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Posted: 4/16/2018 6:11:57 PM EDT
I just installed an Accu-Strut LT to my 1985 Mini-14. I am hesitant to install the red locktighted set screws to the gas block base because I don't want to have to take a heating torch to remove them later. I have used blue lock tight on the vertical struts. Is it absolutely necessary to use the small set screws to attach the strut to the gas block?

pic
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Link Posted: 4/16/2018 7:57:43 PM EDT
Not a torch... a heat gun.

Much like a blow dryer, but much hotter!
Link Posted: 4/16/2018 8:01:45 PM EDT
Link Posted: 4/16/2018 8:01:58 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By DasRonin:
Not a torch... a heat gun.

Much like a blow dryer, but much hotter!
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Given how heavy this has made the mini, I'm not sure I want to keep it on there, hence the question.
Link Posted: 4/16/2018 8:02:44 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By raf:

If you don't attach the thing as it was designed to be attached, then it will not work as designed.

So, yes, you must use the screws on the gas block.
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Damn. What about using blue instead of red?
Link Posted: 4/17/2018 4:30:28 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/17/2018 5:06:54 AM EDT by raf]
Link Posted: 4/17/2018 4:32:11 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/17/2018 4:37:06 AM EDT by raf]
Link Posted: 4/17/2018 9:54:54 AM EDT
EagleArmsHBAR, nice OE straight 20rd mag. I've got 5 of them and they perform flawlessly. Even better than my 5 Ruger brand curved 20rd mags I got with my newer style, 583 series Mini because they have a welded on lug to engage the mag catch vice the bent flange the Ruger mags have.

As to your question on the set screws locking your Accu-Strut to the gas block, as you can see, I have the SOCOM version that's lighter and as it only has 1 clamp, I also drilled in a small dimple on each side to allow the set screws to bite into the gas block as it's supported by only a single clamp. However, I didn't use any locktite on it; I just keep an eye on it to make sure they stay tight. As you have 2 sets of clamps because you're barrel is the thinner, pencil version that needs the stiffening support of the 2 clamps, the set screws don't have to support the tube but only keep it from moving fore and aft. I'd dimple the gas block where the set screws contact it and call it good.

Link Posted: 4/17/2018 10:25:21 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/17/2018 10:26:36 AM EDT by EagleArmsHBAR]
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Originally Posted By COSteve:
EagleArmsHBAR, nice OE straight 20rd mag. I've got 5 of them and they perform flawlessly. Even better than my 5 Ruger brand curved 20rd mags I got with my newer style, 583 series Mini because they have a welded on lug to engage the mag catch vice the bent flange the Ruger mags have.

As to your question on the set screws locking your Accu-Strut to the gas block, as you can see, I have the SOCOM version that's lighter and as it only has 1 clamp, I also drilled in a small dimple on each side to allow the set screws to bite into the gas block as it's supported by only a single clamp. However, I didn't use any locktite on it; I just keep an eye on it to make sure they stay tight. As you have 2 sets of clamps because you're barrel is the thinner, pencil version that needs the stiffening support of the 2 clamps, the set screws don't have to support the tube but only keep it from moving fore and aft. I'd dimple the gas block where the set screws contact it and call it good.

https://i.imgur.com/39j2Tdw.jpg
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Thanks for the input! I agree that the the magazine looks great, but it has not been working well in my newer Mini-14. I have not tried it in this rifle yet, but I do have a Ruger follower incoming that I will install and hope that fixes the function issues. I am not a fan of permanent changes to rifles, but I guess I will dimple the gas block tonight and use blue loctite on the set screws. One thing I have noticed is that with the added front weight of the strut, the Mini-14 loses some of its appeal since it does not balance or handle as well.
Link Posted: 4/17/2018 10:26:47 AM EDT
Link Posted: 4/17/2018 10:29:20 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/17/2018 4:36:54 PM EDT by EagleArmsHBAR]
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Originally Posted By raf:

Intending no offense to above poster, I do not suggest the use of the single-clamp SOCOM AccuStrut. Although it is lighter than the standard version, the two-bracket model far greater rigidity than the single-clamp unit. Look at the SOCOM version; the point where it attaches to gas block becomes a vertical pivot, whereas the two-clamp model avoids such pivot point by use of second clamp nearest the gas block. I didn't bother doing so when mounting my XDrill strut, but it can do no harm, and likely some good, to drill a couple of divots for the screws on the strut which attach to the gas block.

If you wish to make the most of it, use the two-clamp XDrill AccuStrut. More rigidity than the SOCOM; less weight than standard model.

Again, no offense intended.
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I appreciate the advice on the XDrill Accu-Strut, but I am not a fan of the barrel shroud look.
Link Posted: 4/17/2018 6:53:50 PM EDT
Link Posted: 4/17/2018 11:14:57 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By raf:

"Barrel shroud look"? Don't understand. Please elaborate.
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Google Mini-14 barrel shroud and you'll see what I mean. I ended up removing the red loctite, dimpled the gas block, and installed the set screws with blue loctite.
Link Posted: 4/18/2018 11:47:02 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By raf:

Intending no offense to above poster, I do not suggest the use of the single-clamp SOCOM AccuStrut. Although it is lighter than the standard version, the two-bracket model far greater rigidity than the single-clamp unit. Look at the SOCOM version; the point where it attaches to gas block becomes a vertical pivot, whereas the two-clamp model avoids such pivot point by use of second clamp nearest the gas block. I didn't bother doing so when mounting my XDrill strut, but it can do no harm, and likely some good, to drill a couple of divots for the screws on the strut which attach to the gas block.

If you wish to make the most of it, use the two-clamp XDrill AccuStrut. More rigidity than the SOCOM; less weight than standard model.

Again, no offense intended.
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First, no offense taken.

Second, I have a 583 series Mini and it comes with a thicker and therefore, stiffer barrel that doesn't need the strut for stiffening. As I've said over and over in this forum, it's for the 'M-14 look' and as a heat sink, not for stiffening. Barrel heating is always a concern and the use of the SOCOM length version along with a Choate HG with it's vastly superior cooling capability over the stock Ruger HG significantly reduces barrel heating.
Link Posted: 4/18/2018 11:49:54 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By EagleArmsHBAR:
Google Mini-14 barrel shroud and you'll see what I mean. I ended up removing the red loctite, dimpled the gas block, and installed the set screws with blue loctite.
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We understand what a Mini-14 with a barrel shroud looks like but the Accu-Strut with holes doesn't go around the barrel, it goes under it so I guess some of us are puzzled by your use of that analogy. Whatever, dimpling the gas block and then blue locktite is the way to go so you should be set.
Link Posted: 4/18/2018 1:05:22 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By COSteve:

We understand what a Mini-14 with a barrel shroud looks like but the Accu-Strut with holes doesn't go around the barrel, it goes under it so I guess some of us are puzzled by your use of that analogy. Whatever, dimpling the gas block and then blue locktite is the way to go so you should be set.
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My point was that i don't like barrel shrouds on Mini-14s, or anything that looks like a barrel shroud. The pics of the xDrill strut looks like a barrel shroud mounted under the barrel.
Link Posted: 4/19/2018 9:23:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/19/2018 9:24:50 PM EDT by raf]
Link Posted: 4/19/2018 9:39:24 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/19/2018 10:05:35 PM EDT by raf]
Link Posted: 4/20/2018 10:09:11 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/20/2018 10:14:13 AM EDT by COSteve]
Increased thermal mass slows barrel heating and increased surface area allows for more rapid cooling. I'm sure your approach works for you, I just like the look of mine. To me, the front of the Mini looks funny without something. It might be aesthetics, but I'm fond of the look as it mimics my M1A quite well now.

BTW, you're lucky with cryo treating your Mini. A number of people on PerfectUnion.com have tried that with their Minis and reported poor results. Further, 6 people I personally know at our shooting club have cryo'd their ARs as part of an attempt to accurise them for our CMP shoots and all 6 say the effort didn't produce any better results. None the less, it's supposed to work so I'm glad it did for you.
Link Posted: 4/20/2018 2:34:10 PM EDT
Link Posted: 4/21/2018 12:09:06 PM EDT
Poor results in that they claim it was a waste of money because it did nothing. Not my claim, theirs. I have no bone to pick, just relaying what they said to me.
Link Posted: 4/21/2018 4:21:20 PM EDT
Link Posted: 4/21/2018 7:04:58 PM EDT
To answer the question above, 3 guys with older, good condition Minis and 6 guys with new ARs. I'm not the one saying it didn't work for them, they are. I can say that the guys I know who used it were and are smart enough to ensure that they addressed any other accuracy problems like bad muzzle crowns, etc. as well before they cryo'd them. Cryo'ng was a big thing at our range (private club with some 1,100 members, 95% of them engineers BTW) a few years back but it didn't show to be especially helpful so it's died out as of late. However, it appears that your mileage did vary so good on you that it worked out well.
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