I had the opportunity to pull down a couple hundred rounds of 300blk that I want to reload with a different powder. The directions didn't really work for me....or I just didn't read them

Forgive me if this has already been covered somewhere else or something everyone already figured out except me , but in case someone hasn't here is what I found worked best for me.

Loading the round from the bottom into the collet, it snaps right in.



Once the bullet drops out, push the case out through the top and it slips right through. I was pulling it out the same way it went in and it was a struggle keeping the 3 pieces of the collet together with the o-ring. Only took me a hundred plus rounds to figure this out.



Then I just dumped the powder and bullet back in the powder measure to separate the two without handling either. Adjusted the powder measure to max and dumped the powder back into the can using a funnel, then dumped the separated bullets out.



Banging the puller on a block of wood didn't do squat, but folding an old tee shirt on the vise and tapping 4-5 times dropped the bullet without much effort. Just kept a limp wrist so the puller would bounce up on each strike. Some powder will still bounce out through the gaps in the collet.



I bet others have found better, easier methods with pulling bullets.... it was my first experience with this tool.

That type of tool sucks. If you need to pull more than one bullet try this.





hornady-cam-lock-bullet-puller

I have both of those and prefer the hammer.

The hornady has some issues with pulling softer cast bullets. At least for me.

Forget kinetic. Can pull bullets much faster and easier with the Hornady or RCBS collet lock pullers.

Mine broke after about 20 cartridges

On a side note, I'd advise putting a half of a foam earplug in the tip to prevent possibly damaging any bullets.

I've pulled more than my fair share of of bullets over the years using both the FA and the RCBS kenetic pullers.

I like the foam ear plug idea though. Thanks!

I do not use the collet with o ring, I use a normal shell holder in its place ir is a little faster and works just as good.

I'll have to check on this one. Have a bunch of wooden bullets in 308 I wouldn't mind pulling and the kinetic definitely won't work on those. They are considered blanks...

There have been reports that using a kinetic puller and a shell holder can cause a detonation. I have no idea how but people are claiming it. I like the kinetic but upgraded to the RCBS collet puller as it was easier.

Lol, what?
Start a new thread and tell us about them.

Got a link for those reports?

I can't see any way a shellholder would cause a detonation, especially in light of the hole on the center... where a priming ram would go through.

A short piece of 2x lumber on a concrete floor works well.
Hit the end grain.
Anything hard can deform the plastic and lead to breakage.

Hitting it on just a block of wood does not work. The grain moves to much out of the way, not very solid. It needs to be hit on the end grain of a,block of wood such as a 4x4 or 6x6. Works much better this way. Much more dense. I did a crimped.223 in 3 mild strikes.

Ive been striking mine on a 1-3/4" piece of solid oak for the past 10yrs.
I must have the stars aligned because ive never set off a primer or had a crimp I couldnt pull.

I was thinking pine or for. Don't have oak around here, but I have worked with in the past, a lot harder. I use a pressure treated 6x6 or a piece of firewood.

I have an RCBS kinetic puller, and use the flat anvil area on my bench vise to liberate bullets. In the past I've also used a concrete cinder block and a 10" section of railroad rail that was used as an anvil.

Not really looking to spend extra money I'll be playing whackamole with my Frankford Puller tonight. I have about 50 9's I need to pull that were too fat to chamber in my pistol (run .358 Cast Boolits and some brass doesn't like them).