I got into reloading a couple years ago and loaded some 9mm and .45acp.  I recently bought a used glock 20 (10mm) and I'm ready to work up some test rounds.  I'm starting with longshot power and I'm seeing some crazy differences in load amounts.  Currently, I have 3 projectiles.  180 grain plated, 180 grain lead, and 180 grain XTP JHP.  Hodgdon online load data references a 180 GR. SIE JHC.  I'm not even sure what that is...  But, it states starting loads at 8.5 grains and maximum loads at 9.5 grains.  I bought the lead 180 grain projectiles from a fellow reloader (very experienced) and he said I should start at 5.6 grains of longshot and work up to 6.1 grains.  Man, that's a big difference in powder amounts.

Anybody help me with these specific loads?  I understand I need a reloading manual, but don't know which brand, edition, etc...  Any recommendations would be appreciated.

I'll check my Lyman 49th when I get home from work. What pages would you like photos of? 9mm/45auto/10mm?

I actually just collect loads for cartridges I use a lot of.
8-1/2 x 11 pages and the ole' 3-ring binder.

Add tabs at commonly used pages and move them to the front.
You can always read paper when the computer is dead.

That would be awesome.  That's all I'm loading currently.

Yep, I learned a bit about the variables loading the 9mm and .45acp.  I'm just really trying to sort out the safe place to start.

PM me your email I'll send them over today.

A fellow should have a copy of the Lyman 50th on their reloading bench!
It has jacketed and hard cast lead data.

Remember
That plated bullets, hitek coated bullets, and hard cast bullets all use the same data.

For the 10mm I recommend getting the latest Hornady book. I have found other books don't go above 40 s&w speed. That's why you got the 10mm, to go fast right?
Don't bother shooting uncoated lead bullets, there is just no need for it. You can run coated bullets as fast as you want in a 10mm.

Used 10mm huh. Did the guy reload? If so I wouldn't want it. Too many people try to turn the 10mm into a bazooka.

I use Load Books for everything I load as they have tons of data from a bunch of sources in them.

I still have hardback manuals on my shelf for the times I load a caliber I don't have a Load Book for.

Powder manufacturer websites are great resources as well and often have updated data that isn't in the manuals.

I've been doing this reloading thing since 1985. There are a few good manuals out there but my favorite is what Hornady prints.

The amount of data given for each powder and bullet weight is very likely unbeaten.

If you want to focus on cast bullets then go with one of the Lyman offerings. But for general use the Hornady manual is hard to beat.

Motor

+1

I always recommend using the manual published by the company making your bullets. They have more experience than anyone else when loading their products.

When you really want to blow up watermellons and such, DO NOT START WITH MAX load listed, go -10% WARNING big smiles.  Keep and eye for bulges and such, use good or New starline brass and Mag Primers.

Not sure of the history of it, but it appears to be in excellent shape.  Looks to be used very little and never carried.  The guy was not a reloader.  I paid $360, so I feel like I found a deal.

I've found Hornady data to be very mild, especially in .223. YMMV.

I like lots of data prior to doing test loads.

I have the Lee, Hornady, Sierra, Lyman and Nosler load books. I also use the Hodgdon and Accurate websites load data.

I take the data provided in each book/website and put it on a spreadsheet by powder and bullet making it easier to compare and then decide where I will start and what ladders I will load.

Like the OP I have noticed some recipes where one source has data where the max is lower than the start load from another source.

I always start low and work my way up.