Well, I've put in probably close to 500 rounds through my M1A now.  I still can't get the damn oprod out.  Anyway, while giving it a good cleaning and greasing today, I noticed that my barrel band is really starting to get loose.  I've heard people say in the past that SAI's bands seem to get kinda rickety.  I wouldn't say mine is "rickety" yet, but its noticeably loose.

Is there a way I can keep this from getting worse?  I'm also concerned that it could affect accuracy.  I'm not planning to shoot matches, but I do have an expection of accuracy, since this is my MBR.

it will degrade accuracy.  Best bet is to get a shim kit and castle nut pliers and put shims between the barrel shoulder and front band.

Perfectly normal on a standard issue M14, but as Spartacus pointed out, it's a downer for accuracy.  On a match rifle, the band is either glued and screwed or welded to the gas cylinder (the "unitized gas system").  A cheaper improvement (but not as robust) is to shim it.

Well, like I said, I don't plan to ever use this rifle in a match.  I do have expectations of accuracy, but not realistically, even if I had a gun that could shoot sub-moa, that's beyond my capacity anyway.  How bad is the rattling going to get?

Has anyone used one of those AGI gunsmithing videos?  I'm thinking about buying one of those to help me answer my newbie questions.

Haven't seen the videos, but the Scott Duff book "M14 Owner's Guide" is excellent.  There is also the Kuhnhausen manual which is ultra detailed, but it is geared more towards a trained gunsmith with a well equipped shop.

Shimming the gas cyl is easy and will cost you about $30 in parts assuming you have to buy a set of castle nut pliers.  About 15 minutes worth of work.  While you're at it, you could also tighten the fit of the gas cyl and the flash suppressor if they have any play.  Should make a somewhat noticible improvement in accuracy.  That way the barrel band will be in the same exact spot from one shot to the next.

I've done a little research.  It DOES look easy enough. I take it its necessary to remove the gas cylinder.  How hard is that to do?  

Quoted: I've done a little research.  It DOES look easy enough. I take it its necessary to remove the gas cylinder.  How hard is that to do?

The hard part is removing the castle nut wrench that holds the flash suppressor on -- it works a lot better if you remove the castle nut set screw first.

After removing the flash suppressor, removing the gas cylinder is easy -- slides right off once you remove the gas plug and twirl off the gas cylinder lock.

Quoted: Quoted: I've done a little research.  It DOES look easy enough. I take it its necessary to remove the gas cylinder.  How hard is that to do?   The hard part is removing the castle nut wrench that holds the flash suppressor on -- it works a lot better if you remove the castle nut set screw first. After removing the flash suppressor, removing the gas cylinder is easy -- slides right off once you remove the gas plug and twirl off the gas cylinder lock.

Ive tried 3 times (all separate by a few weeks/months) to remove the castle nut without removing the set screw first, it will make you mad when you realize why the nut doesnt budge, but after a few times you eventually remember to get your allen wrenches out first.

I take it the set screw is the screw below front sight post?

It's on the front side.
Agillig - the oprod went in - it WILL come back out.