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1/22/2020 12:12:56 PM
Posted: 6/9/2008 5:44:30 AM EST
I just bought a parkerizing kit from Brownells. Do any of you have any experience and hints/tricks with home-parkerizing. Have your home jobs turned out good? I think I'll practice on my spare slide and little parts before drowning my 1911 in chemicals. Thoughts?
Link Posted: 6/9/2008 6:24:42 AM EST
TAG becasue I want to refinish my M1 Carbine.
Link Posted: 6/9/2008 6:42:54 AM EST
I've played with parking (assembled my own kit w/ necessary chemicals), and there are three things that I think are important for it to come out nice.

1) Bead blasting the parts to be parked helps for uniform finish
2) degrease everything and don't handle items w/ bare hands before dropping in tank (use gloves)
3) Assuming that your kit requires water, use distilled or other purified water, not tap water. The purity of the solution is key to good results.

Link Posted: 6/9/2008 10:03:32 AM EST
I followed this guys tutorial and had really good results.

Pay real good attention to the blasting. When you think you have it done, do it again. The more uniform you make the blasted finish, the better the park will look.

Make sure that you suspend your parts in the solution. If you just lay them in there, whatever contacts the bottom of the tank will not park as well and leave you with a bad finish. And also make sure to preheat your parts in boiling hot water before you put them in. This will help make sure the hot park solution doesnt drop below optimum temperature.

If you are looking for a cheap set up for the burner, go to Wal mart and buy the 2 burner camping stove that runs off small propane tanks....you should be able to find one for about $20.
Link Posted: 6/9/2008 10:41:32 AM EST
Link Posted: 6/9/2008 1:13:56 PM EST

Originally Posted By cjk1:
I've played with parking (assembled my own kit w/ necessary chemicals), and there are three things that I think are important for it to come out nice.

1) Bead blasting the parts to be parked helps for uniform finish
2) degrease everything and don't handle items w/ bare hands before dropping in tank (use gloves)
3) Assuming that your kit requires water, use distilled or other purified water, not tap water. The purity of the solution is key to good results.



+1 +2 +3, the better you do in prep work, the better the final result will be. And definitely use distilled water, tap water comes out uneven/spotty/streaky.
Link Posted: 6/9/2008 1:17:24 PM EST
[Last Edit: 6/9/2008 1:26:28 PM EST by Lester_Burnham]

Originally Posted By Ky_Bob:
TAG becasue I want to refinish my M1 Carbine.


The cheapest and easiest way you could experiment would be with a pint of manganese phospate from Lauer (makes about 1 gallon when you add the water): www.lauerweaponry.com/index.cfm?Category=335&Subcat=Manganese%20Phosphate%20Solution

When I first started, I ordered the Lauer stuff, and experimented with small parts in some Pyrex pans that I got at Goodwill for $2. Basically with the Lauer stuff, all you do is your prep work, heat the solution just short of boiling, put your parts in for 15-20 minutes, rinse, oil.

I'm not much of a photographer but here is a receiver that I did using Lauer:



Link Posted: 6/9/2008 3:21:01 PM EST
Thanks guys! I definitely planned on using distilled water.

I purchased a pretty decent blasting cabinet at Harbor Freight Tools. It is complete with gloves, blasting gun w/ tips, and a light. Fully complete for $118 I also grabbed 25lbs of #80 GLASS BEADS to blast with. I tested the beads on a spare slide and you're right.......the fine beads don't mess up the roll marks.

I plan on using that spare slide as a guinea pig before parking my "good" gun. Thanks for the tips,

Ted
Link Posted: 6/9/2008 4:40:53 PM EST

Originally Posted By ViperTed:
Thanks guys! I definitely planned on using distilled water.

I purchased a pretty decent blasting cabinet at Harbor Freight Tools. It is complete with gloves, blasting gun w/ tips, and a light. Fully complete for $118 I also grabbed 25lbs of #80 GLASS BEADS to blast with. I tested the beads on a spare slide and you're right.......the fine beads don't mess up the roll marks.

I plan on using that spare slide as a guinea pig before parking my "good" gun. Thanks for the tips,

Ted


Go for it, the worst that can happen is that you'll have to blast it and try it again. Good luck and post pics when you get done.
Link Posted: 6/9/2008 5:16:33 PM EST

Originally Posted By Lester_Burnham:

Originally Posted By Ky_Bob:
TAG becasue I want to refinish my M1 Carbine.


The cheapest and easiest way you could experiment would be with a pint of manganese phospate from Lauer (makes about 1 gallon when you add the water): www.lauerweaponry.com/index.cfm?Category=335&Subcat=Manganese%20Phosphate%20Solution

When I first started, I ordered the Lauer stuff, and experimented with small parts in some Pyrex pans that I got at Goodwill for $2. Basically with the Lauer stuff, all you do is your prep work, heat the solution just short of boiling, put your parts in for 15-20 minutes, rinse, oil.

I'm not much of a photographer but here is a receiver that I did using Lauer:

i27.tinypic.com/fvfu41.jpg




Thank you!
Link Posted: 7/20/2008 6:10:42 PM EST
[Last Edit: 7/20/2008 6:11:30 PM EST by LA_357SIG]
I bought my maganeese parking solution from Lauer (LCW) too.

Aside from the instructions, the only things I recommend is to make your solution and after rinse with distilled water. I rinsed my 1st attempt with tap water after I took it out of the blasting cabinet and it rusted very quickly . Now I just blow it off w/ compressed air and then with brake cleaner before going in the park solution.

I also found that the 180 grit Aluminox 1) took twice as long and 2) more of a duller finish than 80 grit. (which I just added 10 lbs of 80 grit to 5 lbs of 180 grit).

for the after rinse I just filled a small bucket with distilled water and dunked it in and out for about 1 min and straight into the post treatment solution from LCW. I used to dry the parts in the sun before the oil bath, but shaking them off and tossing them in the solution worked just the same.


Here's the 2nd attempt.
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