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NY, USA
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Posted: 2/8/2010 7:49:39 PM EDT
[Last Edit: perimedik]
Like me
Hey Guys, I've seen a few of these threads so I decided to turn it into a step by step pictorial. Moderators delete if you see fit. Step One Throw "One Shot" in the garbage because evdentially it sucks... 
Step Two Gather contents - Liquid Lanolin (100% pure was $7.00 at the local health food store) Isopropyl Alcohol (at minimum 91% $1.19 at the local drug store - 99% is best couldn't find it) New or Clean spray bottle (from the "Dollar" store) has ratio markings and ounce markings so it helps 
Step Three Warm the Lanolin in warm tap water (110 to 120 degrees F - NO OPEN FLAMES) Do the same for the IPA, this will help in the mixing process. 
Step Four Pour 2 (two) ounces of the warmed Lanolin into the spray bottle 
Step Five Pour 16 (sixteen) ounces of the warmed IPA into the spray bottle giving you an 1:8 ratio This seem to be the ratio that best mimics Dillon Spray Lube 
Step Six Shake until contents becomes homogonized and label the bottle accordingly (so you don't confuse it with CLP or something) 
then proceed to lube cases as needed. I left some room incase I needed to adjust the ratio depending on the dies and how finiky they may be. Seems to work fine. I did about 30 once fired LC headstamps and it was smooth as silk. Hope it helps 
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Posted: 2/8/2010 10:17:36 PM EDT
[#1]
Add your thread to the tacked Gateway thread.
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Posted: 2/9/2010 12:11:56 PM EDT
[#2]
there was another thread here a few weeks ago that had this same diy "product". the recommendation in that thread was 4oz liquid lanolin to 16-20oz 90+% alcohol.
i found 16oz bottles of 99% alcohol for less then $2 at my local vons / safeway in the medicine/pharmacy area of the store and mixed 4oz to 16oz in a 32oz spray bottle from the dollar store. i also found the liquid lanolin (same brand as pictured above) at a local homeopathic health store, but was more costly than i expected, at $10 / 4oz bottle. still, not too bad: 20+ oz of case lube for $12. works really good with 2 sprays - spray, mix, spray, mix, set out to dry. i use a 3 gallon zip loc to mix them around in, and can easily get over 120 .223 cases into the bag, lying in rows on their sides and not covering each other. |
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MI, USA
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Posted: 2/9/2010 12:18:42 PM EDT
[#3]
In another case lube thead someone said they use Iso Heet (fuel line drier). 99% isopropyl alcohol. I thought that was a great idea.
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NY, USA
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Posted: 2/9/2010 4:37:56 PM EDT
[#4]
Originally Posted By YZ250Rider:
In another case lube thead someone said they use Iso Heet (fuel line drier). 99% isopropyl alcohol. I thought that was a great idea. HEET is either Methanol (Methyl Alcohol) or Isopropanol (Isopropyl Alcohol) Make sure you get the Isopropyl Alcohol because Methanol is pretty nasty (toxic) stuff in inhaled or injested or transdermal (skin) contact. |
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LA, USA
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Posted: 2/9/2010 4:46:13 PM EDT
[#5]
Not to litter up your thread but 1:12 should be a closer mix to the Dillon spray lube using 99% IPA and is more than enough lube, 1:8 is a little thick but maybe it's not mixing good with the 91% IPA or something of that nature.
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Posted: 2/10/2010 12:33:30 AM EDT
[#6]
This might be a tag for an easy reference later
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MI, USA
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Posted: 2/10/2010 9:27:37 AM EDT
[#7]
Originally Posted By perimedik:
Originally Posted By YZ250Rider:
In another case lube thead someone said they use Iso Heet (fuel line drier). 99% isopropyl alcohol. I thought that was a great idea. HEET is either Methanol (Methyl Alcohol) or Isopropanol (Isopropyl Alcohol) Make sure you get the Isopropyl Alcohol because Methanol is pretty nasty (toxic) stuff in inhaled or injested or transdermal (skin) contact. Right, Heet is Methanol, and Iso Heet is Isopropyl. I looked up the MSDS just to verify, and I did verify it was 99% Iso, plus one percent of "proprietary ingredients"... Probably a splash of detergent. |
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NY, USA
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Posted: 2/14/2010 1:43:05 PM EDT
[#8]
just did a few hundred cases with no problem at all.
works great 
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Posted: 2/14/2010 6:44:47 PM EDT
[#9]
Originally Posted By EWP: Not to litter up your thread but 1:12 should be a closer mix to the Dillon spray lube using 99% IPA and is more than enough lube, 1:8 is a little thick but maybe it's not mixing good with the 91% IPA or something of that nature. Agreed, 1:8 is way too thick... |
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Posted: 2/14/2010 11:30:51 PM EDT
[#10]
I use Imperial Case Sizing Wax...8 bucks for a 2 oz can that I've barely made a dent in over 5 years...
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Posted: 2/14/2010 11:58:44 PM EDT
[#11]
The 99% alcohol is available at farm supply stores in the "medicine" area––around the stuff for worming horses/cattle, etc. It's cheap that way too.
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Posted: 2/15/2010 2:15:07 PM EDT
[#12]
Originally Posted By thebeekeeper1:
The 99% alcohol is available at farm supply stores in the "medicine" area––around the stuff for worming horses/cattle, etc. It's cheap that way too. noted! I haven't found any locally either, but haven't tried farm stores yet.
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MO, USA
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Posted: 2/15/2010 2:29:52 PM EDT
[#13]
Thank You! I have been trying to figure out a good cheap way to make a good homemade spray lube.
I second the Iso-Heet as it is 99% Isopropyl alcohol and is the only way I have been able to get Isopropyl that pure. The drug store has 50% 70% and 91%. |
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NY, USA
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Posted: 2/15/2010 2:33:11 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Skeet6]
[#14]
THIS Try this, cheap and works great!!!
(Gardner-Bender Cable pulling lube... read about it I think on surplusrifle.com some years ago...) Mike B |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/15/2010 4:16:27 PM EDT
[#15]
Originally Posted By Skeet6:
THIS Try this, cheap and works great!!! (Gardner-Bender Cable pulling lube... read about it I think on surplusrifle.com some years ago...) Mike B What's it cost, and how do you put it on? I like the spray because you DON"T have to touch each case. 'Borg |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 2/17/2010 10:42:57 AM EDT
[#16]
I would also like to know how you are applying this because I was under the impression that you don't want lube on the shoulder.
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MI, USA
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Posted: 12/6/2010 1:05:22 PM EDT
[#17]
Thanks everybody now that I got some responses I remember using about 1.5 to 2 oz. lanolin to 16 oz. IPA. this stuf works GREAT and is easy to get off in the tuimbler. As to getting lube on the shoulder I think that is mostly with lube pads and gel lubes. The homemade stuff is much thinner and when it dries you can hardly see it on the cases. I will never go back to any other lube.
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Posted: 12/6/2010 1:48:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: AeroE]
[#18]
Originally Posted By creedlemyerjones:
I would also like to know how you are applying this because I was under the impression that you don't want lube on the shoulder. Don't worry about it. Unless you slather on far too much lube. I'm going to have to extend my search for 99% IPA, so far I'm coming up empty handed. There's a wholesale vet supply business near where I live that will probably be my next stop. |
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MI, USA
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Posted: 12/6/2010 2:17:22 PM EDT
[#19]
Originally Posted By AeroE:
Originally Posted By creedlemyerjones:
I would also like to know how you are applying this because I was under the impression that you don't want lube on the shoulder. Don't worry about it. Unless you slather on far too much lube. I'm going to have to extend my search for 99% IPA, so far I'm coming up empty handed. There's a wholesale vet supply business near where I live that will probably be my next stop. Aero, as I mentioned earlier in this thread, ISO-HEET (red bottle) works great, and you can get it everywhere. I picked up a bottle on sale for 1 dollar. Granted it's not the best price since it comes in 12 oz bottles, but since I have to use so little of it, i don't mind.... especially since I don't have to drive all over town to find it. I've sized 2k .223 cases using the "shake and bake" method of application, and I've barely put a dent into the first 13.5 oz batch I mixed up. |
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Posted: 12/6/2010 2:43:46 PM EDT
[#20]
I have another need for IPA besides case sizing and would as soon have pure alcohol, or at least 99% IPA.
For a batch of case lube, what you're doing makes sense. |
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Posted: 12/6/2010 3:20:12 PM EDT
[#21]
Is there anything wrong with using denatured alcohol which I also use for my alcohol stove and purchase by the gallon?
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PA, USA
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Posted: 12/6/2010 3:23:41 PM EDT
[#22]
Look at this:
http://www.nextag.com/liquid-lanolin/stores-html |
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Posted: 12/6/2010 10:02:19 PM EDT
[#23]
Originally Posted By AeroE:
Originally Posted By creedlemyerjones:
I would also like to know how you are applying this because I was under the impression that you don't want lube on the shoulder. Don't worry about it. Unless you slather on far too much lube. I'm going to have to extend my search for 99% IPA, so far I'm coming up empty handed. There's a wholesale vet supply business near where I live that will probably be my next stop. I have only been able to find 99% IPA locally, so far, at a farm supply store, which just happens to be called "Farm Supply". |
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Posted: 12/6/2010 10:12:06 PM EDT
[#24]
TAG
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LA, USA
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Posted: 12/6/2010 11:04:39 PM EDT
[#25]
Originally Posted By AeroE:
I have another need for IPA besides case sizing and would as soon have pure alcohol, or at least 99% IPA. For a batch of case lube, what you're doing makes sense. Bought at the local compounding pharmacy for $2.64 each, can and will send you as much as you need my friend. 
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ID, USA
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Posted: 12/7/2010 2:43:08 AM EDT
[#26]
Ive been using this recipe for awhile. Works so much better than One-Shot and is cheaper.
Link to cheap lanolin |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 12/7/2010 3:37:45 AM EDT
[#27]
I always thin down my Dillon spray lube. Using it full strength, I find that by the time I get full coverage, I have too much on (film is too thick). A dilution of 2 lube and one alcohol is about right to start. Try a 50:50 mix, too.
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WI, USA
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Posted: 12/13/2010 9:10:54 PM EDT
[#28]
will this stuff degrade powder or pirmers? does it need to be removed before charging? looks very interesting
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USA
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Posted: 12/13/2010 9:53:09 PM EDT
[#29]
i just use non-stick cooking spray. works fine for me.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 12/15/2010 1:57:07 PM EDT
[#30]
After sizing, does this lube need to be washed or tumbled off?
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VA, USA
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Posted: 12/16/2010 11:31:20 PM EDT
[#31]
Would it be best to alternate a few lubed cases and one non-lubed case in order to keep the die clean?
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Posted: 12/19/2010 6:10:11 PM EDT
[#32]
Originally Posted By Guarocuya:
Would it be best to alternate a few lubed cases and one non-lubed case in order to keep the die clean? rifle cases need LUBE or you'll get the brass stuck in the DIE |
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MN, USA
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Posted: 12/25/2010 8:33:10 AM EDT
[#33]
Originally Posted By Brian10:
After sizing, does this lube need to be washed or tumbled off? Tag as I would also like to know the answer to this. I like the sounds of this lube, especially if it reduces steps in the loading process. |
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Posted: 12/26/2010 11:27:09 PM EDT
[#34]
Originally Posted By huge_gator:
This might be a tag for an easy reference later yup |
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VA, USA
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Posted: 12/26/2010 11:50:37 PM EDT
[#35]
Originally Posted By Guarocuya:
Would it be best to alternate a few lubed cases and one non-lubed case in order to keep the die clean? I did that today with about 600 .30 Carbine cases. Would insert 2-4 lubed cases, then could go with two unlubed cases with ease, the third being a little sticky. Whenever, I would take a break, I would run a couple of unlubed cases to clean out the die. Of course, ymmv because it was a carbide die, and the .30 carbine case is a straight wall with a slight taper. |
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LA, USA
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Posted: 12/27/2010 10:17:35 AM EDT
[Last Edit: EWP]
[#36]
Mink Oil leather boot conditioner works just as good if not better than Imperial sizing wax since it has Lanolin & Silicone in it which makes sizing effortless and can be bought almost anywhere shoes are sold.
Or just use this 
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Posted: 12/27/2010 10:48:20 AM EDT
[#37]
Originally Posted By randyg72:
Originally Posted By Brian10:
After sizing, does this lube need to be washed or tumbled off? Tag as I would also like to know the answer to this. I like the sounds of this lube, especially if it reduces steps in the loading process. I too would like to know the answer. That makes 3 of us. Since no one has answered it must be a top seceret answer. I guess we don't know the seceret handshake... 
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Posted: 12/27/2010 10:57:44 AM EDT
[#38]
The lube doesn't need to be cleaned off but (IMHO) it should be cleaned off. There are different methods of doing this based upon personal preference.
1. Run your cases through the tumbler after sizing. Be sure to check your primer pockets afterwards when priming to ensure the flash hole is clear. 2. Load them up and tumble them afterwards. (I have yet to do this but there is a thread in this forum about doing it with no adverse effects tot he rounds.) |
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NY, USA
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Posted: 12/27/2010 10:58:31 AM EDT
[#39]
I have done both. I have loaded .223 for plinking (RP Brass, CCI 400 primers, H335 with 55gr FMJBT) without tumbling - ZERO issue. Every one went bang.
Using the Lee turret just cycle through and load up a pet load. I have also done Lake City 30.06 - decap/resize/swage the primer pocket and and toss it in the walnut for a few minutes to remove the lube, then clean the primer pockets of carbon. no secret handshake. works fine either way. |
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NY, USA
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Posted: 12/27/2010 3:30:53 PM EDT
[#40]
What about using an ultra sonic for cleaning after the lube?
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Posted: 12/27/2010 3:54:41 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ma96782]
[#41]
Originally Posted By Brian10:
After sizing, does this lube need to be washed or tumbled off? Ammo should be clean and dry in order to be used in your firearm. ________________ How you get it cleaned is your choice. Me.............I don't recommend tumbling loaded ammo or soaking/washing loaded ammo. A rag w/ solvent goes a long way OR just reclean (tumble or wash) your (already decapped/resized & trimmed) empty brass prior to going on with the rest of your reloading process. Aloha, Mark |
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Posted: 12/27/2010 3:56:18 PM EDT
[#42]
Originally Posted By Bllade: What about using an ultra sonic for cleaning after the lube? I'm still newish to reloading but this is what I do. I just get the water as hot as I can and add a sprinkle of lemshine and then I run it through a couple cycles. Once it is done running the cycles I put the brass in a strainer and rinse it with hot water, let them dry and it seems to do a decent enough job for me. Your results may vary. |
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Posted: 12/28/2010 2:35:33 PM EDT
[Last Edit: azlester]
[#43]
Here is my contribution to the subject of lubes. I have used the Lee case lube for awhile on a pad...never really like using the pad but this thread and others got me thinking. Lee has always said that their lube is water soluble, so I tried it. I didn't care for the results as it took too long to dry and left the brass water marked. The threads about using ISO got me thinking so I wrote to Lee about using ISO and this is the reply I got back from them.
Yes it can be mixed with alcohol. We suggest using a 10 to 1 mix of denatured alcohol and case lube. Make sure to shake the bottle before every use as they will separate.
Thank You Lee Precision So I am going to make a run to the drug store and get a bottle of alcohol and mix it up and see how she does. I like the idea of using a couple of messed bullets to aid with the mixing. The Lee case lube is $2.50 for 2.5oz so that is just about what the lanolin costs. I'll let you all know how it does. |
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USA
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Posted: 12/28/2010 3:03:06 PM EDT
[#44]
Originally Posted By Skeet6:
THIS Try this, cheap and works great!!! (Gardner-Bender Cable pulling lube... read about it I think on surplusrifle.com some years ago...) Mike B Otherwise known as J-lube. |
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Posted: 12/28/2010 6:49:44 PM EDT
[#45]
Originally Posted By azlester: Originally Posted By randyg72: Originally Posted By Brian10: After sizing, does this lube need to be washed or tumbled off? Tag as I would also like to know the answer to this. I like the sounds of this lube, especially if it reduces steps in the loading process. I too would like to know the answer. That makes 3 of us. Since no one has answered it must be a top seceret answer. I guess we don't know the seceret handshake... dump you brass into a tray, like one of your wife's cookie trays spray lube wait 10mins for the alcohol to evaporate resize your brass dump it in the tumbler for 10-15mins to knock off the case lube. |
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LA, USA
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Posted: 1/6/2011 1:57:41 AM EDT
[#46]
Originally Posted By grywlf52:
The lube doesn't need to be cleaned off but (IMHO) it should be cleaned off. There are different methods of doing this based upon personal preference. 1. Run your cases through the tumbler after sizing. Be sure to check your primer pockets afterwards when priming to ensure the flash hole is clear. 2. Load them up and tumble them afterwards. (I have yet to do this but there is a thread in this forum about doing it with no adverse effects tot he rounds.) +1 - I always run my cases through the tumbler before resizing, then once again after resizing and swaging the primer pocket. I like working with clean brass, and it seems no matter the lube, it will attract dirt and grime after it is applied. Your reloads will look like a craftsman did them, not some amateur..... 
LC |
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LA, USA
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Posted: 1/6/2011 1:59:44 AM EDT
[#47]
Originally Posted By R2point0:
Originally Posted By Skeet6:
THIS Try this, cheap and works great!!! (Gardner-Bender Cable pulling lube... read about it I think on surplusrifle.com some years ago...) Mike B Otherwise known as J-lube. This is intriguing, I see this stuff at Lowe's all the time, I was wondering if it could have other uses. LC |
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SD, USA
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Posted: 1/6/2011 2:13:04 AM EDT
[#48]
why the hate for one shot?
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Posted: 1/6/2011 2:44:36 AM EDT
[#49]
I am gonna have to give this a try. I use petroleum jelly.
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LA, USA
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Posted: 1/6/2011 3:29:43 AM EDT
[#50]
Originally Posted By Springer09:
why the hate for one shot? Well, I just got finished using my first can of it, and while it is quick to apply, a lot is wasted in the spray. That isn't the biggest problem, however. Seems like it takes a whole lot to lube the cases properly. Got my first stuck case ever tonight, and I've been reloading for more than ten years. I always used the RCBS lube on the rolling pad and never had a problem. The One Shot just doesn't appear to be as good as others. LC |
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