About a week ago I was at the range with my FAL and it doubled on me. I had assumed it was me. I generally keep my trigger finger right at the reset point, and I was assuming that I was just tripping it again on recoil. It happened a couple more times, and I figured that it was just me.
I took it to the range again and it happened again. Thinking... This could be fun. I bump fired it a bit. But, didn't think to much of it.
Today, it happened again, then with a concerted effort to hold the trigger back away from the reset it happened. Then it tripled. Then it dumped the 5 rounds I had in the mag.
Things I've noted:
1 The firing pin dimples the primer every time the bolt slams home.
2 It stops after a few rounds when it leaves a "light strike" on the last round.
3 I've had a lot of "light strikes" that I had attributed to the ammo.
4 It has done it with Aussie, Portuguese, and Remington Hunting ammo that I've been trying out.
The gun is an Imbel, GI kit, built in part by ARS, in part by the gentleman I bought it from, with FSE trigger parts.
Where should I start to look diagnosing the problem? Could it be a broken firing pin?
Unfortunately just paying the tax stamp and enjoying it isn't an option.
I think some of the '02 FSE fcg's had this problem. Check to see what year they were made and go from there.
The fact that its dimpling the primers bothers me. If the hammer is not riding the bolt forward, this shouldn't be happening. Take the firing pin out and see if you can see any obvious problems. Clean out the flash hole as well.
I had a recent experience where a guy had an L1A1 that was essentially full auto. It would continue to fire for as long as he held the trigger down. No, it was not a sear cut receiver. We ordered a new HTS set, but when we took the old set apart, we noticed that the sear plunger was missing. I canabalized one of my guns of its plunger and installed his original HTS set. Problem cured. It seems there just wasn't enough tension on the sear to hold the hammer when the bolt carrier slammed into battery.
Well, I took her apart for an inspection. The firing pin looks just fine and the spring seems to have ample pressure. The HTS is an FSE M2. I pulled the grip off and while the trigger plunger seems to stick out further than the "properly" relieved version in you picture, it doesn't stick out as far as the other. I noted that the sear notch on the hammer seems quite worn. The engagement surface for the sear is somewhat rounded. Next, I pulled out the Locking plate for the hammer axis pin, which seemed somewhat peened on the surface that catches teh hammer on forward movement (I don't see this as being an issue). Next, I pulled out the sear, and the engagement surface on the sear seem to be just fine. The only wear on the sear itself was on the upper surface where it rotates against the rounded end of the hammer. All else seemed to be just fine.
Upon reassembling the rifle I decided to play with the trigger a bit. I pulled the trigger, then cycled the action holding the trigger back. After a couple of cycles, the sear started to trip as the trigger moved forward over the reset point!!!
So what would allow the sear to trip as it moves forward like this?
Should I just order a new HTS? I have enough US parts that if I add a US buttstock, I could replace all three with imported parts.
Alternatively, I could order a DSA set or an Enterprise set? And eventually put that Izzy handguard that I wanted. (I've got a VOW handguard, but the halves don't mate properly)
I've heard a fair amount of dissatisfaction with the DSA set, are the Enterprise parts worthwhile?
Do the FSE/ DSA/ Enterprise parts interchange with Imbel/Izzy/etc. parts well enough that I could just swap out one or two of them for the current parts? Keeping my parts count high enough that I could eventually play with the furniture?
Which option would you choose:
1.) I've found a few sources of Isreali HTS parts. Since I have 6 compliance parts without the HTS (no muzzle device) I could just swap them out. Or, I could see if the a combination of Izzy parts would work with the FSE that I have and have room to swap out the handguard for the one I'd like to put on it.
2.) Alternatively, I could order a the Hammer and Sear from Enterprise and a STG (or Isreali if it'd work) import trigger from someone else, and put on my handguard. (priciest option)
3.) I could just order a DSA set, keep my fingers crossed that they work nice, and put on my HG.
4.) Does anyone know of a US made trigger guard and does that count as a "trigger housing?" If so, then I could just by the import HTS and trade the trigger guard for the handguard.
If you have enough part that you don't need a US HTS, do it. You have the old style FSE set and until a few months ago, you could easily exchange them with FSE. Harold Shinn was easy to find and never gave any hassle with this exhange. Lately, he has been impossible to track down by all accounts.
I haven't heard anything good about Entreprise's set. DSA makes a great quality set, but they tend to have a horrible trigger pull. It will work though.
DSA has a trigger guard, but its not considered the trigger housing. DSA makes one of those too, but its $100. It is aluminum and makes for a VERY nicely balanced rifle. I own a couple of them and really like what it does for the rifle.
I hope this helps.
Hey, I have the HTS parts I yanked from my Belgian kit when I replaced them with FSE parts, if you want them just to see if they will help IM me your address and I'll ship them off to you.