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Posted: 5/29/2008 9:18:23 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/19/2008 8:48:31 PM EDT by Alaskacajun]
I have purchased a few 62 gr steel core bullets and was wondering how difficult it would be to paint the tips green!

I did a Archive search just for fun and couldn't find anything for the past 3 years about the subject. I find it hard to believe that ARFcom doesn't have a "how do I paint the tips green" thread at least once a month! It seems like it would rate right up there with "what is the BEST AR-15!"

Or maybe not...

- Clint
Link Posted: 5/30/2008 3:31:19 AM EDT
Make a template the same size as your loading block.

punch a bunch of 12 caliber holes in it.

Krylon.

I dunno, it's what I cam eup with off the top of my head.
Link Posted: 5/30/2008 9:28:47 AM EDT
I would either put them on stripper clips, and dip 10 at a time, or dip them individually as they came out of the press.
Link Posted: 5/30/2008 10:45:06 AM EDT
Ummmm Ok, forgive me for sounding stupid here, but I fail to see the purpose behind painting the tips?? Can someone enlighten me on this??
Link Posted: 5/30/2008 11:19:05 AM EDT
fast identification??

Again, i don't knw, I'm just guessin here.
Link Posted: 5/30/2008 11:31:58 AM EDT

Originally Posted By nightwolf357:
Ummmm Ok, forgive me for sounding stupid here, but I fail to see the purpose behind painting the tips?? Can someone enlighten me on this??

It's like painting a car red. Makes 'em faster.
Link Posted: 5/30/2008 11:40:34 AM EDT
We, in Mother Army, used the markings for identification.
Link Posted: 5/30/2008 11:50:15 AM EDT

Originally Posted By nightwolf357:
Ummmm Ok, forgive me for sounding stupid here, but I fail to see the purpose behind painting the tips?? Can someone enlighten me on this??
Ditto here. Why bother painting them green? Just dump them into an ammo box labeled, 62g FMJBT/SC and you are all set.

Too much time on your hands?
Link Posted: 5/30/2008 11:54:03 AM EDT

Ditto here. Why bother painting them green? Just dump them into an ammo box labeled, 62g FMJBT/SC and you are all set.

Too much time on your hands?


Ever wonder why ammo cans are never carried on a mission?

Anyway, the painted tip is for Identification purposes only, and Krylon should work should you keep your ammo in the ready condition which is in the magazine.
Link Posted: 5/30/2008 2:32:59 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Skg_Mre_Lght:

Ditto here. Why bother painting them green? Just dump them into an ammo box labeled, 62g FMJBT/SC and you are all set.

Too much time on your hands?


Ever wonder why ammo cans are never carried on a mission?

Anyway, the painted tip is for Identification purposes only, and Krylon should work should you keep your ammo in the ready condition which is in the magazine.


We carried .50 and 7.62 in the can. Belted, of course.

The reason for the green tip was transitional when the A2 was introduced. A2s could use either M193/196 or M855/856. A1s could only use M193/196 as the longer, heavier 855/856 will tumble in flight, reducing accurate range to 100 meters or so.

In reality, since M193/196 was NEVER NATO standard, they could have relied on the head stamp as these non-NATO rounds have no "circle-cross" stamp of NATO conformity. But Marines know colors...
Link Posted: 5/30/2008 2:50:33 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/30/2008 2:52:01 PM EDT by redleg13a]
Actually, some M193 did come with the NATO cross on the headstamp. I have some LC 91, 92 ad 93 headstamp M193, that I received directly from the OKARNG, that has the NATO cross.

Forgot to add, I painted some by putting them on stripper clips and then holding a piece of paper over all bu the tip and then hitting it with the spraypaint. Flip it over and do it again.
Link Posted: 5/30/2008 3:08:51 PM EDT
Ehh, granted I can understand why the .mil does it but for reloading your own I can see that you could do it as well. I guess I just dont really see the need for it myself. to each his own I say on this one, not offend anyone by my thoughts on this.
Link Posted: 5/30/2008 5:47:12 PM EDT
Like I said, after seeing thread after thread titled "which is the BEST AR" I just assumed there would be a pletera of threads in the reloading section asking how to paint the tips green. I was surprised when I didn't find any!

- Clint
Link Posted: 5/30/2008 6:38:25 PM EDT
Link Posted: 5/31/2008 7:54:14 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/31/2008 7:58:35 AM EDT by RONINBUDO]
what kind of paint do you use then [water, oil] ,if you dont use the right paint could it do any damage to the weapon?
Link Posted: 5/31/2008 9:25:40 AM EDT
just get a sheet of paper and a holepuncher or something and put a buch of holes at the same spacing as your ammo trays and spraypaint it.


The paint will never do damage to the gun. It never acutally contacts anything.
Link Posted: 5/31/2008 9:46:43 AM EDT
I'd think there would be *some* contact on the feed ramps and the top of the chamber where the tip hits before rotating in line with the bore. Otherwise, why would soft point bullets get beat up?
Link Posted: 5/31/2008 6:21:46 PM EDT
You could just paint or sharpie a handfull, then used the painted rounds for the top two rounds in the mag.
I started a thread on this a few months ago, but found painting to be a PITA.... maybe worth the effort for some SHTF ammo, but not for normal fodder.
Link Posted: 5/31/2008 6:37:44 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/31/2008 6:41:25 PM EDT by Skg_Mre_Lght]

Originally Posted By Keith_J:

We carried .50 and 7.62 in the can. Belted, of course.

The reason for the green tip was transitional when the A2 was introduced. A2s could use either M193/196 or M855/856. A1s could only use M193/196 as the longer, heavier 855/856 will tumble in flight, reducing accurate range to 100 meters or so.

In reality, since M193/196 was NEVER NATO standard, they could have relied on the head stamp as these non-NATO rounds have no "circle-cross" stamp of NATO conformity. But Marines know colors...


Not I...we carried belted 5.56 in the drums, and the rest in magazines when we were out of the Command area. BTW, I thought we were talking about 5.56, not 7.62 or .50...but I guess I over-generalized with simply stating "ammo cans". HAHAH!
Link Posted: 6/18/2008 5:14:03 AM EDT
i would be worried about the paint rubbing off in the wrong places or heating up and clogging up the barrel. how are they painted from the factory? do they just use regular krylon paint?
Link Posted: 6/18/2008 6:27:21 AM EDT
Just had a strange thought. What about soaking a sponge in paint then just pressing the tip in a bit to get the paint on the round. I would think it would be somewhat mess free as it would be easy to regulate the amount of paint by how hard you press. Although I am not sure what paint would be right for the application.
Link Posted: 6/18/2008 6:33:55 AM EDT
I never did paint those... I loaded a few mags and colored the first round with a sharpie to let me know what they were. I also put a piece of colored tape around the bottom of the mag as well.

Most of my SHTF ammo is Hornady TAP and has a black brass so it's easily identifiable. But I do have a lot of 55 gr plinking ammo that I wouldn't want to confuse with the 62 gr stuff. I have all of it in ammo cans that are clearly marked as to what is inside of them!

- Clint
Link Posted: 6/18/2008 7:41:10 AM EDT
The paint is a light pigment, medium body nitrocellulose lacquer with green tint. The difference between it and primer sealant is the tint color and pigment.

You could use nitrate dope with a bit of green and some white butyrate dope for pigment. Where to find this? Hobby shop, radio controlled aircraft. It is way old school but SIG still makes it. Tinting? You are on your own. Experiment. Start at full concentration and dilute until the thickness comes out just a bit thin.

Why nitrate dope? It is flammable, any residue in the chamber will be incinerated. It is the same nitrocellulose as the base propellent.
Link Posted: 6/18/2008 8:01:43 AM EDT

Originally Posted By tothemax:
i would be worried about the paint rubbing off in the wrong places or heating up and clogging up the barrel. how are they painted from the factory? do they just use regular krylon paint?
They probably use a nitrocelulose lacquer, similar to the sealant used on the primer. Which, by the way, is pretty much identical to nail polish.

I'd go with model paint, since I have yet to see a nail polish that's anywhere near the right green, and all the "green" polishes I have seen have been pretty nasty.

Since the GI paint isn't a problem, using any commonly available paint shouldn't be a problem either, just so long as you do the painting right. It's a very thin coat on GI bullets, so make sure whatever paint you use gets you that thin coat. Model builders' paint pens might be a good way to go...

And I can see a lot of reasons for identifying individual rounds by bullet weight or whatever, and that painting the tips would be pretty much a smart way to do it. If you can't tell by the ogive whether you're looking at a 62 grain or 77 grain round, wouldn't you really want to know which it was BEFORE you chambered it?
Link Posted: 6/18/2008 3:07:30 PM EDT
Use a paint pen, it is fast and easy. I paint my rounds with different color tips for
identification as I load mine all in stripper clips. When I go to the range I just grab
what I want to shoot and toss it in my range bag. Easy to tell then what I have. I have
never had a problem with the paint messing anything up either.
Link Posted: 6/18/2008 5:47:00 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 6/18/2008 5:47:58 PM EDT by cybrguy]
This could get really fun, take a few rounds and paint the tips hot Pink, purple, or some other odd color. Next, find a "special" container for them so your friends are sure to notice them. Then proceed to have fun with your shooting buddies when they ask about the pink tipped ammo...
Link Posted: 6/18/2008 7:21:04 PM EDT
soak a sponge in the paint, poke and go. I would dry them in the oven at 350 for 20 minutes
Link Posted: 6/18/2008 7:28:41 PM EDT
I tried something similar to this (soaking a paper towel) but the paint would not show
up evenly on the bullet tips. Maybe jsut the paint I was useing (Testors model paint)
Link Posted: 6/19/2008 2:35:44 AM EDT
How about using green nail polish thinned with laquer thinner or acetone and just dip them?
Link Posted: 6/19/2008 8:36:57 AM EDT
The stencil over the loading block idea seems reasonable.

I'd use a piece of cardboard and some krylon.
Link Posted: 6/19/2008 8:53:56 AM EDT

Originally Posted By sleepercaprice1:
How about using green nail polish thinned with laquer thinner or acetone and just dip them?


I was suggesting something with less man card revocation potential. Nitrate dope is the same thing as most nail polishes and should be much cheaper.
Link Posted: 6/19/2008 10:07:18 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Keith_J:

Originally Posted By sleepercaprice1:
How about using green nail polish thinned with laquer thinner or acetone and just dip them?


I was suggesting something with less man card revocation potential. Nitrate dope is the same thing as most nail polishes and should be much cheaper.


Yeah, I guess you're right. I bet nail polish will be easier to find, though. These days, I don't think anybody would even think twice about a guy buying nail polish.

Unless you're doing huge quantities of ammo, I wouldn't think cost is much of a factor.
Link Posted: 6/19/2008 10:59:14 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Keith_J:

Originally Posted By sleepercaprice1:
How about using green nail polish thinned with laquer thinner or acetone and just dip them?


I was suggesting something with less man card revocation potential. Nitrate dope is the same thing as most nail polishes and should be much cheaper.
As long as there's a real hobby shop anywhere near you, go for the dope instead of nail polish. Not only will dope be more like nitrocelulose lacquer, you'll have the opportunity to get less "odd and interesting" colors. The closest green I found in a recent trip with my wife to the nail polish aisle was to "minty" and it sparkled. How ya gonna explain your "sparkle-tipped" ammo at the range?

(OTOH, I've found both good reds and good blues in nail polish, and those will go into my "primer sealant" project later this summer, as will a sampling of nitrate dopes.)
Link Posted: 6/19/2008 1:36:40 PM EDT
Yeah, in my case, going to the hobby store to buy nitrate dope would not be cheaper...it is just as bad as the gun store.
Link Posted: 6/19/2008 1:58:13 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 6/20/2008 4:58:49 AM EDT by AeroE]
Link Posted: 6/20/2008 4:42:52 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Keith_J:
The paint is a light pigment, medium body nitrocellulose lacquer with green tint. The difference between it and primer sealant is the tint color and pigment.

You could use nitrate dope with a bit of green and some white butyrate dope for pigment. Where to find this? Hobby shop, radio controlled aircraft. It is way old school but SIG still makes it. Tinting? You are on your own. Experiment. Start at full concentration and dilute until the thickness comes out just a bit thin.

Why nitrate dope? It is flammable, any residue in the chamber will be incinerated. It is the same nitrocellulose as the base propellent.


It would be interesting for one of you who has a few green-tips to briefly hold a removed bullet green-end to a lighter to see if it flares up a little.
Link Posted: 6/20/2008 5:14:33 AM EDT

Originally Posted By The_Floridian:

Originally Posted By Keith_J:
The paint is a light pigment, medium body nitrocellulose lacquer with green tint. The difference between it and primer sealant is the tint color and pigment.

You could use nitrate dope with a bit of green and some white butyrate dope for pigment. Where to find this? Hobby shop, radio controlled aircraft. It is way old school but SIG still makes it. Tinting? You are on your own. Experiment. Start at full concentration and dilute until the thickness comes out just a bit thin.

Why nitrate dope? It is flammable, any residue in the chamber will be incinerated. It is the same nitrocellulose as the base propellent.


It would be interesting for one of you who has a few green-tips to briefly hold a removed bullet green-end to a lighter to see if it flares up a little.
It won't flare, not like guncotton, if that's what you're expecting. Nitrated cellulose dissolves in solvents like acetone, and depending on how it loses that solvent it will be able to do a lot of things. In the case of these lacquers, the lacquer base is the controlling factor, and these lacquers don't burn like guncotton because of that (among other things).
Link Posted: 6/22/2008 6:16:05 AM EDT
Buy yourself, or find a friend who has, a box of Hornady LeverRevolution rifle ammo (I have 30-30, so that's the only one that I can testify to). Inside the box the cartridges are housed in a black plastic housing, and those pesky little tips, all twenty of them, stick out the bottom of the plastic housing giving you access to paint all 20---if you so desire.
Link Posted: 7/19/2008 8:47:19 PM EDT
Well, I finally finished loading all 1000 rounds of SS109's that I started on the other day. I decided to try painting a few of the projectiles just so I could top off the mag with some "green tips", to let me know at a glance what was in the mag.

I went and bought some Acrylic paint from the paint store. I tried it out on a few bullets and ran the same 30 rounds manually through my AR to see if it would rub off excessivly on my feedramps... it didn't.

I experimented with different methods of getting on the projectile and finally decided that it was easiest using a paint brush. The first method I tried was just dipping it in the paint and then twirling it in a paper towel till I got the desired thinness. That way sucked. Using a paintbrush you are able to get it very thin and pretty uniform.

I wouldn't want to attempt to do 1000 rounds that way but instead I did approx 200 rounds which gives me enough to put a few in each mag near the top so I can see that these have the steel penetrators.

Here's a few pix so ya'll can see what they look like!

- Clint









Link Posted: 7/20/2008 1:27:42 AM EDT
Good update.

My method of how to tell which bullet is loaded in a case, without looking at the load data on a 3x5 card in the ammo box is

SS-109 only in Nato + cross mil case.

Hornaday 55gr FMJBT in LC non Nato case.

Bulk whatever 55 gr FMJBT in any mil non Nato case.

Target loads in plastic 50 and 100 rd plastic boxes in ammo cans. Winchester, Remington brass,
Link Posted: 7/20/2008 4:00:56 AM EDT
Looks good! But having all your rounds lined up that way makes me think that you could simply roll them underneath the paint brush (using a suitable wood block to keep 'em in line) and get all of 'em done without too much trouble. Just line up the rounds and roll! No, I haven't actually tried that with 1000 rounds, but it seems like it should work fairly well, especially if you can work out a way to just pour rounds out into a straight line. *That's probably the catch in the whole process.*
Link Posted: 7/21/2008 4:17:59 AM EDT
Easier/faster way is to soak a thin sponge (3/16-1/4" wet) in green paint and press the loaded cartridge into the thin sponge. The bullet tip bottoms out on a hard surface contolling the height of the ring and making it somewhat uniform.
Link Posted: 7/21/2008 5:28:48 AM EDT
Link Posted: 7/21/2008 7:16:02 PM EDT
This "jig" took about 5 minutes of looking around the house, and 60 seconds with some Krylon paint. Using a better suited paint and refining the technique would, no doubt, yield a better finished product. I just wanted to show what I came up with "shooting from the hip."


The "jig." I just stuck the tip of the bullet through one of the holes.


Finished product could be better with a better suited paint.

Good luck!
jonblack
Link Posted: 7/23/2008 1:29:58 AM EDT
I'm tinking you guys need a girlfriend!
Link Posted: 7/23/2008 3:53:29 AM EDT

Originally Posted By cybrguy:
This could get really fun, take a few rounds and paint the tips hot Pink, purple, or some other odd color. Next, find a "special" container for them so your friends are sure to notice them. Then proceed to have fun with your shooting buddies when they ask about the pink tipped ammo...


them theres is for the kittens
Link Posted: 9/26/2008 2:41:27 PM EDT
i tried to find the brush on krylon paint but couldnt find it anywhere! I opted for their short cuts spray paint in the green.

what i did was take an old plastic pistol ammo crate 40 s&w (ones that come with a box of ammo) and drilled holes in each of the spots. i then placed a round upside down in each hole thus making the bullet pop out of the bottom. after loading 50 i flipped the ammo and crate over and protruding through was just the tips of the ammo. next step was spray from a few different angles and wa la it was done. i did 250rounds in about 30 mins.
Link Posted: 9/26/2008 3:03:35 PM EDT
For ID I use a permanent marker on the primer.
Link Posted: 9/26/2008 5:57:36 PM EDT
Im not a fan of people painting their own green tips, I was sold 500 rounds by someone, and they WERE not acutal SS109 bullets I later found out... shady gunshow dealers.
Link Posted: 9/26/2008 8:42:57 PM EDT
my father inlaw worked at olin( winchester) in east alton he did actualy paint the green tips for the ss109"s ill ask him how he did. hell now youve got me curious too
Link Posted: 9/26/2008 8:59:28 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/7/2008 3:01:42 PM EDT by gearhead721]
best way for me is to soak my targets in green paint and commence firing before they dry.
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