Let me start this by stating that I am not a gunsmith.  Additionally this is not a how to, it is meerly documentation of what I did.  Anything you do to your upper is on you.  That being said, I talked with Chris a couple of times and he said there should be no problem with what I was planning to do.  Finally, I have yet to fire it so I could just as easily blow myself up.  
I tried a couple of lowers to get one that fit closest and the pins went in tight, but not too tight.  The differences in the diferent lowers was substantial.  These differencs are what made me have to do this.  Chris said many brands of lower (he mentioned DPMS in particular) drop on with no issues
I used a varity of tools around my shop, but this is what I ended up actually being successful with: scotch brite type abrasive pad, sand paper, dremel with drum, cordless drill, 1/2" or smaller wood paddle bit. Caliper is totally optional.


I removed the buffer tube, beveled the edge very shallow with the dremmel, then rolled up the abrasive pad and stuffed it into the buffer tube.  Put the bit in the middle on the drill and spun it to smooth it out the whole length of the tube. Got it smooth and shiny.




The tolerances between the bolt tube and reciever are really tight, so I sanded the bolt tube with 220 then took the abrasive pad to it, just twisting it in my hand to smooth it out. this may have reduced it's diamater, but mostly just smoothed it out.



Now I took out the bolt and put the lower back on the upper.  I felt in where they met to determine where it was out of alignment.  For mine the buffer tube was slightly off center to the left.  So, i smoother out that side of the buffer tube really well and started on the upper.  I used the demmel "paddle wheel" sanding bit and applied slightly more pressure to the side that was opposite of the catching buffer tube to open it up that way.  






As I did this, I put it together, tried it and took it apart again until it got about how I wanted it.

Then I used the abrasive pad and the drill bit again to polish it all smooth and shiny.





That was all I did and now it is much smoother and I recon with use it will only get smoother.

Then paint the handguards to match the rest and back in the safe.





Oh yea, and paint the markings to show off the cool ser #

Thanks for the good intell,maybe when I get mine in a couple of weeks some of this will help me out as well

Nice write up Bond, James Bond. LOL   Ya, saw that SN and just could not resist. Seriously, thanks for the write up. Might come in handy  when I order mine. It sucks, but there has been a bad turn of events at work and we are on probation with our customer. Lets just say that there are so many hoops one has to jump through when you are a government and Aerospace supplier. So, I am either saving for a nest egg in case things fall through. Or I am saving for a nice Bohica upper and scope. Will know next May or June. Maybe I can find out what the waiting time looks like and put in my name so that it will be ready when things settle down at work.

Guns are a good investment.  Especially stuff like this. My buddy had his as a display on his bench at a gunshow this weekend got offered $1300 for it on the spot.   Go for it, then sell in if times get tough.  I wouldn't bet on these foing for less than MSRP for a while.

Nice job

Quoted: Nice job

+1 Very

Are you planning on running the ATN when you get range time

Im curious how long the ATN will hold up to the 50 recoil

Quoted: Are you planning on running the ATN when you get range time Im curious how long the ATN will hold up to the 50 recoil

I am thinking about it.  I called ATN and they said it should hold up fine and be warrantied if any issue.  The BDC is not for 50 though and I currently have it's twin (I have 4 different ATN scopes) on the EE as WTS/WTT.  I'll at least keep it for the 308 when I get around to shooting this.  

Quoted: Guns are a good investment.  Especially stuff like this. My buddy had his as a display on his bench at a gunshow this weekend got offered $1300 for it on the spot.   Go for it, then sell in if times get tough.  I wouldn't bet on these foing for less than MSRP for a while.

Just to clarify, was this the whole upper and lower? Or are you only speaking of the upper? Sounds like a good case to make with the wife.

Thanks for the tip. Even if I put in an order now. Might not be till after the first of the year before it would be ready..

That was for the upper only.  Cash and Carry here in CA for a 30"  50DTC.

Good luck though, my wife knows that once it's in the safe it stays there unless it is to fund another gun purchase.  It's hard enough getting money from her to buy guns in the first place!!

Sorry, but I am meerly a messenger.  The evil lurks deep in your own soul.  
This has been no kidding, about a 7 year fight with my wife.  I have been asking for a 50 since I first saw the SERBU BFG 50.

Quoted: You convinced me! Sent email to Chris about an hour ago. I have just a bit over half of the amount needed. Like I said, I dont expect it would be ready till after the first of the year anyway. Dang, getting wood just thinking about owning a 50. Good thing you live out of state. Cause I am going to tell the wife you are to blame for me ordering mine. LOL

And here's your proof!!!

www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=81124542

Got a pic of the bolt side of the rifle

Quoted: Hey Vepr- Nice looking rifle.  I'm thinking of getting one of those magpul stocks too, how do you like it?  Mostly I'm worried about proper length of pull and getting a nice cheek weld at the right height for the scope. Thanks for the fluff 'n buff info too!

Magpul PRS is heavy, but the best and most adaptable stock I've ever had.  The onnly issue is recoil pads.  Chris (BOHICA) is making them, but he said it would be about $100.  In the meantime, I'm making a home made one.

These things are friggin sweet. By the time I get around to buying one they will be $5k!

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Quoted: These things are friggin sweet. By the time I get around to buying one they will be $5k! I wouldnt go that far LOL - get one now.. its only 1k

Quoted: Quoted: These things are friggin sweet. By the time I get around to buying one they will be $5k! I wouldnt go that far LOL - get one now.. its only 1k

Yeah, I was also holding off because of $$$, but I don't think you'll find a better deal.  I'm glad I bought mine.

FAR-50                                $1100
Ameetec complete lower        $200
TPS Rings                            $60    (brownells CR discount)
Super Sniper 16x                  $300
Complete rifle                      $1660


Tons of fudds asking you what the hell you're shooting: priceless



BTW, I highly recommend the tactical precision rings.  Very nice product at a great price.

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Quoted: height=8 Quoted: height=8 Quoted: These things are friggin sweet. By the time I get around to buying one they will be $5k! hat Yeah, I was also holding off because of $$$, but I don't think you'll find a better deal.  I'm glad I bought mine. FAR-50                                $1100 Ameetec complete lower        $200 TPS Rings                            $60    (brownells CR discount) Super Sniper 16x                  $300 Complete rifle                      $1660 Tons of fudds asking you what the hell you're shooting: priceless BTW, I highly recommend the tactical precision rings.  Very nice product at a great price. FOr the life of me, I could not get the damn upper to work right... on not 1, not 2, but 3 damn stag lowers. I polished up the bolt, tweaked the buffer tube... but the damn thing would still not slide back no matter what I did. I finally gave up on stag and used a CMMG and with the same amount of pressure as the others... was able to finally get things to work... I splurged on a scope thoughhat

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Quoted: height=8 Quoted: .... I splurged on a scope thoughhat Ahhh, but you're gonna love that Nightforce! I've got the 5.5-22x NXS w/NP-R2 reticle.... good shooting all the way out to 2000yds. Here's looking at a 3' target at 2k though one: www.daplane.com/50bmg/ds2006/spring/dss06_2ktgt72.jpg

I better for the price of those damn things had
Initially I was going to get that same one.. but with the NP-R1 reticle. I figured for another ~$100 Id just up to the 8-32. Did you get the 50 or the 56mm?

Ohhhh... to be able to shoot 2K yards..... how nice that would be he

Quoted: I better for the price of those damn things I had never seen or handeled one in person, and was trying to find one local to check out - no joy. Initially I was going to get that same one.. but with the NP-R1 reticle. I figured for another ~$100 Id just up to the 8-32. Did you get the 50 or the 56mm? Ohhhh... to be able to shoot 2K yards..... how nice that would be . Are you all the way up to 22x in that photo?? After seeing that.. I might have gone overboard hahaha

Yes, mine is the 56mm version, and the pic's is dialed up to 22x. (that pic is from a friends 5.5-22x on his Windrunner at one of our Desert Shoots.  I still don't know how he gets those photos with his camera.  Mine are always blurry...)

Anyone interested in these scopes can see their specs at:
www.nightforceoptics.com/

Mine's taken the proverbial lickin' and kept on tickin'.  I'm very happy with it.

//Ben

I got the sn# following yours. Let me know if it comes up for sale

Still trying to get mine to work. Had to file the disconnector on my trigger & going to radius the buffer tube tonight. (Need to get a new Dremel.)  I could NOT get the bolt to budge on mine.  Brand new bushmaster A2 Assembly. Thier buffer tube does look a little thicker than the DPMS tube that I threw out a couple months ago because I never would need it

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Quoted: I got the sn# following yours. Let me know if it comes up for saleHad

What lower are you trying to put it on?
I did all the little tips and tricks to get mine to work, but it just would not budge on 3 different stag lowers. I swapped it to another brand.. and the bolt slid back nice and tight into the buffer

I had a Rock River that wouldn't budge.  Chris said the DPMS's he has are perfect fits.  We can't buy them in CA.

I am trying to use a brand new stag lower, I dremeled the piss out of the buffer tube last night, did a nice job the first time around, even polished the inside. Assembled the gun. still does not work. doesn't look like stag works w/ these. ANYONE have one on a stag?

I hate to buy another lower but that's what it looks like I will have to do.

I then reeealy went to town w/ the dremel took the buffer down to paper thin thickness in some areas. still did not work.

SO, who has the best deal on dpms lowers?

I too have tried a stag lower on my Bohica upper with no luck.  I took the buffer tube off the lower and just tried to slide the bolt into it and it fit fine, in fact it fit kind of loose. I also checked the tube to see if it was straight and there are no problems there either.  I think the problem with the stag lowers is the pins are really tight.  Just to get the back pin to seat I had to push down on the upper and flex the lower a good 1/4", then tap the pin in with a nylon mallet.  I was able to get the bolt to slide back with a little persuasion, but then the bolt was stuck and I needed to tap the bolt forward with the mallet to get it back into battery, not really optimal.  Also once the bolt was in battery the hammer would not fall completely.  It would go about half way then stop.  I fiddled around with it a bit and it seems the flexing of the lower was causing this.  Once I pulled the back pin and relieved the stress, the hammer would fall fine.  I'm glad I read these posts before I went nuts or bugged Chris.  I'll use the stag lower on another rifle, this gives me a reason to get another rifle.  he
Other DPMS has anyone else had any "drop in" installs?  If DPMS is the best fit, I'll go with them.

My hammer would also only go up partway.  Grind off the disconnector lug & it will work fine.

As for the buffer tube, chris has offered to shave .020 off the bolt body.

I did order another buffer tube from model 1 sales. This was reccomended by chris in an earlier post. If that doesn't work I will probably have him trim up the bolt a little.

I hate to change the lower BECAUSE of the tight fitting pins.

If I grind off the disconnector lug couldn't the lower potentialy slam fire if I were to put a normal upper on it?  Even though I plan to have a dedicated lower for the FAR I don't want to have something that could be construed at as a modified full auto weapon, especially not in my state, NJ. The cops here are just itching to charge anyone with a weapon violation.   I would prefer to try to keep the internals the same if possible.  I am hunting now for a DPMS lower.  I just missed a big show in my area last week.  The next one is not until November so I may have to pay retail.  

Chewbacca72

Don't grind off the disconnector notch! -

The lug they are refering to is found on the right side of the hammer, I belive it interfaces with the 3 rnd burst pack on a M-16 but don't know for sure.

None of the other hammers I've used have this lug, so I don't THINK you'd be in any type of violation by removing it. However if you're worried about it, buy a notched hammer from Model 1 sales for $9 and  swap it out after radiusing the top edge as shown in the manual.

Let me know if you have more?????/

Chris Rosequist
Bohica Arms Corp

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Quoted: I had a Rock River that wouldn't budge.  Chris said the DPMS's he has are perfect fits.  We can't buy them in CA.

You can still buy DPMS lowers in CA - they are still OLL's. The only one listed is the "Panther (all)". There are - I believe - 3 other non listed DMPS lowers you could pick up.

Chris,

Thanks, that cleared up the confusion.  The picture in the Manual was not really that clear, but now I know the lug that you're referring to.  I always wondered what that little bit of metal was there for.  I typically use DPMS Lower Parts Kits and I see the lug you are referring to.  I am still planning to get a DPMS lower for this upper, the stag is just too tight for me. I'll plan on grinding down the lug on the hammer I end up using.

Oops, not the disconector. Chris is right it's the triangular peice of metal on the side of the trigger.  The hammer In my colt H-bar does not have this & it has the rounded hammer, the other AR I built has the notched hammer (STAG I think.) Notch in the hammer but also no piece on the side.

Can anyone post a picture of what I'm talking about to avoid confusion?

I did find a DPMS lower & the fit is dramaticlly different. I did also have to radius the side of the hammer as well as the side of the bolt & it now works well.

The only problem is that I now have a spare stag lower that needs something built on it.

It's together. Had to dissasemble & take a little more off the hammer, was dragging to much. Mounted a set of Burris xtreme rings (six screw) & a 10x super sniper.

Anyone use these rings? Directions say the crossbolt goes to the left but it looks like the opposite should be true. Anyway, it is finally done & will get shot this weekend. Turned into a pretty nice rifle.

1.) Do not use a stag lower.
2.) The dremel is your friend

Anyone have any opinions on  the super sniper? I have a 3.5x15 x 50 Nightforce but that is earmarked for the .308 I'm working on.  Went the cheap rout based on some good reviews. ANyone have any real experience w/ the super sniper?

Frigid,

What height Burris rings did you end up needing to use?  I was also planning to use their tactical rings on my FAR upper.  

As for the Super Sniper, I have had a SS 20X on my Serbu 50 BFG since I got it, and it has held up fine.  Mine is one of the older scopes, from when they still had the Tasco name on them.  If I had to do it over again, I would have opted for the 10X instead of the 20X.  20 seems to be too much magnification at ranges under 300 yards, which is max in my area.  On the BFG, I used Badger Rings, since they were the only real option at the time.  My BFG is one of the earlier models, low 2 digit SN, without the updated muzzle break design.  It does kick a little more the other BFGs but not so much that it spurred me on to spend the extra $$ for the updated MB.  So far the scope and rings have been rock solid and I have thrown some pretty stiff loads down the barrel.  I had some Dominican Republic stuff that literally caused the bolt to lock up and the primers to fall out, probably close to proof loads if not over.  I only shot 3 rounds of that stuff, but if the scope held up to that it gets my approval.  

I do believe I used mediums, I called SWFA & they said they would work. They are the experts on the supersniper. (I can't remember for sure so you better call before ordering)  The scope sits real close to the rail, w/ scope covers on I have clearance, but not much. I had put on a bell & carlson adj. cheekpiece but ended up adjusting it down tight to the a2 stock, probably end up taking it off.

The burris rings need tightened to a specific torque,  20 lbs on the screws & 65 to 100 on the cross bolt and they are directional, the nut goes on the left (or behind the trigger).

The super snipers they are selling now are the same as the old ones (supposedly) they had a bad run there for awhile. Now they are built using the original specs. Mine still had the tasco & warranty card in the box.