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Posted: 10/23/2010 8:49:57 PM EDT
I have a takeoff 10/22 barrel on the way, and I'm looking for a little project for it. I have access to an older 3 axis mill, and a manual lathe w/ feed. I already have a 22lr upper for my AR so that's out. I was thinking about somethign along the lines of a little bolt action pistol with a MOE AR grip, or if I went crazy, a Ruger MK2 clone. Or build a 10/22 receiver with integral top rail, AR buffer tube threads, and grip. Just kinda floating some thoughts out there, but I was also hoping that somebody might have some drawings or plans for cool ideas like that.
Link Posted: 10/23/2010 9:23:31 PM EDT
hmm...  make a miniature M107 clone
Link Posted: 10/23/2010 10:50:45 PM EDT
That sounds like a pretty sick idea... I'm also kicking around doing hollywood style pistol with a forward box (factory 10rd) magazine and a flash hider on a stubby barrel. It would have almost no muzzle velocity but it would be a nice loud range toy. Hmm... to the sketch pad....
Link Posted: 10/24/2010 5:32:01 PM EDT
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 2:58:43 PM EDT
Originally Posted By AeroE:
Build a version of the 22 rifle in Shotgun News last year.

It's a single shot auto unloader that uses a 10/22 barrel, an AR trigger and hammer, and a handful of fabricated parts.  I think a search on SGN-22 will turn up any info on the internet.

I have 3D solid models drawn of the bolt, firing pin, cocking handle, and so on, along with mods for attaching the barrel without welding to the reciever.

I too seen that build and thought it would be a nice little project.

Something I have done in the past to some of my 10/22 barrels and some centerfire barrels was add a tensioning sleeve to the outside. I machined the barrel concentric to the bore, leaving a shoulder for the sleeve at the chamber end and threading the muzzle 1/2-28. I then added an outer sleeve. The end of the barrel is threaded for a tensioning nut. The tensioning nut should have a shoulder for the sleeve to stop on and be drilled and tapped 1/2-28. You make the sleeve long enough for you to slide it over the barrel then be able to tighten the tensioning nut.

This stretches the barrel slightly and from my experience seems to help the barrel be more consistent and thus more accurate. And depenign on the material used for the sleeve and nut the barrel could be substantially lighter than a factory barrel.

Something else to do is set the shoulder on the barrel back .160" and then shorten the breech the same amount. You will have to file the extractor groove back in but this makes for a very accurate factory barrel. And because the side to side dimension of the chamber is still loose like a factory sporter chamber it is still as reliable as a factory chamber yet the bullet touches the rifling when chambered. The .160" measurement is what I used for Federal Automatch, some other types of ammo might require less or more be taken off. But the .160" seems to work with everything I have tried except CCI Subsonic HP's.

If you need pictures ask and I'll load some up to photobucket ad post them.

Link Posted: 10/28/2010 4:53:57 PM EDT

How can we get the 3D solid models of the bolt, firing pin, cocking handle, and so on, along with mods for attaching the barrel without welding to the receiver?

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