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Posted: 7/18/2023 1:55:23 PM EST
[#1]
Just got the shipping notice, and the estore lists the serial as 5.9mil. From what I'm seeing on multiple sites, that makes it a late model Springfield, '55-57? Should be here tomorrow.
I'm 100% sure this is going to make me take a 3day weekend trip to Alabama to hand pick a couple field/service grades for originality/collector points. 
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MN, USA
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Posted: 7/19/2023 5:10:49 AM EST
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By johnny_dot_exe: Just got the shipping notice, and the estore lists the serial as 5.9mil. From what I'm seeing on multiple sites, that makes it a late model Springfield, '55-57? Should be here tomorrow. I'm 100% sure this is going to make me take a 3day weekend trip to Alabama to hand pick a couple field/service grades for originality/collector points. You're going to be in real trouble when the Columbia, MO location opens!!! |
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Posted: 7/19/2023 6:18:12 AM EST
[Last Edit: johnny_dot_exe]
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By THEdtw: You're going to be in real trouble when the Columbia, MO location opens!!!  Edit: This is all I could find about it. https://thecmp.org/potterfields-donate-jefferson-building-to-civilian-marksmanship-program/ Article doesn't say anything about it becoming a storefront for the surplus side, but that sure would be neat if it did. |
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Posted: 7/19/2023 4:16:01 PM EST
[Last Edit: johnny_dot_exe]
[#4]
It's here!
Before I get to the photos, I'll be completely honest here...my excitement wore off just a little bit as I got in to it. Some nasty brown oil showing at the top of the trigger was the giveaway. Field stripped it and found the whole left side plate of the trigger assembly covered in pitting and rust, and this is what was leaking down the trigger to the outside. Also noted some rust on the windage knob, tiny bit of damage to the outer ridges and rust starting to form on that, and some light damage on the very front/top of the stock. Perhaps I went in to the expert grade with higher expectations than I should have, but some of my fears were confirmed after seeing other recent reviews of what CMP has been sending out over the last year or so. Sign of the times I guess, these things aren't just laying around everywhere anymore. From what I've found so far, bear in mind this is my first Garand and I know little about them...receiver is 1956-ish SA receiver, WRA bolt, IHC hammer, I believe an SA trigger guard. Haven't really dug in to it much farther yet since I had to get back to work. Anyway, on to the terrible phone photos. https://imgur.com/a/Mq3sp5v            |
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Posted: 7/19/2023 4:29:06 PM EST
[#5]
I guess my question now is...chalk this up to the fact that stock is just getting lower every day, you get what you get, just clean it and be happy...or shoot them an email and maybe see about at least getting a new trigger housing?
It has minor pitting elsewhere, probably the worst of it on the rear sight base. In fact I expected, and would have been ok with, more pitting elsewhere, even the minor damage to the stock doesn't bother me because I bought this to be able to take it out to the range whenever I wanted. However, that whole side of the trigger housing being tore up that badly and covered in rust, and that rusty oil leaking down the trigger like it was, honestly a bit let down with this purchase. This and feedback around google from other recent buyers has definitely soured me on mail-in orders, not doing that again. |
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VA, USA
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Posted: 7/19/2023 5:39:20 PM EST
[#6]
Send them pictures. I had a trigger group that was rusted--though far less than yours. They quickly sent a better condition part with return instructions.
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Posted: 7/19/2023 5:54:25 PM EST
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By leadersound: Send them pictures. I had a trigger group that was rusted--though far less than yours. They quickly sent a better condition part with return instructions.
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OR, USA
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Posted: 7/19/2023 8:14:23 PM EST
[#8]
CMP turns out crap like this regularly now in all grades. Often when I see something posted they recently sold, it is a new low in quality I don’t think they can beat again. Then a little later someone posts something worse.
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WY, USA
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Posted: 7/19/2023 9:25:55 PM EST
[#9]
Call them.
Several years ago I ordered an HRA SG that came to me with a bent trigger housing and a stripped screw hole in the stock where the buttplate attached. I called them and explained what was wrong. They put an armorer on the phone and he said they'd take care of it. They sent me a shipping label and asked me to return the trigger group and the stock in the rifle case with the original shipping box. They sent me back a really nice trigger group and an extra WRA trigger guard for my troubles. They replaced the stock with a beautiful walnut SA/GAW piece that I actually ended up using on another rifle because it was so nice. Turn around from my shipping back to them to receipt was about 10 days. |
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Posted: 7/20/2023 7:33:13 AM EST
[#10]
I shot them an email about the trigger housing, we'll see what they say about it. Forgot to mention the windage knob, I'll just clean that up the best I can and maybe try to find a replacement.
Since the housing was pretty soaked in rusty oil I did wipe it down a bit, just to keep that nasty oil from getting all over everything else or getting to the stock. Haven't found any other big issues. Very faint pitting in a few areas, some significant pitting on the rear sight base that you can see in the photos above so I might see about swapping that out too. Op rod looks great, and so does the spring, just had some gunk on it, maybe old grease. Seems that none of the grease points are greased so I'll need to get that done. Tried to install an M5 bayo on it, won't lock in to place because the nub on the guard won't fit in to the gas plug, may just get an adjustable plug and hope that resolves the issue. Figured an M5 would be a good fit for a '56 Springfield. 
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WY, USA
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Posted: 7/20/2023 7:55:06 AM EST
[Last Edit: BigsWick]
[#11]
Consider changing all of the springs.
I've bought many Garands from the CMP over the years and have never received one, other than my CMP Special, that didn't need to have the springs changed out with fresh ones. Relatively cheap insurance and peace of mind. Motivation |
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USA
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Posted: 7/20/2023 8:10:41 AM EST
[#12]
At least the heavy pitting is on the replaceable parts.
Back in the day a new housing was $35-50 stripped when I was assembling. I bet they are over a $100 now but still replaceable. This is the results of the Philippine army storage system,......a metal warehouse shed that was hardly more than a garden shed that got hot like an easy bake oven and the wood infested with bugs. Add in constant humidity and a leaky roof. 
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Posted: 7/20/2023 8:56:28 AM EST
[#13]
Any recommended places to get garand parts?
I found what looks like a clean, original SA rear sight base on ebay for 35 shipped. Also seeing clean SA windage knobs for about 30 shipped. |
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USA
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Posted: 7/20/2023 10:09:14 AM EST
[Last Edit: SteelonSteel]
[#14]
Sarco seems to have good prices compared to many now.
$99 for a complete trigger assembly. I think I ordered once in my life from Sarco. I cannot vouch for them shipping product that matches their pictures. Edit, the did have several stripped ones too. i cannot recall if they were $40 or $60 ish. You may as well learn to tear them down. Clean the parts, lube the pivot point in the hammer where the hammer spring strut bears with grease. The trick is having strong hands to hold the hammer spring and hammer in place to put the hammer pin back. An old hammer spring yields a nicer trigger pull than a new spring. 
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OR, USA
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Posted: 7/20/2023 3:34:58 PM EST
[#15]
Sarco is like the CMP lottery, you could get a pristine part or rusted junk. Best option for parts is EBay or Gunbroker. NOS sight base should run around $20-25 and windage screw $15-20, if you shop around. Most online vendors for M1 rifle parts are over priced compared to EBay or Gunbroker.
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Posted: 7/20/2023 4:37:42 PM EST
[Last Edit: johnny_dot_exe]
[#16]
Looking at $60~ for a rear sight base and SA windage knob, $40 for what seems like a popular tuned gas plug, all from ebay. Might post a WTB ad in the EE and see if any arfcommers have those laying around.
Did find a few ebay sellers with SA trigger housings, $40-50 range. Depending on what CMP offers, may just grab one of those. CMP may not send me an SA housing, and they're probably going to make me send back the pitted/rusted housing and I'm not sure I want to deal with the hassle of all that. Is there a preference on clips? And a good place to buy from? Would like a couple. |
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LA, USA
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Posted: 7/20/2023 6:24:40 PM EST
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By johnny_dot_exe: Looking at $60~ for a rear sight base and SA windage knob, $40 for what seems like a popular tuned gas plug, all from ebay. Might post a WTB ad in the EE and see if any arfcommers have those laying around. Did find a few ebay sellers with SA trigger housings, $40-50 range. Depending on what CMP offers, may just grab one of those. CMP may not send me an SA housing, and they're probably going to make me send back the pitted/rusted housing and I'm not sure I want to deal with the hassle of all that. Is there a preference on clips? And a good place to buy from? Would like a couple. Check with ammogarand.com also known as packrats collectables for NOS Garand parts. |
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MN, USA
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Posted: 7/21/2023 6:29:30 PM EST
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By johnny_dot_exe: Is there a preference on clips? And a good place to buy from? Would like a couple. Had a very positive experience here. |
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Posted: 7/21/2023 7:09:31 PM EST
[#19]
Originally Posted By johnny_dot_exe: It's here! Before I get to the photos, I'll be completely honest here...my excitement wore off just a little bit as I got in to it. Some nasty brown oil showing at the top of the trigger was the giveaway. Field stripped it and found the whole left side plate of the trigger assembly covered in pitting and rust, and this is what was leaking down the trigger to the outside. Also noted some rust on the windage knob, tiny bit of damage to the outer ridges and rust starting to form on that, and some light damage on the very front/top of the stock. Perhaps I went in to the expert grade with higher expectations than I should have, but some of my fears were confirmed after seeing other recent reviews of what CMP has been sending out over the last year or so. Sign of the times I guess, these things aren't just laying around everywhere anymore. From what I've found so far, bear in mind this is my first Garand and I know little about them...receiver is 1956-ish SA receiver, WRA bolt, IHC hammer, I believe an SA trigger guard. Haven't really dug in to it much farther yet since I had to get back to work. Anyway, on to the terrible phone photos. https://imgur.com/a/Mq3sp5v https://i.imgur.com/mbDKoDu.jpg https://i.imgur.com/BlIlcwc.jpg https://i.imgur.com/saJEMo5.jpg https://i.imgur.com/8D4azen.jpg https://i.imgur.com/wlhdwHM.jpg https://i.imgur.com/IlwVn9R.jpg https://i.imgur.com/cKwWGAQ.jpg https://i.imgur.com/tCjIIvk.jpg https://i.imgur.com/AXKKySX.jpg https://i.imgur.com/aIJxyM9.jpg https://i.imgur.com/d3Mpyen.jpg Originally Posted By johnny_dot_exe: Tried to install an M5 bayo on it, won't lock in to place because the nub on the guard won't fit in to the gas plug, may just get an adjustable plug and hope that resolves the issue. Figured an M5 would be a good fit for a '56 Springfield. You could get a WW2 type from DuPage Trading for relatively cheap; I'm toying with ordering another one just because it's a good quality knife for that price. |
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Posted: 7/21/2023 7:24:08 PM EST
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Seven-Shooter: Doesn't look like anything a little CLP/gun oil/steel wool wouldn't take care of, IMO. My second Garand had some pitting under the wood, but is still quite a serviceable rifle. I have an adjustable plug on my Mini-G (the aforementioned rifle that had some pitting under the wood). The nub is larger than the threads inside the gas plug, so it doesn't fit 100%. After watching some vids and reading a ton of reviews, I ended up going with the ported gas plug from garandgear(via ebay). You can use a 1/4 ratchet to install/remove them, so I'm guessing my bayo won't fit that one either. |
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Posted: 7/22/2023 5:25:59 AM EST
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By johnny_dot_exe: After watching some vids and reading a ton of reviews, I ended up going with the ported gas plug from garandgear(via ebay). You can use a 1/4 ratchet to install/remove them, so I'm guessing my bayo won't fit that one either. Secondly yes CMP is turning out lots of junk the last few years....lots that should have never left the building. |
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CT, USA
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Posted: 7/22/2023 6:28:33 AM EST
[#22]
I’ve had great luck with https://www.garandpartsandmore.com/ who will answer messages if you’re looking for something specific.
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Posted: 7/22/2023 9:37:46 AM EST
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Jeremy2171: Sorry I got here late but you don't need to waste your money on that. Run the USGI gas cylinder lock screw (it's not a plug). I kind of jumped down the rabbit hole last night researching this topic and what I kept finding was...it wasn't just m2 being shot through these during the wars and they weren't bending op rods back then because of the ammo, and most commercial ammo today is within that same pressure range. However, just to be extra safe, I figured adding more volume to the gas tube wouldn't hurt so I grabbed that GG ported plug. |
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Posted: 7/22/2023 9:54:26 AM EST
[#24]
Seeing as I bought an expert grade to have a shooter I wasn't afraid to take out of the safe...is there any point in sourcing post-war SA parts for it? It's a '56 model but obviously has a mix of parts with a mix of dates. For example, it has an IHC hammer and a milled trigger guard. I do think it would be kind of neat having a true to the time build, even though it still won't be anywhere close to numbers matching.
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WY, USA
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Posted: 7/22/2023 10:45:37 AM EST
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By johnny_dot_exe: Seeing as I bought an expert grade to have a shooter I wasn't afraid to take out of the safe...is there any point in sourcing post-war SA parts for it? It's a '56 model but obviously has a mix of parts with a mix of dates. For example, it has an IHC hammer and a milled trigger guard. I do think it would be kind of neat having a true to the time build, even though it still won't be anywhere close to numbers matching. If it belonged to me I wouldn't bother. I'd change the springs, put a few coats of oil on the stock, purchase the best quality/lowest priced components to replace the parts I wasn't happy with, then take it out and enjoy it. |
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OR, USA
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Posted: 7/22/2023 11:35:36 AM EST
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By johnny_dot_exe: Seeing as I bought an expert grade to have a shooter I wasn't afraid to take out of the safe...is there any point in sourcing post-war SA parts for it? It's a '56 model but obviously has a mix of parts with a mix of dates. For example, it has an IHC hammer and a milled trigger guard. I do think it would be kind of neat having a true to the time build, even though it still won't be anywhere close to numbers matching. People gravitate to trying to match parts to the manufactured configuration. The desire to do this and dwindling supply of original parts is why parts cost so much. |
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Posted: 7/26/2023 10:53:19 AM EST
[Last Edit: johnny_dot_exe]
[#27]
So CMP never did email me back, but a complete trigger group just showed up at my door from them, along with a return envelope and prepaid label.
It's all in the post-war gray re-parkerization like the rest of the rifle, all SA parts which is pretty awesome, and it even has the post-war style trigger guard...which is neat since my rifle is a '56, but also more of a pain in the ass to field strip without that little hole to stick a screwdriver through for leverage. The lock-up in to the receiver/stock is a bit snug when installing, looks like the lugs on the side of that trigger guard/lever lock in to the slots of the receiver and that's likely where the tight fit is happening. I'll just make sure to put a dab of grease on each one and it will probably loosen up a bit over time. |
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Posted: 7/26/2023 11:21:46 AM EST
[#28]
Sounds like they did you right
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Posted: 7/26/2023 11:38:29 AM EST
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DonFlynn: Sounds like they did you right However, I'm still confident that I will never mail-order from them again. The more I read on various forums, reddit, etc...the clearer it becomes that them sending out damage and rust like this, especially on expert grades, has apparently become the norm. I'll gladly throw money at them in person, though. Just need to find something the wife will enjoy out in Alabama.
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Posted: 7/26/2023 11:59:20 AM EST
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By johnny_dot_exe: Yeah, that was definitely above and beyond just sending me a replacement housing. However, I'm still confident that I will never mail-order from them again. The more I read on various forums, reddit, etc...the clearer it becomes that them sending out damage and rust like this, especially on expert grades, has apparently become the norm. I'll gladly throw money at them in person, though. Just need to find something the wife will enjoy out in Alabama. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By johnny_dot_exe: Originally Posted By DonFlynn: Sounds like they did you right However, I'm still confident that I will never mail-order from them again. The more I read on various forums, reddit, etc...the clearer it becomes that them sending out damage and rust like this, especially on expert grades, has apparently become the norm. I'll gladly throw money at them in person, though. Just need to find something the wife will enjoy out in Alabama. I can relate. I ordered 3 Experts last year, the 1st was the best and the 1 I ended up keeping. Very minor frosting but otherwise excellent. The next 2 had pitting below the woodline on the receiver's, Enough to put me off. I sold 1 to a fiend and the 2nd I sold at my cost beginning of the year when I was between jobs. When they started offering Service grades a few months ago I was tempted to try 1 but couldn't justify taking the chance on another pitting issue. 1 Garand is enough for me 
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USA
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Posted: 7/26/2023 12:38:42 PM EST
[Last Edit: ckbk]
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rtintwo: If you are scared of rust or being shot out then definitely do not get a rack grade and field is questionable for you. The reason to go for those grades is to get a rifle that shows history, each bent and ding is a history lesson. You can look at it and imagine the crack in the stock happened when a young private buttstroked a nazi. But these grades just might have rust and for sure repaired pitting and the barrels will be worn. If you are wanting a good looking shooter then you should be looking at spending the money for an expert or service grade. These are the grades that you will be able to take to the range and get good groups out of and look good doing it. That rust didn't result from an American GI's use. The current rifles came from the Philippines, where a large quantity were stolen from armories by local insurgents with no care about proper rifle maintenance in the jungle. The Garands were reacquired and sent to CMP in the state they were recaptured in. |
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Posted: 7/26/2023 1:01:59 PM EST
[#32]
Anything I can do for the stock to protect it, but also make it feel/look not so dry? There's a fella on here that sells clips, and also makes stock wax that people seem to like. Just not sure what to use on this new production stock. I'm not sure what kind of finish was done to this stock from the factory, not even sure what company makes it.
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Posted: 7/26/2023 1:49:30 PM EST
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By johnny_dot_exe: Anything I can do for the stock to protect it, but also make it feel/look not so dry? There's a fella on here that sells clips, and also makes stock wax that people seem to like. Just not sure what to use on this new production stock. I'm not sure what kind of finish was done to this stock from the factory, not even sure what company makes it. Hit it with some boiled linseed oil. I did mine 4-5 coats and it helped alot. I also hit all my wooden stocks once a year with a fresh coat of it to keep them fresh |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 7/26/2023 2:10:10 PM EST
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By johnny_dot_exe: Anything I can do for the stock to protect it, but also make it feel/look not so dry? There's a fella on here that sells clips, and also makes stock wax that people seem to like. Just not sure what to use on this new production stock. I'm not sure what kind of finish was done to this stock from the factory, not even sure what company makes it. Tung oil is the way to go. Even the Army stopped using BLO in 1942 because it tended to smoke during extended firing. |
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OR, USA
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Posted: 7/26/2023 4:38:53 PM EST
[#35]
Don’t over think it or waste a bunch of money or time. BoIled linseed oil over the finish that came on the stock looks just about like a unused post war rifle stock. 3-4 coats is all you need. Freshen it up every year or two if it needs it.
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Posted: 7/26/2023 7:51:22 PM EST
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By johnny_dot_exe: Anything I can do for the stock to protect it, but also make it feel/look not so dry? There's a fella on here that sells clips, and also makes stock wax that people seem to like. Just not sure what to use on this new production stock. I'm not sure what kind of finish was done to this stock from the factory, not even sure what company makes it. Hit it with a coat or two of blo then my wax. It will seal the wood and protect it. |
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Posted: 7/27/2023 12:58:38 PM EST
[Last Edit: johnny_dot_exe]
[#37]
Got in the replacement SA marked windage knob and a GI sight base, both in the gray park so they match the rest of the rifle.The windage knob screw, while trying to figure out how to get it out of the windage knob, I realized the screw itself was pitted and a bit rusty. Struggling to find a new screw + c clip. Any suggestions? I read in an older thread elsewhere that these may be difficult to find, hopefully that's not the case because I really don't want to put the damaged one back in my rifle and I'm also confident I'm going to cause some damage trying to get it out of the old windage knob. Edit: Found a post-war style windage knob and elevation knob/pinion combo on ebay in appears to be 90%+ condition for 45 shipped, which is half the price of garandpartsandmore and most other places. Jumped on that, solves the above issue and also replaces my elevation knob/pinion that is a glossy black and stands out like a sore thumb with every other part being the gray parkerization. Can't tell if the elevation knob is branded, but the windage knob is DRC, same as what I received on my rifle. Has the long spline, my current one is split, but apparently both were possible post-war. I sure am learning a lot about garands, really quickly.
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USA
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Posted: 7/31/2023 11:54:54 AM EST
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By johnny_dot_exe:The windage knob screw, while trying to figure out how to get it out of the windage knob, I realized the screw itself was pitted and a bit rusty. Struggling to find a new screw + c clip. Any suggestions? I read in an older thread elsewhere that these may be difficult to find, hopefully that's not the case because I really don't want to put the damaged one back in my rifle and I'm also confident I'm going to cause some damage trying to get it out of the old windage knob. Other than robbing them from other windage knobs, the guts are not available. I have a bunch of knobs missing the guts that I'll likely never find enough parts or damaged knobs to rob the parts from to complete them. Additionally, it is a bit of a pain to get the guts to go back into the windage knob after removal. Patience and the right tools are key. |
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Posted: 7/31/2023 11:59:42 AM EST
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HurstXJ: Other than robbing them from other windage knobs, the guts are not available. I have a bunch of knobs missing the guts that I'll likely never find enough parts or damaged knobs to rob the parts from to complete them. Additionally, it is a bit of a pain to get the guts to go back into the windage knob after removal. Patience and the right tools are key. I never did manage to get the guts out of the DRC windage knob, but both the knob and the flush screw were pitted and rusted. Got a good condition post-war BMC windage/elevation combo on the way from eBay. |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 8/2/2023 9:38:45 AM EST
[#40]
I ordered two and kept the best one. Added bonus was one had an uncut win13 oprod I sold for $800. Tung oil is suppose to be the best but I had boiled linseed oil and used that. 7 coatings letting it dry it between made it come out very nice.
The trigger group is suppose to fit very tight, it adds in accuracy. |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 8/2/2023 10:10:48 AM EST
[Last Edit: a390st]
[#41]
They're sold out on service and field grades right now, but the north store had some they were saving for the national match competitors. They weren't impressive, to be honest, as the wood was pretty rough (lots just black as tar) and 2/3 was about as good as the ME/TE numbers got. Some had mismatched stocks and handguards. Obviously field grades were worse. Rack grades weren't much to be interested in. Some experts had a fair bit of pitting. All but one 308 had visible light pitting, and the one that didn't had a rough looking op rod.
Overall, not that great. More rifles than past couple of years, but not great condition. |
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Posted: 8/2/2023 10:20:45 AM EST
[Last Edit: johnny_dot_exe]
[#42]
There just aren't any good garand stashes to be found anymore and they're reaching in to the bottom of the barrel of what's left from the phillipines to build these. For a few years now there have been fairly regular reports of expert grades being shipped out with issues that shouldn't be on an expert. It was bound to happen eventually. The supply dropped and along with it the quality, while the price went up.
On the other hand, they sent me an expert with me a tore up trigger housing but then sent me an almost mint replacement a week later, so they definitely still have good parts. Maybe they're getting lazy, or trying to hold back the good parts until someone complains about what they received? |
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Posted: 8/2/2023 10:40:24 AM EST
[#43]
This thread is depressing.
I bought a 7-digit CMP Garand from a local elderly man. All parts period/mfg correct (stock is kinda rough) and in excellent condition. But I want another in 308 to use regularly. I'd hoped to save a ton of money and order an expert from the CMP. It would appear I'd be better off to buy a new mfg. This sucks. |
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Posted: 8/2/2023 10:49:43 AM EST
[Last Edit: johnny_dot_exe]
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rob78: This thread is depressing. I bought a 7-digit CMP Garand from a local elderly man. All parts period/mfg correct (stock is kinda rough) and in excellent condition. But I want another in 308 to use regularly. I'd hoped to save a ton of money and order an expert from the CMP. It would appear I'd be better off to buy a new mfg. This sucks. If hitting up the store isn't an option, if you mail order an expert and get bad pitting, damage, or rust...you do have the option of emailing or calling them to request an exchange or repair. I did that for my terrible condition trigger housing, and they sent me a complete trigger group full of SA parts that even had a post-war/late trigger guard which was great for my '56 SA. I would have been fine just swapping the housing and keeping my mix of trigger group parts, so that worked out for me in the best way possible. |
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Posted: 8/2/2023 10:58:08 AM EST
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By johnny_dot_exe: If hitting up the store isn't an option, if you mail order an expert and get bad pitting, damage, or rust...you do have the option of emailing or calling them to request an exchange or repair. I did that for my terrible condition trigger housing, and they sent me a complete trigger group full of SA parts that even had a post-war/late trigger guard which was great for my '56 SA. I would have been find just swapping the housing and keeping my mix of trigger group parts, so that worked out for me in the best way possible. Not an option for me. The closest is Anniston and that's ~7 hour drive. I may try ordering one. I don't care about parts matching, but the receiver/bolt/barrel condition is important. |
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Posted: 8/2/2023 11:16:51 AM EST
[Last Edit: johnny_dot_exe]
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rob78: Not an option for me. The closest is Anniston and that's ~7 hour drive. I may try ordering one. I don't care about parts matching, but the receiver/bolt/barrel condition is important. Definitely not going to get all one manufacturer or even period correct parts, unless you find one at the store or get really lucky on a mail order. My post-war SA expert came with a WRA bolt, IHC hammer, no markings on the safey, DRC windage knob, unknown elevation knob/pinion, and what appeared to be SA on everything else. I think they clarify in the expert description that there won't be any guarantees on part manufacturer outside of the receiver which is either sa/hra, ihc, or wra depending on how much you want to pay for an expert. As for period correct or even visually matching, same applies. I had an early trigger guard with that tool hole on the back of it, and most of the SA serials I found appeared to be early. They also sent an elevation knob/pinion that was gloss black while every other part was the post-war gray parkerization. Not a big enough deal to complain to them, since it's a working and good condition part, but the windage knob did have minor damage and rust. I ended up ordering a clean BMC windage/elevation combo from ebay that is post-war and gray park'd, but a week later and it hasn't shipped and the seller hasn't messaged me back so I guess I'll be looking for another soon. You do have the option of hitting up the online shops or ebay for certain manufacturer or period correct parts, they're still out there, but as another poster mentioned above...this is one of the causes of parts becoming more scarce. Admittedly I wanted to do the same thing the second this rifle showed up at my door, but the rifle works and looks great, so no point wasting the money and taking those parts off the market from someone else that might actually need them. |
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Posted: 8/2/2023 11:30:12 AM EST
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By johnny_dot_exe: Definitely not going to get all one manufacturer or even period correct parts, unless you find one at the store or get really lucky on a mail order. My post-war SA expert came with a WRA bolt, IHC hammer, no markings on the safey, DRC windage knob, unknown elevation knob/pinion, and what appeared to be SA on everything else. I think they clarify in the expert description that there won't be any guarantees on part manufacturer outside of the receiver which is either sa/hra, ihc, or wra depending on how much you want to pay for an expert. As for period correct or even visually matching, same applies. I had an early trigger guard with that tool hole on the back of it, and most of the SA serials I found appeared to be early. They also sent an elevation knob/pinion that was gloss black while every other part was the post-war gray parkerization. Not a big enough deal to complain to them, since it's a working and good condition part, but the windage knob did have minor damage and rust. I ended up ordering a clean BMC windage/elevation combo from ebay that is post-war and gray park'd, but a week later and it hasn't shipped and the seller hasn't messaged me back so I guess I'll be looking for another soon. You do have the option of hitting up the online shops or ebay for certain manufacturer or period correct parts, they're still out there, but as another poster mentioned above...this is one of the causes of parts becoming more scarce. Admittedly I wanted to do the same thing the second this rifle showed up at my door, but the rifle works and looks great, so no point wasting the money and taking those parts off the market from someone else that might actually need them. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By johnny_dot_exe: Originally Posted By rob78: Not an option for me. The closest is Anniston and that's ~7 hour drive. I may try ordering one. I don't care about parts matching, but the receiver/bolt/barrel condition is important. Definitely not going to get all one manufacturer or even period correct parts, unless you find one at the store or get really lucky on a mail order. My post-war SA expert came with a WRA bolt, IHC hammer, no markings on the safey, DRC windage knob, unknown elevation knob/pinion, and what appeared to be SA on everything else. I think they clarify in the expert description that there won't be any guarantees on part manufacturer outside of the receiver which is either sa/hra, ihc, or wra depending on how much you want to pay for an expert. As for period correct or even visually matching, same applies. I had an early trigger guard with that tool hole on the back of it, and most of the SA serials I found appeared to be early. They also sent an elevation knob/pinion that was gloss black while every other part was the post-war gray parkerization. Not a big enough deal to complain to them, since it's a working and good condition part, but the windage knob did have minor damage and rust. I ended up ordering a clean BMC windage/elevation combo from ebay that is post-war and gray park'd, but a week later and it hasn't shipped and the seller hasn't messaged me back so I guess I'll be looking for another soon. You do have the option of hitting up the online shops or ebay for certain manufacturer or period correct parts, they're still out there, but as another poster mentioned above...this is one of the causes of parts becoming more scarce. Admittedly I wanted to do the same thing the second this rifle showed up at my door, but the rifle works and looks great, so no point wasting the money and taking those parts off the market from someone else that might actually need them. I don't care about matching parts. Condition is my concern. I've got a collector garand. I want one that I can shoot regularly without worrying about dents/dings. Rust on/in the receiver, shot out barrels, etc. are my primary concern. I don't want to spend $1k only to have to rebarrel. At some point I've got to decide whether to buy one from FA or try to find one at a gunshow. |
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Posted: 8/2/2023 11:56:18 AM EST
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rob78: I don't care about matching parts. Condition is my concern. I've got a collector garand. I want one that I can shoot regularly without worrying about dents/dings. Rust on/in the receiver, shot out barrels, etc. are my primary concern. I don't want to spend $1k only to have to rebarrel. At some point I've got to decide whether to buy one from FA or try to find one at a gunshow. Given the market, and CMP members buying/immediately flipping for hundreds more on gunbroker, you're not going to find a better deal than an expert grade right from CMP for 1150 out the door. Even the guys selling them on the CMP forum mark them up for resale, don't let anyone tell you CMP actually cares about the resellers since they're allowing it on their own forum. If any of the other parts are damaged or have rust, just shoot them an email and a few days later a new part arrives with a return label for the old part. I boxed up my old trigger group, slapped the label on it, then called FedEx to come pick it up like the return instructions suggested. For the money, I'm happy with what I got and know I couldn't get another rifle in this condition for this price without buying from CMP again. Once I decide to shoot for originality points and pick up a rack or field grade, and maybe a 1903, the wife and I will take a weekend trip to Alabama so I can get them in person because that's not something I want to mail-order. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 8/2/2023 12:08:53 PM EST
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By johnny_dot_exe: I never did manage to get the guts out of the DRC windage knob, but both the knob and the flush screw were pitted and rusted. Got a good condition post-war BMC windage/elevation combo on the way from eBay. FYI there is no need to tear the rear sight completely apart. On the T105 just unscrew the castle nut in the middle of the windage knob. Then pull the elevation knob and pinion out of the sight assembly. Then unscrew the windage knob from the sight base. The sight base peep sight and cover can remain on the rifle. Do the reverse to install the new sight. |
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Posted: 8/2/2023 12:19:13 PM EST
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By svt40: FYI there is no need to tear the rear sight completely apart. On the T105 just unscrew the castle nut in the middle of the windage knob. Then pull the elevation knob and pinion out of the sight assembly. Then unscrew the windage knob from the sight base. The sight base peep sight and cover can remain on the rifle. Do the reverse to install the new sight.
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