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10/20/2017 1:01:18 AM
9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 7/26/2005 1:36:01 PM EDT
I've been playing with my Century R1A1 (inch pattern) a little bit. I know everyone cringes when they hear about them, but mine shoots and functions very well, so I have no complaints. I bought one of the 3 hole FHs for cheap, and I have successfully removed the Century MB. The threads are still fine, and now I need to know how to get the FH to tighten all the way down, but still line up with the bayonet lug centered under the barrel. The FH and barrel do have the same threads, so that's not the main issue. I have a Tapco piston installed that wasn't in the rifle originally, so parts count still stands at 7--receiver, hammer, sear, buttstock and PG (both Ironwood), HG (still Century but working on it) and now piston. I've tried installing a crush washer up at the front, but it doesn't seem to be working. Do I need something special? If anyone can help, I'd appreciate it. Thanks
Link Posted: 7/26/2005 1:49:24 PM EDT
Where did you get the wood furniture from? New or used? I've been looking for my own R1A1.

Anyway, about the FH. Can you use some peel washers, and by trial and error, get it to index correctly?
Link Posted: 7/26/2005 2:03:17 PM EDT
check out the pics at the bottom of THIS THREAD & see if you're missing something
Link Posted: 7/26/2005 6:33:04 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/26/2005 6:35:26 PM EDT by dar48]
Thanks for the link. It looks like I'm missing the pin and the other piece that comes through the cut on the barrel. Next question is where do I find those? I may be able to make a substitute if I can't find a cheap and easy way to get the original parts. I have to find a way to get the crush washer out of the FH now--I worked hard to get it in, and it seems happy where it is.

80sgyrene--The stock is Ironwood designs. Both are the "seconds quality" but still look great. I paid a little over $50 for 2 compliance parts that are walnut. If you don't need US parts, I've actually got 2 Inch pattern butts I'm in the process of refinishing. There are bunches of places to get non-US wood parts for the L1A1 inch guns.
Link Posted: 7/26/2005 7:24:30 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/26/2005 7:26:13 PM EDT by TapperMan]
In addition to the pin and key for the retaining slot on the bottom of the barrel, you need an indexing washer that goes inside the FH. The washers come in various thicknesses so that the proper timing can be had. Gunthings.com has the parts you need:



Flash hider washer, only for inch type flashhiders, fits inside flashhider, available in different thicknesses. This indexes the flash hider so it aligns correctly with the key slot. $2.00
Flash hider key, for L1A1 flash hiders $3.00
Flash hider pin, for L1A1 flash hiders $3.00

Link Posted: 7/30/2005 7:32:30 AM EDT
I used JB Weld. It sounds dumb as hell, but it hasn't failed after seven years, and has given no indication that it ever will.

Just be real sure that you are putting on the muzzle device that you REALLY want.
Link Posted: 8/5/2005 9:32:59 PM EDT
In the spirit of the last reply, I used Brownell's fusion silver solder on my dad's. He wanted that FH and if it ever does need to come off, well, we can handle that, too.
Link Posted: 8/6/2005 6:09:37 AM EDT

Originally Posted By GySgtD:
I used JB Weld. It sounds dumb as hell, but it hasn't failed after seven years, and has given no indication that it ever will.

Just be real sure that you are putting on the muzzle device that you REALLY want.




Did your barrel still have threads? Or will jb weld work on a plain barrel?
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