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Posted: 11/19/2008 10:49:42 AM EDT
I do my rifle rounds one at a time, but UPS just delivered my first Lee 1000 progressive loader (40 S&W), and I'm going to assemble it this evening. Thought I should check in here to see if there are any tips or tricks to make the set-up go smoother, or any pitfalls I need to avoid.

The printed instructions are mediocre, as expected. Of significance, there's a baggie with a couple of "toothed" nylon bushings, two screws i would estimate at 8-32x1/4, what appears to be an extra ejector pin, and two flat metal hooks. Nothing in the instructions about these goodies.

Of course, any advice on ways to make the loading go more smoothly would be great, too.

I'm trying to pick up some target bullets for less than $24/100 locally, while i try to find the best deal online. For my mean rounds though, I have 180gr Hornady XTP, once I become proficient with the progressive, of course.
Link Posted: 11/19/2008 12:17:55 PM EDT
Try http://forums.loadmastervideos.com/forums/index.php This is a website setup by Lee enthusiats. They have a forum section on nothing but the Pro 1000. Lots of good info.
Link Posted: 11/19/2008 12:33:14 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 11/19/2008 12:34:58 PM EDT by ma96782]
I use three Lee M1000s.......the Pro 1000 is the updated version.........



1. Mount your press on a sturdy bench.

2. Keep your press clean....free of spilled powder or primer residue....not to mention grit.

3. Lube the moving parts.

4. Now, is also a good time to tighten up loose nuts.

5. Keep the primer tray loaded up w/ primers........don't let the feed trough get half way empty..........gravity helps to keep the primers moving downhill. Re-fill the tray with only 50 primers at a time. Use a small screwdriver to hold back the primers in the magazine when you’re seating the magazine into the trough mouth.

The primers will seat.....as the handle is going up.....shell plate coming down.......you'll have to get to learn, "the feel of it."

6. Keep powder in the hopper..........make sure the powder isn't clumped and "bridging."

7. Keep brass in the magazine tubes........and don’t forget to turn to the next tube, when needed.

8. Bullets go on....one at a time.....have a good supply close by.

9. Use full, smooth and complete strokes. Unless there is a "good reason to".......don't go partial way and change directions......it'll ^%$& things up.

10. If and when you do ^%$& thing up.......remove the problem shells, make sure to check the indexing and primer feed area for a jammed primer. Clean off any powder spills or primer dust. Set the problem shells to the side........work on them "later." Before continuing with production.....try the press w/o shells to check the indexing.

11. After 1000s of rounds.........if you're having indexing problems..........you may need to change out those plastic cams.........change both of them, rather than one at a time.
______________________________________________________

The LEE web sight sells the replacement parts.

www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1217477485.785=/html/catalog/lp1000.html

Click on the "serv. parts" for your caliber of machine.

Ratchet Gear $3 and Hex Ratchet 3 for .50......last time shipping was $4 and delivery was w/in a week via USPS.

Also, you might want to add some "set tension fingers" at 4 for $1, just in case.
______________________________________________________

Don‘t forget.........Safety glasses.......and avoid distractions while re-loading.

Here is a good article on the LEE Pro 1000.........

www.geocities.com/leereloading/leepro1000.htm



HTH.

Aloha, Mark
Link Posted: 11/19/2008 2:03:33 PM EDT
Buy several more of the "toothed" bushings- they wear out fairly quickly and are KEY to auto-indexing.

The biggest thing to remember with the Pro-1000 is to: TAKE YOUR TIME!

When the machine is running smooth, its hard to beat its production rate, but if you try to speed it up, you'll soon be in "OH, SHIT!" land.

Link Posted: 11/19/2008 2:13:50 PM EDT
Originally Posted By FB41:
Buy several more of the "toothed" bushings- they wear out fairly quickly and are KEY to auto-indexing.

The biggest thing to remember with the Pro-1000 is to: TAKE YOUR TIME!

When the machine is running smooth, its hard to beat its production rate, but if you try to speed it up, you'll soon be in "OH, SHIT!" land.



hehe I have been to oh shit land with other machines. Lol not a fun place to be.

Link Posted: 11/19/2008 3:41:35 PM EDT
I use Johnson Spray wax (used for dusting furniture) on the insides of the primer chute. Spray it on and wipe it all off. It makes the primers slide through like greased lightning. I add primers anytime the last primer in the tray moves down into the chute. A single grain of powder on the primer ram can keep a primer from sliding all the way into place, which will crunch a primer if you dont see it. Make sure you keep powder off the shell plate and primer ram. Yes the Lee Auto Disk will leak a few grains, just keep it wiped up. Wash the new primer hopper and disks in warm soapy water (Lee used to recommend Dawn) to keep down static, I also wipe hopper and disks with a dryer fabric softener sheet to keep down static. NEVER FORCE THE HANDLE!!!! If it doesn't feel right, stop and check everything. Everything else I can think of has been covered above.

G
Link Posted: 11/19/2008 3:56:02 PM EDT
Always keep about 50 primers in the tray, more small in your case, start with a full tray of 100. Then after the last primer leaves the tray, it is time to refill. It needs at least 12 large or 15 small in the chute to keep them sliding.

Those extra parts are the frequently worn parts, once you use them, order new ones. They will wear out.

Keep things clean. Learn how to disassemble the ram head, taking it off. There are 2 screws holding the base plate on. Remove those, then remove the case sensor, priming ram, detent ball, the gear and the sprockets. This every 1500 rounds or if you happen to forget a primer. Yes, it WILL mess up everything.

NEVER use crimped primer cases unless the crimp is well removed.

The case feeder is a trick to use, you have 2 shuttles and 2 actuation wires. Use shorter one with .40 and if it doesn't go forward into the plate enough, use the shorter wire.

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