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Posted: 6/2/2002 12:39:38 PM EDT
Well, I took the plunge and purchased a NIB, full-auto 9MM MAC 11! Of course it will be the end of summer before I see the darn thing. My question is what is good cheap ammo to shoot it? Will the Wolf stuff work ok.

I have a new reloading setup and will eventually get around to reloading it, so, what is good cheap reloadable ammo to use as well?

Any words of wisdom for the care, cleaning and accessorizing I need to know?
Link Posted: 6/2/2002 3:04:38 PM EDT
Wolf runs just fine in M11/9s. In fact, ANYTHING runs fine in them, so just go for whatever is cheapest.

If you reload, make sure the loads are stout enough: Mild loads can sometimes fail to drive the bolt far enough back to catch on the sear when you let off the trigger. The result is that every mag is a full mag dump, even when ya don't want it.

I STRONGLY urge you to consider getting a cheap can for it. The M11/9's open-bolt design, light weight (under 4 pounds) and short length, combined with high ROF, means it's very easy for even experienced Mgunners to shoot their own hands.
Here's what happens: First you need to lock the bolt open BEFORE inserting the mag -- otherwise, your hand slips on the cocking knob before the sear catches the bolt, said bolt will fly forward and start firing. As the gun recoils back and up, the muzzle crosses your cocking hand.
Even if you lock the bolt back before inserting the mag, it's not uncommon for the mag insertion to "jar" the bolt loose, and it's runaway time again.

A can extends the muzzle way out there, so you can't hit your own hand. Also reduces recoil. If you can't do a can right away, either get a longer-barrelled upper or one of those fake cans. It's much cheaper than a trip to the ER.

If you wanna do the cheap route, I just bought a new Coastal can for my M11/9 for $125 (plus $5 shipping and the $200 tax).

While on sears/bolts, a lot of the late-production M11/9s did not have properly heat-treated parts. That means they wear much quicker, and once the sear & bolt wear, you get more runaways. Get some spares, and check for wear -- at least initially, every 500 rounds or so.

Also, because your M11/9 is NIB but was made before 1986, definitely put a new buffer in before ya fire it. All the NIB guns I've seen lately have rotted buffers. A new one is only $5 and will keep your bolt from battering open the welds at the rear of the receiver.

Speaking of which, keep an eye on those welds at first, too. I've seen some open up on NIB guns. If they do, TIG-weld them shut and they're good forever.

If you want to slow down the 1,200 ROF, a trick is to buy a M11/9 semi hammer and hammer pin, and an AR15 hammer spring. Install them in the factory holes in your M11/9. FA M11s normally do not have hammers, but installing a semi hammer adds drag on the bolt and will slow your ROF to 950-1,000 -- way more controllable.

Lots of other accessories out there, and what you buy depends on what ya want to do with your gun. To begin with, a new buffer plus a can (or fake can) will get ya running right and safely.

And ya prolly should clean your M11 every coupla thousand rounds. But they are pretty forgiving and durable. If it stops running and you can't find anything broken, a good cleaning usually fixes it.

Oh, and BTW, M11/9s are technically not MACS -- they were made by Cobray. The snobs and nit-pickers will catch ya on that one.

Have fun!

Link Posted: 6/2/2002 3:21:58 PM EDT
Mac = Bullet Hose.

Enjoy.  Nothing cheaper or better for spraying lead.
Link Posted: 6/2/2002 4:16:54 PM EDT
tony_k thanks for the great info! The short barrel gives me pause as well, a fake can is at the top of my short list, or a new carbine length barrel and have it cut and recrowned to 10" or so.

Another couple of items I want is one of the new RPB uppers with a Weaver rail attached, and the adaper that lets you use an AR15 stock.

I'll try the trick you mentioned for slowing down the rpm, they are really too fast normally.
Link Posted: 6/2/2002 11:22:35 PM EDT
make sure u get plenty of mags youll need em
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