OK, this came up in another thread, so I am posting instructions here.
I just got a Remington 870 Express HD. I like everything about the gun except that the forend extends too far back, such that it would hit a 6-shell SideSaddle. Spare ammo is everything in a fighting shotgun, and I don't see compromising with a shorty 4-shell SideSaddle as a good alternative. Neither did I want to dump more $$$ into a replacement forend.
Its
Dremel Time.
The modified forend works great, and looks just like it came from the factory this way:
Actually, this was an incredibly straight forward modification. Here is what I did:
1) Check the shotgun is empty (duh). Check again.
2) Pump the action all the way to the rearmost open position.
3) Offer up the SideSaddle to the receiver, and mark the forend (e.g. with a Sharpie marker) with a "cut here" line to show the excess material to be removed. You want to err a little on the tight side, as you will be removing about another 1/8" of additional material to clean up the cut.
4) Remove the forend per the field strip instructions in the manual. Set the rest of the shotgun to one side, far away enough that it will not get dirty - you are going to make a mess in the next few steps.
5) Cut carefully along the "cut here" lines, starting at the edge of the forend, using a Dremel and a cutting tool like this:
Actually, mine did not cut deep enough, so I had to follow up with a regular Dremel cutting wheel, but this made a bit more mess as it melts the plastic rather than cutting it. Hand tools can also be used if you like doing things the hard way.
6) Clean off all the plastic swarf, then offer up the forend the the receiver, this time with the SideSaddle properly installed and with shells placed in the SideSaddle. Make a note of any fine adjustments required to get good clearance.
7) Now you are going to clean up the cut edges:
a) Use a round file to radius the corner between the horizontal and vertical cuts.
b) Use a box cutter blade, held perfectly perpendicular to the cuts, to
scrape the flat areas lengthwise. You want to scrape, not cut, so as to smooth and level the surface.
c) Use a flat file to clean up any uneven areas. Radius the edges.
d) Scrape again with the blade to get a nice radiused edge along the length of the cuts.
e) Offer the forend up one last time to confirm everything looks as you would like.
f) Finish up with some fine emery cloth (works better wet).
8) After all the cutting and filing, the plastic will have formed a lot of fine burrs and fibres, which cause it to have a lighter "dry" appearance. To get the cut edge to properly match the original factory finish, use a butane lighter to gently heat the cut edge. Be careful not to set fire to the plastic... you are just looking to reflow the cut surface to create a finish that matches the original surface.
Thats it ! Post here if you have any questions, or if my clumsy description needs clarification.