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Posted: 3/26/2009 11:06:37 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/27/2009 8:35:39 PM EDT by limaxray]
Just spent a LOT of time refinishing the wood on my CMP Winchester. Was trying to tighten up the front handguard liner when I hard a weird POP and saw a 3" crack appear from the back towards the front of the handguard. It's not wide, and it's near invisible when it's installed on the rifle.

So, questions––how do I fix it? I want to keep it, because it's almost a perfect match for the rear handguard and stock. Or, can I leave it alone installed, or will it just make it worse?
Link Posted: 3/26/2009 11:21:35 AM EDT
One technique I've read but not tried is to work some glue into the crack using dental floss.
Link Posted: 3/26/2009 12:21:10 PM EDT


Link Posted: 3/26/2009 1:04:20 PM EDT
I can tell you from experience the Gorilla wood glue is amazing shit. Not that I was enough to crack my M1's handguard, but I digress.

Apply it from the underside, and wipe any excess off the top side and allow to fully dry. That will stop the crack.
Link Posted: 3/26/2009 1:07:40 PM EDT
Damn right, wood. The only way to fly.

Link Posted: 3/26/2009 1:17:26 PM EDT
Link Posted: 3/27/2009 5:01:11 AM EDT
Originally Posted By 45FMJoe:
I can tell you from experience the Gorilla wood glue is amazing shit. Not that I was enough to crack my M1's handguard, but I digress.

Apply it from the underside, and wipe any excess off the top side and allow to fully dry. That will stop the crack.

Gorrilla glue works great, but fair warning to those not familiar: It foams up, and it will make a mess of your project if you use too much. Practice on something else before you tackle the stock.
Link Posted: 3/27/2009 5:45:47 AM EDT
I've had good luck repairing that sort of crack with regular liquid(not gel) super glue.

Buy a brand name glue, such as crazy glue, clean the cracked area with brake cleaner making sure to clean the crack itself. Let it get dry and fill the crack with super glue. The thin glue will flow into every nook and cranny if you spread the crack just a little bit. Glue it and put rubber bands on to hold it tight.

When dry, clean up the excess glue and maybe sand the cracked area a bit to remove exposed glue. Stain or blo and should give a near invisable repair.

Link Posted: 3/27/2009 3:53:05 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/27/2009 3:57:43 PM EDT by JohnRippert]
If I was doing this on one of mine, since I have Gorilla Glue and old diapers sitting around the house, I would cut a 3 1/2" by 1/2" piece of old diaper and put a thin layer of Gorilla Glue 1/2" wide by 3 1/2" over the cracked area. Pop the strip of diaper on the Gorilla Glue and paint over it with another layer of glue, getting the cotton good and saturated. Once that all hardens it should be strong as new, if not stronger. If it foams up too much you can always wait till it dries and sand it down to about the level of the cotton strip. I would be leery about clamping or wrapping the HG with rubber bands or anything because it would be pretty easy to put just a bit too much pressure on it and finish the job the crack started.
Link Posted: 3/27/2009 4:48:46 PM EDT
Work glue in crack
Use M3 33 Elec tape
Strech tight around wood
Leave loose in gap on bottom where liner is
Rap many times the whole lenghth of crack
Leave it for 24 hrs
Link Posted: 3/27/2009 8:30:03 PM EDT
Well, here's how it turned out. Thanks for all the advice & techniques!

I gently spread the crack and worked a soaking-wet Q-tip over the crack to get water down into it. I then put a very thin layer of gorrila glue on the underside, and used dental floss to work the glue into the crack.

I then put two rows if five popsicle sticks in the op rod channel (as a brace so the clamp wouldn't crack it any more), clamped that sucker and let it sit overnight.

This evening, I used a pocketknife to very carefully scrape away the glue that foamed up out of the crack, and the excess glue in the barrel channel.

The end result:

The only downside was the dental floss pulled a small sliver off the top of the wood, otherwise there'd be no indication of the crack itself.

For those who can't see it, it's highlighted in red:

And just because I'm pretty proud of my first refinished stock, here's the before & after pics:

Link Posted: 3/27/2009 8:57:10 PM EDT
Fantastic job!
Link Posted: 3/28/2009 6:29:26 AM EDT
Wow, that looks good.
Link Posted: 3/28/2009 6:59:58 AM EDT
Link Posted: 3/28/2009 11:05:10 AM EDT

Tell me everything you know about the FR-8 and your restoration, thereof. This is, by far, the best looking FR-8 I've ever seen.
Link Posted: 3/28/2009 12:24:51 PM EDT
It is a 1954 La Coruna. I found it on consignment at a local shop for $300 2-3 years ago. It came with a brand new bayo, scabbard and sling. It has a very thick park job on it. All the markings under the park are good and sharp. The wood is the finest I have seen on a FR-8 for sure. It does show signs of sanding. There are no markings other than the crest, serial number and Cal 7.62 on the receiver. The last 5 digits of the serial are stamped on the top of the bolt handle as well as a four lobed stamp of some kind closer to the bolt body. What looks like a off center struck S on the opposite side of the bolt handle from the four lobe stamp. There is a Q stamped near the left side of the base of the 1/2 inch cylinder at the back of the bolt along with another of the four lobe stamps. There is a C and a four lobe in circle stamped on the magazine follower. There is a small 11 stamped in the stock behind the pistol grip and in front of the sling swivel. There is also the remains of a 1/4" wide circle stamp that is not readable any more from the sanding. There is a 1 in circle about 3/16" wide on the left flat of the stock just behind the receiver ring and a 3 on the right flat next to the receiver ring. From the discrete import mark under the barrel behind the flashhider it is a Century import. The only issue it had when I purchased it was failure to extract. I bought another extractor and installed it, leaving the old one in a baggie to be kept with the rifle. It shoots as good as my K31s from the bench. Using Port surplus I was able to shoot a 3" group at 100yds. It is a fine rifle that I have no regrets about buying.
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