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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 9/12/2005 1:13:24 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/12/2005 1:14:20 PM EDT by JohnRippert]
A couple of pics for MauserMark and anyone else looking into the St Marie no gunsmithing scope mount.





Inside view





Showing the offset to clear the empties


Link Posted: 9/12/2005 1:42:05 PM EDT
thanks for the pics.

I'm curious as to where and how it clamps to the receiver, and what actually clamps, do the bolts dig into the receiver?

Also it looks like from the the shooters view the rounds may leave some brass streaks on the way out, is this the case? wouldn't really bother me, just curious.

thanks again.

-mm
Link Posted: 9/12/2005 2:08:05 PM EDT



The groove with the lip on the bottom fits over the extension of the receiver that the bolt rides in. The tab fits into the one inch wide opening in the receiver. Then the mounting screw pulls the locking lug into the side of the one inch wide opening. The screw never touches the rifle, just two flats on the mount so there is no marking up the receiver. If you look close at the scope you can see some brass marks where the casing hit the scope body, no biggie.
Link Posted: 9/12/2005 4:38:45 PM EDT
Very nice. Does it allow you to hold a sub MOA zero? Also, where can we purchase one?

Thanks,
White Horse
Link Posted: 9/12/2005 5:22:12 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/12/2005 5:22:39 PM EDT by JohnRippert]
The best group I have put through it is just under 2 inches with GP11. I think it is capable of at least 1.5 if I do my part. I got mine from Graf & Sons.

www.grafs.com/vendor/product/15734


It uses 3/8 inch rings and cost more than the rifle, but worth it IMO.
Link Posted: 9/12/2005 6:18:15 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/12/2005 6:20:10 PM EDT by MauserMark]
I bet with some leupold rings and a high power leupold scope this thing could get at least 1inch or less groups at a hundred with special handloads. I'd be really interested to see someone try it with this set-up.

It just seems that if I came up with the $250 I'd need for the mount and a kalinka optics scope and rings I'd use, I'd blow the money on AK or AR crap.

btw, John where in TX are you located? I'm in Houston, the refugee city


-mark
Link Posted: 9/12/2005 6:54:09 PM EDT
West side of Houston.
Link Posted: 9/12/2005 9:15:54 PM EDT
Here's pics of the St. Marie drill/tap mount on my restored K-31. I don't recommend these unless you have resurrected a real beater. Mine was rusted, and the stock cracked. After some extensive rebluing and a new stock, I used the drill & tap mount. It's VERY solid, but does offset from the left so you either have to use a cheek pad or use your left eye to sight it (I like it, but it's strange getting used to). It's less than half the $$ for the drill/tap mount, still allows stripper clip loading, and you don't have to use an LER scope which is nice. But, again, you have to permanently alter the gun so don't bubba something you'll regret later.




Link Posted: 9/12/2005 9:40:46 PM EDT
Swingset, I thought about getting a couple more K31s from AIM and finding one that was decently accurate with a good bore to put a drill/tap mount on like that. Whenever Wolf comes out with their dang ammo, it will get me off my duff, as I'll actually be able to SHOOT those rifles! I have two right now, but want more!!

Did you do the drill/tap yourself, or have a smith do it?
Link Posted: 9/13/2005 6:21:52 AM EDT

Originally Posted By JohnRippert:
West side of Houston.



NW side here.

have you met any of the houston hometown ARFCOM crew? We meet usually every tuesday (I only make maybe one dinner a month). We just had a full auto shoot a few weeks ago. You should stop by. I'd also like to take a look at your K31. Which ranges do you go to? My main ranges are hot-wells, American Shooting Center, and Carter's Country.

-mark
Link Posted: 9/13/2005 6:22:59 AM EDT

Originally Posted By swingset:
Here's pics of the St. Marie drill/tap mount on my restored K-31. I don't recommend these unless you have resurrected a real beater. Mine was rusted, and the stock cracked. After some extensive rebluing and a new stock, I used the drill & tap mount. It's VERY solid, but does offset from the left so you either have to use a cheek pad or use your left eye to sight it (I like it, but it's strange getting used to). It's less than half the $$ for the drill/tap mount, still allows stripper clip loading, and you don't have to use an LER scope which is nice. But, again, you have to permanently alter the gun so don't bubba something you'll regret later.

home.alltel.net/swingset/temp/K-31_mount right_side.JPG

home.alltel.net/swingset/temp/K-31_mount_closeup.JPG



what did you use to re-blue, and what steps did you take?
Link Posted: 9/13/2005 10:13:50 PM EDT

Originally Posted By MauserMark:

Originally Posted By swingset:
Here's pics of the St. Marie drill/tap mount on my restored K-31. I don't recommend these unless you have resurrected a real beater. Mine was rusted, and the stock cracked. After some extensive rebluing and a new stock, I used the drill & tap mount. It's VERY solid, but does offset from the left so you either have to use a cheek pad or use your left eye to sight it (I like it, but it's strange getting used to). It's less than half the $$ for the drill/tap mount, still allows stripper clip loading, and you don't have to use an LER scope which is nice. But, again, you have to permanently alter the gun so don't bubba something you'll regret later.

home.alltel.net/swingset/temp/K-31_mount right_side.JPG

home.alltel.net/swingset/temp/K-31_mount_closeup.JPG



what did you use to re-blue, and what steps did you take?



I used Brownells Oxpho Blue. Very good, for a cold blue.

I stripped the old blue with Navel Jelly, then polished the metal with jeweler's rouge and followed it with steel wool and brake cleaner to wash away the gunk. Then some denatured alcohol and once dry, I put the metal in the oven at 120 degrees for 15 minutes. If it's warm, the bluing works much better, much more evenly. I did 3 coats, hitting the metal in between with 0000 steel wool then alcohol to clean and back in the oven.

Once I was done, I sprayed the entire gun down with CLP, and with a CLP-soaked rag went over the whole gun thorougly.

It worked VERY well, the gun is deep blue/black and is holding up very well.

Matthew_Q, I had my friend who's a machinist do the drill & tap. It's a chore, the receiver is HARD, and lining it up along the bore axis is crucial so best left to someone with a machine shop or a gunsmith.

Link Posted: 9/14/2005 6:24:22 AM EDT

Originally Posted By swingset:
Here's pics of the St. Marie drill/tap mount on my restored K-31. I don't recommend these unless you have resurrected a real beater. Mine was rusted, and the stock cracked. After some extensive rebluing and a new stock, I used the drill & tap mount. It's VERY solid, but does offset from the left so you either have to use a cheek pad or use your left eye to sight it (I like it, but it's strange getting used to). It's less than half the $$ for the drill/tap mount, still allows stripper clip loading, and you don't have to use an LER scope which is nice. But, again, you have to permanently alter the gun so don't bubba something you'll regret later.

home.alltel.net/swingset/temp/K-31_mount right_side.JPG

home.alltel.net/swingset/temp/K-31_mount_closeup.JPG



wow, I just realized it now, that is one long scope!

what kind of recticle does it have?
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