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Posted: 10/25/2009 5:22:30 PM EST
I have had my AAC M4 2000 for a few months now. It works awesome on my SBR. However, on my 16" AR I am having issues. When I tighten it all the way it is inbetween locking notches on the flash hider. When the suppressor is firmly in place it shoots where I have it zeroed, but when it loosens up and the latch catches in on the locking notch, I get a shift of 2 in. down and 2 in. left in point of impact at 100 yards. Has anyone else experienced this?

I was really frustrating this weekend. When shooting at 400 yards, I was dead on and then all of the sudden I couldn't hit the target due to the suppressor loosing up.

Thanks,

RMW59
Link Posted: 10/26/2009 12:21:22 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/26/2009 12:21:55 AM EST by Green0]
Link Posted: 10/26/2009 4:06:35 PM EST
At $100 per flash hider that would get expensive quick. It seems to me that AAC should be shipping these suppressors with mounts that are timed correctly.

I was thinking of buying an SPR/M4 in 6.8, but if I'm going to get the same sort of issues, I'll look elsewhere.
Link Posted: 10/26/2009 5:27:45 PM EST
Contact AAC...silencertalk.com is one easy way...i'm sure they will make it right.
Link Posted: 10/27/2009 4:00:29 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/27/2009 5:12:39 AM EST by Green0]
Link Posted: 10/27/2009 3:12:45 PM EST
Originally Posted By RMW59:
At $100 per flash hider that would get expensive quick. It seems to me that AAC should be shipping these suppressors with mounts that are timed correctly.

I was thinking of buying an SPR/M4 in 6.8, but if I'm going to get the same sort of issues, I'll look elsewhere.


The M4 uses the Miter system so you have your choice of 5 positions to figure out the least zero shift. Just don't get Green0 started on the mount system though.
Link Posted: 10/27/2009 3:29:37 PM EST
Originally Posted By beavo451:
Originally Posted By RMW59:
At $100 per flash hider that would get expensive quick. It seems to me that AAC should be shipping these suppressors with mounts that are timed correctly.

I was thinking of buying an SPR/M4 in 6.8, but if I'm going to get the same sort of issues, I'll look elsewhere.


The M4 uses the Miter system so you have your choice of 5 positions to figure out the least zero shift. Just don't get Green0 started on the mount system though.


I thought only the SPR did that?
Link Posted: 10/27/2009 4:31:37 PM EST
SPR/M4
Link Posted: 10/27/2009 5:54:40 PM EST
Originally Posted By Eagle106:
Originally Posted By beavo451:
Originally Posted By RMW59:
At $100 per flash hider that would get expensive quick. It seems to me that AAC should be shipping these suppressors with mounts that are timed correctly.

I was thinking of buying an SPR/M4 in 6.8, but if I'm going to get the same sort of issues, I'll look elsewhere.


The M4 uses the Miter system so you have your choice of 5 positions to figure out the least zero shift. Just don't get Green0 started on the mount system though.


I thought only the SPR did that?


As far as I know, only the SPR/M4 and Scar H-SD have the Miter system. I wish the M4-2000 had it.
Link Posted: 10/29/2009 8:38:43 AM EST
Originally Posted By beavo451:
Originally Posted By RMW59:
At $100 per flash hider that would get expensive quick. It seems to me that AAC should be shipping these suppressors with mounts that are timed correctly.

I was thinking of buying an SPR/M4 in 6.8, but if I'm going to get the same sort of issues, I'll look elsewhere.


The M4 uses the Miter system so you have your choice of 5 positions to figure out the least zero shift. Just don't get Green0 started on the mount system though.


You also should UNtighten the mount so it cant untighten and then it wont tighten itself either.
Link Posted: 10/29/2009 9:41:50 AM EST
Originally Posted By DevL:


You also should UNtighten the mount so it cant untighten and then it wont tighten itself either.


Do this.


Link Posted: 10/29/2009 4:30:43 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/29/2009 4:46:47 PM EST by RMW59]
Originally Posted By DevL:
Originally Posted By beavo451:
Originally Posted By RMW59:
At $100 per flash hider that would get expensive quick. It seems to me that AAC should be shipping these suppressors with mounts that are timed correctly.

I was thinking of buying an SPR/M4 in 6.8, but if I'm going to get the same sort of issues, I'll look elsewhere.


The M4 uses the Miter system so you have your choice of 5 positions to figure out the least zero shift. Just don't get Green0 started on the mount system though.


You also should UNtighten the mount so it cant untighten and then it wont tighten itself either.


Untighten the mount so it can't untighten - Now there's an idea. Loose suppressor may = baffle strike.

Seriously, it's not the mount that is coming loose. The suppressor is coming loose from the mount because when tightened all the way, the suppressor is inbetween locking notches on the flash hider.

Still no response back from anyone at AAC.
Link Posted: 10/29/2009 7:14:11 PM EST
Originally Posted By RMW59:
Originally Posted By DevL:
Originally Posted By beavo451:
Originally Posted By RMW59:
At $100 per flash hider that would get expensive quick. It seems to me that AAC should be shipping these suppressors with mounts that are timed correctly.

I was thinking of buying an SPR/M4 in 6.8, but if I'm going to get the same sort of issues, I'll look elsewhere.


The M4 uses the Miter system so you have your choice of 5 positions to figure out the least zero shift. Just don't get Green0 started on the mount system though.


You also should UNtighten the mount so it cant untighten and then it wont tighten itself either.


Untighten the mount so it can't untighten - Now there's an idea. Loose suppressor may = baffle strike.
Seriously, it's not the mount that is coming loose. The suppressor is coming loose from the mount because when tightened all the way, the suppressor is inbetween locking notches on the flash hider.

Still no response back from anyone at AAC.



Tighten it all the way then back it off one tooth till it latches. It will not cause baffle strikes.
Link Posted: 10/30/2009 3:48:42 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/30/2009 3:51:15 AM EST by DevL]
The 51 tooth MITER mounts are almost NEVER fully tight and MITER mounts wont allows the threads to hold it closed tight by thread pressure. I untighten my suppressor mount (the one on the back of my SPR/M4) so that it wont untighten further nor will it tighten on the flash hider mount. The flash hider is Rockset in place it obviously has no bearing on what wea re discussing. This is normal for the SPR/M4. I dont appreciate the wisecracks when I am just trying to help you understand something. I will avoid doing it in the future. POI shifts are normal for the M4-2000. You learn to dial in the weapon of your shift suppressed/unsuppressed. People who dont want to do that get an SPR/M4.
Link Posted: 10/30/2009 4:00:10 AM EST
Its interesting that his thread on the other site is sitting with zero responses...
Link Posted: 10/30/2009 6:46:13 AM EST
Originally Posted By Gthirteen:
Its interesting that his thread on the other site is sitting with zero responses...


what other site?
Link Posted: 10/30/2009 7:18:03 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/30/2009 7:18:42 AM EST by fulautotank]
[/quote]Tighten it all the way then back it off one tooth till it latches. It will not cause baffle strikes. [/quote]

This

I have 3 M4-2000's, let it lock on the last notch fully engaged.

Link Posted: 10/30/2009 7:35:11 PM EST
Originally Posted By fulautotank:
Tighten it all the way then back it off one tooth till it latches. It will not cause baffle strikes. [/quote]

This

I have 3 M4-2000's, let it lock on the last notch fully engaged.

[/quote]

When you back your M4-2000's off one tooth do your suppressors rattle? On my 16" rifle, the M4-2000 actually rattles when I back it off to the first locking notch. On my SBR, when I loosen it back to the next locking notch it is still rock solid.

I still have received no response from AAC.
Link Posted: 10/30/2009 10:02:12 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/30/2009 10:02:56 PM EST by Glock63]
Try tightening your can as far as possible, then firing about 3-4 rounds. This heats things up, and allowed me to get it past that last tooth to tighten fully. After doing that a few times, it now indexes to that tooth even when cold and is completely tight.
Link Posted: 10/31/2009 1:55:51 PM EST
Originally Posted By Glock63:
Try tightening your can as far as possible, then firing about 3-4 rounds. This heats things up, and allowed me to get it past that last tooth to tighten fully. After doing that a few times, it now indexes to that tooth even when cold and is completely tight.


Thanks for the advice. I'll give that a shot.
Link Posted: 11/2/2009 9:15:56 AM EST
I have an older m4 2000 and when i first got it.. i got a 1/4" shift left and down also .. ar 25 yards! It is not shift adjustable so i just dialed my gun to it.. no problems since then.. also a 16" bbl ..
Link Posted: 11/2/2009 8:17:15 PM EST
I went out shooting again tired a few different things.

1. I tried to tighten the suppressor and then back it off to the first notch. My groups opened up from sub 3/4" at 100 yards to 3"-4" at 100 yards when the suppressor was shot loose. When the m4-2000 wobbles like mine does at that first notch, accuracy suffers significantly.

2. I tried shooting a few rounds and then tires to tighten the suppressor to the next locking notch and was unable to do so.

3. I fired a few magazines to see if some carbon would build up to make the suppressor tighter. There was no noticeable difference in how tight the suppressor mounted.

AAC still has not responded to any of my messages.
Link Posted: 11/3/2009 2:42:00 AM EST

Originally Posted By RMW59:
I went out shooting again tired a few different things.

1. I tried to tighten the suppressor and then back it off to the first notch. My groups opened up from sub 3/4" at 100 yards to 3"-4" at 100 yards when the suppressor was shot loose. When the m4-2000 wobbles like mine does at that first notch, accuracy suffers significantly.

2. I tried shooting a few rounds and then tires to tighten the suppressor to the next locking notch and was unable to do so.

3. I fired a few magazines to see if some carbon would build up to make the suppressor tighter. There was no noticeable difference in how tight the suppressor mounted.

AAC still has not responded to any of my messages.

Call them on the phone? Or is that how you have been attempting to make contact?


Advanced Armament Corp.
1434 Hillcrest Road
Norcross, GA 30093
U.S.A.

Office: 770.925.9988
Link Posted: 11/3/2009 7:59:15 AM EST

Originally Posted By fulautotank:
Tighten it all the way then back it off one tooth till it latches. It will not cause baffle strikes.


This

I have 3 M4-2000's, let it lock on the last notch fully engaged.


+1

I responded on TOS as well. If you're worried about baffle strikes, take a apart your rifle and look through the receiver and down the barrel. Mount your suppressor and play around with the flex the can has when mounted on a clean flash hider... you won't get baffle strikes.

And like i said, carbon build up with remove any play mighty quick. I'm not a fan of carbon build up though, as it's a PITA to remove from the flashhider if you don't like the look of it.
Link Posted: 11/4/2009 3:43:38 AM EST
Link Posted: 11/4/2009 6:27:47 PM EST
Originally Posted By jackal2001:
I have an M4-2K Mod '07. This was the year of the redesign. I have the same issue where if I tighten it all the way it doesn't engage the last tooth. Back then I asked on silencer talk and the response was "Tighten it fully and back it off until it fully engages the last tooth." It may have a tiny bit of play or wobble, but is perfectly normal and you shouldn't get any baffle strikes. I always do this and I am fine.


My biggest issue with the wobble now, is that it is causing my groups to open up significantly. Shooting with the suppressor loose makes my 16" AR15 that is normally a 3/4" gun become the least accurate rifle that I own with some 100 yard groups in the 3" to 4" range.
Link Posted: 11/4/2009 7:15:15 PM EST

Originally Posted By RMW59:
Originally Posted By jackal2001:
I have an M4-2K Mod '07. This was the year of the redesign. I have the same issue where if I tighten it all the way it doesn't engage the last tooth. Back then I asked on silencer talk and the response was "Tighten it fully and back it off until it fully engages the last tooth." It may have a tiny bit of play or wobble, but is perfectly normal and you shouldn't get any baffle strikes. I always do this and I am fine.


My biggest issue with the wobble now, is that it is causing my groups to open up significantly. Shooting with the suppressor loose makes my 16" AR15 that is normally a 3/4" gun become the least accurate rifle that I own with some 100 yard groups in the 3" to 4" range.

Hmm, what year was your can? What type of rifle are you shooting, and what type of ammunition are you using?

I've had good luck with my Mod 08 M4-2K shooting out both my 14.5" N4 and 18" SPR not affecting inherent accuracy. The 14.5" has a slight shift, and on the 18" I get something of a 4" drop of POI. Overall group sizes remain the same though. This is with firing factory 75 gr Privi Partizan.
Link Posted: 11/4/2009 9:02:36 PM EST
Originally Posted By BadassWeakling:

Originally Posted By RMW59:
Originally Posted By jackal2001:
I have an M4-2K Mod '07. This was the year of the redesign. I have the same issue where if I tighten it all the way it doesn't engage the last tooth. Back then I asked on silencer talk and the response was "Tighten it fully and back it off until it fully engages the last tooth." It may have a tiny bit of play or wobble, but is perfectly normal and you shouldn't get any baffle strikes. I always do this and I am fine.


My biggest issue with the wobble now, is that it is causing my groups to open up significantly. Shooting with the suppressor loose makes my 16" AR15 that is normally a 3/4" gun become the least accurate rifle that I own with some 100 yard groups in the 3" to 4" range.

Hmm, what year was your can? What type of rifle are you shooting, and what type of ammunition are you using?

I've had good luck with my Mod 08 M4-2K shooting out both my 14.5" N4 and 18" SPR not affecting inherent accuracy. The 14.5" has a slight shift, and on the 18" I get something of a 4" drop of POI. Overall group sizes remain the same though. This is with firing factory 75 gr Privi Partizan.


Using a Larue Stealth 16" upper, ammo is personal reloads that produce .75" groups with the suppressor off. POI shifts a few inches when mounting a suppressor on my 16". POI shift while not ideal is liveable.

The SBR I built has a Noveske 10.5" barrel. The suppressor locks up solid on it. POI shift is minimal when mounting the M4-2000 to the SBR.

I believe the dealer received it from AAC in March of this year. So that should make it a Mod 08.

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