I am thinking about buying a Panther Bull Classic, and I would like to install a muzzle brake.  A clean muzzle just looks WRONG, and while I'm putting something on the barrel it may as well reduce recoil.  What are my options?

What recoil??????
 Granted that the Ar-15 makes a lot of noise, But  it has less recoil than a pellet gun.   Forget about putting anything on the barrel, you will just screw up the accuracy of the rifle.

Gotta agree with Dano.  If you can't afford the bucks for something usefull like a supressor (I.E. a preban) then go with a slick.  Don't pretend it's something it's not.

Now that you have time to think.

If your bent on putting something on the barrel, you can get a Ruger 10/22 bull barrel brake.  Your barrel and the Ruger's are about the same.  

Look at: www.brownells.com

Do a search under part #930-122-016

Thank you for your comments.  The reason they put 10/22 brakes on is to increase accuracy, but I doubt I'd find one that didn't decrease accuracy, if it was for an AR.  I'm new to AR's, how much recoil do they actually have?

Quoted: Thank you for your comments.  The reason they put 10/22 brakes on is to increase accuracy, but I doubt I'd find one that didn't decrease accuracy, if it was for an AR.  I'm new to AR's, how much recoil do they actually have?

You've probably already answered your own question.  The little conversation I've had on this subject led me to believe accuracy was/could be a problem.
(I too just don't like to a bare barrel tip so I've done some asking.  I own I think three post-ban type AR's and everything else is pre-ban with flash-suppressors.  Guess the pre-bans with f/s are what's familiar to me.)
There's little felt-recoil from the .223 round fired from an "AR."

You could send it to JP and have them install one of their muzzle brakes on it. Besides reducing recoil(which isn't really necessary on an AR), I like the fact that it will help protect your crown in case the rifle is accidentally dropped muzzle first. This is the main reason I'm going to buy an Armalite M15 instead of a Bushmaster A3 carbine.

Quoted: You could send it to JP and have them install one of their muzzle brakes on it. Besides reducing recoil(which isn't really necessary on an AR), I like the fact that it will help protect your crown in case the rifle is accidentally dropped muzzle first. This is the main reason I'm going to buy an Armalite M15 instead of a Bushmaster A3 carbine.

And also a reason why I 'bought' an ArmaLite M15.

Rainier,

The problem that your going to find on all Threaded post-ban breaks is that after time the fouling will build up in the void between the barrel and brake. This will cause problems in regards to accuracy. Trying to get the fouling out of the blind void is next to impossible with out screwing up the muzzle of the barrel.

Normal, you would just remove the brake and clean the muzzle, but on post-ban rifles, the break is pinned/welded on to the barrel.  On the brake I listed, there is a screw and nut on the bottom that tightens the ID to the complete barrel, not just to a few points like some other brakes.

Anyone have a thought as to accuracy problems - or no problems ??
('Excluding' fowling as a consideration.)

Dano - if you have any accuracy information on your specific suggestion I'd like to know.  Suddenly I'm thinking of curing my own three bare barrels.
For the sake of my viewing-pleasure I'd rather have something out there that at least reminds me of a flash suppressor than nothing at all.

On the other hand I won't give-up accuracy for ornamentation.

The only thing that I can suggest is this.  

I build all of my rifles from pieces, not built parts. A flat top I have(post-ban), standard heavy barrel with brake,  after a few thousand rounds was starting to open up it's group.  I knew the barrel was still good, but the muzzle and void where full of crap.  I tried Q-tips, tooth picks, soaking in CLP, nothing worked.

The thing that saved me was that I had used silver solder to weld the brake.  I heated up the brake and spun it off to clean the void and muzzle.  The only draw back is you have to chase the threads before you can re-solder.  The rifle is back to shooting sub MOA.

As for just putting something on the end to protect the muzzle, Kurt sells fake FS with the front open. On these, it much easier to get to the void and muzzle.

Also, not considering fouling and bullet striking the brake, the real killer of accuracy in regards to brakes are tighten then up too tight.

If your looking for a source for silver solder, check here:
http://www.silversupplies.com/catalog/silver_solder/solder.shtml#paste

Originally Posted By Dano523 The thing that saved me was that I had used silver solder to weld the brake.   ...... the real killer of accuracy in regards to brakes are tighten then up too tight.

Got it and thanks.

Rainier,
Before you do anything to the rifle, shoot it far a while.  I had a bull Panther and it was a tack driver right out of the box. The rifle is a dream from the bench and on stationary targets.

The reason that I sold the rifle was the barrel weight. I found that trying to run down a target(coyote) off hand shooting was a real bitch due to the forward weight.  I built up standard barrel flat top to replace the Panther.
The only reason that I put a brake on the rifle was to keep in from climbing out(upward force) when walking rounds in on the moving target.