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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 9/13/2003 6:46:26 AM EDT
Hi all!

The foundry shipped twenty machined test pieces of a stock adapter I am in the process of manufacturing...they should show up any day! After completing the machine work on a dimensional test casting I received last week, I did a little investigation/experimentation into GunKote as a possible finish. A much thinner coating than the powder coating I was originally planning on using, this now has me seriously considering going this route. This coating has me interested enough that I'm going to GunKote my entire slug gun this weekend (it has a pretty hideous paint job right now...:).

I'd be very grateful for any collective feedback on the topic of coatings...

Take care,

BrobeeBiter
Link Posted: 9/13/2003 6:55:28 AM EDT
I have Bearcoat from Rocky Mtn. Arms on several guns and like it alot.
Link Posted: 9/13/2003 9:19:19 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/13/2003 9:19:57 AM EDT by underdog75]
I have a buddy who does a variety of coatings Kg guncoat,Duracoat,Powder coating etc...Of them all id say you'll be most happy with the duracoat...Much tougher than the KG guncoat...I've tested both on Ar15 mags and the duracoat still looks new whereas the KG is starting to show some wear from insertion. Powdercoat is the toughest of all but requires a CLEAN! surface to stick too(not a problem with new parts as yours)...If you'd like you can send me a list and pics of the parts and I can get you a quotemasine@adelphia.net
Mossberg590a1 in OD Duracoat
Link Posted: 9/16/2003 8:27:19 AM EDT
underdog75: Thanks for the info! So far I've played with powder coating (you are very right that it is an extremely durable finish), and very recently GunKote. I have yet to try duracoat but it is something that I will seriously check out. Does any one else have experience with Duracoat?

My Gun Kote experience is pretty new; with deer season coming up I've been tinkering and tweeking my slug gun. For those of you who have seen it in previous pictures, it was very UGLY. (and extremely deserving of all those capital letters!) So last weekend, partially because I want to check out the Gun Kote for durability, and partially because I could not stand her current paint job, I re-finished my slug gun.



I used a hobby-styled airbrush running off a small compressor to apply to my dissmantled, sandblasted, degreased, and pre-heated wingmaster parts. With the mandatory pre-heat, this application process is pretty slick (as the GK dries immediately on contact) and yielded extremely professional results even for a first time coating novice such as myself. I'll log some serious field time with it this fall and hopefully have some good experience in the coating-wear department!

As an aside, I recently acquired a rifled remington slug barrel, and am still stunned at how accurate it is when fed either sabboted or brenneki slugs! I re-finished the whole nine yards last weekend (it was pretty ugly before!) with Gun Kote, the results of which you can check out in the above photograph. I hope it wears as well as it prints!


(5 rounds at 50 yards.)

Take care,

BrobeeBiter
Link Posted: 9/16/2003 9:33:45 AM EDT
Have you considered putting a mercury recoil reducer inside the CAR stock?
Link Posted: 9/16/2003 2:59:59 PM EDT
Anodizing maybe?

Link Posted: 9/16/2003 3:29:49 PM EDT

Originally Posted By underdog75:
Of them all id say you'll be most happy with the duracoat...Much tougher than the KG guncoat



Yes, Duracoat is some tough stuff!!

I did a couple of old M1 Carbine magazines in flat black duracoat. One of them had a small drip on the bottom (caused by my own mis-handling of the airbrush) so I thought, what the heck, I'll just buff it off and do it again.

First I tried a scotchbrite pad, then a brillo, then a foam core sanding block. Didn't even phase it. Then I dropped it muriatic acid for about an hour, still nothing. I finally got most of it off after much effort with a sheet of 120 grit sandpaper.

A couple of light coats over the top and the mag looks like new.

Just be sure to mix the hardner and the finish very well (and at the proper ratio) before spraying.
Link Posted: 9/16/2003 3:44:00 PM EDT
TheFNG: Anodizing is the finish of choice for any machined aluminum parts, however when you get into the casting world life gets a little more complex. Due to some metalurgical properties that I only partially understand, cast aluminums exhibit chrystal structure different from extruded aluminums such that, while they anodize to AlO2 ok, they don't take dye at all. Not an issue if you don't mind the sparkly white shine...but crappy if you are looking for a rich, dark, finish.

XM777: Thanks for the feedback! I''m going to try to get my hands on some duracoat and run a direct wear comparison between that and the couple I have powder coated and gunkoted (if there is such a verb). Does the duracoat require any form of heat curing? Does the part to be coated require any special treatment (other than degreased, clean bare metal) before application?

Zoub: I've thought about a recoil reducer as per your suggestion, however have not invested any time into chasing one. Do you know where a guy would start looking for a good one? If a guy could get one already done up, all I'd have to do to test drive the concept is machine a sleeve for it such that it fits snugly into the stock'sbuffer tube.

Back to finishes...can anyone who has experience with both coatings (duracoat and KG Gune Kote) contrast one vs. the other?

Take care,

BrobeeBiter
Link Posted: 9/16/2003 5:03:41 PM EDT

Originally Posted By BrobeeBiter:
Does the duracoat require any form of heat curing? Does the part to be coated require any special treatment (other than degreased, clean bare metal) before application?



Duracoat will air dry in about a week but 30 minutes at 180 degrees will force dry it.

The metal requires no treatment other than a good degreasing but a light bead or sand blasting will allow for a better bond between metal and finish.

Brownells is carrying Duracoat now www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=17640



Link Posted: 9/16/2003 9:02:24 PM EDT
Brobee, If you like i can get one part duracoated for you for free,Then you can do your testing at no investment in duracoat supplies...If you like it,You can either contact me for a quanity price or just try it yourself, Either way your only out the cost of shipping.........LMK.............UNDERDOG
Link Posted: 9/16/2003 9:20:25 PM EDT

Originally Posted By BrobeeBiter:
Zoub: I've thought about a recoil reducer as per your suggestion, however have not invested any time into chasing one. Do you know where a guy would start looking for a good one? If a guy could get one already done up, all I'd have to do to test drive the concept is machine a sleeve for it such that it fits snugly into the stock'sbuffer tube.



I would probably order the recoil reducer Benelli makes for their shotguns. Then I would get my hands on some skinny bike inner tubes. Depedning on dimensions, I would jam acertain amount of rubber in the end of the stock tube.

Then I would put the reducer inside a length of tube and add additional layers until it fits tight in stock tube.

Then I would jam some more rubber in to "seal" off the tube with reducer inside. This is 100% pretend crap in my head. Send me one of your adapters for free, and I will invest in the other stuff needed to make it work. I already have an engineer friend working on the concept for me. Or you can do it yourself.....I am just trying to help a guy out! And a Canadian guy at that!
Link Posted: 9/20/2003 2:35:43 PM EDT
Recoil reducers,

I have had discussions on this and those of you with a car stock adaptor may wanna try it. put a buffer spring in and a "H" or Dbl "H" buffer in back wards. that way the spring sits against the face of the buffer and the plastic shock aborber will go to the front of the tube. if any one does this post your results for the rest of us.

Ruff
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