What I can recommend here is to buy your silver braze from Brownell's.
Depending on how close the ramp fits the barrel, you can use:
STL 1205, #322-100-650. Which melts at 1145 and is for tight fitted parts.
STL 1260, #322-120-650. Which melts at 1220 and is for ramps that don't fit tight.
This comes in a pre-mixed paste.
If the barrel support ring or ANY other parts of the barrel are close to where you'll attach the sight, use heat control paste and heat-sinks to protect them or they may come loose from heat spread.
Use enough torch.
You want to heat the barrel and base both, as fast as you can, to prevent head-spread.
The tough part is getting the base located SQUARELY on top of the barrel.
I've looked at them for hours, and they still come out off-set to one side.
One trick I've used is to hang a heavy weight, like an old copper soldering iron or something else heavy but with a narrow "point" from the ceiling.
Allow the "pointy" end to rest on the base, but with not much slack.
This will work as a clamp to hold the base in position, and prevent everything from falling apart when the solder melts.
When the braze does melt and flow, the weight presses it in place insuring a tight bond.
The narrow end resting on the sight base prevents the weight from wicking the heat up into it.
Once you've got it brazed, let air cool, NO quenching in water.
After it's cool, scrub down with HOT water, soap and a brush. Inside the bore too.
Then clean up excess flux and solder with wire brushes and needle files.
Use steel wool or some strips of synthetic "Scotch-Brite" pads wrapped around a worn shotgun brush and chucked in an electric drill to polish the bore back up. Run the drill at medium speed and keep it moving up and down the bore.
I recommend shooting it with full-power buck or slugs to "test" the bond before coating it with a new finish.
Good luck, and post a picture of it when it's done.