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Posted: 12/30/2002 9:43:54 AM EST
Need something cheap, and don't want to walk and setup after each hit. Looking for something about 8 inch diameter square or round. Tough enough for 308 rifle.
Link Posted: 12/30/2002 9:50:37 AM EST
Make your own like I do. Get a cheap toilet seat, some big nails, a wooden pallet, and a screen door spring loaded hinge. Nail the seat to the pallet and attach the hinge to the lid so it springs up when knocked down. Use a plastic seat since the wood ones splinter but the plastic just deforms to let the bullets through. Put cardboard over the lid and attach your paper target if desired. Does that help?
Link Posted: 12/30/2002 10:47:34 AM EST
[Last Edit: 12/30/2002 10:50:13 AM EST by CKing]
How many hits will it take before it comes apart? Does it jump around pretty good with 223 hits? Do the holes sorta close up after a hit? Will have to check the house toilets seats might be good excuse to buy some new ones?

Looks like it will be way cheaper than those plastic 8 inch plates.
Link Posted: 12/30/2002 11:24:04 AM EST
Nieghborhood cats are always a popular choice as "reactive" targets.
Link Posted: 12/30/2002 11:32:57 AM EST
What about a old wheel from a car. when it is hit the metal it will do go ding. I have been thinking about using a couple. My brother is a mechanic and throws a ton away. I am just worried about ricochets. I wonder if a .308 or .223 will just go into it.
Link Posted: 12/30/2002 11:43:27 AM EST
Link Posted: 12/30/2002 11:48:47 AM EST

Originally Posted By CKing:
How many hits will it take before it comes apart?


A lot. Especially if you put thin plywood over it. That way when the lid starts to fall to pieces, you can change out the plywood. Since the plywood is anchored at the bottom where you don't shoot, you can just keep on replacing it for a good long time.

Does it jump around pretty good with 223 hits?

Sometimes yes, sometimes no, but you always know when it hits, especially with the plywood since it is stiffer than the lid's plastic.


Do the holes sorta close up after a hit?


Yep, on the plastic lid.

Will have to check the house toilets seats might be good excuse to buy some new ones?

Remember don't use wooden seats.

Looks like it will be way cheaper than those plastic 8 inch plates.
Yep.
Link Posted: 12/30/2002 12:05:24 PM EST
Link Posted: 12/30/2002 12:18:33 PM EST
We just hang 12" X 12" armor plates off of real estate signs.

We use wire coat handers which wear out every couple of shooting sessions but are free to replace.

Folding realestate sign holders are only $12 bucks at the sign store. Those last a long time, even longer if you only shoot the gong!
Link Posted: 12/30/2002 12:18:40 PM EST
I've shot car rims with .223 FMJ, it just goes right through (at glancing angles it may ricochet though).
Link Posted: 12/30/2002 1:04:42 PM EST
A 1/4" steel plate and a couple of rubber bungees are what we use at the range I work at.
Link Posted: 12/30/2002 4:08:22 PM EST

Best I've seen so far is treads from a dozer or trackhoe. .308, 30-06 ball won't even crater it @75 yrds. Call around the salvage yards.
Link Posted: 12/30/2002 4:52:41 PM EST

Originally Posted By Waldo:

Best I've seen so far is treads from a dozer or trackhoe. .308, 30-06 ball won't even crater it @75 yrds. Call around the salvage yards.



No foolin. I blasted some of that at a range of 175 yards. 30-06 AP just make a black mark. Same with 50BMG ball. Not even a crater. The blade was angled back a little so it wasn't 90 degrees to the shooter. I think I even tried 50 AP and it only made a small, very small crater.
Link Posted: 12/30/2002 4:57:50 PM EST
I bought a "Beast" rifle gong for $100 with stand years ago. Money very well spent. The stand got shot to pieces and I've replaced it with one made of 3/4" rebar that's working out fine so far.

When I was aboard ship I would get plates cut from the ship by the welders adding new systems. They were more then happy to let me cart off 40 or 50 pound plates.
Link Posted: 12/30/2002 5:43:11 PM EST
Since you live in Florida, are Nutrinas out of the question ? They would seem to be as reactive as prairie dogs. If Nutrinas are not available, you might try tie plates that are used to hold rail road rails to the rail road ties. They vary in size and thickness and are harder than the hubs of hell. The larger, thicker plates hold up well under .308 and .30-06 rounds. You can usually find the tie plates along the railroad tracks where repairs have been made. Hope this helps.

Shootist
Link Posted: 12/30/2002 6:00:19 PM EST
eggs
Link Posted: 12/30/2002 8:07:57 PM EST
20-once plastic soda bottles filled with water. bring 'em out with you when you're done shooting.
Link Posted: 12/31/2002 2:55:15 PM EST
Well how good do you shoot?

In the past we've tried spent 22 LR shells - spent shotgun hulls - take a 2x4 cut a thin Kerf and stand Necco wafers up (bio-degradable) - frozen milk jugs (make sure you rinse before filling & freezing) - ballons (helps if you have a compressor) - retired conveyor belting (very tough) - steel (need a welder/grinder to get craters smooth again) - pop cans (fill w/ water & very reactive) - ziplock baggies w/ flour (puff puff)

Oh and saw this on the history channel (I want one) R/C car with ballons filled w/ helium - you send it out w/ two ballons but you are only allowed to hit one of them the other (hostage) bobs in front as you buddy makes the R/C car bounce all over the place.
Link Posted: 12/31/2002 3:14:39 PM EST
I am particular to golfballs for precision shooting (I had one take 4 hits from a .308 at >75yds). Other than that, you might want to try Speedwell.
Link Posted: 1/2/2003 10:05:09 AM EST
$70 for AR500 armor plate auto reset.

http://www.mgmtargets.com/autopopr.htm
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