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Posted: 3/8/2015 8:39:50 PM EDT
I just read an extensive article by RRDVegas that concluded you should pre-treat the internals on your .22 suppressors with brake fluid.  Sounds pretty convincing.  Has anybody else done this?

http://www.rrdvegas.com/silencer-cleaning.html

Link Posted: 3/8/2015 8:51:52 PM EDT
Read it too. Amazon has 500 ml of pure silicone oil for around $18.00. I placed an order for a bottle of the 350cst stuff (low viscosity) and we'll see what happens.
Link Posted: 3/8/2015 9:18:34 PM EDT
holy crap awesome find.  off to amazon as well.
Link Posted: 3/8/2015 9:41:45 PM EDT
Amazing. Thanks!
Link Posted: 3/8/2015 9:49:52 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By S1ug:
holy crap awesome find.  off to amazon as well.
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The guy in the article used Brake Fluid. I don't think high-grade, pure silicone oil is necessary.  I am also not convinced this is absolutely the way to go.  Silicone is hydrophobic and water beads up on it.  I am concerned that it will create corrosion issues.  In the picture I posted, it actually looks like there might be corrosion droplets, but I know they are titanium baffles, so it's confusing me.
Link Posted: 3/9/2015 12:34:56 AM EDT
Wondering if pre-treating a sealed silencer(5.56/7.62) would be be beneficial.
Link Posted: 3/9/2015 1:13:23 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/9/2015 2:10:24 AM EDT by Lay]
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Originally Posted By BadgerArms:

The guy in the article used Brake Fluid. I don't think high-grade, pure silicone oil is necessary.  I am also not convinced this is absolutely the way to go.  Silicone is hydrophobic and water beads up on it.  I am concerned that it will create corrosion issues.  In the picture I posted, it actually looks like there might be corrosion droplets, but I know they are titanium baffles, so it's confusing me.
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Originally Posted By BadgerArms:
Originally Posted By S1ug:
holy crap awesome find.  off to amazon as well.

The guy in the article used Brake Fluid. I don't think high-grade, pure silicone oil is necessary.  I am also not convinced this is absolutely the way to go.  Silicone is hydrophobic and water beads up on it.  I am concerned that it will create corrosion issues.  In the picture I posted, it actually looks like there might be corrosion droplets, but I know they are titanium baffles, so it's confusing me.

This is what I would be worried about with any can that has any sort of steel(stainless or otherwise) in it.

Edit: All but DOT5 brake fluid is hygroscopic(attracts water), keep this in mind if you are going to do this.
Link Posted: 3/9/2015 1:45:27 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By Lay:

This is what I would be worried about with any can that has any sort of steel(stainless or otherwise) in it.
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Originally Posted By Lay:
Originally Posted By BadgerArms:
Originally Posted By S1ug:
holy crap awesome find.  off to amazon as well.

The guy in the article used Brake Fluid. I don't think high-grade, pure silicone oil is necessary.  I am also not convinced this is absolutely the way to go.  Silicone is hydrophobic and water beads up on it.  I am concerned that it will create corrosion issues.  In the picture I posted, it actually looks like there might be corrosion droplets, but I know they are titanium baffles, so it's confusing me.

This is what I would be worried about with any can that has any sort of steel(stainless or otherwise) in it.

I'm confused, why would this be anything but a feature?  Hydrophobic means water repelling or water hating?
Link Posted: 3/9/2015 2:08:58 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By Saladman:

I'm confused, why would this be anything but a feature?  Hydrophobic means water repelling or water hating?
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Originally Posted By Saladman:
Originally Posted By S1ug:
holy crap awesome find.  off to amazon as well.
The guy in the article used Brake Fluid. I don't think high-grade, pure silicone oil is necessary.  I am also not convinced this is absolutely the way to go.  Silicone is hydrophobic and water beads up on it.  I am concerned that it will create corrosion issues.  In the picture I posted, it actually looks like there might be corrosion droplets, but I know they are titanium baffles, so it's confusing me.
This is what I would be worried about with any can that has any sort of steel(stainless or otherwise) in it.

I'm confused, why would this be anything but a feature?  Hydrophobic means water repelling or water hating?

Mixed up hygroscopic with hydrophobic as the topic was on brake fluid. Most brake fluid is hygroscopic, DOT5 is not as it has silicon in it. Keep this in mind if you are going that route.
Link Posted: 3/9/2015 2:39:18 AM EDT
Safe for aluminum cans, too. Most of the lines in a car filled with DOT 5 brake fluid are aluminum.
Link Posted: 3/9/2015 11:47:08 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/9/2015 11:48:27 AM EDT by BadgerArms]
Just did some research to get my terms figured out:

These two terms apply to surfaces of both solids and liquids:
Hydrophobic - repels water and causes it to form droplets on the surface.  Think rain on a freshly-waxed car. See this: http://chemwiki.ucdavis.edu/Physical_Chemistry/Physical_Properties_of_Matter/Bulk_Properties/Cohesive_And_Adhesive_Forces/Contact_Angles
Hydrophillic - attracts water and forms a sheet or sheen. A truly clean steel surface will not form droplets.  See this: http://www.ctgclean.com/tech-blog/2011/08/is-it-clean-oil-and-hydrophobic-films-water-break-test/

This term applies to liquids:
Hygroscopic - absorbs and forms a solution with water.  Non-Silicone brake fluid (anything but DOT5) is an example.

I did not find a term that describes a liquid that does not like water, but it would stand to reason that if said liquid repels water, the surface will be hydrophobic.  The level to which those surfaces repel water is what I think distinguishes them.  If you read the article on Water Break tests (which was the only one I was previously familiar with) you will see that if water does not bead on a surface, that means it is totally clean.

Back to reality.  You want the surface to be hydrophillic prior to treatment with the DOT-5 brake fluid.  Once treated, it will be Hydrophobic and should form neat, round beads of water on the surface.  Silicone should resist adhesion and heat well enough to act as a parting agent for lead and carbon fouling inside the can.

Link Posted: 3/10/2015 11:16:15 AM EDT
So what is the final decision on this? Picking up a new pilot 2 today.

Which dot fluid are you supposed to use? Anyone else done this?
Link Posted: 3/10/2015 1:09:09 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By gajeep94yj:
So what is the final decision on this? Picking up a new pilot 2 today.

Which dot fluid are you supposed to use? Anyone else done this?
View Quote

DOT 5 only.  Not 5.1, not 3, not 4.  DOT 5 is a minimum of 70% Silicone with other stuff like anti-foam agents, stabilizers, etc.  If you get pure silicone oil, it might work slightly better, but I don't see that as being much of a difference.  I plan on doing what the guy in the article did with a thorough cleaning, heat, and then soak in the brake fluid.  I do think that the brake fluid can be heated also, but I am thinking of a safe way of doing that.
Link Posted: 3/10/2015 1:29:38 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By BadgerArms:

DOT 5 only.  Not 5.1, not 3, not 4.  DOT 5 is a minimum of 70% Silicone with other stuff like anti-foam agents, stabilizers, etc.  If you get pure silicone oil, it might work slightly better, but I don't see that as being much of a difference.  I plan on doing what the guy in the article did with a thorough cleaning, heat, and then soak in the brake fluid.  I do think that the brake fluid can be heated also, but I am thinking of a safe way of doing that.
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Originally Posted By BadgerArms:
Originally Posted By gajeep94yj:
So what is the final decision on this? Picking up a new pilot 2 today.

Which dot fluid are you supposed to use? Anyone else done this?

DOT 5 only.  Not 5.1, not 3, not 4.  DOT 5 is a minimum of 70% Silicone with other stuff like anti-foam agents, stabilizers, etc.  If you get pure silicone oil, it might work slightly better, but I don't see that as being much of a difference.  I plan on doing what the guy in the article did with a thorough cleaning, heat, and then soak in the brake fluid.  I do think that the brake fluid can be heated also, but I am thinking of a safe way of doing that.


DOT 5 has a boiling point of 500F. Think of how hot it gets in your brake system - just throw it on the stove and put it on simmer.
Link Posted: 3/10/2015 2:10:09 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By gajeep94yj:
So what is the final decision on this? Picking up a new pilot 2 today.

Which dot fluid are you supposed to use? Anyone else done this?
View Quote


I have no idea.

But every time I read a post from you, I get locked in to staring at your avatar for five minutes.

Resume normal operations.
Link Posted: 3/10/2015 2:52:29 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By Engineer:


DOT 5 has a boiling point of 500F. Think of how hot it gets in your brake system - just throw it on the stove and put it on simmer.
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Originally Posted By Engineer:
Originally Posted By BadgerArms:
Originally Posted By gajeep94yj:
So what is the final decision on this? Picking up a new pilot 2 today.

Which dot fluid are you supposed to use? Anyone else done this?

DOT 5 only.  Not 5.1, not 3, not 4.  DOT 5 is a minimum of 70% Silicone with other stuff like anti-foam agents, stabilizers, etc.  If you get pure silicone oil, it might work slightly better, but I don't see that as being much of a difference.  I plan on doing what the guy in the article did with a thorough cleaning, heat, and then soak in the brake fluid.  I do think that the brake fluid can be heated also, but I am thinking of a safe way of doing that.


DOT 5 has a boiling point of 500F. Think of how hot it gets in your brake system - just throw it on the stove and put it on simmer.



Deep fryers are usually 335-375F.  Simmer????
Link Posted: 3/10/2015 7:45:25 PM EDT
I'd love to do this on my TiRant 9 baffles, but I'm not sure I can get all of the fouling off first.

I put a few hundred rounds thru before the first cleaning....and got most of the baffles clean scrubbing with a brush and scotch brite pad...
Link Posted: 3/10/2015 8:16:57 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By BullCityHeel:
I'd love to do this on my TiRant 9 baffles, but I'm not sure I can get all of the fouling off first.

I put a few hundred rounds thru before the first cleaning....and got most of the baffles clean scrubbing with a brush and scotch brite pad...
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I've got a pin tumbler.  Where you located?
Link Posted: 3/10/2015 8:21:24 PM EDT

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Originally Posted By BadgerArms:





I've got a pin tumbler.  Where you located?
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Originally Posted By BadgerArms:



Originally Posted By BullCityHeel:

I'd love to do this on my TiRant 9 baffles, but I'm not sure I can get all of the fouling off first.



I put a few hundred rounds thru before the first cleaning....and got most of the baffles clean scrubbing with a brush and scotch brite pad...


I've got a pin tumbler.  Where you located?
I would guess Durham...  

 
Link Posted: 3/10/2015 8:42:02 PM EDT
Just picked up my pilot 2 today. I may have to try this.
Link Posted: 3/11/2015 9:04:11 AM EDT

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Originally Posted By wildearp:
Deep fryers are usually 335-375F.  Simmer????
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Originally Posted By wildearp:



Originally Posted By Engineer:


Originally Posted By BadgerArms:


Originally Posted By gajeep94yj:

So what is the final decision on this? Picking up a new pilot 2 today.



Which dot fluid are you supposed to use? Anyone else done this?


DOT 5 only.  Not 5.1, not 3, not 4.  DOT 5 is a minimum of 70% Silicone with other stuff like anti-foam agents, stabilizers, etc.  If you get pure silicone oil, it might work slightly better, but I don't see that as being much of a difference.  I plan on doing what the guy in the article did with a thorough cleaning, heat, and then soak in the brake fluid.  I do think that the brake fluid can be heated also, but I am thinking of a safe way of doing that.




DOT 5 has a boiling point of 500F. Think of how hot it gets in your brake system - just throw it on the stove and put it on simmer.







Deep fryers are usually 335-375F.  Simmer????

Good thinking!  I have an old electric FryDaddy that I haven't used in years.   Maybe it will get resurrected.
 
Link Posted: 3/11/2015 11:41:18 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By jeremyt:

Good thinking!  I have an old electric FryDaddy that I haven't used in years.   Maybe it will get resurrected.
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Originally Posted By jeremyt:
Originally Posted By wildearp:
Deep fryers are usually 335-375F.  Simmer????

Good thinking!  I have an old electric FryDaddy that I haven't used in years.   Maybe it will get resurrected.

"Whatcha cookin, Dear?"

"Baffles!"
Link Posted: 3/11/2015 6:49:58 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/12/2015 10:41:36 AM EDT by benzo]
I would try this stuff. Silicone oil which is food safe used on treadmills.

I looked at the MSDS on DOT-5 brake fluid and wanted to look for other options.  Not sure how much could get blown back in the shooters eye/face but the price isn't that bad for the food grade stuff.

ETA: my bad, here is the link: http://www.amazon.com/G-MAX-Treadmill-Lubricant-Silicone-Oil/dp/B009T1L34S
Link Posted: 3/11/2015 7:54:36 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By benzo:
I would try this stuff. Silicone oil which is food safe used on treadmills.

I looked at the MSDS on DOT-5 brake fluid and wanted to look for other options.  Not sure how much could get blown back in the shooters eye/face but the price isn't that bad for the food grade stuff.
View Quote


What stuff?
Link Posted: 3/11/2015 8:04:28 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/11/2015 8:05:02 PM EDT by Engineer]


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Originally Posted By TSU45:
What stuff?
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Originally Posted By TSU45:





Originally Posted By benzo:


I would try this stuff. Silicone oil which is food safe used on treadmills.





I looked at the MSDS on DOT-5 brake fluid and wanted to look for other options.  Not sure how much could get blown back in the shooters eye/face but the price isn't that bad for the food grade stuff.






What stuff?





 
I think benzo is referring to pure silicone oil, something like this.







If you look at an MSDS for DOT-5 brake fluid, some of the other components are Tributylphosphate and Di-2-Ethythexyl Sebacate (yeesh, it's been awhile since orgo). Tributylphosphate is an eye and skin irritant, so I believe he's suggesting that pure silicone oil would be much better to use than DOT-5 brake fluid.


 
Link Posted: 3/11/2015 9:29:44 PM EDT
I know nothing about tumblers, but I'm interested in trying this method out. I have the Silencerco Sparrow SS. The can is 5 inches long. Do I need a $200-$300 tumbler to make this work or will a smaller, cheaper version work like one from Harbor freight & Tool? I don't mind buying a 5 lb. bag of stainless steel media.

Also, the Sparrow does not have a removable baffle stack, but is a single long piece with integrated baffles.What concerns me the the end of the can is also part of the baffle stack and might go from black to shiny metal in the tumbler.

Link Posted: 3/12/2015 12:46:31 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By Aaron556:
I know nothing about tumblers, but I'm interested in trying this method out. I have the Silencerco Sparrow SS. The can is 5 inches long. Do I need a $200-$300 tumbler to make this work or will a smaller, cheaper version work like one from Harbor freight & Tool? I don't mind buying a 5 lb. bag of stainless steel media.

Also, the Sparrow does not have a removable baffle stack, but is a single long piece with integrated baffles.What concerns me the the end of the can is also part of the baffle stack and might go from black to shiny metal in the tumbler.
View Quote

The the trick with heating up the metal and soaking it involves elementally pure steel surfaces.  You can't get that with a coated metal.  I am not familiar with the Sparrow.  I bought the Spectre II because of the baffle system.  I didn't want a Monocore because it limited my options.  The purpose of the pin tumbler is to clean all of the carbon and lead off of the baffles.  If you can clean the carbon and lead off of your monocore... however you do it... then you're golden.
Link Posted: 3/12/2015 8:29:38 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By BadgerArms:

The the trick with heating up the metal and soaking it involves elementally pure steel surfaces.  You can't get that with a coated metal.  I am not familiar with the Sparrow.  I bought the Spectre II because of the baffle system.  I didn't want a Monocore because it limited my options.  The purpose of the pin tumbler is to clean all of the carbon and lead off of the baffles.  If you can clean the carbon and lead off of your monocore... however you do it... then you're golden.
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Originally Posted By BadgerArms:
Originally Posted By Aaron556:
I know nothing about tumblers, but I'm interested in trying this method out. I have the Silencerco Sparrow SS. The can is 5 inches long. Do I need a $200-$300 tumbler to make this work or will a smaller, cheaper version work like one from Harbor freight & Tool? I don't mind buying a 5 lb. bag of stainless steel media.

Also, the Sparrow does not have a removable baffle stack, but is a single long piece with integrated baffles.What concerns me the the end of the can is also part of the baffle stack and might go from black to shiny metal in the tumbler.

The the trick with heating up the metal and soaking it involves elementally pure steel surfaces.  You can't get that with a coated metal.  I am not familiar with the Sparrow.  I bought the Spectre II because of the baffle system.  I didn't want a Monocore because it limited my options.  The purpose of the pin tumbler is to clean all of the carbon and lead off of the baffles.  If you can clean the carbon and lead off of your monocore... however you do it... then you're golden.


After reading the manual, it says "light abrasive material may be used". I'm wondering if anything besides steel pins in the tumbler would knock the lead/carbon off the baffles. The black finish of the monocore is black oxide and I'm not sure how that would hold up against the steel pin media. I tried "The Dip" one time and it worked wonderfully, but I have the toxic mess.

Has anyone tried Fireclean rather than Silicone as a pre-treatment?
Link Posted: 3/12/2015 9:14:36 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By Aaron556:
After reading the manual, it says "light abrasive material may be used". I'm wondering if anything besides steel pins in the tumbler would knock the lead/carbon off the baffles. The black finish of the monocore is black oxide and I'm not sure how that would hold up against the steel pin media. I tried "The Dip" one time and it worked wonderfully, but I have the toxic mess.

Has anyone tried Fireclean rather than Silicone as a pre-treatment?
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I think Fireclean has been debunked before, but I've never tried it.  There are ways to neutralize "the dip" I think.  If you read the whole article in the original post, he actually says something about Fireclean, I think.
Link Posted: 3/12/2015 12:43:36 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/12/2015 3:22:08 PM EDT by MrFluffaluffagus]
I recently received my Spectre II's and took them out for their initial christening. Sounds like I need to look into getting them cleaned up and trying this out on them. Thanks for the post OP

Quick question after reading through the article, how often should you be recoating the pieces? I saw that the author was using tumbled SS media for the final clean on the parts. Was this just during the test phase? If not, wouldn't the SS media strip out the coating eventually?
Link Posted: 3/17/2015 12:20:58 AM EDT
I am trying this now. Have the baffles from my Octane 9hd and a Kestrel 22 soaking in Dot 5. I heated them up to 250* in the oven.

I SS tumbled them then Diped them and tumbled them again so they we as clean as new. We will see how they turn out. Should be able to shoot them this weekend.

If this works as advertised I will do a short write up on it. I have found some interesting things about baffle cleaning so far.  

MAHA
Link Posted: 3/17/2015 9:12:49 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By Mahamotorworks:
I am trying this now. Have the baffles from my Octane 9hd and a Kestrel 22 soaking in Dot 5. I heated them up to 250* in the oven.

I SS tumbled them then Diped them and tumbled them again so they we as clean as new. We will see how they turn out. Should be able to shoot them this weekend.

If this works as advertised I will do a short write up on it. I have found some interesting things about baffle cleaning so far.  

MAHA
View Quote


My Kestrel 22 is also my test mule. I received my silicone oil order from amazon and treated the baffles (except I used a heat gun instead of the oven).

Hopefully I can make it out this weekend to shoot as well.
Link Posted: 3/17/2015 9:17:14 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By Engineer:


My Kestrel 22 is also my test mule. I received my silicone oil order from amazon and treated the baffles (except I used a heat gun instead of the oven).

Hopefully I can make it out this weekend to shoot as well.
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Originally Posted By Engineer:
Originally Posted By Mahamotorworks:
I am trying this now. Have the baffles from my Octane 9hd and a Kestrel 22 soaking in Dot 5. I heated them up to 250* in the oven.

I SS tumbled them then Diped them and tumbled them again so they we as clean as new. We will see how they turn out. Should be able to shoot them this weekend.

If this works as advertised I will do a short write up on it. I have found some interesting things about baffle cleaning so far.  

MAHA


My Kestrel 22 is also my test mule. I received my silicone oil order from amazon and treated the baffles (except I used a heat gun instead of the oven).

Hopefully I can make it out this weekend to shoot as well.

I'm excited.  One in DOT5 and another in Silicone oil.  We'll get to see if they show any appreciable difference and if they work.  I wonder about long-term durability of the treatment and how often, if at all, it needs to be reapplied


Link Posted: 3/17/2015 11:23:21 AM EDT
OST.
Link Posted: 3/18/2015 9:58:01 PM EDT
Small update.

Did one Kestrel by heating the baffles to 250* then dropping ithem into room temp Brake fluid and leaving them for 24 hours.  Initial results are positive to say the least.

Did my 2nd Kestrel by Heating the baffles and brake fluid at the same time to 250* and leaving them for 24 hours.

Will have an update whe nI get off of work tonight.

MAHA
Link Posted: 3/19/2015 9:14:19 AM EDT
Old school tag
Link Posted: 3/19/2015 10:07:24 AM EDT
I almost ordered the treadmill grease from Amazon but wanted to know if 8.5 oz is enough.

I'll wait to hear back on the results from others comparisons before moving forward.
Link Posted: 3/19/2015 1:22:03 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By MrFluffaluffagus:
I almost ordered the treadmill grease from Amazon but wanted to know if 8.5 oz is enough.

I'll wait to hear back on the results from others comparisons before moving forward.
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... you could do a 'dry run' with water.  Just measure 8.5 ounces of water and find a heat-proof container to submerge your baffles in.  Done!  Depending on your can, you might be able to run more than one batch of baffles or even do one at a time.  For a monocore and 8.5 ounces, an 1 1/4" steel pipe nipple and an end cap or two might give you a makeshift pipe-bomb-like treatment vessel.
Link Posted: 3/19/2015 1:26:34 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By BadgerArms:

... you could do a 'dry run' with water.  Just measure 8.5 ounces of water and find a heat-proof container to submerge your baffles in.  Done!  Depending on your can, you might be able to run more than one batch of baffles or even do one at a time.  For a monocore and 8.5 ounces, an 1 1/4" steel pipe nipple and an end cap or two might give you a makeshift pipe-bomb-like treatment vessel.
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Originally Posted By BadgerArms:
Originally Posted By MrFluffaluffagus:
I almost ordered the treadmill grease from Amazon but wanted to know if 8.5 oz is enough.

I'll wait to hear back on the results from others comparisons before moving forward.

... you could do a 'dry run' with water.  Just measure 8.5 ounces of water and find a heat-proof container to submerge your baffles in.  Done!  Depending on your can, you might be able to run more than one batch of baffles or even do one at a time.  For a monocore and 8.5 ounces, an 1 1/4" steel pipe nipple and an end cap or two might give you a makeshift pipe-bomb-like treatment vessel.


Thanks for the info, sometimes my mind misses the simplest of solutions
Link Posted: 3/19/2015 1:54:34 PM EDT
Im waiting on my first can (sparrow) so very interested in your findings.
Link Posted: 3/19/2015 2:11:51 PM EDT


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Originally Posted By BadgerArms:
I'm excited.  One in DOT5 and another in Silicone oil.  We'll get to see if they show any appreciable difference and if they work.  I wonder about long-term durability of the treatment and how often, if at all, it needs to be reapplied
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Originally Posted By BadgerArms:





Originally Posted By Engineer:




Originally Posted By Mahamotorworks:


I am trying this now. Have the baffles from my Octane 9hd and a Kestrel 22 soaking in Dot 5. I heated them up to 250* in the oven.





I SS tumbled them then Diped them and tumbled them again so they we as clean as new. We will see how they turn out. Should be able to shoot them this weekend.





If this works as advertised I will do a short write up on it. I have found some interesting things about baffle cleaning so far.  





MAHA






My Kestrel 22 is also my test mule. I received my silicone oil order from amazon and treated the baffles (except I used a heat gun instead of the oven).





Hopefully I can make it out this weekend to shoot as well.



I'm excited.  One in DOT5 and another in Silicone oil.  We'll get to see if they show any appreciable difference and if they work.  I wonder about long-term durability of the treatment and how often, if at all, it needs to be reapplied



Can't wait to see the outcome.
As a guy that has cooked with cast iron all his life (some handed down from generation), I can't believe this hasn't been thought of waaaay before now.


It's basically the same thing as seasoning a cast skillet to cook.    Sometimes the simplest things are the most overlooked.

As soon as my new ElementII gets out of jail I'm going to "season" my baffles.  




 
 
Link Posted: 3/19/2015 9:45:43 PM EDT
So I am in Class right now but will type and look like I am taking notes.

So I did the baffles in 2 different ways. Both suppressors were Huntertown Kestrel 22's with the SS Shielded baffles. I also treated the baffles for my Octane and Element.  The Octane was treated in the first batch, the Element was done in the 2nd batch.

The First the Baffles was heated to 250* in the oven for 39 min, then dropped into Room temp DOT 5 Brake fluid.  I left hem over night to cool and soak up the Fluid.  When I took them out and dried them off, you could feel the Silicone sticking to them.  Even when they were dry they were slick to the touch.  You could tell that the Silicon was into the metal.  

The 2nd batch was put into Room temp DOT 5 then put into the Oven and everything was heated to 250* for 45 min.  You could see bubbles coming from the baffles while they heated.  I pulled one of the baffles out of the DOT 5, after they had cooled enough to hold on to and it was slick but not as slick as the others.  I dropped it back into the DOT 5 and left them over night.  The next day they were as slick as the other baffles.  

Both ways are showing promise so far.  Due to a broken window I may not be able to get out to shoot them this weekend.

MAHA
Link Posted: 3/20/2015 1:08:16 PM EDT
Thanks for keeping this post updated with your findings.
Link Posted: 3/20/2015 1:35:59 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By Aaron556:
I know nothing about tumblers, but I'm interested in trying this method out. I have the Silencerco Sparrow SS. The can is 5 inches long. Do I need a $200-$300 tumbler to make this work or will a smaller, cheaper version work like one from Harbor freight & Tool? I don't mind buying a 5 lb. bag of stainless steel media.

Also, the Sparrow does not have a removable baffle stack, but is a single long piece with integrated baffles.What concerns me the the end of the can is also part of the baffle stack and might go from black to shiny metal in the tumbler.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-KdqBU6EwEAA/VQDrL2EUGpI/AAAAAAAASYg/VPUcuvK2-qE/s800/mpc-parts.png
View Quote

The harbor freight one should work, see the reloading forum for the mod to replace the drums with a large PVC tube for cheap if what you're tumbling is too long for the little black ones. Should be more than big enough for that thing.
Link Posted: 3/20/2015 4:59:54 PM EDT
Where can you find the Dot 5 silicone at?
I tried all the parts houses around here.
Didn't really want to order off Amazon
Link Posted: 3/20/2015 9:08:08 PM EDT
I also did this on my Kestrel .22s, and an innovative arms Lex9 today. Both kestrels are SS, one has the encapsulated baffles, one just regular K baffles. The Lex9 has aluminum baffles. I heated the baffles to 450* in the oven for about 30mins, then put into room temp DOT5 brake fluid (found locally at Auto Zone) until they cooled (about an hour or two).

My results were the same as others reported; after drying them, they are slick to the touch. You can feel the coating has adhered to the metal.  I also found that one of the kestrels didnt have all the lead off before hand, but it just flaked off using a dental pick after coating.

I plan to shoot through one tomorrow, and put at least 500 rounds of remington golden through it to see how easy clean-up will be.

Link Posted: 3/20/2015 9:43:24 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By We-rBorg:
Where can you find the Dot 5 silicone at?
I tried all the parts houses around here.
Didn't really want to order off Amazon
View Quote


I got mine at Oreillys Auto Parts.  I asked for it they only had 2 quarts on hand I took them both.  

MAHA
Link Posted: 3/20/2015 10:07:08 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By Mahamotorworks:


I got mine at Oreillys Auto Parts.  I asked for it they only had 2 quarts on hand I took them both.  

MAHA
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Originally Posted By Mahamotorworks:
Originally Posted By We-rBorg:
Where can you find the Dot 5 silicone at?
I tried all the parts houses around here.
Didn't really want to order off Amazon


I got mine at Oreillys Auto Parts.  I asked for it they only had 2 quarts on hand I took them both.  

MAHA


Can you please post a pic of the product or tell us the brand, make model and maybe sku?
Link Posted: 3/20/2015 11:06:52 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/20/2015 11:07:51 PM EDT by BadgerArms]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By seattlite:

Can you please post a pic of the product or tell us the brand, make model and maybe sku?
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By seattlite:
Originally Posted By Mahamotorworks:
I got mine at Oreillys Auto Parts.  I asked for it they only had 2 quarts on hand I took them both.

Can you please post a pic of the product or tell us the brand, make model and maybe sku?

32-ounce bottle at O'Reilly's

11-ounce bottle at O'Reilly's




Link Posted: 3/20/2015 11:29:40 PM EDT
Before I do this, is this 100% good to go for aluminum?  I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't be, but I've got to ask.  The plan is to do my Outback 2 that was just re-cored (monocore still brand new) and then clean my Prodigy and do that one too.
Link Posted: 3/21/2015 12:47:49 AM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By fordkicksass:
Before I do this, is this 100% good to go for aluminum?  I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't be, but I've got to ask.  The plan is to do my Outback 2 that was just re-cored (monocore still brand new) and then clean my Prodigy and do that one too.
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I honestly don't know. the kestrel baffles are SS not sure what type and the element and octane are 17-4.

I don't see why it would hurt AL. But I am not a metallurgist.

MAHA
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