Quoted:
Sorry in advance for the numerous questions... but I'm in a brass sorting and tumbling mode and I'm trying to figure out which way I want to go. Here's my basic entering argument/assumptions: I'm reloading for a precision AR, I'm NOT worried about blasting ammo, I have plenty of that. So I'm trying to concentrate on the best, most consistant brass of what I have on hand that will require the least amount of work to get it in shape to shoot. Also, I have a LOT of once fired .223 brass of various brands, so running out is not a concern anytime soon. So here goes with the questions to the hive experts:
1. Of these three brands: LC, Federal (FC) and Privi PPU - which would you go with? My 1st instinct was to go with LC, but with the 1st run of reloads I did with them (LC08), I found them to be fairly inconsistant and varied weights a lot even within the same headstamp year. Plus they are a PITA to ream out the primer pocket crimp. I probably have the most of the FC brass from the walmart value packs (50 grn HP), next would be LC but spread over numerous year lots and finally PPU. Should I stick with the LC and if so why? I'm leaning towards the FC because I have so much of it and even if the brass doesn't last as long as LC or PPU, so what? I have not loaded the FC or PPU yet, only one batch of the LC and was not impressed with the consistancy over the chronograph of the brass.
2. Almost all but a very few of my FC brass has a blue primer sealant. Does that imply its also crimped, or is it just a sealant alone? Is there anything special I need to do to remove the sealant or will a normal primer pocket brush take care of it?
3. Same with the PPU brass as the question above but some of the PPU brass is marked 5.56 and came from their XM193 rounds. Am I to assume that they DO crimp those primer pockets on the 5.56 marked brass?
4. I have some cats & dogs misc brass that I picked up on the range that I can't ID. Who makes "WCC", "AP" and "TWC" headstamps?
5. I have some smaller quatities of PMC brass - is it any good or toss it?
All good questions. With precision reloading and shooting, consistency is the key. Unfortunately, there are no shortcuts.
1. LC is a great place to start. Sorting cases by weight is up to you, but do it after all of your processing, i.e.;
- decapping brass and tumbling
- swaging primer pockets
- reaming and deburring inside and primer side of flash hole (important for consistent ignition)
- resizing
- trimming to length (1.750")
- chamfer inside of case mouth and deburr outside
- weigh and sort brass
Also, how do you know it was brass causing the inconsistent velocities over the chronograph? What are you using to throw and measure your powder charge with?
2. I have about 1k of the same, once fired FC with the sealant. Mine were not crimped, but you will have to inspect the case head after decapping to verify your brass.
3. PPU 5.56 brass is crimped, but again verify with your brass.
4. WCC = Winchester. A P = is Armscor from the Pillipines. TWC = could be either Twin Cities or Tula Cartridge Works. This site here is a great resource: http://www.afte.org/ExamResources/gallery2/v/Headstamp-Gallery/
5. Prep it and find out.
6. Get these books and read them: http://www.zediker.com/books/handloading/hlmain.html
http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Shooting-Reloading-Guide-Brennan
7. Be safe and have fun.