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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 1/24/2006 9:21:17 AM EDT
I mentioned it in another post but I thought Id start a new one....
First off, Yes, thank you, I know, Im a dumbass for not seeing it before I bought it.

Someone put a bead of what looks like brazing to cover the front post and the granade /bayo lug, making it impossible to get to the gas assembly. Whay? I'll never know. the result is a single shot garand. It must be charged after every shot.

Im going to go to the dealer today and ask him to fix it or trade it. But just for the sake of conversation, what could be done to fix it? Why the hell would someone do it?

shitty pic but hopefully it will help explain a little.

Link Posted: 1/24/2006 9:52:23 AM EDT
If there is a bit of weld or braze bridging the gas cylinder and gas cylinder lock (can't tell from the crappy pic) just remove foreign metal with a bit of filing/dremeling etc...


To remove the cylinder...

---Unscrew the GAS CYLINDER LOCK SCREW

---Unscrew the GAS CYLINDER LOCK

---Slide the GAS CYLINDER forward


Link Posted: 1/24/2006 10:27:20 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/24/2006 10:30:15 AM EDT by Ralph]
Ditto the above...once you get the gas cylinder off, A new cylinder can be found rather easily, I'd also check and make sure the gas port in the barrel is also clear, you can look down the barrel and see it, It's the hole in the barrel at 6'oclock about 2 inches from muzzel. I 'd also check the O.D. of the gas piston on the end of the op rod..it should be .525 minium to .526-7 max. New gas cylinders can be had from Barb King.. www.bbkingsales.com I think for about $60.00 these are NIW gas cylinders
Link Posted: 1/24/2006 10:52:27 AM EDT
I think the gas lock screw is welded as well, because I cant get it uncrewed for anything, its stuck good.

My father in law showed me how to strip the front end on his garand his came unscrewed quite easily, but mine wont budge, even with a large flathead in the cross.
Link Posted: 1/24/2006 11:05:12 AM EDT
The gov did soemthing simmilar to drill rifles and VFW rifles so they could not be fired will live ammo. Of couse those rifles are gov property and possession could be a crime. Might want to check into that.

Link Posted: 1/24/2006 11:06:36 AM EDT
Hey David,

I think you'd see a bead if the gas lock screw was welded to the lock. More than likely it is stuck, silver soldered, or lock-tited. If your dealer won't help you out, I'd apply some heat to the area and see if that frees it up. Kroil or penetrating oil might be worth a shot.

Strange situation. Gotta wonder if it's intentional or bubba'd

HTH

Blitz
Link Posted: 1/24/2006 11:10:58 AM EDT

Originally Posted By colt100:
The gov did soemthing simmilar to drill rifles and VFW rifles so they could not be fired will live ammo. Of couse those rifles are gov property and possession could be a crime. Might want to check into that.




well it passed the nics check so I think thats unlikely. But I wouldnt be too suprised if they did it for some stupid reason before surplusing them, although its seems like we'd have heard of it before.
Link Posted: 1/24/2006 11:23:20 AM EDT

Originally Posted By davidp14:

Originally Posted By colt100:
The gov did soemthing simmilar to drill rifles and VFW rifles so they could not be fired will live ammo. Of couse those rifles are gov property and possession could be a crime. Might want to check into that.




well it passed the nics check so I think thats unlikely. But I wouldnt be too suprised if they did it for some stupid reason before surplusing them, although its seems like we'd have heard of it before.



a NICS has nothing to do with the firearm, just the purchaser.

all NICS asks about the firearm is if it is a longun, pistol, or both
Link Posted: 1/24/2006 2:40:02 PM EDT
I took it back to the dealer. He said he'll fix it. It'll be a few days before I get it back though.
Link Posted: 1/24/2006 7:11:01 PM EDT
If it is a US mil drill rifle with welded gas cylinder, the barrel is also most likely welded to the recvr or has had one welded.

I would get my money back and look for a better M1 if I were U ...
Link Posted: 1/28/2006 5:30:56 AM EDT
david,

Strip ALL the wood off the rifle and look for any weld spots where the barrel joins the receiver. If you find any, demand your money back. Life is too short to risk a receiver with the heat treat damaged by a weld.

Also.... check the drawing revision number on the right front leg of the receiver against the serial number manufacture date. If it matches, you are probably OK. If it DON'T match, then you have a receiver that at one time was scrapped by the military and then two halves welded back together. Ditto..... refund and run time.

Best regards,
Swampy

Garands forever
Link Posted: 2/1/2006 4:48:29 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/2/2006 7:56:26 AM EDT by davidp14]
OK its fixed. The guy broke the weld at the gas lock and I replaced the lock. I took it out and it still didnt work. So I took it apart and my father in law insantly realized that the plug was missing the valve that switches it from grenade launching to semi. He had a spare and now she runs like a top.

There are NO other welds anywhere on the gun and although I still dont know why someone did it, Im confindent it had nothing to do with the military.

I also checked the reweld info at fulton-armory.com. I checked the numbers and looked for the signs mentioned in the article, as far as I can tell this is NOT a reweld.
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