User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 3/8/2015 8:39:50 PM EDT
I just read an extensive article by RRDVegas that concluded you should pre-treat the internals on your .22 suppressors with brake fluid. Sounds pretty convincing. Has anybody else done this?
http://www.rrdvegas.com/silencer-cleaning.html 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/8/2015 8:51:52 PM EDT
[#1]
Read it too. Amazon has 500 ml of pure silicone oil for around $18.00. I placed an order for a bottle of the 350cst stuff (low viscosity) and we'll see what happens.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/8/2015 9:18:34 PM EDT
[#2]
holy crap awesome find. off to amazon as well.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/8/2015 9:41:45 PM EDT
[#3]
Amazing. Thanks!
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/8/2015 9:49:52 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
holy crap awesome find. off to amazon as well. The guy in the article used Brake Fluid. I don't think high-grade, pure silicone oil is necessary. I am also not convinced this is absolutely the way to go. Silicone is hydrophobic and water beads up on it. I am concerned that it will create corrosion issues. In the picture I posted, it actually looks like there might be corrosion droplets, but I know they are titanium baffles, so it's confusing me. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/9/2015 12:34:56 AM EDT
[#5]
Wondering if pre-treating a sealed silencer(5.56/7.62) would be be beneficial.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/9/2015 1:13:23 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The guy in the article used Brake Fluid. I don't think high-grade, pure silicone oil is necessary. I am also not convinced this is absolutely the way to go. Silicone is hydrophobic and water beads up on it. I am concerned that it will create corrosion issues. In the picture I posted, it actually looks like there might be corrosion droplets, but I know they are titanium baffles, so it's confusing me. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
holy crap awesome find. off to amazon as well. The guy in the article used Brake Fluid. I don't think high-grade, pure silicone oil is necessary. I am also not convinced this is absolutely the way to go. Silicone is hydrophobic and water beads up on it. I am concerned that it will create corrosion issues. In the picture I posted, it actually looks like there might be corrosion droplets, but I know they are titanium baffles, so it's confusing me. This is what I would be worried about with any can that has any sort of steel(stainless or otherwise) in it. Edit: All but DOT5 brake fluid is hygroscopic(attracts water), keep this in mind if you are going to do this. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/9/2015 1:45:27 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This is what I would be worried about with any can that has any sort of steel(stainless or otherwise) in it. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
holy crap awesome find. off to amazon as well. The guy in the article used Brake Fluid. I don't think high-grade, pure silicone oil is necessary. I am also not convinced this is absolutely the way to go. Silicone is hydrophobic and water beads up on it. I am concerned that it will create corrosion issues. In the picture I posted, it actually looks like there might be corrosion droplets, but I know they are titanium baffles, so it's confusing me. This is what I would be worried about with any can that has any sort of steel(stainless or otherwise) in it. I'm confused, why would this be anything but a feature? Hydrophobic means water repelling or water hating? |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/9/2015 2:08:58 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm confused, why would this be anything but a feature? Hydrophobic means water repelling or water hating? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
holy crap awesome find. off to amazon as well. The guy in the article used Brake Fluid. I don't think high-grade, pure silicone oil is necessary. I am also not convinced this is absolutely the way to go. Silicone is hydrophobic and water beads up on it. I am concerned that it will create corrosion issues. In the picture I posted, it actually looks like there might be corrosion droplets, but I know they are titanium baffles, so it's confusing me. This is what I would be worried about with any can that has any sort of steel(stainless or otherwise) in it. I'm confused, why would this be anything but a feature? Hydrophobic means water repelling or water hating? Mixed up hygroscopic with hydrophobic as the topic was on brake fluid. Most brake fluid is hygroscopic, DOT5 is not as it has silicon in it. Keep this in mind if you are going that route. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/9/2015 2:39:18 AM EDT
[#9]
Safe for aluminum cans, too. Most of the lines in a car filled with DOT 5 brake fluid are aluminum.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/9/2015 11:47:08 AM EDT
[#10]
Just did some research to get my terms figured out:
These two terms apply to surfaces of both solids and liquids: Hydrophobic - repels water and causes it to form droplets on the surface. Think rain on a freshly-waxed car. See this: http://chemwiki.ucdavis.edu/Physical_Chemistry/Physical_Properties_of_Matter/Bulk_Properties/Cohesive_And_Adhesive_Forces/Contact_Angles Hydrophillic - attracts water and forms a sheet or sheen. A truly clean steel surface will not form droplets. See this: http://www.ctgclean.com/tech-blog/2011/08/is-it-clean-oil-and-hydrophobic-films-water-break-test/ This term applies to liquids: Hygroscopic - absorbs and forms a solution with water. Non-Silicone brake fluid (anything but DOT5) is an example. I did not find a term that describes a liquid that does not like water, but it would stand to reason that if said liquid repels water, the surface will be hydrophobic. The level to which those surfaces repel water is what I think distinguishes them. If you read the article on Water Break tests (which was the only one I was previously familiar with) you will see that if water does not bead on a surface, that means it is totally clean. Back to reality. You want the surface to be hydrophillic prior to treatment with the DOT-5 brake fluid. Once treated, it will be Hydrophobic and should form neat, round beads of water on the surface. Silicone should resist adhesion and heat well enough to act as a parting agent for lead and carbon fouling inside the can. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/10/2015 11:16:15 AM EDT
[#11]
So what is the final decision on this? Picking up a new pilot 2 today.
Which dot fluid are you supposed to use? Anyone else done this? |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/10/2015 1:09:09 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So what is the final decision on this? Picking up a new pilot 2 today. Which dot fluid are you supposed to use? Anyone else done this? DOT 5 only. Not 5.1, not 3, not 4. DOT 5 is a minimum of 70% Silicone with other stuff like anti-foam agents, stabilizers, etc. If you get pure silicone oil, it might work slightly better, but I don't see that as being much of a difference. I plan on doing what the guy in the article did with a thorough cleaning, heat, and then soak in the brake fluid. I do think that the brake fluid can be heated also, but I am thinking of a safe way of doing that. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/10/2015 1:29:38 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
DOT 5 only. Not 5.1, not 3, not 4. DOT 5 is a minimum of 70% Silicone with other stuff like anti-foam agents, stabilizers, etc. If you get pure silicone oil, it might work slightly better, but I don't see that as being much of a difference. I plan on doing what the guy in the article did with a thorough cleaning, heat, and then soak in the brake fluid. I do think that the brake fluid can be heated also, but I am thinking of a safe way of doing that. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
So what is the final decision on this? Picking up a new pilot 2 today. Which dot fluid are you supposed to use? Anyone else done this? DOT 5 only. Not 5.1, not 3, not 4. DOT 5 is a minimum of 70% Silicone with other stuff like anti-foam agents, stabilizers, etc. If you get pure silicone oil, it might work slightly better, but I don't see that as being much of a difference. I plan on doing what the guy in the article did with a thorough cleaning, heat, and then soak in the brake fluid. I do think that the brake fluid can be heated also, but I am thinking of a safe way of doing that. DOT 5 has a boiling point of 500F. Think of how hot it gets in your brake system - just throw it on the stove and put it on simmer. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/10/2015 2:10:09 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So what is the final decision on this? Picking up a new pilot 2 today. Which dot fluid are you supposed to use? Anyone else done this? I have no idea. But every time I read a post from you, I get locked in to staring at your avatar for five minutes. Resume normal operations. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/10/2015 2:52:29 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
DOT 5 has a boiling point of 500F. Think of how hot it gets in your brake system - just throw it on the stove and put it on simmer.
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
So what is the final decision on this? Picking up a new pilot 2 today. Which dot fluid are you supposed to use? Anyone else done this? DOT 5 only. Not 5.1, not 3, not 4. DOT 5 is a minimum of 70% Silicone with other stuff like anti-foam agents, stabilizers, etc. If you get pure silicone oil, it might work slightly better, but I don't see that as being much of a difference. I plan on doing what the guy in the article did with a thorough cleaning, heat, and then soak in the brake fluid. I do think that the brake fluid can be heated also, but I am thinking of a safe way of doing that. DOT 5 has a boiling point of 500F. Think of how hot it gets in your brake system - just throw it on the stove and put it on simmer.
Deep fryers are usually 335-375F. Simmer???? |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/10/2015 7:45:25 PM EDT
[#16]
I'd love to do this on my TiRant 9 baffles, but I'm not sure I can get all of the fouling off first.
I put a few hundred rounds thru before the first cleaning....and got most of the baffles clean scrubbing with a brush and scotch brite pad... |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/10/2015 8:16:57 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'd love to do this on my TiRant 9 baffles, but I'm not sure I can get all of the fouling off first. I put a few hundred rounds thru before the first cleaning....and got most of the baffles clean scrubbing with a brush and scotch brite pad... I've got a pin tumbler. Where you located? |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/10/2015 8:21:24 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've got a pin tumbler. Where you located? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I'd love to do this on my TiRant 9 baffles, but I'm not sure I can get all of the fouling off first. I put a few hundred rounds thru before the first cleaning....and got most of the baffles clean scrubbing with a brush and scotch brite pad... I've got a pin tumbler. Where you located?  |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/10/2015 8:42:02 PM EDT
[#19]
Just picked up my pilot 2 today. I may have to try this.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/11/2015 9:04:11 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Deep fryers are usually 335-375F. Simmer???? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: So what is the final decision on this? Picking up a new pilot 2 today. Which dot fluid are you supposed to use? Anyone else done this? DOT 5 only. Not 5.1, not 3, not 4. DOT 5 is a minimum of 70% Silicone with other stuff like anti-foam agents, stabilizers, etc. If you get pure silicone oil, it might work slightly better, but I don't see that as being much of a difference. I plan on doing what the guy in the article did with a thorough cleaning, heat, and then soak in the brake fluid. I do think that the brake fluid can be heated also, but I am thinking of a safe way of doing that. DOT 5 has a boiling point of 500F. Think of how hot it gets in your brake system - just throw it on the stove and put it on simmer. Deep fryers are usually 335-375F. Simmer???? Good thinking! I have an old electric FryDaddy that I haven't used in years. Maybe it will get resurrected. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/11/2015 11:41:18 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Good thinking! I have an old electric FryDaddy that I haven't used in years. Maybe it will get resurrected. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Deep fryers are usually 335-375F. Simmer???? Good thinking! I have an old electric FryDaddy that I haven't used in years. Maybe it will get resurrected. "Whatcha cookin, Dear?" "Baffles!" |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/11/2015 6:49:58 PM EDT
[#22]
I would try this stuff. Silicone oil which is food safe used on treadmills.
I looked at the MSDS on DOT-5 brake fluid and wanted to look for other options. Not sure how much could get blown back in the shooters eye/face but the price isn't that bad for the food grade stuff. ETA: my bad, here is the link: http://www.amazon.com/G-MAX-Treadmill-Lubricant-Silicone-Oil/dp/B009T1L34S |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/11/2015 7:54:36 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I would try this stuff. Silicone oil which is food safe used on treadmills. I looked at the MSDS on DOT-5 brake fluid and wanted to look for other options. Not sure how much could get blown back in the shooters eye/face but the price isn't that bad for the food grade stuff. What stuff? |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/11/2015 8:04:28 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What stuff? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I would try this stuff. Silicone oil which is food safe used on treadmills. I looked at the MSDS on DOT-5 brake fluid and wanted to look for other options. Not sure how much could get blown back in the shooters eye/face but the price isn't that bad for the food grade stuff. What stuff? I think benzo is referring to pure silicone oil, something like this. If you look at an MSDS for DOT-5 brake fluid, some of the other components are Tributylphosphate and Di-2-Ethythexyl Sebacate (yeesh, it's been awhile since orgo). Tributylphosphate is an eye and skin irritant, so I believe he's suggesting that pure silicone oil would be much better to use than DOT-5 brake fluid. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/11/2015 9:29:44 PM EDT
[#25]
I know nothing about tumblers, but I'm interested in trying this method out. I have the Silencerco Sparrow SS. The can is 5 inches long. Do I need a $200-$300 tumbler to make this work or will a smaller, cheaper version work like one from Harbor freight & Tool? I don't mind buying a 5 lb. bag of stainless steel media.
Also, the Sparrow does not have a removable baffle stack, but is a single long piece with integrated baffles.What concerns me the the end of the can is also part of the baffle stack and might go from black to shiny metal in the tumbler. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/12/2015 12:46:31 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I know nothing about tumblers, but I'm interested in trying this method out. I have the Silencerco Sparrow SS. The can is 5 inches long. Do I need a $200-$300 tumbler to make this work or will a smaller, cheaper version work like one from Harbor freight & Tool? I don't mind buying a 5 lb. bag of stainless steel media. Also, the Sparrow does not have a removable baffle stack, but is a single long piece with integrated baffles.What concerns me the the end of the can is also part of the baffle stack and might go from black to shiny metal in the tumbler. The the trick with heating up the metal and soaking it involves elementally pure steel surfaces. You can't get that with a coated metal. I am not familiar with the Sparrow. I bought the Spectre II because of the baffle system. I didn't want a Monocore because it limited my options. The purpose of the pin tumbler is to clean all of the carbon and lead off of the baffles. If you can clean the carbon and lead off of your monocore... however you do it... then you're golden. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/12/2015 8:29:38 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The the trick with heating up the metal and soaking it involves elementally pure steel surfaces. You can't get that with a coated metal. I am not familiar with the Sparrow. I bought the Spectre II because of the baffle system. I didn't want a Monocore because it limited my options. The purpose of the pin tumbler is to clean all of the carbon and lead off of the baffles. If you can clean the carbon and lead off of your monocore... however you do it... then you're golden. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I know nothing about tumblers, but I'm interested in trying this method out. I have the Silencerco Sparrow SS. The can is 5 inches long. Do I need a $200-$300 tumbler to make this work or will a smaller, cheaper version work like one from Harbor freight & Tool? I don't mind buying a 5 lb. bag of stainless steel media. Also, the Sparrow does not have a removable baffle stack, but is a single long piece with integrated baffles.What concerns me the the end of the can is also part of the baffle stack and might go from black to shiny metal in the tumbler. The the trick with heating up the metal and soaking it involves elementally pure steel surfaces. You can't get that with a coated metal. I am not familiar with the Sparrow. I bought the Spectre II because of the baffle system. I didn't want a Monocore because it limited my options. The purpose of the pin tumbler is to clean all of the carbon and lead off of the baffles. If you can clean the carbon and lead off of your monocore... however you do it... then you're golden. After reading the manual, it says "light abrasive material may be used". I'm wondering if anything besides steel pins in the tumbler would knock the lead/carbon off the baffles. The black finish of the monocore is black oxide and I'm not sure how that would hold up against the steel pin media. I tried "The Dip" one time and it worked wonderfully, but I have the toxic mess. Has anyone tried Fireclean rather than Silicone as a pre-treatment? |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/12/2015 9:14:36 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
After reading the manual, it says "light abrasive material may be used". I'm wondering if anything besides steel pins in the tumbler would knock the lead/carbon off the baffles. The black finish of the monocore is black oxide and I'm not sure how that would hold up against the steel pin media. I tried "The Dip" one time and it worked wonderfully, but I have the toxic mess. Has anyone tried Fireclean rather than Silicone as a pre-treatment? I think Fireclean has been debunked before, but I've never tried it. There are ways to neutralize "the dip" I think. If you read the whole article in the original post, he actually says something about Fireclean, I think. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/12/2015 12:43:36 PM EDT
[#29]
I recently received my Spectre II's and took them out for their initial christening. Sounds like I need to look into getting them cleaned up and trying this out on them. Thanks for the post OP
Quick question after reading through the article, how often should you be recoating the pieces? I saw that the author was using tumbled SS media for the final clean on the parts. Was this just during the test phase? If not, wouldn't the SS media strip out the coating eventually? |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/17/2015 12:20:58 AM EDT
[#30]
I am trying this now. Have the baffles from my Octane 9hd and a Kestrel 22 soaking in Dot 5. I heated them up to 250* in the oven.
I SS tumbled them then Diped them and tumbled them again so they we as clean as new. We will see how they turn out. Should be able to shoot them this weekend. If this works as advertised I will do a short write up on it. I have found some interesting things about baffle cleaning so far. MAHA |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/17/2015 9:12:49 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I am trying this now. Have the baffles from my Octane 9hd and a Kestrel 22 soaking in Dot 5. I heated them up to 250* in the oven. I SS tumbled them then Diped them and tumbled them again so they we as clean as new. We will see how they turn out. Should be able to shoot them this weekend. If this works as advertised I will do a short write up on it. I have found some interesting things about baffle cleaning so far. MAHA My Kestrel 22 is also my test mule. I received my silicone oil order from amazon and treated the baffles (except I used a heat gun instead of the oven). Hopefully I can make it out this weekend to shoot as well. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/17/2015 9:17:14 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My Kestrel 22 is also my test mule. I received my silicone oil order from amazon and treated the baffles (except I used a heat gun instead of the oven). Hopefully I can make it out this weekend to shoot as well. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I am trying this now. Have the baffles from my Octane 9hd and a Kestrel 22 soaking in Dot 5. I heated them up to 250* in the oven. I SS tumbled them then Diped them and tumbled them again so they we as clean as new. We will see how they turn out. Should be able to shoot them this weekend. If this works as advertised I will do a short write up on it. I have found some interesting things about baffle cleaning so far. MAHA My Kestrel 22 is also my test mule. I received my silicone oil order from amazon and treated the baffles (except I used a heat gun instead of the oven). Hopefully I can make it out this weekend to shoot as well. I'm excited. One in DOT5 and another in Silicone oil. We'll get to see if they show any appreciable difference and if they work. I wonder about long-term durability of the treatment and how often, if at all, it needs to be reapplied |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/17/2015 11:23:21 AM EDT
[#33]
OST.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/18/2015 9:58:01 PM EDT
[#34]
Small update.
Did one Kestrel by heating the baffles to 250* then dropping ithem into room temp Brake fluid and leaving them for 24 hours. Initial results are positive to say the least. Did my 2nd Kestrel by Heating the baffles and brake fluid at the same time to 250* and leaving them for 24 hours. Will have an update whe nI get off of work tonight. MAHA |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/19/2015 9:14:19 AM EDT
[#35]
Old school tag
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/19/2015 10:07:24 AM EDT
[#36]
I almost ordered the treadmill grease from Amazon but wanted to know if 8.5 oz is enough.
I'll wait to hear back on the results from others comparisons before moving forward. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/19/2015 1:22:03 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I almost ordered the treadmill grease from Amazon but wanted to know if 8.5 oz is enough. I'll wait to hear back on the results from others comparisons before moving forward. ... you could do a 'dry run' with water. Just measure 8.5 ounces of water and find a heat-proof container to submerge your baffles in. Done! Depending on your can, you might be able to run more than one batch of baffles or even do one at a time. For a monocore and 8.5 ounces, an 1 1/4" steel pipe nipple and an end cap or two might give you a makeshift pipe-bomb-like treatment vessel. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/19/2015 1:26:34 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
... you could do a 'dry run' with water. Just measure 8.5 ounces of water and find a heat-proof container to submerge your baffles in. Done! Depending on your can, you might be able to run more than one batch of baffles or even do one at a time. For a monocore and 8.5 ounces, an 1 1/4" steel pipe nipple and an end cap or two might give you a makeshift pipe-bomb-like treatment vessel. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I almost ordered the treadmill grease from Amazon but wanted to know if 8.5 oz is enough. I'll wait to hear back on the results from others comparisons before moving forward. ... you could do a 'dry run' with water. Just measure 8.5 ounces of water and find a heat-proof container to submerge your baffles in. Done! Depending on your can, you might be able to run more than one batch of baffles or even do one at a time. For a monocore and 8.5 ounces, an 1 1/4" steel pipe nipple and an end cap or two might give you a makeshift pipe-bomb-like treatment vessel. Thanks for the info, sometimes my mind misses the simplest of solutions 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/19/2015 1:54:34 PM EDT
[#39]
Im waiting on my first can (sparrow) so very interested in your findings.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/19/2015 2:11:51 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm excited. One in DOT5 and another in Silicone oil. We'll get to see if they show any appreciable difference and if they work. I wonder about long-term durability of the treatment and how often, if at all, it needs to be reapplied Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: I am trying this now. Have the baffles from my Octane 9hd and a Kestrel 22 soaking in Dot 5. I heated them up to 250* in the oven. I SS tumbled them then Diped them and tumbled them again so they we as clean as new. We will see how they turn out. Should be able to shoot them this weekend. If this works as advertised I will do a short write up on it. I have found some interesting things about baffle cleaning so far. MAHA My Kestrel 22 is also my test mule. I received my silicone oil order from amazon and treated the baffles (except I used a heat gun instead of the oven). Hopefully I can make it out this weekend to shoot as well. I'm excited. One in DOT5 and another in Silicone oil. We'll get to see if they show any appreciable difference and if they work. I wonder about long-term durability of the treatment and how often, if at all, it needs to be reapplied Can't wait to see the outcome. As a guy that has cooked with cast iron all his life (some handed down from generation), I can't believe this hasn't been thought of waaaay before now. It's basically the same thing as seasoning a cast skillet to cook. Sometimes the simplest things are the most overlooked. As soon as my new ElementII gets out of jail I'm going to "season" my baffles. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/19/2015 9:45:43 PM EDT
[#41]
So I am in Class right now but will type and look like I am taking notes.
So I did the baffles in 2 different ways. Both suppressors were Huntertown Kestrel 22's with the SS Shielded baffles. I also treated the baffles for my Octane and Element. The Octane was treated in the first batch, the Element was done in the 2nd batch. The First the Baffles was heated to 250* in the oven for 39 min, then dropped into Room temp DOT 5 Brake fluid. I left hem over night to cool and soak up the Fluid. When I took them out and dried them off, you could feel the Silicone sticking to them. Even when they were dry they were slick to the touch. You could tell that the Silicon was into the metal. The 2nd batch was put into Room temp DOT 5 then put into the Oven and everything was heated to 250* for 45 min. You could see bubbles coming from the baffles while they heated. I pulled one of the baffles out of the DOT 5, after they had cooled enough to hold on to and it was slick but not as slick as the others. I dropped it back into the DOT 5 and left them over night. The next day they were as slick as the other baffles. Both ways are showing promise so far. Due to a broken window I may not be able to get out to shoot them this weekend. MAHA |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/20/2015 1:08:16 PM EDT
[#42]
Thanks for keeping this post updated with your findings.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/20/2015 1:35:59 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I know nothing about tumblers, but I'm interested in trying this method out. I have the Silencerco Sparrow SS. The can is 5 inches long. Do I need a $200-$300 tumbler to make this work or will a smaller, cheaper version work like one from Harbor freight & Tool? I don't mind buying a 5 lb. bag of stainless steel media. Also, the Sparrow does not have a removable baffle stack, but is a single long piece with integrated baffles.What concerns me the the end of the can is also part of the baffle stack and might go from black to shiny metal in the tumbler. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-KdqBU6EwEAA/VQDrL2EUGpI/AAAAAAAASYg/VPUcuvK2-qE/s800/mpc-parts.png The harbor freight one should work, see the reloading forum for the mod to replace the drums with a large PVC tube for cheap if what you're tumbling is too long for the little black ones. Should be more than big enough for that thing. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/20/2015 4:59:54 PM EDT
[#44]
Where can you find the Dot 5 silicone at?
I tried all the parts houses around here. Didn't really want to order off Amazon |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/20/2015 9:08:08 PM EDT
[#45]
I also did this on my Kestrel .22s, and an innovative arms Lex9 today. Both kestrels are SS, one has the encapsulated baffles, one just regular K baffles. The Lex9 has aluminum baffles. I heated the baffles to 450* in the oven for about 30mins, then put into room temp DOT5 brake fluid (found locally at Auto Zone) until they cooled (about an hour or two).
My results were the same as others reported; after drying them, they are slick to the touch. You can feel the coating has adhered to the metal. I also found that one of the kestrels didnt have all the lead off before hand, but it just flaked off using a dental pick after coating. I plan to shoot through one tomorrow, and put at least 500 rounds of remington golden through it to see how easy clean-up will be. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/20/2015 9:43:24 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Where can you find the Dot 5 silicone at? I tried all the parts houses around here. Didn't really want to order off Amazon I got mine at Oreillys Auto Parts. I asked for it they only had 2 quarts on hand I took them both. MAHA |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/20/2015 10:07:08 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I got mine at Oreillys Auto Parts. I asked for it they only had 2 quarts on hand I took them both. MAHA Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Where can you find the Dot 5 silicone at? I tried all the parts houses around here. Didn't really want to order off Amazon I got mine at Oreillys Auto Parts. I asked for it they only had 2 quarts on hand I took them both. MAHA Can you please post a pic of the product or tell us the brand, make model and maybe sku? |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/20/2015 11:06:52 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Can you please post a pic of the product or tell us the brand, make model and maybe sku? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I got mine at Oreillys Auto Parts. I asked for it they only had 2 quarts on hand I took them both. Can you please post a pic of the product or tell us the brand, make model and maybe sku? 32-ounce bottle at O'Reilly's 11-ounce bottle at O'Reilly's 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/20/2015 11:29:40 PM EDT
[#49]
Before I do this, is this 100% good to go for aluminum? I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't be, but I've got to ask. The plan is to do my Outback 2 that was just re-cored (monocore still brand new) and then clean my Prodigy and do that one too.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/21/2015 12:47:49 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Before I do this, is this 100% good to go for aluminum? I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't be, but I've got to ask. The plan is to do my Outback 2 that was just re-cored (monocore still brand new) and then clean my Prodigy and do that one too. I honestly don't know. the kestrel baffles are SS not sure what type and the element and octane are 17-4. I don't see why it would hurt AL. But I am not a metallurgist. MAHA |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
