Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login
Site Notices
1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 12/2/2001 10:30:20 AM EST
Anyone know how to properly break down and reassemble a Winchester Model 12 shotgun?

Mine's a 12 guage that we inherited from my father-in-law. I don't believe it's ever been broken down and cleaned before, or at least it hasn't under my watch. I made the mistake of trying to take out the magazine tube just before heading to the range. And, I can't get it back on. In fact, I really didn't take it down beyond getting the magazine tube to slide up the barrel a bit. Luckily (or not), there was a trap shoot at our range so we couldn't have shot anyway. But, we're going to try to get back out there tomorrow over noon hour, which means I have til tonight to get it back together.

Anyone have any info or a link to something on this? I've tried a search on the internet but haven't found anything so far. I'll keep trying.

Link Posted: 12/2/2001 1:07:12 PM EST

I have til about 10 p.m. tonight. If it ain't together, it ain't going to kill many clays tomorrow....
Link Posted: 12/2/2001 3:14:25 PM EST
This should get you started.

Cycle the action to cock the hammer and set the safety to on. Push the mag tube locking pin (near the front end of the tube) down (with the gun in firing position). Pull the pin out 'til it stops, and rotate the mag tube CCW 1/4 turn. If it's really crusty, you may have to loosen the barrel/mag tube clamp slightly.

Pull the mag tube forward until it stops. Move the action slide and fore-end forward until it stops, rotate the barrel and mag assembly 1/4 turn CCW (looking from the front). Remove the assembly toward the front.

Remove the vertical screw behind the trigger housing. Tip the trigger housing downward at the rear, then pull the housing down and rearward.

Further dis-assembly is fairly complicated, you should have a book to reference, at least the first time.

When re-assembling look for an index mark on the action end of the mag tube. It should line up with the arrow on the underside of the receiver.
Link Posted: 12/2/2001 4:03:37 PM EST

Thanks for your reply! I'm going to print it out and give it a shot right now.

But the problem when I try to reassemble the mag tube is that I can get it pushed back ok, and see the witness mark (arrow) 1/4 turn to the left. I just CANNOT get that tube to screw the 1/4 turn necessary to lock it back into place. It won't even start.

I think I'll try to tear everything down per your instructions, clean it all and lube it up. I'll let you know how it goes.

Anything special I need to do prior to screwing the mag tube back into place? I.e., action closed, open, safety on/off, etc.?

Thanks again!
Link Posted: 12/3/2001 2:43:43 PM EST
To re-assemble: action closed, safety on. (I'm not sure that it matters - that's just the way I've always done it.) :)

When you're trying the rotate the mag tube and engage the square threads, try exerting a little pressure on the outer end of the mag tube, pressing it back toward the receiver slightly. The mag spring is trying to force the mag tube away from the receiver, and although it can only 'push' less than 1/16" (the amount the spring follower protrudes from the mag tube) it's enough to get the square threads offset a bit. Sometimes if you push too hard, it will offset the threads in the other direction and they still won't engage. It's a 'by feel' thing - right in the middle.
Link Posted: 12/3/2001 3:35:04 PM EST
Is that the model 12 that if you keep the trigger pulled/depressed you can shoot them as fast as you can pump 'em ?...
Link Posted: 12/3/2001 4:57:03 PM EST
Well, I used the basic instructions posted here and on TFL and managed to get it broken down (though I couldn't get the bolt out of the receiver), cleaned and back together. I notice today at the range that I think I put the magazine tube cap retaining pin (it has two screws to hold it in as well) backwards. It wasn't going anywhere and the magazine tube wasn't twisting out, so I shot it as is with the intention to switch it later.

Basically, got everything cleaned up, removed the magazine plug and it shoots great! What an incredible clay gun! It has a 30" barrel with full choke, so I can really get the long ones. Though I've only shot clays (or even shotguns!) a handfull of times and am still perfecting my techinique.

One problem that I had (even before tinkering with it) is the rounds don't like to stay in the magazine tube. They rest on the "gate" (sorry, I don't know shotgun terminology) and when I try to put another round it, I have to keep them all from popping out. Basically, if I pushed the gate up, they'd all come straight out. My friend's Rem. 870 has a little spring loaded tab to hold them in there, if that helps. My Model 12 doesn't have anything like that.

Anyone have any ideas?
Link Posted: 12/4/2001 4:43:07 PM EST
[Last Edit: 12/4/2001 4:36:26 PM EST by RichWV]
Taking a page from MicroSoft, that's not a problem, it's feature. :)

That's the way they work. Over time you'll learn to use the next shell to open the gate and hold the magazined shells back,
simultaneously inserting it into the mag.

bolt - yes, it is.

Edited for bolt.
Link Posted: 12/4/2001 5:48:56 PM EST
But mine still feeds like crap. When I'm cycling the action, it stops as the rounds hitting the chamber. I have to release pressure on the foregrip momentarily to give the round a chance to pop up or otherwise set itself and then run it home.

Is cruddy feeding also a "feature?" I thought the poor feeding might have something to do with the rounds popping back too far.

Thanks for all your help Rich! I don't know much about this gun, or the history or Model 12's. Anything you can tell me about them would be appreciated!
Link Posted: 12/9/2001 10:23:34 AM EST
Ordinarily the M12 is dead reliable. Any given example though could be up to 90 years old. There may be a worn part(s) to deal with.

The shell carrier, which raises the shell into postion to enter the chamber, rests on top of the magazine loading gate. From a full-retract position, ease the forearm forward slowly. Looking into the ejection port you should see the carrier rising, along with the loading gate, and it should finish with its forward end nearly level with bottom of the chamber - sort of a moving feed ramp. The carrier should begin to rise *exactly* when the bolt starts forward, and should be at full height just as the bolt face reaches the rear of the ejection port. If your carrier stops more than, say, 1/8" below the chamber bottom, my guess is that the carrier is bent or the carrier/bolt interface is worn. Sounds like a trip to a gunsmith may be in your future.
Link Posted: 12/9/2001 12:00:53 PM EST
Thanks Rich, you've been a great help!!
Link Posted: 12/9/2001 2:25:33 PM EST
Yes bolt, you can hose 'em down with the model 12. When you have to clear a room the model 12 is like a sore dick; hard to beat!
Link Posted: 12/9/2001 4:27:59 PM EST
[Last Edit: 12/9/2001 4:22:48 PM EST by Corey]
Does the bolt automatically release the trigger at some point during it's return?

I'd like to think that it has to be controlled somehow.

EDITED to say poor wording on my part. By "release the trigger" I mean "disengage a disconnector allowing the cocked striker/hammer to fall when the trigger is held to the rear." Or something like that.
Link Posted: 12/9/2001 5:34:47 PM EST
I'm not sure if the firing pin is released on closing the action when the trigger is pulled or if it slam fires. I just know you can go through a whole lot of ammo using this technique with a model 12.
Link Posted: 12/9/2001 8:41:06 PM EST
[Last Edit: 12/9/2001 8:35:02 PM EST by 199]
Maybe this will help:

Link Posted: 12/10/2001 4:47:11 PM EST
Thanks 199!!
Top Top