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Posted: 5/31/2010 2:00:57 PM EDT
I bought a new LAR-8 standard model. I have shot FN and Federal and DAG 7.62 x 51 in it with no problems.  Only the DAG shoots well enough to suit me but I am not going to shoot nickel/copper bullets in it long term.  So I load Lapua Brass sized in FL RCBS dies with BR2 primers, 44 grains of Varget, 168 Sierra Match King to O.A.L of 2.800.  Out of the first 6 rounds the bolt fails to completely close on 3 of them and its all I can do to get the loaded round out of the chamber, the others chamber and fire and blow the primers out. OK i'm thinking I need SB dies and different brass since this is a mild load.  I buy Small Base RCBS dies load 10 rounds with the same load in FC brass, I cycle each round through the rifle before I leave for the range. life is good. they chamber and extract no problem.  I fire the same 10 rounds at the range, blow 7 primers out of the cases, 2 rounds don't want to chamber fully.
    I know it's my loads but what is wrong with them, I can tell you I have ejector marks on the fired brass.
Link Posted: 5/31/2010 2:50:03 PM EDT
[#1]
You say near the end that you "blow 7 primers out of the cases"? Do you mean this literally or you pierced the primers? I don't think SB dies are the cure or were needed to begin with. In my opinion in all but tight match chambers there is almost no need for them. How do the fired cases look? Sooty from end to end ?maybe
Link Posted: 5/31/2010 2:51:35 PM EDT
[#2]
According Quickload you're a little too hot for the lapua.  Back it down to 42 grains of Varget.  Check the case volume, ie. weigh empty with primer, then weigh one full of water.  Volume should be 52 to 53 grains of H2O.  Take some careful measurements of the the 1X fired lapua (shoulder to case head surface).   Use the FL RCBS or SB RCBS to size to .003 under the 1X fired dim. (shoulder to case head surface).
Link Posted: 5/31/2010 3:04:41 PM EDT
[#3]
here are pics

Link Posted: 5/31/2010 3:05:47 PM EDT
[#4]
I posted some pics, primers are completely blown out.
Link Posted: 5/31/2010 3:16:11 PM EDT
[#5]
Looks way to hot and dare I say the rifle is headspaced poorly?

Cases show ejector marks, opened up primer pockets caused by belting of the case.

That, and if they are not chambering the cases probably has not been sized properly. You should have a case gauge.

Link Posted: 5/31/2010 3:20:48 PM EDT
[#6]
I ran the small base sizing die all the way down till it touched the shell holder.
Link Posted: 5/31/2010 4:20:42 PM EDT
[#7]
That doesn't mean you are sizing correctly.

You need a case gauge sir.



Pics of 223, 308 works the same. This is what your case probably looks like. End of case above end of case gauge. Chambering problem here.



This is what you want. End of case below end of gauge, above the .002 cut.
Link Posted: 5/31/2010 4:26:24 PM EDT
[#8]
I have never seen one of those, I will do a search for one, thanks
Link Posted: 5/31/2010 5:39:42 PM EDT
[#9]
The one in the pic is a Dillon, the best IMHO. Link.
Link Posted: 5/31/2010 5:41:09 PM EDT
[#10]
Remember that most semi auto 308s cannot handle the same loads that a 308 bolt gun can.

I get some pressure signs with 44 grains of Varget in FC brass with 168s in my AR10 and definately get serious pressure signs in LC brass.

Ejector marks are common in 308 AR style rifles with mild loads so you can't always go by those.

Blown primers are definately an issue though.
Link Posted: 6/1/2010 1:37:40 AM EDT
[#11]
Quoted:
The one in the pic is a Dillon, the best IMHO. Link.

The case gage is a great thing to have. If you only do 100 or 200 cases at a time, things can change on your press & dies from one day to the next. The case gage lets you know right now if something is wrong in your sizing.
Link Posted: 6/1/2010 5:31:17 AM EDT
[#12]
You say you're at 2.800" and that should be fine and safe for OAL.

Does it feel like your ball expander is sticking/dragging on the case neck when you withdraw the case from the sizing die?  if so you may be pulling your shoulders back out beyond spec.  You can check for this by sizing some cases with the expander removed and chamber check the unreloaded brass by hand in your rifle with a stripped bolt.

ETA- At any rate you need to work a load up from a lower charge.  44 is max in the .308 sectiion in my hornady manual and over max in my sierra.  in Hornady's 7.62 nato section max is 42 and change. It sounds like you picked the max charge and ran with it (and got what you got!)

Link Posted: 6/1/2010 5:47:48 AM EDT
[#13]
+1on a case gauge.  
Not having your bolt close on half your ammo should be a big clue.

Until your case gauge arrives...pull your firing pin out and chamber a couple of your rounds.  When you eject them check to see if:
a) they are still 2.800" long, and
b) do they have strong rifling marks on the projectiles?

55_grain
Link Posted: 6/1/2010 5:50:25 AM EDT
[#14]
Quoted:
Looks way to hot and dare I say the rifle is headspaced poorly?

Cases show ejector marks, opened up primer pockets caused by belting of the case.

That, and if they are not chambering the cases probably has not been sized properly. You should have a case gauge.




This.   Have you fired factory loads out of this rifle? If so how does the brass look compared to your reloads.

Link Posted: 6/1/2010 1:03:19 PM EDT
[#15]
Quoted:
+1on a case gauge.  
Not having your bolt close on half your ammo should be a big clue.

Until your case gauge arrives...pull your firing pin out and chamber a couple of your rounds.  When you eject them check to see if:
a) they are still 2.800" long, and
b) do they have strong rifling marks on the projectiles?

55_grain


I doubt he is hitting rifling with loads at mag length.

He may also mistake feed ramp marks that occur when ejecting a loaded round with rifling marks.

The real thing to do without a case gauge is to remove the ejector and extractor from the bolt and hand cycle some cases to see if they stick or not.

Make sure you have a rod or long dowel to knock it out though until you find the right amount of shoulder bump.
Link Posted: 6/1/2010 1:31:58 PM EDT
[#16]
Quoted:
Remember that most semi auto 308s cannot handle the same loads that a 308 bolt gun can.

I get some pressure signs with 44 grains of Varget in FC brass with 168s in my AR10 and definately get serious pressure signs in LC brass.

Ejector marks are common in 308 AR style rifles with mild loads so you can't always go by those.

Blown primers are definately an issue though.


Same.  

I would say you probably have both short headspace and too much pressure.  

Get a case gauge or an RCBS precision mic so you know whether you are setting the shoulder back enough.  

Go DOWN on your loads.

44 gr. Varget over 168 is an ok bolt gun load, but I get pressure sign too with that load in my AR10 with Win Brass.  I can't go over 43.5 with LC brass.

Link Posted: 6/1/2010 1:46:02 PM EDT
[#17]
Reducing the load to 42 grains of Varget seems to have eliminated the problem.
Link Posted: 6/1/2010 1:46:33 PM EDT
[#18]
Reducing the load to 42 grains of Varget seems to have eliminated the problem.
Link Posted: 6/2/2010 1:41:51 AM EDT
[#19]
Did you change anything else that helped with the chambering? You had mentioned that the bolt would not close all the way with some rounds you had loaded.
Link Posted: 6/3/2010 5:44:55 PM EDT
[#20]
That was with the full length dies mostly, I ran my small base dies harder against the shell holder and that stopped the chambering problem.  Got my case gauge today and it saids case are GTG.
Link Posted: 6/4/2010 5:27:24 AM EDT
[#21]
On more then on occasion I have needed to remove material from the top of the shell holder. This allowed the die to move ever so slightly further down the case and get the sizing right.
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