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Posted: 11/29/2014 12:57:30 PM EDT
[#1]
Nope, no lube needed to load. I suggest that you put a Lee Universal decapper die in station 1 of your 650 in lieu of a resizer to ensure that your flash hole is clear.
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Posted: 11/29/2014 1:03:41 PM EDT
[#2]
Here are my personal necked case reloading steps for information. There are other ways to do it, but this works well for me and my XL650 w/casefeeder. I check my brass twice during the brass prep process (after initial cleaning and then again after cleaning the lube off) and then again after I've completed reloading the rounds just to make sure I've caught any bad brass and/or rounds. Reloading steps for necked rifle brass: Brass Prep Cycle (using your case prep toolhead setup): 1. Inspect Brass and Sort By Headstamp 2. Tumble / Clean Brass - Lizard Litter Walnut & Turtle Wax car polish - 1 hr max 3. Lube Brass - Dillon Spray Lube not One-Shot 4. Install Case Prep Toolhead in XL650 - confirm adjustments • Dillon Decapper / Resizer die in station #1 - I resize and decap at this stage • Dillon Trimmer in station #4 - I have the die set to trim at the proper length so only if a case needs it will it be trimmed 5. Drop Brass in Casefeeder and crank handle to Decap / Resize and Trim (automatically only if necessary) 6. Tumble / Clean Brass - Lizard Litter Walnut - 10 minutes max 7. Inspect brass again and Dillon Case Gauge - Lot samples: 5-10% of total. If question, then gauge every case. 8. Swage - Dillon's Super Swage only on 1st brass processing cycle if required 9. Store prep'd brass for reloading in future I neither chamfer, de-burr the case neck, nor clean the primer pockets as I find them unnecessary. Even flat based bullets don't require an inside chamfer to seat, Dillon's trimmer leaves such a clean cut that simply tumbling off the lube leaves the case completely burr free, and my primer pockets don't get dirty enough to warrant cleaning. You see, I don't do Bullseye shooting and found that I don't need to clean my primer pockets to achieve the accuracy I'm looking (less than 1MOA). The Dillon Super Swage does a great job at both removing the crimp and swaging a uniform primer pocket and my Dillon trimmer leaves a smooth, 4° slanted, bur free edge. Reloading Cycle (using your reloading toolhead setup): 1. Install Reloading Toolhead in XL650, fill powder measure, primer feed, and bullet bin - confirm adjustments • Lee Universal Decapper die in #1 - to remove any media in flash hole • Dillon Powder die in #2 • Dillon Powder Check die in #3 • Lee Pacesetter Bullet Seater in #4 • Lee Pacesetter FCD in #5 2. Drop Brass in Casefeeder and crank handle while adding bullets with left hand 3. Inspect finished rounds 4. Box and label The Lee Universal die I add to the reloading toolhead in station #1 is simply there as cheap insurance ($10) to insure that there isn't a piece of media stuck in the flash hole. Further, I've found that I like the Lee Pacesetter Bullet Seater and FCD dies better than the Dillon version because you can adjust the bullet seat depth by hand vs by wrench so I buy a Lee Pacesetter set and also a Dillon Decapping / Resizing die and use them as mentioned above. Best part is buying the set and Dillon die is still cheaper than a Dillon set. Go to range and make empty brass to start cycle once again. Straight walled (mostly pistol) calibers don't usually require trimming and therefore, can be processed and reloaded in a single cycle. They also usually don't require lube when using carbide resizing dies so that's what most people buy. Because of that and the fact that you don't need to trim them as they don't tend to grow, most people tumble them clean and then reload them directly without a case prep cycle. Many people find that Lee Deluxe Carbide 4 die pistol die sets are both economical (1/2 the price of Dillon dies) and work great. I use them on my 38spl, 357mag, 40s&w, 45acp, 10mm, 45 Colt and 30 Carbine. (Note: Some 9mm and 45acp brass could be military and therefore need the primer crimp swagged or reamed before reloading but that can be avoided by using only commercial brass.) Here are my personal straight walled pistol reloading steps for information. There are other ways to do it, but this works well for me and my XL650 w/casefeeder. Reloading Steps for pistol calibers using commercial brass (some military 9mm or 45acp may be crimped and steps outlined above): 1. Inspect Brass 2. Tumble / Clean Brass - Lizard Litter Walnut & Turtle Wax car polish - 1 hr max 3. Install Reloading Toolhead in XL650, fill powder measure, primer feed, and bullet bin - confirm adjustments • Lee Decapper / Resizer die in #1 • Dillon Powder die in #2 (proprietary for the powder measure so you don't use the Lee version) • Dillon Powder Check die in #3 • Lee Bullet Seater in #4 • Lee FCD in #5 4. Drop Brass in Casefeeder and crank handle while adding bullets to cases at station 4 with left hand 5. Inspect finished rounds 6. Box and label Go to range and make empty brass to start cycle once again. |
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Posted: 11/29/2014 6:56:49 PM EDT
[#3]
No.
I want my loading head dies to be free of lube which equates to cleaning them less. Imo it is completely unnecessary and in my case detrimental to neck tension as I spray my cases and necks liberally with lube. Clean once after resizing/trim is how I roll now. There are many ways to load rifle, different strokes for different folks. This works for me. .223 setup on xl650 My set-up is as follows. . . New and improved method requires only one cleaning and two processes. No more depriming stage to wet tumble first. LUBE Brass with shine version of DCL Stage 1 Brass prep tool head Station 1 - Dillon .223 Carbide Sizing/Decapping Die sized to 85% Station 2 - Empty naked to the wind Station 3 - Dillon 1200b Trimmer with custom insert pin and attach vacuum. Trim die set to size the other 15% which makes sure the case does not spin. Station 4 - Empty naked to the wind Station 5 - Lyman M Die -set to knock of any inside burr and put a extreme very slight flare in less than .002 Wet Tumble Cleans off any lube out side and more importantly gets ride of all lube from the inside of the case necks, also pretty much guarantees any burrs left will be gone and makes the cases look brand new. Hornady pocket ream primer pockets if necessary. Stage 2 Loading tool head Station 1 - Lee Universal Decapping Die to clear flash hole of any debri as added insurance. Station 2 - Seat primer, drop powder Station 3 - Dillon Powder Check Station 4 - Redding Competition Pro Seating Die Station 4 - Lee Factory Crimp Die to take out the slight flare from the M die and employ a slight crimp. |
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Posted: 11/29/2014 10:44:43 PM EDT
[#4]
You only need lube for resizing.
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