I striped the stock using Behlen's Solar-Lux alcohol-based dye and the method described by Jack Brooks (The Classroom), which closely replicates the "faux" striping found on original Leman rifles. I practiced first and it actually worked out rather well.
Looking at it now after not touching it for several months, I see several things I wish I had done different and/or that I want to fix. First the comb has a weird swoop in it that I forgot to clean up before I finished the stock. That's because the CVA sights were a mile high and after I installed the lower Leman-type sights I couldn't get my big head down on the stock enough. I lowered the comb to a useable level but ended up with a strange shape. It's comfy but looks goofy.
I'd also like to inlet a real entry pipe and nosecap to get rid of the wonky CVA nosecap. I also need to replace the lock bolts with some more authentic-looking ones and countersink the buttplate screw holes. I want to take some of the pimp-shine off of the Tru-Oil too, and maybe find a tinted varnish to use to get closer to the Leman look.
The gun shoots (big .54cal BOOM) and I need to experiment with some patch thicknesses. I was using some .530s and generic pillow ticking and the dirtier the bore was, the better the gun shot. Just need more time –– but I think that aside from being a pain to clean, the rough bore will be okay.
As you can see from the before/after pics, I also reshaped the triggergaurd some, both lock panels, the forend, the cheekrest, etc., and replaced the brass ramrod thimbles with some steel CVA ones I found in a junk bin at my LGS. I made and inletted the lock bolt "sideplates" instead of using the weird brass washers the gun came with.
The stock wood was a pain to work with, but good practice. It alternated between splintery soft and rock hard (especially at the knot on the cheek side ), and I spent a lot of time scraping and stropping and in the end still ended up with a kind of wavy finish. You can't see where I glass bedded the tang and barrel at the breech and wedge in order to stabilize the tension on the wedge. (It seemed to vary a lot depending on how the tang screw was tightened, and it would keep going and going and going... not anymore).
So far, I have about $30 into this rifle and probably 40+ hours of swearing and sweating.