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Posted: 7/17/2008 11:25:07 PM EDT
I recently bought a GI fiberglass stock for my M-14 . What is the best kind of paint that I can spray it with that will be a hard finish and last ?
Link Posted: 7/18/2008 9:22:53 AM EDT
[#1]
Duracoat
Link Posted: 7/18/2008 11:38:08 AM EDT
[#2]
Brownells Alumahyde II works well.
Link Posted: 7/18/2008 1:50:05 PM EDT
[#3]
I don't know about the expensive stuff, but I think Rustoleum actually works a lot better than Krylon Fusion.
Link Posted: 7/18/2008 3:23:26 PM EDT
[#4]
Just ordered some . Did you use the TCE solvent on the stock to clean it first ?
Link Posted: 7/18/2008 5:15:57 PM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:
Brownells Alumahyde II works well.


I like Alumhyde II also.  Have done a few stocks (AR15 and M1A) with it, and holds up great for me.  I need to apply it in summer time when the temps are high enough.  I'll be doing a M14 soon for a new SOCOM.  Thinking about Coyote Tan this time.
Link Posted: 7/18/2008 7:09:48 PM EDT
[#6]
I"ve painted fiberglass stocks with Alumahyde II several times. I always wipe the stock with acetone, let it dry, then spray it.
The hotter it is, the better the paint job and paint cure.
Link Posted: 7/18/2008 9:45:09 PM EDT
[#7]
I used Rustoleum Textured for Plastics, from Wally World...$5 and it worked just fine.  Only problem was in my spraying technique; I had a couple small blobs form in one spot.  Finish-wise it's held up pretty well, no signs of cracking or peeling, although it has worn off inside of the magwell where the mag rubs against the stock.  Worst-case scenario, you apply another coat.
Link Posted: 7/19/2008 7:09:47 AM EDT
[#8]
Krylon.  I know it's not the best, but I did it anyways.


Link Posted: 7/20/2008 7:44:23 AM EDT
[#9]
I painted mine lastweek with rattle can paint from Lowes..      I added a few coats of Clear Matte to help protect the colors.

I spent a little more time on this paint job than I have other in the past, but none of my other paintings (usually just a solid color) really showed much wear.


http://gkasper.smugmug.com/photos/332298163_7Hr6L-XL.jpg

http://gkasper.smugmug.com/photos/332297893_tnc3P-XL.jpg

http://gkasper.smugmug.com/photos/332297981_ucStF-XL.jpg

http://gkasper.smugmug.com/photos/332602992_N26vh-XL.jpg

Link Posted: 7/20/2008 12:44:20 PM EDT
[#10]
I painted a couple with pick-up bed liner. I like the pebbled finish.
It adds a little texture without being abrasive. It's also very tough and wear resistant.
Link Posted: 7/21/2008 5:42:56 AM EDT
[#11]
Here is what I did with my factory black fiberglass stock from SA.  
Link Posted: 7/21/2008 9:59:59 AM EDT
[#12]
I just finished mine...




Link Posted: 7/21/2008 11:00:19 AM EDT
[#13]

Quoted:
I painted mine lastweek with rattle can paint from Lowes..      I added a few coats of Clear Matte to help protect the colors.

I spent a little more time on this paint job than I have other in the past, but none of my other paintings (usually just a solid color) really showed much wear.


gkasper.smugmug.com/photos/332298163_7Hr6L-XL.jpg

gkasper.smugmug.com/photos/332297893_tnc3P-XL.jpg

gkasper.smugmug.com/photos/332297981_ucStF-XL.jpg

gkasper.smugmug.com/photos/332602992_N26vh-XL.jpg




Now that is the best camo job ( to my way of thinking) I have seen in recent memory. A nice big pattern to really break the outline. Kind of desert McMillan pattern.

Super job.

I was just about to paint one with Allumahyde II.

GK9292000 I want to try your pattern with a slightly different color scheme. Can you explain your process and what you used to mask or stencil the secondary colors.

Thanks in advance.


JR
Link Posted: 7/26/2008 12:52:23 PM EDT
[#14]
My son used Rustoleum Camo colors to do this for me.


Link Posted: 7/26/2008 12:58:30 PM EDT
[#15]
That's damn near artistic dude.
Link Posted: 7/27/2008 3:14:47 PM EDT
[#16]

Quoted:
That's damn near artistic dude.


Yup, gun porn!  All laid out on an old "satiny" poncho liner like that...
Link Posted: 7/28/2008 10:21:48 PM EDT
[#17]
Some of you guys have way to time on your hands
Link Posted: 7/30/2008 12:45:56 PM EDT
[#18]
I've posted this before, but this one only took around 3 hours or so on a weekend, I painted the scope to match later on, will need to take some new pics of it, and the shotgun I did as well

Link Posted: 7/30/2008 9:06:01 PM EDT
[#19]
height=8
Quoted:
height=8
Quoted:
I painted mine lastweek with rattle can paint from Lowes..      I added a few coats of Clear Matte

to help protect the colors.

I spent a little more time on this paint job than I have other in the past, but none of my other

paintings (usually just a solid color) really showed much wear.


gkasper.smugmug.com/photos/332298163_7

Hr6L-XL.jpg


gkasper.smugmug.com/photos/332297893_t

nc3P-XL.jpg


gkasper.smugmug.com/photos/332297981_u

cStF-XL.jpg


gkasper.smugmug.com/photos/332602992_N

26vh-XL.jpg





Now that is the best camo job ( to my way of thinking) I have seen in recent memory. A nice big

pattern to really break the outline. Kind of desert McMillan pattern.

Super job.

I was just about to paint one with Allumahyde II.

GK9292000 I want to try your pattern with a slightly different color scheme. Can you explain your

process and what you used to mask or stencil the secondary colors.

Thanks in advance.


JR




Thanks for the compliments!



I'm sure there is an easier way to do it, but here's how I did it.

1.  after cleaning the stock, I painted the entire thing tan.  I used some textured tan color from

my neighborhood Lowes,

    1b. after that coat dried I shot it again, I was painting over a black stock, so it took 2 coats to

    cover it well.

2.  I taped the entire thing with some blue painters tape that I had left over from when I did some

painting around the house.   I taped the barrel cover to the stock like it would be on the gun.

3.  With a Sharpie marker, I found a picture on the internet of a camo pattern I liked and tried my

best to draw it on.   I drew on both the black and green sections, and just shaded them in with the

marker so I could visualize what I was doing.

4. Once I had a pattern that I liked, I cut out the sections that I wanted to paint green with an

Exacto knife.

5. sprayed on 2 coats of green.

6. Once that dried I peeled off the remaining tape to see how it looked, pics below

7. I then taped the whole thing up again, and drew the black back on..  
here's where I had a bit of trouble/confusion,  I wanted the black to partially cover the tan and

butt up against the green, but with the blue painters tape I was using I couldn't see through the

tape to line up the edges, so I had to just guess.  I got pretty close, and nobody would know the

difference if I didn't say anything, but every project like this has some flaw in it that only

you'll notice, this was mine.

8.  cut out the sections to be painted black,

9.  two coats of black.

10. remove the tape, admire your work!

11. I went back with some clear matte paint in an attempt to keep it from wearing to fast, we'll see

how it lasts.





Here are the pics I used as inspiration for the pattern, you can tell by the 1st one that I really

liked that pattern.


http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/7051/gap1lrgcu3.jpg
http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/1973/gapstockeu1.jpg
http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/4185/308axa8.jpg
Link Posted: 8/4/2008 9:50:49 AM EDT
[#20]
GK9292000, Thanks for taking the time to write that down.

It sounds like not being able to see through the tape is a big problem.

I am going to try to find some clear mask like medical "barrier film" or see if there is a tranparent auto body mask that can be adapted.

Nice work.


JR

Link Posted: 8/5/2008 7:41:56 AM EDT
[#21]
I think the normal tan colored masking tape would work fine, the blue stuff I used was just what I had laying around.. probably not what I would've used if I went to the store to buy the materials.
Link Posted: 8/5/2008 4:39:54 PM EDT
[#22]
What do you guys use to clean the stock?

Do you use a primer to make the paint stick?  Does it stick well or does it start rubbing off pretty quickly?

Enamel or acrylic paint?  
Link Posted: 8/5/2008 8:55:07 PM EDT
[#23]
Alumahyde II Desert Tan with swaths of FDE and OD.


Still life:


Even stiller life:
Link Posted: 8/27/2008 2:28:48 PM EDT
[#24]
I've used Krylon, but found it was damaged by oil/solvents.
The Alumahyde II has held up wonderfully well and seems to resist about anything.
My experience has been with AR furniture.
BTW, you want a week's drying time, undisturbed, with the Alumahyde II.  I didn't give the Krylon that much time, and it might benefit from a better cure.
I did a junk stock with Krylon, and it's hanging in the garage.  I need to abuse it with some solvent and see waht happens.
Moon
Link Posted: 8/27/2008 5:04:19 PM EDT
[#25]
I used Krylon on all my stocks and never ever had a problem, do 3 or 4 coats of each color if your using multiple ones, then when it came time to do a clearcoat, put down 8 coats, NEVER had a problem ever, never blemishes or gets affected by anything, just looks good all the time.
Link Posted: 9/6/2008 2:41:43 AM EDT
[#26]
I used cheap O.D. in the rattle can, enamel I think. so far its held up really,really well and its easy to touch up..
The best part is if you get tired of it all you have to do is keep it wet with D.O.T.3 brake fluid for a couple hours and the paint wipes right off with no ill effects on the fiberglass and no sanding either.
Link Posted: 9/10/2008 1:09:55 PM EDT
[#27]

Shot at 2008-09-10

Link Posted: 9/10/2008 1:31:47 PM EDT
[#28]

Quoted:
img135.imageshack.us/img135/4432/m14hotrod02xh5.png
Shot at 2008-09-10



Do you carry that in a scabbard on your chopper?

I really like that paint scheme! It looks great!
Link Posted: 9/10/2008 6:39:45 PM EDT
[#29]

Quoted:
img135.imageshack.us/img135/4432/m14hotrod02xh5.png
Shot at 2008-09-10



+1 Matt!!
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