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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 2/24/2006 2:58:11 PM EST
[Last Edit: 2/24/2006 4:26:43 PM EST by dkhntr04]

Just wondering if anyone had ever removed/ swapped barrels on their Mini. I'm thinking about getting another barrel and cutting it down to 16" and threading it for an AR style flash suppressor, or at least threading my barrel for a flash suppressor. Just wondering the removal/ replacement procedure and how headspace is set. Thanks
Link Posted: 2/24/2006 5:52:01 PM EST
[Last Edit: 2/24/2006 6:02:41 PM EST by dfariswheel]
This is NOT a "do it at home" type job.
The barrels are TIGHTLY threaded on, and removal REQUIRES a special barrel vise, and a special action wrench.
Gun barrels are NOT just pieces of threaded pipe that can be screwed on or off at will.
Attempting to do it without the right tools WILL destroy the rifle.

In addition, the Mini-14 series barrels must be cut on a lathe to allow the barrel to be indexed so the gas system and front sight are aligned properly.
The gas system barrel block is torqued in place, and attempts at removal without knowing how to properly remove the staked-in bolts will strip the block holes, ruining the assembly.

Last, once the barrel is fitted in place, you have to have a set of head space gages and chambering reamers to set head space.

Bottom line, barrel work on any rifle, and especially on the Mini-14 series is a job for a trained gunsmith with a complete set of expensive tools and gages.

Wanna absolutely RUIN a good rifle? Start trying to do barrel work without the knowledge and tools.

If you want a muzzle device, buy the threading dies and bore alignment rods that are made to thread barrels without having to remove them.
These are a special threading die and an alignment rod that goes down the bore to keep the cutting die aligned and square with the bore.

Member "WJM" on the AK-47 forum rents threading kits to thread barrels.

Link Posted: 2/24/2006 5:57:23 PM EST
Big +1 on dfariswheel. Don't try it yourself. This is NOT a coffee table gun project. Charles the Gunsmith.
Link Posted: 2/24/2006 9:50:02 PM EST
[Last Edit: 2/24/2006 9:55:11 PM EST by dkhntr04]
The information about the special barrel vise and action wench, chamber reamers and etc. was what I was looking for, not the flame assuming that I am unaware of mechanical principles and processes, and the complexity of the task at hand.

Just because I don't toot my own horn about my skills every post doesn't mean I deserve to be cast off as some ignorant fool who has no clue about the complexities of what he is considering. And I assure you, this would not be a half-assed effort as you seem to imply.

I happen to have access to an entire machine shop and have a great deal of knowledge (college trained) and experiance in machining, I have been a teachers assistant in a college manufacturing class, and have built several woodworking power tools from scratch. I have made many a part where .0002" is the tolorance that must be met. I could go on and on about the stuff I have done, and the skills I have but it wouldn't help me learn about the specific procedure and tools required.

If you can manage to get down from your throne and talk to this mere mortal, I would be delighted to learn more about the action wrench and barrel vise. Building a set of those could definately be a fun and challenging project. Also if you have any more information about torque specifications and resetting headspace on a factory fitted barrel, I would greatly appreciate your help.

Thankyou for you time Sir.
Link Posted: 2/25/2006 3:10:34 AM EST
Whoa, partner!!!!

I know that I for one was not trying to preach to the uneducated and ignorant masses.

I am sure that dfariswheel also had no intention of trying to piss anyone off.

That said, I really understand where he is coming from as I get a lot of questions from people that say they are well qualified to do whatever. The nature of the questions, however, proves that they are not as qualified as they may believe.

I suggest you also get off of your throne and try to understand where real GUNSMITHS are coming from.

Link Posted: 2/25/2006 5:27:50 AM EST
[Last Edit: 2/25/2006 5:32:39 AM EST by dkhntr04]
I do understand and respect where you are coming from 1911. I also see and understand the need to know the specific information that is critcal to the operation and do rspect true gunsmiths for their skill and knowledge. I am looking for the nitty gritty details, the things that the real gunsmith would know, that would let me know if this is beyond my capabilities.

I had checked the rifle and the diagrams, I know it is threaded on. I am looking for information on fixturing, torque specifications, what if anything is involved with timing the barrel for proper alignment of sights and galsblock, if one removes the factory fitted barrel if there was a chance that the headspace would change.

I came off a little edgy last night for whatever reason, and for that I apologize.
Link Posted: 2/25/2006 6:53:37 AM EST
Link Posted: 2/25/2006 6:54:34 AM EST
No apology necessary. I would like to help you but dfariswheel rendered a really good explanation. I really could not improve on anything he said. Take care and IM with any questions. Charles.
Link Posted: 2/25/2006 7:26:43 AM EST

Why are you removing the barrel? Is it damaged somehow?

I want to turn it down and tread the end to 1/2-28 on a lathe so I can use AR type muzzle attachments. Turning it on a lathe would provide accurate and concentric threads.
Link Posted: 2/25/2006 7:45:50 AM EST
[Last Edit: 2/25/2006 7:48:45 AM EST by raf]
Link Posted: 2/25/2006 8:00:26 AM EST
Thanks for the advise. I'll probably not pursue this any further since it appears that the information is not out there. Thaks for the replies though.

The modification is not for accuracy, my Mini-30 shoots 1.5 MOA at 100 yards with Russian ammo righ out of the box. Got to love it! I was looking for a flash supressor, and thought it would be both interesting and unique to install an AR muzzle device.

Thanks again.
Link Posted: 2/25/2006 8:10:50 AM EST
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