Get a box of the wallyworld brake parts cleaner (6 cans), disassemble the gun as far as you feel comfortable going, hang everything up (I use an old tube rack suspended from my garage ceiling) with metal coat hangers or tig rod if you can get it free.  

Degrease EVERYTHING, hit parts with a heat gun to aid in evap-ing the cleaner and sweat out any oil/grease hiding in creases.  Degrease again, keep going until everything is dry as a bone.  

If you are going to sandblast the gun, make sure you take out every moving part including the firing pin/spring, everything.  the grit will get into and behind everything and make your gun sound like you are grinding every surface inside it.  After blasting, degrease again let it dry, then you are ready to paint.  

Make sure you mix it good, adjust compressor for about 30psi out, and have at it.  Also make sure that the humidity in your area is not too high, I don't like to spray over 50%, so my time to spray is very limited.  

After you are done painting, wait at least an hour and if your parts are small enough and your wife isn't home, hang from top rack of the oven and bake for 1 hour @110 or 1/2 hour @ 180.  Allow to cool, and reassemble.  

Here is a couple pics of a Remington 1100 that I just finished last night for my dad, base coat of Underbrush, Sniper Green stripes, then covered with a coffee table "doily"(sp?) and hit with matte black to give it a little break up.  So what do you think?







Hope this helped,
Chris

Quoted: Get a box of the wallyworld brake parts cleaner (6 cans), disassemble the gun as far as you feel comfortable going, hang everything up (I use an old tube rack suspended from my garage ceiling) with metal coat hangers or tig rod if you can get it free.   Degrease EVERYTHING, hit parts with a heat gun to aid in evap-ing the cleaner and sweat out any oil/grease hiding in creases.  Degrease again, keep going until everything is dry as a bone.   If you are going to sandblast the gun, make sure you take out every moving part including the firing pin/spring, everything.  the grit will get into and behind everything and make your gun sound like you are grinding every surface inside it.  After blasting, degrease again let it dry, then you are ready to paint.   Make sure you mix it good, adjust compressor for about 30psi out, and have at it.  Also make sure that the humidity in your area is not too high, I don't like to spray over 50%, so my time to spray is very limited.   After you are done painting, wait at least an hour and if your parts are small enough and your wife isn't home, hang from top rack of the oven and bake for 1 hour @110 or 1/2 hour @ 180.  Allow to cool, and reassemble.   Here is a couple pics of a Remington 1100 that I just finished last night for my dad, base coat of Underbrush, Sniper Green stripes, then covered with a coffee table "doily"(sp?) and hit with matte black to give it a little break up.  So what do you think? i88.photobucket.com/albums/k186/icanmakethatshot/1100007.jpg i88.photobucket.com/albums/k186/icanmakethatshot/1100005.jpg i88.photobucket.com/albums/k186/icanmakethatshot/1100004.jpg Hope this helped, Chris

+1 But use GunKote.  Its more durable and more resistant to comon gun cleaners. www.kgcoatings.com/gunkote.html

I used 2 good base coats of the grey looking color called Undrbrush, free handed the green stripes, and used a doilly for the patern.

Chris

I used brake cleaner also. But, I found it did not get everything. I went over the gun with a rag soaked in laquer thinner. Some extra dirt came out of the tight spaces.

Boil those gun parts over the grill in an old pot with a mixture of TSP (hardware store) and water.  TSP is tri sodium phosphate and will clean everything right out.

Blast.

Boil again.

After you do any kind of de-grease procedure,  soak it awhile in rubbing alcohol.  This tip is to remove any residual film and fingerprints and smuges.  

Dry / Evap  everything in the oven and you're ready to paint.

Since its a pistol and not a rifle thats sometimes too large to fit into an oven, id suggest GunKoting it.   But you already have Duracoat on its way.

Heres a good tip.  Dont assemble and cycle the action on that pistol UNTIL that DC is cured.  This can take up to a couple weeks.  Otherwise it will come off at the contact points/rails.    And that doesnt look professional at all.