Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login

Site Notices
12/6/2019 7:27:02 PM
Posted: 5/25/2008 2:04:40 PM EST
[Last Edit: 5/25/2008 2:41:43 PM EST by Corporal_Chaos]
Hi guys,

I'm loading up my first batch of 9mm (first batch of anything actually), and I have a few questions. I have my cases resized and primed, and am in the process of trying to bell the mouths for bullet seating. How much bell should I put on the cases? Also, is there an easier way of adjusting bullet seating depth on Lee Deluxe Pistol Die Sets? Unless I misunderstood the directions, it appears like the initial seating to check depth is more of a guesstimation than anything. Once the bullet is seated, is it normal for the case to appear bulged where the bullet sits below the case mouth (I have not yet applied the crimp)?

About my load, I'm using 115gr Montana Gold FMJ's with Remington cases, CCI 500 small pistol primers, and Unique powder. My target COL is 1.100". Would 5.2 grs. be a good starting load here? The loads are for an unmodified Glock 17.

Thanks for any help. I would really like to get this resolved so I don't destroy anymore cases making dummy rounds.


ETA: If I chamfer the case mouths and just put a very slight bell on them, can I I use the bullet to open the case up more during the seating operation? Then just seat to my desired COL and add my crimp?
Link Posted: 5/25/2008 5:53:21 PM EST
[Last Edit: 5/25/2008 6:11:09 PM EST by skeptic]
ETA: If I chamfer the case mouths and just put a very slight bell on them, can I I use the bullet to open the case up more during the seating operation? Then just seat to my desired COL and add my crimp?
You're on the right track Dont worry about chamfering those cases. Good Idea but unnecessary.

The goal is to beable to set the bullet on the case and it not tip over while you are seating. The less the bell the better as the casemouth will weaken quicker due to working the brass. On lead bullets a little more bell is recommended but in any event less is better.

I dont have data at hand so in regards to your charge all I will say is the standard...Follow published data and work up from a mid load.

I forget what Lee says but I just screw my die down till I touch the raised shell holder and back the die out at least 3-4 turns (beause I use a FCD). I recommend using one die for seating and another die for crimping. Otherwise follow Lees directions for the seat/crimp operation.

When I seat my first bullet I just back the adjusting knob out and rais the ram with bullet on case and adjust the knob till it touches the bullet and go from there. IMO I like to load longer OAL. Those COAL in the Books are minimums but I find better accuracy in longer OAL as long as they feed and function properly.

What is your Data Reference? If you dont already have one a Kinetic puller should be on you got to have list.

Good luck
skeptic

Link Posted: 5/26/2008 11:34:46 AM EST
[Last Edit: 5/26/2008 11:35:38 AM EST by panther308]
I also load 9mm but use Hogdon TG @ 4.1g woth a 124g Win and a OAL of 1.135 they work well in my XDSC 9
As far as the bell you want as little as possible the bullet just has to sit in the top as posted in regard to the crimp you really don't crimp a 9 as you may create high pressure if to much is applied all you want to do is take the bell out that you put in to seat the bullet the 9mm is headspaced off the case mouth.
They will be buldged when complete and is quite normal from what I have been told and ALWAYS STAY IN RANGE ON LOAD DATA

Be Safe
Link Posted: 5/26/2008 11:43:12 AM EST
[Last Edit: 5/26/2008 11:48:02 AM EST by ma96782]
Re-loading Die Adjustments


www.chuckhawks.com/adjust_reloading_dies.htm

Hint: Keep some factory rounds............so, you can do comparison measurements........and, use them to HELP set die adjustments.

Taper crimp with pistol rounds.
Roll crimp with revolver rounds.

More reading on "Crimps" for you........

www.exteriorballistics.com/reloadbasics/crimp.cfm

Line Drawing- crimps..........(Q. What is the difference between a roll crimp and a taper crimp?)

www.frfrogspad.com/miscellg.htm

Pic- .38 Special roll crimped vs. 45 ACP taper crimp (almost to the bottom of the page)......

www.surplusrifle.com/articles2008/frc_ataurus1911/index.asp



Aloha, Mark


Link Posted: 5/26/2008 12:29:05 PM EST
When I hear "bell" I am thinking cast lead bullets. With jacketed or plated bullets you really don't need any "bell" Might have to just kiss them if you are crushing a bunch of cases but with 9 generally not.
On setting your length start long ,you can then work your way shorter on the same round untill you get it where you want it. If you go too short it becomes junk
Link Posted: 5/26/2008 2:25:15 PM EST
I loaded a few Hornady and Berry's 124gr FP over 4.7gr of Unique at 1.055" OAL for testing purposes. They shot just fine in my USP, although N340 has less muzzle flash. I would assume you can use slightly more powder for the lighter bullet.
Link Posted: 6/3/2008 7:55:50 AM EST
Well, I test fired my first 98 rounds yesterday (crushed a few primers while learning to use my hand priming tool). I'm happy to report that they worked well and did not exhibit signs of high pressure. They seemed a little snappier than the commercial ammo I had been buying (Remington UMC value packs), but also more accurate.

Thanks for all the help!
Link Posted: 6/3/2008 4:58:06 PM EST
Welcome to the reloading club.
Top Top