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Posted: 5/16/2005 12:24:26 PM EST
HI guys, got myself a m14 to play with my shooting buddys but I want to take care of my investment. How can you tell if you are shooting crosive ammo and how to you clean for this kind if ammo. I guess hopps 9 is not enough.

Thanks, Slug-O
Link Posted: 5/16/2005 12:27:32 PM EST
[Last Edit: 5/16/2005 12:28:44 PM EST by mppppp]
you need to use amonia to neutralize the salts in corrosive ammo - once done shooting run some patches with the amonia solution (dilute the amonia with water) through it and it will be fine until you get it home to give a proper cleaning.

edit: most modern ammo is non-corrosive and i have never found any 7.62 nato ammo that wasn't non-corrosive (how about that for a double negative?)
Link Posted: 5/16/2005 12:28:19 PM EST
[Last Edit: 5/16/2005 12:28:47 PM EST by hk940]
if your shooting "new" ammo. federal, remington. lake city etc. it will be non c.

if your shooting ANY surplus ammo. assume it to be CROSIVE even if it is sold as non c.

it's not bad to shoot it. you just need to clean the gun after you do.
Link Posted: 5/16/2005 12:47:31 PM EST
When you have a 20 round mag. you cant shoot for that long if you dont shoot surplus.So you are saying that running a bore brush with ammona will do the trick to start with. You make this out loke it is the plague and it starts eatting the barrell imedeatly? or does it?

Link Posted: 5/16/2005 12:50:54 PM EST
Link Posted: 5/16/2005 5:18:23 PM EST
Chinese and Czech 7.62X51 NATO is corrosive. Chinese sometimes has counterfeit British markings: RG 69 L2A2 and NATO circle with cross inside. Czech ammo has dark blue primers.

I have used WD40 to neturalize the corrosive residue with great success. Be sure to wipe-out the gas cylinder/piston/plug with it but do not leave any in it. Also, do not leave it or any other cleaner/oil in a chrome lined chamber as it will cause faliures to extract!
Link Posted: 5/16/2005 6:03:54 PM EST
so what does it do the the barrell. Pit?

Link Posted: 5/17/2005 3:40:33 AM EST
well if you clean it after you shoot it nothing.
if you don't inside 24hrs it turns the fouling into brown mud.
in a week after you clean it you can see the barrel looks mat instead of shiny. you can still restore it at this point.
after a few weeks the pitting gets so bad it forms tiny little craters. but you can still clean it and stop the damage from continuing.

the more craters the less accuracy.
Link Posted: 5/17/2005 4:33:43 AM EST
FWIW - Any foreign ammo from third world nations is suspect to me. Cleaning: You have to use a water based solution (think black powder here) to neutalize the corrosive salts - last time I checked WD40 did not have much water in it nor does any of the CLP type gun care products including my personal favorite for aroma only - Hoppes 9. I prefer not to use a corrosive ammo in my 308 but to each his/her own.
Link Posted: 5/17/2005 4:53:15 AM EST
Any window cleaner like Windex so long as it has ammonia. Bring it with you and right after shooting while the barrel is still warm spray several patches with the Windex and run them through until they are no longer nasty black.

Follow this with a dry one and CLP or WD-40 until you get home. From here you can use soap and water cleaning if you want.

I just run a bore snake with more Windex, followed with CLP.
This method has worked well for my WWII German Mauser. As always keep a good eye on the condition of the barrel and adjust your cleaning time as necessary.
Link Posted: 5/18/2005 6:38:55 AM EST
Hot water and soap is always the best way to clean corrosive salts. It was used for years and it still works today. The military used to do it for 3 days to make sure you get it all as barrels will "sweat" these salts even after a good cleaning!
Link Posted: 5/20/2005 12:19:24 AM EST

Main Entry: cor·ro·sive
Function: adjective
1 : tending or having the power to corrode <corrosive acids> <corrosive action> <the corrosive effects of alcoholism>
2 : bitingly sarcastic <corrosive satire>
- corrosive noun

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