I had no idea we had this section here.... But I'm glad we do

Last week I ordered a Yugo SKS from J&G Sales .

I was wondering if anyone here has/had one and cared to comment on it.

Did I buy a pos or is this a good rifle?

Anything I should be aware of or look out for?


Thanks,

Gene


Edited the title. GS

You need to get out a little bit more Gene.

I don't know about J&G's SKSs but sometimes the gas system on these Yugos haven't been properly cleaned after firing corrosive ammo. So they sometimes leak and don't function properly. You'll just have to find out when you get it to the range.

But there's a guy on surplusrifles.com that makes and sells oversized stainless pistons and stuff to get them running again.

Don't let this get you down though. I've got a Chinese SKS and it's one of my favorite blasters. Just wish I could put the bayonet on it.

Many of these rifles are practically unissued and in amazing condition. Some are pretty worn out with 'sewer pipe' bores. Thankfully, most tend to be closer to the better end of the spectrum.

They're excellent rifles. The fit, finish, and machining quality is very nice. Pretty accurate, too.

Considering your buying an essentially brand new, 100% reliable, reasonably accurate, semi-automatic rifle with a milled steel receiver and beechwood stock in 7.62x39 for about $150....

And a High Point carbine will run about $180....

Yeah, it's a friggen steal!!!

Well that's good to hear.

I figured for $159.00 for an "excellent to like new condition" rifle, I couldn't go wrong.

I received my application for a C&R FFL. I just need to get all the forms filled out and mailed off now.  

Gene

Heck, even some of the sewer pipes shoot pretty darn well.  I think you did just fine!

Did you get a 59 or 59/66?  About the only difference is the 59/66 has the grenade launcher which also leads to the gas issues.  

I have 2 Yugo 59/66 sks's; one shoots just fine, the other won't eject the fired case.  The case is actually gets stuck in the chamber and I have to use a mallet to "whack" the bolt back to eject the shell.  These are known to have gas issues as mentioned before.  This website has a load of info to the sks; http://sksboards.com/forum/index.php.  Just make sure you clean all the cosmo from the gas assemblies and the gas hole is clear in the barrel into the gas valve.  The most popular gas fix is the "paperclip" fix that is explained on that website.  Also make sure the gas valve is in correct position (one position is for grenade launcher and the other is for semi-auto); and the recoil spring is inserted in the bolt carrier the correct way (squiggly end in the bolt carrier).

If you need a replacement piston or the oversized cnc-machined gas valve, let me know as I have each just laying around that I would let go for cheap.  Neither took care of my ejecting problem.  I have now polished the chamber with JBs Bore Paste which is another recommended solution, but haven't had a chance to test it to see if that cured the problem.

I've got a 59/66 that was in amazing shape when I got it. Light storage dings in the stock, 98% of the bluing, and a sharp bright bore. I've never had any issues with it at all. I think I paid $190 for it 4 years ago from the local fun shop. Came with correct sling (but may be repro), sight tool, and 40 stripper clips. I'm extremely happy with it. If its in the condition they advertised you will be with yours too.

Quoted: Did you get a 59 or 59/66?  About the only difference is the 59/66 has the grenade launcher which also leads to the gas issues.   I have 2 Yugo 59/66 sks's; one shoots just fine, the other won't eject the fired case.  The case is actually gets stuck in the chamber and I have to use a mallet to "whack" the bolt back to eject the shell.  These are known to have gas issues as mentioned before.  This website has a load of info to the sks; http://sksboards.com/forum/index.php.  Just make sure you clean all the cosmo from the gas assemblies and the gas hole is clear in the barrel into the gas valve.  The most popular gas fix is the "paperclip" fix that is explained on that website.  Also make sure the gas valve is in correct position (one position is for grenade launcher and the other is for semi-auto); and the recoil spring is inserted in the bolt carrier the correct way (squiggly end in the bolt carrier). If you need a replacement piston or the oversized cnc-machined gas valve, let me know as I have each just laying around that I would let go for cheap.  Neither took care of my ejecting problem.  I have now polished the chamber with JBs Bore Paste which is another recommended solution, but haven't had a chance to test it to see if that cured the problem.

Doug,
 Hopefully I won't need to buy those parts from you but if I do, I'll contact you.

I'm going with their advertisement of "good to excellent condition", so I'll see.

Believe it's the 59/66 model, I'll have to go look at the website.

Thanks,

Gene

I got a couple Yugo 59s almost a couple years ago... they're good rifles, reliable as heck.  I 'gave' one to a buddy for Christmas, even though it's still in my closet (he moved to DC... no guns for him!).   We were hitting 8" steel plates at 200 yards offhand with great frequency.  I'd say we were both hitting them probably 5-8 shots out of 10.  That's not bad accuracy for such a cheap rifle!  

AFAIK, the Yugos do NOT have a chrome lined bore, so they will be susceptible to corrosion.  I've only fired Wolf ammo in mine, and the work just fine.  Might be a bit dirty, but it cleans up easily.  

Overall, I think the Yugo SKS is a great deal for a semiauto battle rifle.  They're built like tanks and will take a lickin' and keep on tickin'!

Well my rifle arrived yesterday, I picked it up today.

Below are some pics.

I guess I'm happy with my purchase. This is my first "old" rifle, so I didn't really know what to expect.

It's covered in oil or something (or is this what cosmoline looks like?)

I was happy all the serial numbers match. I take it this is normal on these?

Aside from the front hood, the rest of the rifle appears to be in good shape. I hope to be able to shoot it sometime next week.



Off to clean this thing.

Gene

Go here for info on how to fix that front sight hood.  http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2005/sksfrontsightrepair/index.asp

I'm sure the "oil" you refer to is in fact the "brown menace", cosmoline. These SKSs have a reputation of being engorged with the crap.

DO NOT fire the gun without first cleaning the stuff out. You could easily cause a KB with a barrel that is probably completely full of cosmoline. In addition it's probably seized your firing pin in the bolt as well. My friend cleaned his out with a parts cleaning tank and it still didn't get it out of the bolt, and the gun wouldn't fire. It would barely nick the primers.

It's not that hard to clean out, but it does take some time and a LOT of rags or paper towels.

I took mine apart and put all the small parts in an old pot and boiled them in water on the stove. I took the bolt completely apart, the bolt carrier, springs, top cover, magazine and tigger parts, gas valve, every thing that could fit in the pot went in. The cosmoline, like oil, is less dense than the water and when "boiled out" will float to the top. The boiling water drys almost instantly and only an occasional scrubbing was needed to get the thick stuff out.

When I took the parts out, I wiped them down with a rag soaked in Breakfree and set them aside.

I used gun scrubber and LOTS of paper towels, rags, Q-tips, toothbrushes, and toothpicks on the barreled receiver.

The stock got the heat gun treatment. Heat and wipe, heat and wipe. It's not absolutely beautiful and grease free!

Quoted: I figured for $159.00 for an "excellent to like new condition" rifle, I couldn't go wrong.

That doesn't quite look like "excellent to like new."  It looks more like very good to maybe excellent.  I got a like new condition for $169.00 online 2 weeks ago.  The stock was almost perfect (98-99%), 98% bluing, matching SN, and no bent or damaged parts.

If it was me, I would feel like a little ripped off by the description.  I don't see how they could even classify it as excellent, on the low end none-the-less, with a bent front sight hood.  Your rifle looks like it will function fine though!

Welcome to "Cosmoline World".

Here's a write-up on cleaning one just like yours.

Cosmoline Removal

Have fun!

Not to be redundant regarding cosmolene removal, but it can't be stressed enough that the firing pin moves freely in it's channel before firing as there is no return spring, which could lead to slam firing if the pin sticks.

Quoted: Welcome to "Cosmoline World". Here's a write-up on cleaning one just like yours. Cosmoline Removal Have fun!

Sir, that tutorial was very helpful. THANK YOU!

As you can see she's all clean now.

I'll put some stain on tonight.

You mentioned "Tman rubbed it down with a satin finish". What did he use? Do you have a "re-finishing" tutorial someplace?

I was going to use a minwax clear coat, but I see alot of people have used oil as the finish coat.



I had to search around for the disassembly instructions and found them HERE

Any chance you could link that to your refinishing cosmoline removal post?

Thanks again,

Gene

edited to add a question.

edit again. Nevermind, I just found Tman's response in another refinishing thread you started.

Thanks for the excellent information.

Gene

love my 59/66 the bayo makes a really good monopod fer  them pesky fuzzies when messin around

I got the stain on, looks great. I also got one coat of clear on. Should be dry by this evening and ready for some 0000 steel wool.

This is almost as much fun as building an AR.

I actually enjoyed the cosmoline removal because I had to touch every single piece, now I know what they are, where they go and how to take it apart.

Are AK's similar to this?

More pics after a few coats of clear.

Thanks again for all the tips,

Gene

IMO, AKs are simpler and easier to dissasemble.

Quoted: IMO, AKs are simpler and easier to dissasemble.

+1.  First time I took the dust cover off, it was "What the fuck, where's the rest of it??"

Quoted: Quoted: IMO, AKs are simpler and easier to dissasemble. +1.  First time I took the dust cover off, it was "What the fuck, where's the rest of it??"

Well...yea...it's an AK...that was kinda the point, make it cave-man simple.

Besides, it's not like you have to totally dissasemble it all the time anyways. I mean, basic stripping on an SKS for cleaning is just pop the rear cover off and pull the bolt/carrier (or just lock it to the rear if you're lazy) and pull the gas tube off.

Here she is with 3 coats of clear.

Hoping to go shoot this weekend.



I really enjoyed this project, and now I'm ready to order another one (or two).

So what's next?

Right now I'm kinda limited to J&G Sales as they already have my dealer's FFL and they DO ship to Guam. So to make things easy on me, I'll stick with them.

Which of the following would be a good one to go with?
      Mosin-Nagant 91/30                   $74.95  
      Mosin-Nagant 91/30 Laminated   $99.95  
      Mosin-Nagant M-38                    $99.95  
      Mosin-Nagant M-44                     $79.95
      Swiss K-31 Schmidt Rubin rifle.   $129.95  
      Yugoslavian 24/47 Mauser rifle with Bayonet, 8mm.   $109.95  
      Yugoslavian 24/47 Mauser rifle, 8mm.        $119.95

I know, I know, "get both" right?  which ones? Or does it not make any difference as long as it works?


ETA: Or maybe this one: Enfield #2A Ishapore 308  

Thanks,

Gene

You sure you got all the gunk out of the firing pin channel in the bolt?

If you knock the unholy hell out of the retaining pin, it'll come out and the FP will drop out.  Then you can give it a good going over inside there.

If not, the pin can stick in the full-forward position and your first SKS shoot will really be more exciting than you could have even hoped for  Or it could stick to the rear and cause light (if any) primer strikes.  

I don't do it every time I clean, but when you're de-gunking the rifle the first time, it's good to be thorough.

Quoted: You sure you got all the gunk out of the firing pin channel in the bolt? If you knock the unholy hell out of the retaining pin, it'll come out and the FP will drop out.  Then you can give it a good going over inside there. If not, the pin can stick in the full-forward position and your first SKS shoot will really be more exciting than you could have even hoped for  Or it could stick to the rear and cause light (if any) primer strikes.   I don't do it every time I clean, but when you're de-gunking the rifle the first time, it's good to be thorough.

Yes I did do that. It took a few whacks with a mallet, but the retainer pin came out, and I was happy to see the inside was nice and clean.

During the cleaning I had let the whole assembly soak in mineral spirits over night and then used the air comp to blow it all out.

Thanks for the advice though.

Have many people done the upgrade where a new firing pin with a spring is installed? Is it worth doing?


Gene

That looks sharp Gene! Congrats!

Which of the following would be a good one to go with? Mosin-Nagant 91/30 $74.95 Mosin-Nagant 91/30 Laminated $99.95 Mosin-Nagant M-38 $99.95 Mosin-Nagant M-44 $79.95 Swiss K-31 Schmidt Rubin rifle. $129.95 Yugoslavian 24/47 Mauser rifle with Bayonet, 8mm. $109.95 Yugoslavian 24/47 Mauser rifle, 8mm. $119.95 I know, I know, "get both" right? which ones? Or does it not make any difference as long as it works? ETA: Or maybe this one: Enfield #2A Ishapore 308

I would get the Swiss K31 and Enfield #2A. There is a limited number of these available and you'll love the fine craftsmanship of the K31. You'll also love the caliber of the Enfield.

After that I would get a MN 91/30 and a MN carbine. Up to you if you want plain or laminated stocks or a bayo on the carbine or not. I've got a couple of 91/30 and a M44. They're a hoot to shoot!

I do need to get a Mauser sometime before they go away.

The SKS is, in my opinion, one of the most underrated rifles out there. They are really very well built rifles that are very reliable. A real bargain.

I bought one from AIM for 119.00 on my C&R license. You can't tell that it's not a brand new rifle.

Now if I only had time to shoot it....

Quoted: Quoted: I figured for $159.00 for an "excellent to like new condition" rifle, I couldn't go wrong. That doesn't quite look like "excellent to like new."  It looks more like very good to maybe excellent.  I got a like new condition for $169.00 online 2 weeks ago.  The stock was almost perfect (98-99%), 98% bluing, matching SN, and no bent or damaged parts. If it was me, I would feel like a little ripped off by the description.  I don't see how they could even classify it as excellent, on the low end none-the-less, with a bent front sight hood.  Your rifle looks like it will function fine though!

-I sent an e-mail and a picture of the bent hood to J&G Sales explaining to them that for the price I paid, I should have received a rifle in better condition.

-They wrote back telling me I could send it back and they would send me a different one.

-I wrote back explaining how I had spent the whole weekend refinishing the rifle and how sending it back is not really an option.
I asked if they could give me some type of store credit for the difference between "good to excellent condition" and the next one down which is "good condition", about a $40.00 difference.

-They wrote back saying that they don't have a store credit program and that if my refinishing job is "standard" then I could still send it back and they would replace it with a better one.

( now I'm starting to get pissed )

-So I just wrote back asking if they would be willing to do a 10% discount on a future purchase.
I told them I'm planning on ordering a Enfield 2A ($179.95) and asked if they could do a 10% discount ($18.00).
I explained how that would be much cheaper than shipping this rifle back, and them shipping another one back to me. (they charged me $40.00 for shipping)


Waiting for a response.


Am I being an ass about this? Should I just drop it and move on?  What do you think?

Thanks,

Gene

Quoted: Am I being an ass about this? Should I just drop it and move on?  What do you think? Gene

Well I wouldn't say you're being an ass, but C&R is kind of a crap shoot.  If it was a cracked stock or rusted very bad I'd consider sending it back, but a small ding in a sight hood of a C&R I don't think comes close to a good reason for me.  I have never heard of a company doing what you're asking so good luck.

If you used any Minwax type products it's not a standard finish and I doubt they would take it back although J&G seem like pretty good folks to deal with in my experience.

Quoted: Quoted: Am I being an ass about this? Should I just drop it and move on?  What do you think? Gene Well I wouldn't say you're being an ass, but C&R is kind of a crap shoot.  If it was a cracked stock or rusted very bad I'd consider sending it back, but a small ding in a sight hood of a C&R I don't think comes close to a good reason for me.  I have never heard of a company doing what you're asking so good luck. If you used any Minwax type products it's not a standard finish and I doubt they would take it back although J&G seem like pretty good folks to deal with in my experience.

Well that's fair enough.
This is my first experience with J&G and with C&R rifles. If they say no, I'll drop the issue.

Thanks for the input,

Gene