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Posted: 11/20/2008 3:45:58 PM EDT
Guys - I really could use some help. I just inherited a Remington 870 with a 28" barrel w/ventilated rib. The gun was left in a soft sided cases for many years and has rusted up. The barrel looks really bad and the receiver has several small areas of fairly heavy rust.
What methods can I use to restore the receiver? The inside of the receiver is rust free and I plan to turn it into a "fighting" shotgun. It's a shame... 
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Posted: 11/20/2008 3:56:42 PM EDT
[#1]
Sandblast with aluminum oxide and then duracoat.
I did one with "matte black" and it turned out really good. |
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Posted: 11/20/2008 4:00:37 PM EDT
[#2]
Scrub it with 0000# steel wool and WD-40. Get Van's instant blue, call it good.
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Posted: 11/20/2008 4:34:56 PM EDT
[#3]
Thanks for the replies.
After poking around on the net, it looks like bead blasting is the way to go. Steel wool won't cut through this rust... I was thinking using some shade of green duracoat on the receiver and barrel while leaving the receiver pins and trigger guard assembly blued. The barrel is going to be cut down to around 19" |
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Posted: 11/20/2008 4:50:24 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
Thanks for the replies. After poking around on the net, it looks like bead blasting is the way to go. Steel wool won't cut through this rust... I was thinking using some shade of green duracoat on the receiver and barrel while leaving the receiver pins and trigger guard assembly blued. The barrel is going to be cut down to around 19" PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE in the name of all that is holy - DO NOT USE GLASS BEADS!!! Grit blast that puppy with ALUMINUM OXIDE GRIT (I go for the fine stuff like 220 though perhaps something as rough as 150 might be needed for your rust monster). Then DuraCoat it (degreasing should be done somewhere in there, at least twice). Glass bead blasting should only EVER be used on stainless steel parts as a substitute for a polishing operation (like to get out a scratch or even up the luster). GLASS BEADS ARE EVIL INCARNATE FOR EVERY OTHER APPLICATION. |
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Posted: 11/20/2008 5:25:47 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Thanks for the replies. After poking around on the net, it looks like bead blasting is the way to go. Steel wool won't cut through this rust... I was thinking using some shade of green duracoat on the receiver and barrel while leaving the receiver pins and trigger guard assembly blued. The barrel is going to be cut down to around 19" PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE in the name of all that is holy - DO NOT USE GLASS BEADS!!! Grit blast that puppy with ALUMINUM OXIDE GRIT (I go for the fine stuff like 220 though perhaps something as rough as 150 might be needed for your rust monster). Then DuraCoat it (degreasing should be done somewhere in there, at least twice). Glass bead blasting should only EVER be used on stainless steel parts as a substitute for a polishing operation (like to get out a scratch or even up the luster). GLASS BEADS ARE EVIL INCARNATE FOR EVERY OTHER APPLICATION. Huge +1000000000000!!!!!!!!!! Aluminum Oxide for the win charlie! Morne is right on the money, as usual. Take it apart plug orifices (buy rubber plugs from a hardware store) Degrease. aluminum oxide blast blow off with compressed air degrease degrease again wipe down paint wait 45 minutes paint second coat let sit 2 to 3 days reassemble show to friends, impress the hell out of em. you da man. Here are a few that were previous rust buckets 
If curious, here is a before look on the first one. Yeah, Duracoat works. If you prep. 
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Posted: 11/21/2008 1:17:01 AM EDT
[#6]
Will do...aluminum oxide for the win!
Thanks for the great advice and pics! Can I use Duracoat to blacken the bolt? Unique1: What colors did you use? |
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Posted: 11/21/2008 5:58:46 AM EDT
[#7]
I LOVE the before pics of that doggie chew toy !~
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Posted: 11/21/2008 7:57:42 AM EDT
[#8]
I'd use Gunkote to do the bolt.
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Posted: 11/24/2008 12:28:39 PM EDT
[#9]
This was my wife's that got rust on the barrel. I spent the money and have Cerakote put on it. Its ready for another 20yrs..
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Posted: 11/24/2008 5:31:32 PM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
I LOVE the before pics of that doggie chew toy !~ That is EXACTLY what it was too. funny! What colors were you curious about OP? Several listed. Top one was Tiger Stripe Green and matte black stock. One was woodland brown One was woodland tan/bron and green Actually two were, just different color sequences and patterns. One was Woodland tan. |
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Posted: 11/27/2008 10:42:45 AM EDT
[#11]
how did you get the stock cleaned up blasting?
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Posted: 11/27/2008 12:29:59 PM EDT
[#12]
I assume you're asking me?
I blast it completely, then hand sand it with 220 grit. Paint a coat of whatever I have that is plentiful (it will soak up the paint worse then a sponge!). Then hand sand it down til it's smooth as glass.. you will get bare spots and that's ok. Then paint with the rest of the parts ( I do this in two to three LIGHT coats ). The more dense (expensive) the stock is, the less sanding is needed. |
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Posted: 1/26/2009 7:26:02 PM EDT
[#13]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Thanks for the replies. After poking around on the net, it looks like bead blasting is the way to go. Steel wool won't cut through this rust... I was thinking using some shade of green duracoat on the receiver and barrel while leaving the receiver pins and trigger guard assembly blued. The barrel is going to be cut down to around 19" PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE in the name of all that is holy - DO NOT USE GLASS BEADS!!! Grit blast that puppy with ALUMINUM OXIDE GRIT (I go for the fine stuff like 220 though perhaps something as rough as 150 might be needed for your rust monster). Then DuraCoat it (degreasing should be done somewhere in there, at least twice). Glass bead blasting should only EVER be used on stainless steel parts as a substitute for a polishing operation (like to get out a scratch or even up the luster). GLASS BEADS ARE EVIL INCARNATE FOR EVERY OTHER APPLICATION. Huge +1000000000000!!!!!!!!!! Aluminum Oxide for the win charlie! Morne is right on the money, as usual. Take it apart plug orifices (buy rubber plugs from a hardware store) Degrease. aluminum oxide blast blow off with compressed air degrease degrease again wipe down paint wait 45 minutes paint second coat let sit 2 to 3 days reassemble show to friends, impress the hell out of em. you da man. Here are a few that were previous rust buckets http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm155/uniqe1_photo/IMG_0609.jpg http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm155/uniqe1_photo/IMG_0781.jpg http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm155/uniqe1_photo/IMG_0910.jpg http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm155/uniqe1_photo/IMG_1036.jpg http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm155/uniqe1_photo/IMG_0051.jpg If curious, here is a before look on the first one. Yeah, Duracoat works. If you prep. http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm155/uniqe1_photo/IMG00024.jpg Nice 870s How does the finish hold up on the forend tube bars? |
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Posted: 1/27/2009 5:45:55 AM EDT
[#14]
Very well. If you prep it properly. 99% of durability is in the prep.
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