Priming cases with the Dillon 550

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Priming cases with the Dillon 550

Posted: 4/17/2010 9:07:24 AM EST

I have tried several ways of priming cases, but I always go back to my RCBS hand priming tool. The feel is just superior, and that is what I have always done.

I ordered a new Dillon 550 setup this past week and am finally stepping up to a progressive. I am wanting to hear from you guys who load on 550's. Do you prime with the press or do you still use a hand priming tool?

I am hoping that the 550 will be able to rid me of this extra step and allow me to prime as part of the progressive reloading process. But I want to know that my cases are primed correctly, as if I had primed them by hand.

Posted: 4/17/2010 9:17:13 AM EST

When I ran my 550, I only primed pistol cases (9x19, 38 Super and 45acp) on the press.

When I did 223/556, I hand primed, and fed primed cases to press for final assembly.

Posted: 4/17/2010 9:48:40 AM EST

Did you do that out of habit, or was there some reason you didnt like priming rifle cases on the 550?

I dont mind hand priming my precision 308 stuff, but the main reason I bought the 550 was to load large quantities of quality 5.56 ammo. I would love to be able to prime these as part of the loading process on the 550.

Posted: 4/17/2010 9:56:19 AM EST

I've primed on my 550b for 15 years with very few issues. Once I had a primer get flipped over and primed it backwards and I've had a few get crunched sideways over the years, but it's rare. Get yourself a Sinclair primer pocket uniformer for Lg and Sm primer pockets and use those for rifle rounds. My biggest issue was getting high primers that needed a couple/few 'reseats' over the years, but not any longer.

Keep the primer system free of debris and it should work fine.

Chris

Posted: 4/17/2010 11:48:59 AM EST

I have always used the Dillon priming system on my 550 on both pistol and rifle cartridges.

Posted: 4/17/2010 11:51:27 AM EST

Quoted:
I have always used the Dillon priming system on my 550 on both pistol and rifle cartridges.

this.

i have primed thousands of rifle brass from 223 to 300 win mag on my 550

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Posted: 4/17/2010 12:50:13 PM EST

You push forward on the operating handle to perform the priming function on that press. A lot of presses work that way. At that time the only thing going on is the priming of the case and I think you get a pretty good feel for what's going on. I have always used the press to prime the cases and see no reason not to. You get some leverage with the press handle and still maintain some sensitivity to feel what's going on.

Posted: 4/17/2010 1:04:22 PM EST

Quoted:
You push forward on the operating handle to perform the priming function on that press. A lot of presses work that way. At that time the only thing going on is the priming of the case and I think you get a pretty good feel for what's going on. I have always used the press to prime the cases and see no reason not to. You get some leverage with the press handle and still maintain some sensitivity to feel what's going on.

Excellent. Well articulated. And exactly what I am hoping to experience myself.

Posted: 4/17/2010 1:14:42 PM EST

Haven't used my hand priming tool since I got my Dillon a couple years ago. Only issue I've ever had was from improperly de-crimped primer pockets from military brass. That was totally my fault and not a 550 issue.

Posted: 4/17/2010 5:22:16 PM EST

The priming system works great on a 550, there is no need to hand prime.

If you did hand prime, you are throwing away the advantage of a progressive (Speed).

You can "feel" the primer seating, and the bottom of the primer pocket, if your primer pockets and brass are prepped correctly.

The thing that will screw up the priming system is spilled powder, and that is the fault of the loader.

Just take apart and clean, good as new.

If you want to load in volume, batches of 500 or 1k, buy extra primer tubes and make a primer tube holder.

Posted: 4/18/2010 4:44:24 AM EST

Spend the extra 50 buxs on the roller handle too, big improvement for feeling the primers seat

Posted: 4/18/2010 5:08:20 AM EST

Quoted:
Spend the extra 50 buxs on the roller handle too, big improvement for feeling the primers seat

Yes, roller handle FTW.

Then there is the wood disc for the PM.

2 inch diameter disc allows hand adjustment of the PM instead of a 7/16 wrench.

Posted: 4/18/2010 5:43:26 AM EST

Don't forget the zero buxs locator button mod

Posted: 4/18/2010 5:57:32 AM EST

Quoted:
Don't forget the zero buxs locator button mod

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n237/DVCER/IMGP0025.jpg

OK, I'll bite. What's the purpose of the tabs? Handles?

Posted: 4/18/2010 7:00:54 AM EST

Quoted:
If you want to load in volume, batches of 500 or 1k, buy extra primer tubes and make a primer tube holder.

+1 - You will want some extra primer tubes so you can really rock and roll.

jonblack

Posted: 4/18/2010 7:21:20 AM EST

Quoted:

Quoted:
Don't forget the zero buxs locator button mod

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n237/DVCER/IMGP0025.jpg

OK, I'll bite. What's the purpose of the tabs? Handles?

Yeah, during load development you will be removing casings from the shellplate, the tabs keep the buttons from rolling around on the bench and make good handles too.

Posted: 4/18/2010 9:35:42 AM EST

Quoted:

Quoted:
Don't forget the zero buxs locator button mod

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n237/DVCER/IMGP0025.jpg

OK, I'll bite. What's the purpose of the tabs? Handles?

Yeah, during load development you will be removing casings from the shellplate, the tabs keep the buttons from rolling around on the bench and make good handles too.

Newbie question, sorry.

Can you please elaborate on everything you mentioned in the quoted text?

ETA- I listed my order in the OP I think, but yes, I ordered the (high ass dollar) roller handle and the strong mount.

Posted: 4/18/2010 10:04:12 AM EST

Those tabs under the locator buttons are a milk jug cut up, just a convenience thing. During your first several times you use your press,
you will be removing cases often from the powder and seating locations to check charges and seating. The brass locator buttons let you easily do so. The milk jug tabs just make it easier for me to get my bear paws in there.
You will be very happy with your new press. Welcome to the BLUEworld

Posted: 4/18/2010 3:06:13 PM EST

Quoted:
Those tabs under the locator buttons are a milk jug cut up, just a convenience thing. During your first several times you use your press,
you will be removing cases often from the powder and seating locations to check charges and seating. The brass locator buttons let you easily do so. The milk jug tabs just make it easier for me to get my bear paws in there.
You will be very happy with your new press. Welcome to the BLUEworld

Excellent. Thanks for the tips. I am sure I will be needing all the tips/advice I can get.

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Priming cases with the Dillon 550

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