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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 1/14/2002 2:53:48 PM EST
I have a Mossberg model 88 maverick with a ridiculously long barrel. I originally bought it to have a good bird gun but a pump is too slow so I bought a good semi. What I want to do is to cut down the barrel of the mossberg for a home defense scatter gun. If anyone has a method for doing this with a industrial pipe threaded/cutter or just a plain pipe cutter I would appreciate it. Also, are there are restrictions other than 16" barrel and 28" overall? Thank you in advance

Link Posted: 1/14/2002 2:55:02 PM EST
[Last Edit: 1/14/2002 3:04:36 PM EST by AR_in_the_woods]
Rifles are 16" minimun, shotguns are 18" and 26" OAL. I'd suggest 18 1/4" minimum measured from the boltface to end of barrel with the action closed.
Link Posted: 1/14/2002 2:57:51 PM EST
where do I make the barrel measurements from?
Link Posted: 1/14/2002 3:05:23 PM EST
The barrel is measured from the boltface when closed.

The Overall length is from the end of the barrel to the end of the stock. It shouldn't be a problem with most modern guns since there will always be an additional 8" beyond the closed boltface, especially with a stock on it.
Link Posted: 1/14/2002 3:13:51 PM EST
So close the bolt and drop a tape measure down the barrel and go about 18 1/4? sounds easy. How about methods to cut it down myself?

Link Posted: 1/14/2002 3:15:19 PM EST
The best way is to get a wooden dowl longer than the barrel. Close the bolt and stick it down the barrel then mark it where the barrel ends. Then measure from the other end up to where you want to cut it and mark the dowl again. Then you can just line up the top mark with the muzzle and the second mark will be where you want to cut and you can then mark the barrel.
Link Posted: 1/14/2002 3:20:08 PM EST
I would suggest if you are the least bit unsure of how close your cut'll be to leave an extra inch (19") Many Riot Shotguns are 20", so this wouldn't be a big deal. I am currently pondering how to enter the NFA market. As soon as I hear back about Incorporating, I might file a form 1 and cut mine down to 13" which is as far as I can cut it w/o going past the end of the slide. I might also consider a SB AR.
Link Posted: 1/14/2002 3:46:52 PM EST
[Last Edit: 1/14/2002 3:48:22 PM EST by Gun Guru]
Use a pipe cutter. unless you have a cool radial saw. The pipe cutter will leave a bitchen edge on the barrel, file it off.
Link Posted: 1/14/2002 3:51:46 PM EST
GG, it will leave the edge on the inside right?
Link Posted: 1/14/2002 3:54:21 PM EST
How picky are you? I once cut a shotgun barrel down with a hacksaw. I was careful about it, then filed the rough edges, then blued the bare metal. I think I was 16, just made a project out of it and the results were just fine.

Link Posted: 1/14/2002 3:55:53 PM EST
I geuss I could put that set if ginsus I got for christmas to the test but I think the pipe cutter method will work just fine, thanks.

Link Posted: 1/14/2002 4:13:25 PM EST
I'v got a 500 so they are probebly different but on mine you can swap barrels by unthreading the barrel that way you could keep your old barrel and just by a 18.5" from mossberg. But be careful if you cut it ATF won't cut you any slack if you are even a 1/4" short you could be in trouble!
Link Posted: 1/14/2002 4:48:31 PM EST
It is too expensive to by the new barrel if they even make one

Link Posted: 1/14/2002 5:09:41 PM EST
[Last Edit: 1/14/2002 5:12:41 PM EST by Beachboy]
It can be done with a pipe cutter or a hacksaw, then dressed off with a file or a table or vertical sander. Be sure to go at least 18 1/2 inches FINISHED lenght, to allow for any questionable measuring devices. Take a dremel tool and appropriate metal grinding stone and put a light crown (bevel)on the muzzle after you square up everything. Have you thought about how you will replace the front bead? When I do these for people I use a lathe to cut and then to crown. Then a Forester jig to aline and drill and tap for the replacement bead. You can either cold blue the bare metal or hot blue the entire barrel or just leave it bright and shiny!
Might want to check with a nearby 'smith and see how much he will charge to do the work for you.
1911 greg has a very good point, remeber this it how it all started with Randy Weaver.
Link Posted: 1/14/2002 5:24:05 PM EST
From what I hear, 18 1/2 is the unofficial official "safe" length. If I line up the front site perfectly, can I use a tap and die to thread it or just drill a hole and jb it on? This is gonna be used mainly in low light home proctection so is a front bead really that necessary?

Link Posted: 1/14/2002 5:34:08 PM EST
No offense intended, but most "eyeball" jobs will be canted either right or left, those round surfaces can be tough sometimes. Best way is to drill and tap. You gotta drill the hole anyway, even to use good old JB weld.
A bead is very helpful (for me anyway) to index the gun, even in low light. I usually will put a large aluminum bead on them, something that you can pick up in a hurry.
Link Posted: 1/14/2002 5:45:24 PM EST

Would cutting a rifle barrel down pretty much be the same process?

Link Posted: 1/14/2002 5:50:45 PM EST
[Last Edit: 1/14/2002 6:24:52 PM EST by Beachboy]
With a rifle barrel you will definately want to use a lathe, perferably with a 4 jaw chuck to insure proper alinement and also to crown the muzzle after the shortening, so that the bullet will exit and release in an even manner, not tilted in any one direction. If not accuracy will go to heck.
Also is the majority of cases the barrel will need to be pulled from the receiver prior to the shortening / recrowning operation. It will then need to be re-installed adn the headspace verified. Sorry for the original short answer.
Link Posted: 1/14/2002 6:06:04 PM EST

Originally Posted By 1911greg:
But be careful if you cut it ATF won't cut you any slack if you are even a 1/4" short you could be in trouble!

Remember Randy Weaver?
Link Posted: 1/14/2002 6:10:47 PM EST

Originally Posted By keving67:
This is gonna be used mainly in low light home proctection so is a front bead really that necessary?

No, its not necessary. Just shoulder the shotgun normally with your cheek on the gun. Front beads break/fall off shotguns all the time. I shoot with some folks that never bothered replacing theirs and they hit the birds just fine.
Link Posted: 1/14/2002 6:13:28 PM EST
So now that I know what I am gonna do, what is the best home defense load?

Link Posted: 1/14/2002 6:33:41 PM EST
I use Handloads. I mix tacks, pellets, and .38 lead balls in a 3" Magnum Load. Ougtha do alot of damage. Slugs are also good.

A slug won't scatter and possibly damage stuff. On the other hand #000 will do alot of damage to the BG.
Link Posted: 1/14/2002 6:36:12 PM EST
Federal Tactical 00 or Winchester Ranger Low Recoil 00.
Link Posted: 1/14/2002 6:37:39 PM EST

Originally Posted By keving67:
So now that I know what I am gonna do, what is the best home defense load?


My favorites are 00 buck, 000 buck, or reduced velocity 1 oz slugs. I think the high velocity slugs are intended for 4 legged creatures.
Link Posted: 1/14/2002 6:39:17 PM EST
I hunt with deer slugs and I know that the recoil can be enormous. How would buck shot with a pistol grip compare to slugs?

Link Posted: 1/14/2002 6:44:34 PM EST
Buckshot is slightly less recoil than a slug. Slugs will make your arm hurt. So will Buck shot if you fire enough rounds.
Link Posted: 1/14/2002 6:57:13 PM EST
[Last Edit: 1/14/2002 7:01:17 PM EST by Ridge_runner]
Back to cutting that barrel you might want to take the taper of the barrel into consideration if your going to use a pipe cutter. It could make your barrel look threaded i.e run down the barrel because of the taper. Just a thought. Maybe some of these other guys thats done it before could verify this. Also on the ammo part I like #4 shot for close range or indoors.Then 00 buck and even farther distances slugs.
Link Posted: 1/14/2002 7:06:24 PM EST
I am thinking about using the foot pedal operated mechanical pipe threader that I have at work. I and just going to wrap the barrel real good to keep it from marring up the steel.

Link Posted: 1/14/2002 7:28:43 PM EST

Originally Posted By Gun Guru:
Use a pipe cutter. unless you have a cool radial saw. The pipe cutter will leave a bitchen edge on the barrel, file it off.

I say leave the edge. Bayonet? Fuck that! The edge will leave a nice mark when you do the twist and shout with it on someone's forehead.

Kinda like a hole saw - leave the burrs for extra bite.
Link Posted: 1/15/2002 1:41:30 PM EST
Federal #4 tactical buck is what I use.
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