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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 12/24/2005 7:09:17 AM EDT
I want a Decent shooter , that will serve me for many years without messing with it.

Trouble is the CMP is running out of really good M1s , and the prices keep going up.
I am not a Collector , and don't plan on shooting competetively.

I have thought about getting a Rack grade and a new CMP stock and Criterion barrel.
(could sell the old stock and barrel for a few bucks)

Or I could get a Service grade , and evaluate the rifle when I get it.

I want to make the most of my $$$ , what would you guys do?
Link Posted: 12/24/2005 8:22:47 AM EDT
If you're in PA, the drive up to the North Store wouldn't kill you.
Link Posted: 12/24/2005 8:28:39 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Sniper_Wolfe:
If you're in PA, the drive up to the North Store wouldn't kill you.



+1

Read my adventure.


Link Posted: 12/24/2005 9:43:46 AM EDT

Originally Posted By CavVet:

Originally Posted By Sniper_Wolfe:
If you're in PA, the drive up to the North Store wouldn't kill you.



+1

Read my adventure.





That link tkae me to the main ARFCOM index. Is this a post in the team forum? If so could you repost here?
Link Posted: 12/24/2005 11:24:55 AM EDT
Don't automatically assume that Rack Grades have junk barrels. I just picked up a Rack Grade from a buddy - it shot about 3-4" at 100 yards when he first got it. I peened the barrel for tighter gas cylinder spline engagement and he used the Brownells M1 Garand crowning tool to touch up the muzzle. The groups dropped to 1 to 1-1/2" with his handloads (pretty much the same as the M2 loading - he even uses Lake City cases). We have rebarreled two other of his rack grades, one with an inexpensive late 60's SA barrel (it holds right at 1" at 100 yards) and one with an unmarked commercial barrel (it consistently shoots under 1"). Nothing has been done to the rifles beyond rebarreling and peening the gas cylinder area, and neither of the barrels cost over $100. 1" group are about the most you can get out of a Garand without MAJOR work.
Link Posted: 12/24/2005 2:13:10 PM EDT
I just got a 5.6 SA Greek Field Grade with a TE of 3 and a very tight and clean muzzel. Haven't shot it yet but it should shoot better than I do.

Do a Service Grade or better yet a correct. You won't be disapointed and if you are the CMP will make it right.

Just do it.
Link Posted: 12/24/2005 2:15:30 PM EDT

Originally Posted By zeekh:
That link tkae me to the main ARFCOM index. Is this a post in the team forum? If so could you repost here?



Yes & no. Sorry, I put it in Team on purpose. Membership does have its privlidges.

Link Posted: 12/24/2005 3:05:29 PM EDT

Originally Posted By lancew:
Don't automatically assume that Rack Grades have junk barrels. I just picked up a Rack Grade from a buddy - it shot about 3-4" at 100 yards when he first got it. I peened the barrel for tighter gas cylinder spline engagement and he used the Brownells M1 Garand crowning tool to touch up the muzzle. The groups dropped to 1 to 1-1/2" with his handloads (pretty much the same as the M2 loading - he even uses Lake City cases). We have rebarreled two other of his rack grades, one with an inexpensive late 60's SA barrel (it holds right at 1" at 100 yards) and one with an unmarked commercial barrel (it consistently shoots under 1"). Nothing has been done to the rifles beyond rebarreling and peening the gas cylinder area, and neither of the barrels cost over $100. 1" group are about the most you can get out of a Garand without MAJOR work.



Could you please explain the peening process?
Link Posted: 12/24/2005 5:27:40 PM EDT
Get the service grade. I ended up with a H&R that had a 2 on the TE gauge. Wood was crap but who cares. I replaced it with a new set from Boyds for under a 100 bucks.
Link Posted: 12/25/2005 5:44:29 PM EDT
Get the service grade, I bought one this summer with a TE of 2 ME 2 total mixmaster, sold it at cost to a friend, He wanted a mostly WWII rifle but I explained that this one has a good barrel and stock set, everything else on the rifle part-wise was decent,but mostly post-war. Well, he started shooting it with the Greek ammo the CMP has, and found out this rifle will deliver some impressive accuracy, This guy has'nt been shooting very long,(4-5 months) I set him up on a bench at my club's range, there is a 24" dia. gong out at 300yds bringing his sights up 4 clicks from his 100yd setting, he was right on at 300, hit the gong 7 out of 8, several times,He now has alot of respect for his rifle, and found out that a 300yd shot with open sights, is not impossible as he once thought, but instead, quite possible. We're working on prone, and offhand positions, But yes, for your first M1 I'd get a service grade the barrel will probably be pretty decent, and will last you thousands of rounds if you take care of it and don't do alot of rapid fire with it. If at all possible, go to the North Store and pick one out yourself, they have ME and TE gages you can use, and the staff there will bend over backwards to help you get a good rifle. Tell them what you're looking for and they will be glad to help you out, And don't forget the ammo while you're there!!!
Link Posted: 12/25/2005 6:30:49 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Sniper_Wolfe:

Originally Posted By lancew:
Don't automatically assume that Rack Grades have junk barrels. I just picked up a Rack Grade from a buddy - it shot about 3-4" at 100 yards when he first got it. I peened the barrel for tighter gas cylinder spline engagement and he used the Brownells M1 Garand crowning tool to touch up the muzzle. The groups dropped to 1 to 1-1/2" with his handloads (pretty much the same as the M2 loading - he even uses Lake City cases). We have rebarreled two other of his rack grades, one with an inexpensive late 60's SA barrel (it holds right at 1" at 100 yards) and one with an unmarked commercial barrel (it consistently shoots under 1"). Nothing has been done to the rifles beyond rebarreling and peening the gas cylinder area, and neither of the barrels cost over $100. 1" group are about the most you can get out of a Garand without MAJOR work.



Could you please explain the peening process?



Peening the barrel corrects for gas cylinder movement if the gas cylinder twists side-to-side on the barrel (front to back movement is normal). The gas cylinder has 3 splines in the bore that slides on the barrel that prevents it from twisting on the barrel. The barrel has 3 grooves machined into it to acommodate the cylinder. Peening one side of the groove on each of the grooves with a hammer reduces the effective width of each groove and tighten the cylinder up. It is important to lightly peen each of the grooves and try the cylinder often, and to only peen the same side (relatively) on each groove. Doing this makes sure your front sight doesn't wander - it has made a measurable difference on every rifle that I've ever done it to (that had a loose cylinder).
Link Posted: 12/25/2005 7:15:30 PM EDT
Go to the North Store and see if you can't find a Danish Garand with a VAR barrel. THOSE things are suprisingly good shooters. And by good, I mean ~1MOA, in some cases less.
Link Posted: 12/26/2005 5:45:32 AM EDT
Get a service grade from CMP. If possible go to the North store after doing your homework on the M1. IIRC you are on the the eastern side of PA. It took me about 3 hrs to get to the North store from Pittsburgh so it might be a 7-8 hour trip for you. If you ask me it is worth the trip to oogle over 100 diffrent Garands in one place not to mention the ammo and other accessories. Camp Perry is pretty nice to see too.
Link Posted: 12/26/2005 4:21:04 PM EDT
Does the peening affect the way the front sight/gas tube sit on the barrel?
What are the chances of having them "lean"?
Link Posted: 12/26/2005 5:29:59 PM EDT
They won't lean..all you're doing is tightening up the splines on the barrel where the gas cylinder fits, this operation will improve accuracy, as the front sight stays in place and is not moving from shot to shot. The first M1 I bought from the CMP had to have the gas cylinder peened, before I peened the gas cylinder it shot 6" groups at 100yds. Peening the gas cylinder the groups shrank to 3" at 100yds.
Link Posted: 12/26/2005 8:02:45 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Ralph:
They won't lean..all you're doing is tightening up the splines on the barrel where the gas cylinder fits, this operation will improve accuracy, as the front sight stays in place and is not moving from shot to shot. The first M1 I bought from the CMP had to have the gas cylinder peened, before I peened the gas cylinder it shot 6" groups at 100yds. Peening the gas cylinder the groups shrank to 3" at 100yds.



Cool!
Link Posted: 12/26/2005 10:03:50 PM EDT
Link Posted: 12/27/2005 5:12:40 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Punani:

Originally Posted By Ralph:
They won't lean..all you're doing is tightening up the splines on the barrel where the gas cylinder fits, this operation will improve accuracy, as the front sight stays in place and is not moving from shot to shot. The first M1 I bought from the CMP had to have the gas cylinder peened, before I peened the gas cylinder it shot 6" groups at 100yds. Peening the gas cylinder the groups shrank to 3" at 100yds.



Cool!



+1 on this process....ALSO pick up "the U.S. .30 Caliber Service Rifles" by Jerry Khunhausen.....indespensible tech manual on the Garnd and M1A/M14.
Link Posted: 12/27/2005 8:29:47 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Punani:

Originally Posted By Ralph:
They won't lean..all you're doing is tightening up the splines on the barrel where the gas cylinder fits, this operation will improve accuracy, as the front sight stays in place and is not moving from shot to shot. The first M1 I bought from the CMP had to have the gas cylinder peened, before I peened the gas cylinder it shot 6" groups at 100yds. Peening the gas cylinder the groups shrank to 3" at 100yds.



Cool!




Oh man!!!!!!!!!

My non Garand knowin ass realized the loose cylinder would effect accuracy, but had thought to try this.

Man oh man, three little love taps last night, and she is as tight as a new born babys ass.




Thanks a million!


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