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How was the bore described in the ad? Can you get a refund? I would be pretty pissed off if this wasn't mentioned.
You could try Patch Out and let it sit overnight. It might take a few applications to get it to clean up. However, judging by the photos, it doesn't look very promising. |
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How was the bore described in the ad? Can you get a refund? I would be pretty pissed off if this wasn't mentioned. You could try Patch Out and let it sit overnight. It might take a few applications to get it to clean up. However, judging by the photos, it doesn't look very promising. View Quote No mention in ad - but I don't want to turn this into a feedback forum thread. I will keep repeating my process and see, but there's a lot of damage that isn't going away - that's for sure. |
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I helped a guy clean an old rifle that had been fired with corrosive ammo and not cleaned. It was crusty and I went at it with liquid wrench and a bore brush. I ended up finding a pit on the breach where in just one tiny spot, it was rusted clean through. Inspect the outside of the barrel carefully after cleaning the bore.
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Plug the barrel, dump Kroil into it, let it sit for a day or two, dump the Kroil into a container to use in the bore again.
Run chore boy through barrel over and over again, dump Kroil back in, and repeat as often as necessary. |
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That appears to be pitted VERY badly. Won't know for sure until it's clean though...
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Drill motor, cleaning rod, steel wool. Make it hum. Plug barrel, fill with penetrating oil, let sit. Repeat.
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And, if it wasn't screwed up before, this will surely do the job! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Drill motor, cleaning rod, steel wool. Make it hum. Plug barrel, fill with penetrating oil, let sit. Repeat. And, if it wasn't screwed up before, this will surely do the job! For sure! Dont do that OP! |
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Keep at it with the foaming bore cleaner. When it gets to the point that you aren't afraid of a bore obstruction, take it out and shoot it. Clean it again while it's still hot.
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Mine was so corroded the first case froze in the chamber. After pounding the bolt open, I went to work with all the usual suspects. Hoppe's (powder AND copper) solvents, gun oil, penetrating oil, penetrating oil on a bronze brush in a drill, polishing compound on a shotgun mop in a drill all failed to clear the chamber up. I got some super aggressive copper solvent (Can't remember what it was and i used it all so i can't check the container) I got ti broken loose some with some wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around a bronze brush (45 ACP) and oiled the devil out of it. That muddy looking crap that you have kept coming out of mine for almost the whole time. Never got the foamy copper solvent to stop turning blue, but it shoots with no shrapnel.
After the exercise I found a thread on a mosin enthusiast site on an electrical cleaning technique using some solution, rubber washers, and a steel rod in the liquid to electrolize the crud off. I bought the parts and never did the job. |
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Also, that is a fake PU sniper. I would ask for a refund if I were you, that is neglect.
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Seriously bring it by my house and let me take a look. I have this week off.
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Seriously bring it by my house and let me take a look. I have this week off. View Quote Hey "Dirty Kenny!" I've got the next two days off as well - I'm going to do my best - if I can't fix it, you sure can. I saw what you did with my George of the Jungle carbine. I have sort of been off since Oct 1st... well, not getting paid anyway... I still have to report to work for a f/u amount of hours and put up with all kinds of crap, but I continue to be on "Essential non-paid status." Yay Shutdown! |
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If it is that bad then you might want to try bore electrolysis. It is messy and a bit of a pain to set up but it will do a lot better job then a bore brush and penetrating oil. Or a foaming bore cleaner would be a good option.
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If it is that bad then you might want to try bore electrolysis. It is messy and a bit of a pain to set up but it will do a lot better job then a bore brush and penetrating oil. Or a foaming bore cleaner would be a good option. View Quote That's actually pretty cool. This will happen on my days off. |
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You're being a better Sport about this than I would be, if I were in your shoes. That rifle would've gone back to its neglectful owner, and he would've refunded all of my money.
I guess it always pays to find out the condition of a rifle's bore prior to purchase, especially a mil-surp which used corrosive ammo. I am curious how your bore electrolysis project goes though, so please keep us updated. |
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Return it. You are in the driver's seat in that regard. Heck it even looks like the scope has rust on it.
Even if you get the bore "clean" it will never shoot the way a decent bore would and be a bitch to keep clean from here on out what with the pitting. I've bought mil-surps with light pitting/dark bores before and they shot fine but I would have run away from the one you got. |
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It probably doesn't matter with this particular rifle, but is there any reason you're cleaning from the muzzle instead of the breech?
I've de-rusted some pretty nasty blackpowder bores by plugging them, filling the bore with Evapo-Rust, and letting it sit overnight, then brushing and repeating as needed. Can't do much about the pits, but it does kill the rust. Unlike Naval Jelly, it won't corrode the steel. Don't give up on the foaming bore cleaner yet: some milsurps of my acquaintance have required an entire can, a couple of bore brushes and 3 weeks or more. Fill bore, let sit overnight, repeat, brush out every 3rd day. Eventually they all come clean, and usually shoot better than you'd think, especially if you touch up the crown. |
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I had an Egyptian Hakim that my brother took out shooting when I was away in the Army Came home to shoot it and it wouldn't chamber a round and all types of crude came out of the chamber and barrel when removing the live round I knew what he did even though he didn't admit to it I had some GI rifle bore cleaner and soaked and scrubbed the chamber and barrel. Shot the Hakim with 10 rds to heat the barrel up, and hit it again with the bore cleaner. Repeated this process. I just keep the barrel cleaned and lubed and Keep my brother the hell away from my milsurp rifles and corrosive ammo
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Brake cleaner + bore brush + hot water = my method.
I still don't understand why folks use the swabs. The swabs don't work. You need a brush! Use the swabs to oil the barrel when you're all finished....but to clean it, no way! Usually I will skip the brake cleaner and just used regular dish soap if it really isn't too dirty. I haven't touched the Hoppes solvent in a LONG time. I was just reading somewhere else that transmission fluid is a good gun oil alternative, even better than synthetic motor oil, since motor oil is more sticky. And we all know that transmission fluid is already a detergent. |
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It probably doesn't matter with this particular rifle, but is there any reason you're cleaning from the muzzle instead of the breech? I've de-rusted some pretty nasty blackpowder bores by plugging them, filling the bore with Evapo-Rust, and letting it sit overnight, then brushing and repeating as needed. Can't do much about the pits, but it does kill the rust. Unlike Naval Jelly, it won't corrode the steel. Don't give up on the foaming bore cleaner yet: some milsurps of my acquaintance have required an entire can, a couple of bore brushes and 3 weeks or more. Fill bore, let sit overnight, repeat, brush out every 3rd day. Eventually they all come clean, and usually shoot better than you'd think, especially if you touch up the crown. View Quote I'm just in scrubbing mode on this one man. All my other stuff I clean chamber to muzzle. I'm going to keep up with the foaming bore cleaner like you said. I'm in no hurry. Seller has logged in, but has must have me on disregard. - but that is for a different forum. I'll probably chalk it up as lesson learned - nothing purchased without picture of bore from now on. |
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Quoted: I'll probably chalk it up as lesson learned - nothing purchased without picture of bore from now on. View Quote |
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I had an Egyptian Hakim that my brother took out shooting when I was away in the Army Came home to shoot it and it wouldn't chamber a round and all types of crude came out of the chamber and barrel when removing the live round I knew what he did even though he didn't admit to it I had some GI rifle bore cleaner and soaked and scrubbed the chamber and barrel. Shot the Hakim with 10 rds to heat the barrel up, and hit it again with the bore cleaner. Repeated this process. I just keep the barrel cleaned and lubed and Keep my brother the hell away from my milsurp rifles and corrosive ammo View Quote Ah, your brother is nicer than me. I sent mine off w/ my new to me Jap rifle to shoot & some old 6.5 Norma. Only it was a 7.7 rifle. He tells me it went "Bloop!", the bullet keyholed & the case split. OP, I picked up a .22" LR FIE single action once that had visible lead chunks in the bore. Plugged the bbl w/ an eraser, & let Hoppes #9 sit in it overnight. It came out decently. |
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Return it. You are in the driver's seat in that regard. Heck it even looks like the scope has rust on it. Even if you get the bore "clean" it will never shoot the way a decent bore would and be a bitch to keep clean from here on out what with the pitting. I've bought mil-surps with light pitting/dark bores before and they shot fine but I would have run away from the one you got. View Quote OP - Kroil, JB Bore Paste, and a box of .30 cal brass brushes are your friends here. I might even try one of the stainless brushes, its not like you are going to make it worse. With that said, I'm with 1srelluc. Send it back. The whole point of a fake sniper is to have a fun shooter, and from the looks of that bore, you are not going to have much fun. Getting it to shoot will likely be an exercise in frustration. You guys know the stuff I have done to get these old girls to shoot, and even I think that bore is toast. If you keep it, you might just want to look into a replacement barrel. Matt |
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OP - Kroil, JB Bore Paste, and a box of .30 cal brass brushes are your friends here. I might even try one of the stainless brushes, its not like you are going to make it worse. With that said, I'm with 1srelluc. Send it back. The whole point of a fake sniper is to have a fun shooter, and from the looks of that bore, you are not going to have much fun. Getting it to shoot will likely be an exercise in frustration. You guys know the stuff I have done to get these old girls to shoot, and even I think that bore is toast. If you keep it, you might just want to look into a replacement barrel. Matt View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Return it. You are in the driver's seat in that regard. Heck it even looks like the scope has rust on it. Even if you get the bore "clean" it will never shoot the way a decent bore would and be a bitch to keep clean from here on out what with the pitting. I've bought mil-surps with light pitting/dark bores before and they shot fine but I would have run away from the one you got. OP - Kroil, JB Bore Paste, and a box of .30 cal brass brushes are your friends here. I might even try one of the stainless brushes, its not like you are going to make it worse. With that said, I'm with 1srelluc. Send it back. The whole point of a fake sniper is to have a fun shooter, and from the looks of that bore, you are not going to have much fun. Getting it to shoot will likely be an exercise in frustration. You guys know the stuff I have done to get these old girls to shoot, and even I think that bore is toast. If you keep it, you might just want to look into a replacement barrel. Matt I'd just transfer the sniper parts over to another 91/30... Or is it not that simple? |
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I think it is, but I'm no expert on snipers or most other things. Mosin bbls are cheap, I bought two actions w/ carbine bbls for $15 each @ Tulsa a couple years back, sold 'em both on for the same in Ft Worth before I left. I'm down to only 4 Mosins from 7 : )
You can always use the action as a donor for a machinegun bbl build. |
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Moving the sniper parts means drilling and tapping another action, and the 6x0.75mm tap that you need is a pain to get.
Rebarreling saves the action. 91/30 barrels can be had pretty cheap. Matt |
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Moving fake sniper parts to another rifle? Rebarreling a fake PU sniper? Madness! How about shooting the thing and see how it does? Or better yet, buy a real PU sniper. They are only 600 bucks right now for the real deal.
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As long as it shoots within a 6" circle it'll kill anything that would ever require to bekilled.
My take on things that go "boom"
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Moving the sniper parts means drilling and tapping another action, and the 6x0.75mm tap that you need is a pain to get. Rebarreling saves the action. 91/30 barrels can be had pretty cheap. Matt View Quote Fair enough... that makes complete sense. How hard is it to change a Mosin barrel? Are they threaded like a Mauser or pinned in like some SKS barrels? I've had Mausers completely apart, but never took the barrel off a Mosin before... |
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Fair enough... that makes complete sense. How hard is it to change a Mosin barrel? Are they threaded like a Mauser or pinned in like some SKS barrels? I've had Mausers completely apart, but never took the barrel off a Mosin before... View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Moving the sniper parts means drilling and tapping another action, and the 6x0.75mm tap that you need is a pain to get. Rebarreling saves the action. 91/30 barrels can be had pretty cheap. Matt Fair enough... that makes complete sense. How hard is it to change a Mosin barrel? Are they threaded like a Mauser or pinned in like some SKS barrels? I've had Mausers completely apart, but never took the barrel off a Mosin before... Not going to re-barrel this. I'm working on re-barreling a M91 Fin. - that is worth it. A fake P.U. sniper I want to shoot instead of taking my real one out every time - probably just going to try to make the best of the barrel it has. Hence... how can I clean it up? Thanks for all the great ideas though. Also - some Mosins take 500+ ft/lbs of torque to remove a barrel - it's a job, that's for sure.. |
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I'd clean the barrel up as best as I can and see if it'll "shoot clean".
I've had pretty good luck with that, in the past. |
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In my limited experience in CONSIDERING rebarelling milsurps rifles, barrels are more expensive than guns.
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Nice job OP!
You should probably slug your bore to find out what size bullet you need. 0.310", 0.312", or bigger... Why were you on a 72 hour lock? Matt |
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That is another story... http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m9oe44ByHh1qbu7fuo1_500.gif I have about 10 projects going at the same time... I really need to sort the mess out... but believe it or not, it's an organized mess. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Nice job OP! You should probably slug your bore to find out what size bullet you need. 0.310", 0.312", or bigger... Why were you on a 72 hour lock? Matt That is another story... http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m9oe44ByHh1qbu7fuo1_500.gif Quoted:
Your workbench looks worse than mine. I have about 10 projects going at the same time... I really need to sort the mess out... but believe it or not, it's an organized mess. Why not place the flag in the flag box and that takes care of one project? |
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I hear you. It's an old WWI 48 Star Burial flag - it's been folded all nice - just hasn't gone any further. It's got huge metal rings on it - makes it quite bulky. I was going to hang it - but I don't have any wall space big enough.
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WOW, that looks fantastic! So, if you kept on shooting it versus doing the electrolysis process, would the outcome have been different? Would shooting it in the condition that it was have made things worse?
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You should probably slug your bore to find out what size bullet you need. 0.310", 0.312", or bigger... View Quote That bore looks amazing by comparison. I second slugging the bore, Link, a good bullet to bore match up will make a big difference in accuracy. Or given your lack of time just take it out and shoot it, and if it groups bad then slug it. |
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No kidding.
When I bought my first M91/30 at age 18 I didn't even check the barrel for cosmoline before firing it Lucky, I guess....
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Well if you are nothing else you are persistent.
Send the seller a bill for what a Smith would have charged you to do the same work. |
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Wow, the seller is a rat bastard if he didn't disclose the bore condition when it was that far gone. A little frosty or a couple SMALL pits I can forgive see to forgive. A sewer pipe is unforgivable.
Really you bought a stock and bits, a bolt, and the sniper mount. The barreled action is pretty much junk even though you brought it up to only "inferior". Good on you for your efforts. Seriously I'd want to know who the dick bag seller is so I never have to deal with him. Do the board a favor! |
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Wow, the seller is a rat bastard if he didn't disclose the bore condition when it was that far gone. A little frosty or a couple SMALL pits I can forgive see to forgive. A sewer pipe is unforgivable. Really you bought a stock and bits, a bolt, and the sniper mount. The barreled action is pretty much junk even though you brought it up to only "inferior". Good on you for your efforts. Seriously I'd want to know who the dick bag seller is so I never have to deal with him. Do the board a favor! View Quote THIS IMO there is no excuse to mistreat a rifle this way and not disclose it to the seller. I hate to know how many hours it took for you to get it looking like it does. That must be factored. |
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