
You can buy the unit from Brownell's and others, for something like $80.00 or so.
Since the stoppage is USER INDUCED, the real answer is to practice loading until you don't screw it up.

• Install new Factory Remington synthetic buttstock and fore grip
This is an easy owner change out.  The butt stock requires a large screwdriver.
The forearm requires a special spanner wrench, OR a suitable substitute can be made.
All that's necessary is a piece of 1/8" steel that fits between the notches in the forearm nut.  You can turn it with a pair of Vise-Grips.

• Install new factory Remington magazine spring and follower
Again an EASY owner change out, even if it's necessary.  Most 870's have perfectly good springs and followers.
You can buy a new spring and one of the heavy-duty magazine followers, OR you can install a magazine extension kit.  Again, an easy upgrade.

• Replace safety with current design
May not be needed, unless the gun is a newer model that had the now-discontinued locking safety button.
If the gun is an older one, and you really want, you can easily install a large head safety.

• Strip and parkerize all external parts
There are any number of places that will parkerize the gun for a decent price.
Other options are a do-it-yourself "spray on" finish that is air or oven cured, or there are MANY different types of gun finishes you send the gun out to have applied.

• Replace trigger assembly with a professionally remanufactured trigger group
Unnecessary unless the trigger group is obviously defective.
I "think" the  group they'll install is one of the Express plastic units.  There's nothing wrong with these, and they are good, strong units, but if you have an older Wingmaster or Police it has the aluminum group.  Why loose it for plastic, when there's no need to change anything.

Bottom line: with minimal tools you can do everything except a parkerized finish.
Unless you absolutely just can't live without owning a 3" gun, stick with the standard 2 3/4" gun, which unless you love being beaten to death by recoil, that's what you'll shoot anyway.

If you do it yourself, you can sell the stock and other parts and help fund the conversion.
Send it to Wilson, and they KEEP the stock and parts.  If the gun is one with a walnut stock and forearm,  Wilson is keeping some valuable parts which you could make money on.