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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 7/27/2002 3:42:38 PM EST
[Last Edit: 7/27/2002 4:23:03 PM EST by ura_baddog]
I picked up my spent brass at the range and unbeknown to me a couple of commie steel wolf cases make it in to my bucket.

I was done making a batch of rounds for the Blackwater IPSIC match tomorrow and was checking them and I notice the color of the case and flipped it over and damm if it wasn't a wolf case.

I check it and it is in spec's.

I really enjoy my Sig and have never liked the idea of steel cases in it. So I wouldn't shoot it anyway.

I thought I would put it out there. Has anybody ever reloaded any of this ?

Link Posted: 7/27/2002 3:48:39 PM EST
I have never reloaded it,but it shoots fine in my Beretta 8000 and Glock 19. Why wouldnt you shoot it in your Sig? Its not the most accurate ammo,but its great for blastin.
Link Posted: 7/27/2002 4:22:34 PM EST
I love my Sig P220 and I dont like the idea of steel cases causing wear and tear. 18 years old and its been a sweet shooter so I am staying with the status quo .



Link Posted: 7/27/2002 4:55:28 PM EST

Originally Posted By ura_baddog:
I love my Sig P220 and I dont like the idea of steel cases causing wear and tear. 18 years old and its been a sweet shooter so I am staying with the status quo .


ohh i see why now. 18 years? thats a good amount of time. what parts have you had to replace so far?
Link Posted: 7/27/2002 4:58:01 PM EST

Originally Posted By M4_Aiming_at_U:
I have never reloaded it,but it shoots fine in my Beretta 8000 and Glock 19. Why wouldnt you shoot it in your Sig? Its not the most accurate ammo,but its great for blastin.



The reason you dont reload steel is cause the case is not very ductile at all and firing it once will stress it that the next time you rezise/fire you may have case head separation. I have no clue how anyone can reload Wolf with other cases becuase its berdan primed. Same reason why people dont reload blazers. (also because its aluminum cased)
Link Posted: 7/27/2002 5:06:23 PM EST
[Last Edit: 7/27/2002 5:08:23 PM EST by anothergene]
Never did Wolf but I have reloaded (a long time ago) GI steel cases routinely. Merely tossed them out with the brass shells as fatigue warranted. Seemed to be very soft steel, probably softer than nickel plated brass? [:\] A bingo magnet pulled through the brass would cull out the steel empties, me thinks.
Link Posted: 7/27/2002 5:09:53 PM EST
Sig hu?

give it a try!
yea have a guy standing by with a med kit and a camera. i want picks of the new German grenade!

Link Posted: 7/27/2002 5:47:13 PM EST
I reloaded one round of Wolf 45 once. Now one round ain't much of a test but it shot fine. Wolf 45 is BOXER primed BTW.
Link Posted: 7/27/2002 5:49:51 PM EST
Wolf 45 is not berdan but boxer primed. I'm sure their 9mm and 40 S&W are also boxer.
Link Posted: 7/28/2002 3:39:08 AM EST
Wolf stuff in U.S. calibers is Boxer primed.

I've reloaded it in .45 and .40 caliber with no problems.

I don't think you'll hurt anything if a few of these find their way into your practice ammo.

Years ago my father reloaded some WWII era U.S. made steel cases & he insists they worked fine in a 1911 but would bind a revolver. Apparently the steel doesn't spring back enough to allow a cylinder to rotate easily. I haven't verified this with Wolf though.

By the way I've reloaded Blazer cases (.45 & 9mm). It can be done. You'll have to deprime by hand with an ice pick because of the 2 flash holes. Use a punch to break out the primer pocket center post.

None of this (reloading Wolf or Blazer) is worth the effort, but I just thought the info could be handy some day.

Link Posted: 7/29/2002 3:01:47 AM EST
Seemed like some of you already knew it would shoot and fly straight as any other reload.

I brought both rounds with me to the Blackwater IPSIC match and showed them to a club member who is known's reloading a better them me.

He looked at it, asked me what was in it and then to his car got a beater 1911 filled a clip with the two wolf in the second and third position. He pumped off the whole clip they cycled fine and all grouped well with the others, no fliers.

On a side note I came in 2nd in Limited 10 and 1st in the unclassified division. Not bad for a 18 year old gun.

To answer the question on what I have had to replace on the gun The list is short. The barrel still looks fair 90% of the ammo is reloaded 230gr lead ball.

Replaced 1 extractor about 1000rd ago that's it for replacement part and nothing has been done to it besides cleaning and I think if I cleaned it a little better the extractor would not have broken

Link Posted: 7/29/2002 4:10:07 AM EST
I doubt that firing a couple steel cased rounds is going to bother your faithful Sig. The 45ACP is a low-pressure round, so it should stress it that much. I think that your Sig will probably last longer than you and your children. If you happen to crack the frame after many, many rounds, send it to Sig and they will make you a new frame for a nominal fee.
Link Posted: 7/29/2002 6:05:31 AM EST
I think if you accidentally reloaded a couple of Wolf rounds, you probably need to slow down your reloading pace a little bit.
Link Posted: 7/29/2002 6:17:51 AM EST

Originally Posted By ken_mays:
I think if you accidentally reloaded a couple of Wolf rounds, you probably need to slow down your reloading pace a little bit.



My rounds cronograph average 10 round within 15fps the last time I checked (begining of the month). The Wolf cases felt the same and feed the same and even spec'ed out good. I QA/QC all rounds after they are made and spotted these by color only.
I seem to be doing ok. Thank you for the suggestion and will keep it in mind
Link Posted: 7/29/2002 6:27:15 AM EST

Originally Posted By ura_baddog:

Originally Posted By ken_mays:
I think if you accidentally reloaded a couple of Wolf rounds, you probably need to slow down your reloading pace a little bit.



My rounds cronograph average 10 round within 15fps the last time I checked (begining of the month). The Wolf cases felt the same and feed the same and even spec'ed out good. I QA/QC all rounds after they are made and spotted these by color only.
I seem to be doing ok. Thank you for the suggestion and will keep it in mind



actually i think he meant YOU need to slow down. not the velocity of the round.
Link Posted: 7/29/2002 6:47:35 AM EST

Originally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer:

Originally Posted By ura_baddog:

Originally Posted By ken_mays:
I think if you accidentally reloaded a couple of Wolf rounds, you probably need to slow down your reloading pace a little bit.



My rounds chronograph average 10 round within 15fps the last time I checked (beginning of the month). The Wolf cases felt the same and feed the same and even spec'ed out good. I QA/QC all rounds after they are made and spotted these by color only.
I seem to be doing ok. Thank you for the suggestion and will keep it in mind



actually i think he meant YOU need to slow down. not the velocity of the round.



Thanks for pointing that out my post was not clear. I did understand ken_mays comment.


I only used that as an example of the time I take making the rounds. Rounds thrown together in a hurry generally do not have that type of consistency.

Link Posted: 7/29/2002 6:59:27 AM EST
You should have no problem but don't make a habit out of it. I was told they are not to friendly to the dies.
Link Posted: 7/29/2002 8:18:50 AM EST
Other than wear to the dies (offset somewhat by lubrication, and carbide dies) the problem I have encountered with steel casings is corrosion.. The resizing/decapping scratches the coating, and exposes the steel. I've had to toss a bunch of old "EC" .45 casings, and some steel .30USC casings because of this..

Meplat-
Link Posted: 7/29/2002 11:00:25 AM EST
Fella I shoot IPSC with uses wolf cases along with his other brass in 45. Some of his empties look well used.

The 45 cases are boxer, and the 9mm and 40 are Berdan.

I took a bunch of 223 cases and cleaned, sized, trimmed and primed them for wifes cousin as a gag gift, told him to load them 1 time for his bolt gun, and toss, as the necks seem to split on the second fire.
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