Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login

Site Notices
Posted: 3/29/2009 3:10:53 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/29/2009 3:12:15 PM EDT by 1BMF]
Ok, i just got into reloading and have been reading alot online and in books and try not to ask questions I already see asked repeatedly. Ive loaded and shot 500 rounds of 5.56 which all worked great and very accurate through my two ARs (Stag M4 1/9 and Colt build 20" 1/12) I was using H322 at the starting load of 21grains(should I up the powder amount for self defense ammo? Ive just been using this at the range). I got the brass from TOP BRASS, and it is 1x fired then processed 100% ready to load.

I got all Lee case prep tools, as im using a lee hand press and dies. I live in an apartment, so it works best for me plus I actually enjoy it.

Well, after I shot all the ammo I loaded and picked up the casings I ran them through my tumbler so they're nice and clean. Then I used the Lee .223 dies to full length resize and deprime.

I have the lee zip trim and cutter with cal specific lock stud to trim them to length. Well, none needed trimming and are within spec for OAL case length of 1.748"-1.754". Is this odd to not have to trim their length? I have then been chamfer and deburring the case mouth to accept a new bullet(Lee chamfer/deburr tool). Is this neccessary since I didnt cut their length?

I wonder because when I got them from Top Brass, the case mouth was flat. Now from chamfer/deburr the lip of the mouth of the case is angled.


Lastly, processing 9mm brass is the same procedure correct? Resize/deprime, trim, chamfer/deburr.

Thanks

Link Posted: 3/29/2009 3:24:46 PM EDT
You need to read a good reloading manual.......and review it! Your case specs seem off? And, as for reloading handgun ammo well you need to review that procedure too!
Link Posted: 3/29/2009 3:30:06 PM EDT
I have Modern Reloading 2nd Ed. from Lee, and that has covered most of my questions.

This is just my first batch of casings that I am prepping, and I though they'd require trimming. They are in spec, I just wasnt sure if this was normal.

I may have just been wordy. My real question is if I dont have to trim them, do I need to chamfer and deburr? Everything I follow from the book.
Link Posted: 3/29/2009 3:36:28 PM EDT
No to trimming the 9mm brass. No need to chamfer it either, you'll neck expand it and that takes the place of chamfering.

With the rifle stuff, it's not unsual to not need to trim after one or two firings, just keep a check on it and trim when you need to. As to chamfering, it needs to be done one time only unless you trim the brass. You need a slight bevel to keep from scraping the bulleet as you seat it. Trimming removes that bevel so you'll need to restore after trimming.
Link Posted: 3/29/2009 3:45:45 PM EDT
Thanks, just what I wanted to know!
Link Posted: 3/29/2009 3:47:32 PM EDT
Your cases were obviously trimmed by Top Brass. Trimming to 1.750" will allow shooting them 1-4 times before trimming is necessary again. You just have to check them to insure they are below maximum length of 1.760". If they were also chamfered properly and you don't trim again they probably won't require chamfering again. If you trim you want to chamfer just enough to remove the sharp edge so the brass won't shave the copper on the bullets plus it'll make it easier to start the bullets into the case. Don't remove much metal and make the mouth sharp. Trimming to exact lengths helps get a uniform crimp if you roll crimp the case to the bullet.
9mm headspaces on the case mouth. You don't want to chamfer 9mm case mouths as it reduces the flat area of the mouth that headspaces on the chamber. Now if it has a nick you can remove the nick. You do not need to trim 9mm cases. They will vary in length a little but it is not necessary to trim them. I do check the lengths with my calipers but have not run into one that needs trimming yet. The 9mm cases will NOT grow in length like bottleneck rifle cases will and in fact can shorten a little.
Top Top