Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login

Site Notices
12/11/2018 1:58:31 AM
Posted: 11/29/2018 9:17:32 PM EST
OK, As much as I love the thought of a Tactical Mini-14 (though with a brake instead of a flash hider because I am still in Commiefornia), my dream Mini-14 was the standard 186 series I bought. With its 1/7 twist barrel, it maximizes the Mini's potential with the 77 grain OTMBT MK262 MOD1 ammo so poplar with Spec Ops in the sandbox. The tactical only has a 1/9 twist. the 77s do OK to 100, but start to loose it at 200 with the 1/9 twist,

The front portion of the Mini-14 barrel is about .510", just a tad too large to thread 1/2x28 without turning it down. The rest of the barrel in front of the barrel in front of the sight is 9/16". I thought of threading it 9/16x24, but really couldn't find a satisfactory brake or flash hider.

With that in mind, I carefully used a file to file down about .010" off the muzzle end, and pushed the ridge back about an 1/16" while I was at it. Then, using a TAT and die from CNC Warrior, I threaded the front 3/8" 1/2x28.

I have a Wilson Combat Comp brake for Commiefornia, and a Palmetto A2 flash hider for free America. Because I could not use crush washer because of the short threaded part, I drilled and tapped the bottom of each 6x32, and installed a 6/32 set screw, engaging a matching dimple in the barrel.

Link Posted: 11/29/2018 9:43:09 PM EST
Well done! I love my AR, but my 197 mini is still the rifle I keep under my bed.
Link Posted: 11/29/2018 10:14:47 PM EST
Yep, I have three AR15s, but my Mini-14 loaded with MK262 MOD1 is my Home/Ranch defensive carbine. I am confident it can whack any Goblin, Troll, Zombie, Maladroit, Coyote, Mountain Lion, or Raving Insurrectionist that may need a "Social re-Adjustment"!
Link Posted: 11/29/2018 10:44:23 PM EST
Thanks. The sight is from a 583 series. At .562" ID, it was a direct replacement for the 186's terrible ramp front sight. Slid right on with minor fitting and used the same roll pin and groove as the ramp one, though it sits back a little more.
Link Posted: 11/30/2018 11:52:00 AM EST
It is all about patience and the right tools. I have thread half a dozen Saiga barrels through the years, and they have TUFF steel! (I think they melted down the German tanks left behind to use on their barrels!). The CNC Warrior die and TAT (thread alignment tool) made it easy, once I filed down. Used a fairly fine file, and did it very slowly and evenly.

One trick is to use a small hose clamp around the barrel as a stop and the keep a straight line. Do 180 degrees cut back, then rotate the clamp 180 degrees and do the other side. That gives you a clean, even edge. (Old Saiga barrel shroud cutting trick).
Link Posted: 11/30/2018 9:55:33 PM EST
[Last Edit: 12/1/2018 11:52:47 AM EST by imarangemaster]
I decided I wanted more thread. I took off the brake, and used a small clamp as a collar to keep the file or grinder from going too far up the barrel. I made an area wide enough to give slightly more than 1/2" threaded area, instead of the 1/4" I had. The clamp is a trick I used for cutting a straight line around Saiga barrel shrouds.

I clamped it on, and started with a flat file to start reducing from .562" to .5". You do half the barrel (the clamp screw assembly prevents you from doing all the way around), then rotate the clamp 180 degrees and do the other side. After starting with the flat file, I transition to a round Dremel stone, then switched to a sanding drum with a 1/2" drum. I used a 1/2" shaft collar as a gauge. The hose clamp gave me a perfect symmetrical shoulder.

Once the additional barrel area was 1/2". I resumed threading. I ended up with slightly more than 1/2" threaded as desired. No worry now about the 50,000 PSI shock wave pushing the muzzle brake off.
Link Posted: 12/2/2018 4:09:35 PM EST
[Last Edit: 12/2/2018 5:32:10 PM EST by imarangemaster]
Picture of hose clamp in place to use as a guide. I actually ended up with a tad over 7/16" and a tad less than 1/2" threaded for the flash hider or brake.

1) start with flat file
2) smooth out with Dremel stone
3) Use emory sanding wheel to finish.

Link Posted: 12/2/2018 9:00:37 PM EST
I used the CNC Warrior annular cutter tool. It works great and guide rod holds it centered - comes out perfect for threading.


Top Top