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Link Posted: 1/14/2013 12:45:09 AM EDT
Nice I claim page 3.00
Link Posted: 1/14/2013 1:02:24 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/14/2013 1:03:19 AM EDT by Stage_X_Tuning]
Wrong post
Link Posted: 1/14/2013 8:30:50 AM EDT
Originally Posted By AnthonyL:
Originally Posted By guitarmaniak:

I picked up my chop saw from Harbor Freight and cut down about 50 or so .223 brass. I set up my Lee Anniversary press and loaded the resizing die into it as I've seen in all the videos I've watched. Now, here's where I'm stuck; when I try to raise the case into the die it just doesn't feel right.


After chopping the brass and before putting it through your resizing die did you first debur and chamfer the cases?  If not I bet that is your problem, the die is getting snagged and likely damaged by the rough edge on the case mouth left by the chop saw.

I have the exact same mini chop saw, and each case gets touched by the debur/chamfer tool then into the full length sizing die.  I've used Hornady Unique wax case lube with great results.  However for the sake of time with larger batches I switched to Hornady One-Shot case lube and had zero issues, most cases resize with little to no effort.


I agree.

What case lube are you using? If its Hornady one shot shake the piss out of the can for a min or so before using it. Then press the trigger for a second or two before spraying the cases.

Did you also lube the sizer die? Are the cases going into the die? Sometimes they want to stick on the bottom of the die and you have to help it in.
Link Posted: 1/14/2013 8:29:50 PM EDT
I have chamfered and debured all the cases. I applied some lube more generously on a case and was able to form more of the shoulder than before. I think part of my problem might be that I don't have the press screwed down onto the bench. It's just clamped on since I'm in the process of making myself a new work bench. I must just not be getting enough leverage.
Link Posted: 1/14/2013 8:35:51 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/14/2013 8:43:09 PM EDT by 4719DAVE]
Okay guys dont beat me up to hard lol  I have  spikes 16''ss carbine  barrel     the gun will cycle fine with  stock remington 115 gr  factory ammo.But when i shoot OR TRY to shoot 220.gr factory ammo it  wont cycle bolt back to pu another round..... Is this because im not running a can yet .......OH YA JB WELD I LOVE YOU.........
Originally Posted By utiadam:
Thought I would share some pictures of my process.

starting with once fired brass...
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj18/utiadam/P10367371_zpsc955fa85.jpg
I use a Harbor Freight mini chop saw
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj18/utiadam/IMG_0972.jpg
Cut the cases right at the start of the shoulder
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj18/utiadam/P1036746_zps4bb3f69b.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj18/utiadam/P1036743_zpse30549ff.jpg
size, decap, trim
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj18/utiadam/IMG_1657_zpsfedb245d.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj18/utiadam/IMG_0973.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj18/utiadam/P1036750_zps98438750.jpg
dont have pics of swaging or reaming but you get the idea
finally stainless tumbling
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj18/utiadam/P1036751_zps32d2655b.jpg

The reason for using the chop saw is because Dillon will not warranty the trimmer if you use it to cut the full amount in one pass.


Link Posted: 1/14/2013 8:58:14 PM EDT
Originally Posted By guitarmaniak:
I have chamfered and debured all the cases. I applied some lube more generously on a case and was able to form more of the shoulder than before. I think part of my problem might be that I don't have the press screwed down onto the bench. It's just clamped on since I'm in the process of making myself a new work bench. I must just not be getting enough leverage.


How much does the press move around?
Link Posted: 1/14/2013 8:59:03 PM EDT
Originally Posted By 4719DAVE:
Okay guys dont beat me up to hard lol  I have  spikes 16''ss carbine  barrel     the gun will cycle fine with  stock remington 115 gr  factory ammo.But when i shoot OR TRY to shoot 220.gr factory ammo it  wont cycle bolt back to pu another round..... Is this because im not running a can yet .......OH YA JB WELD I LOVE YOU.........
Originally Posted By utiadam:
Thought I would share some pictures of my process.

starting with once fired brass...
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj18/utiadam/P10367371_zpsc955fa85.jpg
I use a Harbor Freight mini chop saw
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj18/utiadam/IMG_0972.jpg
Cut the cases right at the start of the shoulder
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj18/utiadam/P1036746_zps4bb3f69b.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj18/utiadam/P1036743_zpse30549ff.jpg
size, decap, trim
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj18/utiadam/IMG_1657_zpsfedb245d.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj18/utiadam/IMG_0973.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj18/utiadam/P1036750_zps98438750.jpg
dont have pics of swaging or reaming but you get the idea
finally stainless tumbling
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj18/utiadam/P1036751_zps32d2655b.jpg

The reason for using the chop saw is because Dillon will not warranty the trimmer if you use it to cut the full amount in one pass.




Are the 220's Sub sonics or supers?
Link Posted: 1/14/2013 9:34:13 PM EDT
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:
Originally Posted By guitarmaniak:
I have chamfered and debured all the cases. I applied some lube more generously on a case and was able to form more of the shoulder than before. I think part of my problem might be that I don't have the press screwed down onto the bench. It's just clamped on since I'm in the process of making myself a new work bench. I must just not be getting enough leverage.


How much does the press move around?


Not a whole lot. I just lubed up another case and tried again. I pressed it into the die as much as I could while holding the press so that it didn't move at all. It created a little more of the shoulder this time, and I can tell that the primer has been pushed out a little. I'm going to wait to try it again until I can mount the press properly. If that's not the issue then I don't know what is.

Could it be the brass I'm using? It's just some plain Remmington that I got from the gun store a while back.

Link Posted: 1/14/2013 9:43:57 PM EDT
good stuff thanks.
Link Posted: 1/14/2013 10:02:05 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/14/2013 10:02:58 PM EDT by AnthonyL]
Originally Posted By guitarmaniak:


Could it be the brass I'm using? It's just some plain Remmington that I got from the gun store a while back.



Highly unlikely, I've converted all kinds of random range pickup brass from .223 to .300BLK.  

My advice, get the press properly mounted and start again.  Also, did you disassemble the die completely, and thoroughly clean all the components inside and out before use?  If not that can also cause an issue, as the anti-rust added to the parts from the factory will actually jam up the brass if not cleaned out.

I highly recommend Hornady One-Shot lube and gun cleaner (different than the case lube) for this purpose.  It removes all the grease and dirt, and then leaves behind a thin coat of lubricant after it dries.
Link Posted: 1/14/2013 10:13:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/1/2013 2:00:41 PM EDT by dryflash3]
Link Posted: 1/14/2013 10:28:37 PM EDT
Originally Posted By guitarmaniak:
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:
Originally Posted By guitarmaniak:
I have chamfered and debured all the cases. I applied some lube more generously on a case and was able to form more of the shoulder than before. I think part of my problem might be that I don't have the press screwed down onto the bench. It's just clamped on since I'm in the process of making myself a new work bench. I must just not be getting enough leverage.


How much does the press move around?


Not a whole lot. I just lubed up another case and tried again. I pressed it into the die as much as I could while holding the press so that it didn't move at all. It created a little more of the shoulder this time, and I can tell that the primer has been pushed out a little. I'm going to wait to try it again until I can mount the press properly. If that's not the issue then I don't know what is.

Could it be the brass I'm using? It's just some plain Remmington that I got from the gun store a while back.



What lube are your using?

I know if I spray one shot on the case and put it in the die right away it is tighter than crap. If I wait a little bit and let it dry, it works fine.
Link Posted: 1/14/2013 10:46:45 PM EDT
I'm using this right here: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/482023/lee-case-sizing-lube-2-oz-tube

I put a dab on my finger and rubbed it around the top of the case, and then put a little inside as well.

I debured and chamfered all the cases using this: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/389104/lee-chamfer-and-deburring-tool

Rubbing my finger around the mouth of the case I can't feel any burrs or rough spots.
Link Posted: 1/14/2013 10:51:06 PM EDT
What about taking apart and cleaning he dies?
Link Posted: 1/15/2013 5:20:11 PM EDT
Originally Posted By AnthonyL:
What about taking apart and cleaning he dies?


I will try that when I get home. Can I use generic lube for that? I have some at the house and Midway is out of the one you suggested.

Also, I just got in some Sierra 165gr bullets. Anyone have any load data for them? I can't seem to find any online...
Link Posted: 1/15/2013 6:31:59 PM EDT
Originally Posted By guitarmaniak:
Originally Posted By AnthonyL:
What about taking apart and cleaning he dies?


I will try that when I get home. Can I use generic lube for that? I have some at the house and Midway is out of the one you suggested.

Also, I just got in some Sierra 165gr bullets. Anyone have any load data for them? I can't seem to find any online...


Got any brake cleaner in the garage?  If so use that to hose them down to remove any sign of factory grease.  Make sure not to get it on any rubber bushings if you dies have them (remove the bushings, clean, and reassemble).

Run them clean (lube on the brass obviously!), but hose down with some thin light lube sooner than later or you will start to get rust.
Link Posted: 1/15/2013 6:54:40 PM EDT
I have brake cleaner by the case at work and some spray lube probably. I did manage to bolt my press to the table I was using. I was able to actually form a couple pieces of brass and pop out the primers. Some of the brass have these little crimp marks by the primer and are stamped LC which I asume stands for Lake City. Do I need to do anything special to these, or can I go ahead and place another primer in it?
Link Posted: 1/15/2013 7:01:19 PM EDT
Originally Posted By guitarmaniak:
Originally Posted By AnthonyL:
What about taking apart and cleaning he dies?


I will try that when I get home. Can I use generic lube for that? I have some at the house and Midway is out of the one you suggested.

Also, I just got in some Sierra 165gr bullets. Anyone have any load data for them? I can't seem to find any online...


Just look at the charts listed on page 1. Find your powder and find a bullet close to the same weight.
Link Posted: 1/15/2013 7:03:27 PM EDT
Originally Posted By guitarmaniak:
I have brake cleaner by the case at work and some spray lube probably. I did manage to bolt my press to the table I was using. I was able to actually form a couple pieces of brass and pop out the primers. Some of the brass have these little crimp marks by the primer and are stamped LC which I asume stands for Lake City. Do I need to do anything special to these, or can I go ahead and place another primer in it?


You will have to remove the crimp. They make many tools to remove the primer crimp. I use a Dillon Super Swage 600 Link
Link Posted: 1/15/2013 11:27:41 PM EDT
Link Posted: 1/16/2013 2:10:32 PM EDT
I'll be reloading the 230 grain lead bullets molded using the Lee mold and using Lil Gun powder for starters.  The BNH of the bullets should be around 12-13 based on the calculator someone pointed me to from castboolits.com, and of course they'll be subs.  From what I've read, the recommended load for a 220 grain bullet is 9.0 grains of Lil Gun.  Since I'm using 230's, should I use the same amount, more, or less?  I'd rather not grenade my upper, so if anyone has any recommendations, I'd love to hear it.



Thanks.



Still waiting on the press to get here as well as the powder, but at least I've got the dies, case gauge, case lube, bullet lube, and a few other odds and ends (lead pot, lots of lead, linotype, and wheel weights, etc.)
Link Posted: 1/16/2013 2:11:44 PM EDT
TAG
Link Posted: 1/16/2013 2:12:08 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/17/2013 9:12:45 PM EDT by abpt1]
damn phone...sorry for the DT



 
Link Posted: 1/16/2013 6:13:23 PM EDT
Ok... so being the retard that I am I just accidentally bought some H110 pistol powder for my 300 blackout loads. I was so excited to finally get the last component of my reloading station that I saw h100 and grabbed it without checking the bottle. SO, my question is: is pistol powder the same as rifle??
Link Posted: 1/16/2013 6:14:40 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/16/2013 6:24:06 PM EDT by guitarmaniak]
Originally Posted By dryflash3:


Please don't clog up this thread with beginner reloading questions.  

Start your own thread and ask. Thanks.


I thought it was stupid to ask that in this thread, but when I asked in my own thread I was told post it here. You might want to get all the moderators on the same page then, because every time I ask something related to 300 blackout reloading they tell me to post it on this thread.
Link Posted: 1/16/2013 6:25:39 PM EDT
Originally Posted By guitarmaniak:
Ok... so being the retard that I am I just accidentally bought some H110 pistol powder for my 300 blackout loads. I was so excited to finally get the last component of my reloading station that I saw h100 and grabbed it without checking the bottle. SO, my question is: is pistol powder the same as rifle??


The H110 from hodgdon is a pistol powder that is used in the 300BLK. As long as what you bought is from hodgdon and says H110 on it you are good to go.
Link Posted: 1/16/2013 9:58:11 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/1/2013 2:02:37 PM EDT by dryflash3]
Link Posted: 1/16/2013 10:13:17 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/16/2013 10:14:43 PM EDT by angus6]
Question time, since I dislike deburring will this work,

stage 2 deprime
stage 3 swage
stage 6 size and trim

chop them in cut-off

finish on a Gracey trimmer and thoughts on repowering the trimmer and skipping the cut-off saw
Link Posted: 1/17/2013 9:27:32 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/17/2013 9:30:29 PM EDT by aviserated1]
Today I formed some more 300 Blackout (300Whisper) by expanding the necks of 221 Fireball cases. My Redding 300/221 Fireball came with two expander buttons(5mm to 7mm and 6mm to .308). While expanding the necks, I did notice the expander button was chattering. This told me I was not using enough lube inside necks. So I then switched to the Imperial Dry Neck lube and chattering went away. Case neck forming (expanding) is lots smoother using this stuff.



http://www.midwayusa.com/product/319390/imperial-dry-neck-lube-1-oz-powder





...
Link Posted: 1/17/2013 10:06:40 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/1/2013 2:03:08 PM EDT by dryflash3]
Link Posted: 1/17/2013 10:21:18 PM EDT
yea, if you are gonna form your own cases you just need to accept the fact there is gonna be a bit of work involved.  I do it like so:


 1:  tumble brass

 2:  cut to initial length with chop saw

 3:  debur the freshly cut case

 4:   lube case and run through the sizing die

 5:   accomplish any primer pocket work that needs to be done: ream, clean, uniform...whatever it needs

 6:  final case trim...now it's time for the precision work

 7:  debur and chamfer the case mouth

 8:  back into the tumble for final cleaning, this removes lube and whatever else that got picked up in the processes

 9:  inspect and remove fod from the flash holes...now is when I do any kind of sorting that I may want to do as well

10:  prime and load or store prepped cases for later.

this list is not all inclusive and does not indicate the amount of inspecting that I do as I complete the processes.  but it goes to show that you do have work to do.  I must admit that I do enjoy working with the 300 Black as I have found that it is a very rewarding round.  Goos results seem to be very easy to obtain...at least from what I have done so far...with the exception of bullets in the middle of the load range...I have no real use for those any way.
Link Posted: 1/17/2013 10:59:03 PM EDT
Link Posted: 1/17/2013 11:11:12 PM EDT



Originally Posted By guitarmaniak:



Originally Posted By AnthonyL:

What about taking apart and cleaning he dies?




I will try that when I get home. Can I use generic lube for that? I have some at the house and Midway is out of the one you suggested.



Also, I just got in some Sierra 165gr bullets. Anyone have any load data for them? I can't seem to find any online...


The best bet for cleaning dies would be aggressive copper solvents meant for cleaning rifle bores.  I've had this problem with a few dies, Pro Shot Copper Solvent IV seems to work great for me.  Very clean dies and freshly trimmed brass are a bad combination, the brass likes to gall on the fresh surface and stick tightly.



After cleaning the dies, a quick coating of Naval Jelly, then another cleaning leaves behind a phosphated surface (Naval Jelly is phosphoric acid, don't leave it for any time on the die as it can dissolve steel).  Rinse with hot water, then dry and oil to prevent rust.  Brass doesn't gall on the die as easily.



Another issue is preserving oils like CLP are inadequate for sizing lubrication.  Clean the dies before use and lightly coat with your case lube.  



 
Link Posted: 1/17/2013 11:14:23 PM EDT



Originally Posted By guitarmaniak:


Ok... so being the retard that I am I just accidentally bought some H110 pistol powder for my 300 blackout loads. I was so excited to finally get the last component of my reloading station that I saw h100 and grabbed it without checking the bottle. SO, my question is: is pistol powder the same as rifle??


H110 is magnum pistol powder that is also great in .30 Carbine, .22 Hornet and .410 shotgun.  All the same.



Same with IMR/H 4227,  Alliant 2400, Lil'Gun and AA 1680.  I'm glad AA brought out 1680 since Winchester 680 is my favorite for Hornet and .30 Carbine.  Should be great in the AAC Blackout.



 
Link Posted: 1/17/2013 11:21:52 PM EDT
Originally Posted By dryflash3:

Originally Posted By angus6:
Question time, since I dislike deburring will this work,

stage 2 deprime
stage 3 swage
stage 6 size and trim

chop them in cut-off

finish on a Gracey trimmer and thoughts on repowering the trimmer and skipping the cut-off saw

Sorry, not following your post.  

I found if I didn't debur before sizing/forming i got brass deposits in the neck of my sizing die.


Which caused the scratched necks.

Cleaned out die, and the scratches stopped.

I don't mind deburring now.
 


Guess I should have used station instead of stage that help ? Basically run them through the press, then cut the extra off with chop saw  and use the Gracey to finish trim to size, chamfer and debur
Link Posted: 1/18/2013 2:10:11 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Captain_Howdy:
yea, if you are gonna form your own cases you just need to accept the fact there is gonna be a bit of work involved.  I do it like so:


 1:  tumble brass

 2:  cut to initial length with chop saw

 3:  debur the freshly cut case

 4:   lube case and run through the sizing die

 5:   accomplish any primer pocket work that needs to be done: ream, clean, uniform...whatever it needs

 6:  final case trim...now it's time for the precision work

 7:  debur and chamfer the case mouth

 8:  back into the tumble for final cleaning, this removes lube and whatever else that got picked up in the processes

 9:  inspect and remove fod from the flash holes...now is when I do any kind of sorting that I may want to do as well

10:  prime and load or store prepped cases for later.


After some experimenting I found myself following these exact steps with good success.  Lots of work, but produces a really nice final result.
Link Posted: 1/18/2013 4:13:34 PM EDT
Originally Posted By AnthonyL:
Originally Posted By Captain_Howdy:
yea, if you are gonna form your own cases you just need to accept the fact there is gonna be a bit of work involved.  I do it like so:


 1:  tumble brass

 2:  cut to initial length with chop saw

 3:  debur the freshly cut case

 4:   lube case and run through the sizing die

 5:   accomplish any primer pocket work that needs to be done: ream, clean, uniform...whatever it needs

 6:  final case trim...now it's time for the precision work

 7:  debur and chamfer the case mouth

 8:  back into the tumble for final cleaning, this removes lube and whatever else that got picked up in the processes

 9:  inspect and remove fod from the flash holes...now is when I do any kind of sorting that I may want to do as well

10:  prime and load or store prepped cases for later.


After some experimenting I found myself following these exact steps with good success.  Lots of work, but produces a really nice final result.


yep, it does seem like a tedious process but the results speak for themselves.  I would rather spend a little more time and a bit of extra work than try to fix problems caused by taking shortcuts.  Some might think I tumble it too much but I have noticed the little saw I use leaves quite a bit of brass dust behind inside the cases.  So it just seams the best way to get it out is to tumble it.  And any time I use case lube I will always tumble it off before I load the case.  It's just more crap to gum up the chamber of your gun down the road, and I like to remove any kind of excess handling debris.

Dryflash commented on my use of FOD.  FOD can and is often used in various different ways, but basically it is a noun or verb type thing.  You have your foriegn object debris, which is anything that basically does not belong and can cause damage if not removed and you have your foriegn object damage, which is a dynamic action of debris that causes damage.  It doesn't matter if it is damage caused by an engine ingesting debris or maybe debris jamming up a flight control, the result is always catastrophic and it is attributed to FOD either way.  But yea, I have been working in aviation for years on all sorts of aircraft...now I am a helicopter guy.  I hate FOD, I dont want it in any of my stuff!

Link Posted: 1/18/2013 4:35:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/18/2013 4:44:20 PM EDT by Gearhead1940]
http://www.lehighdefense.com/index.php/shop/it-bullets-2/maximum-expansion-subsonic/74/.308-maximum-expansion,-200-gr,-subsonic-bullet-detail

Has anybody used the 200gr bullets from LeHigh Defense?  Been looking for some load data and haven't found anything - If nobody here has, I'll call and post it here for future reference.

Edit- Just called and phone was routed to a guy on the SHOT show floor at the LHD booth.  He said he will send me info next week!
Link Posted: 1/18/2013 4:53:19 PM EDT
Link Posted: 1/18/2013 7:04:37 PM EDT
H110 is fine, and is quite recommended for supersonic loads.

The label reads pistol powder, but that's like the label on Twinkies saying they make a nice snack. They make a good meal too, and H110 will run fine in a 300BLK
Link Posted: 1/18/2013 11:09:34 PM EDT
Anyone try any 190gr SMK with lil gun for subs? I have a bunch of both laying around and wanted to put it to good use.
Link Posted: 1/19/2013 7:19:21 AM EDT
Pardon me if this does not apply to this thread.

Does anyone have a list of usable supersonic bullets for 300 BLK?  

I am new to this cartridge, and it would be nice to have a list of part numbers so when I go to the local sportsmans warehouse or Cabellas I know I am not buying just any old 308 bullet that wont work properly.

So far I have found the Sierra Matchking 2121 seems like a useable bullet.
Link Posted: 1/19/2013 10:07:03 AM EDT
Three that come to mind are Hornady V-Max 110, Nosler 125 BT (ballistic tip) and Sierra #2120 (125 grain spire point). You can also look at the load data on the Hodgdon web site which lists the bullet ID in the first column of the load data chart (metallic cartridge/rifle/300 AAC Blackout).

Nick
Link Posted: 1/19/2013 11:56:44 AM EDT
Originally Posted By nikdfish:
Three that come to mind are Hornady V-Max 110, Nosler 125 BT (ballistic tip) and Sierra #2120 (125 grain spire point). You can also look at the load data on the Hodgdon web site which lists the bullet ID in the first column of the load data chart (metallic cartridge/rifle/300 AAC Blackout).

Nick


Thanks Nick.  Exactly the kind of info I have been needing.  That gives me 4 to look for.
Link Posted: 1/19/2013 1:48:55 PM EDT
Has anyone tried making 300 BLK out of 5.56 blanks?

I am assuming that brass is made the same way but just has a crimped neck.
Link Posted: 1/19/2013 3:33:33 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Vegitan:
Has anyone tried making 300 BLK out of 5.56 blanks?

I am assuming that brass is made the same way but just has a crimped neck.


You should try reading the first three pages.
Link Posted: 1/19/2013 4:27:45 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Vegitan:
Has anyone tried making 300 BLK out of 5.56 blanks?

I am assuming that brass is made the same way but just has a crimped neck.


check out this thread
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/362105_Can_5_56_M200_blanks_be_reloaded_as_live_ammo__Update__on_3rd_firing__56k_do_not_click_.html

This is for reloading .223 from .223 blanks, however it goes into the specifics of the brass. The OP concluded that the blanks were fit-for-duty, so I see no reason why you cannot use them for 300AAC
Link Posted: 1/19/2013 4:38:25 PM EDT
An alternative cutting option when forming modest amounts of 300BLK brass from 5.56/.223 is to use a tubing cutter.  Although not as fast as a chop saw with a jig, it makes less mess (no chips), and doesn't take up much space.  The example here is a spring loaded mini tubing cutter of the sort you could use for steel hydraulic tubing or copper refrigerant lines.



Line up the blade wheel just below the shoulder of the donor case.



Rotate & tighten till the cut is complete.  Alternatively, you can use a 1/2" variable speed drill to turn the case while holding the cutter stationary.  That's my preferred method.  (A 1/2" chuck will also accommodate the Lee trimmer cutter).



It is easy to be consistant, even without a jig, you just eyeball for the desired offset from the shoulder edge




Nick









Link Posted: 1/19/2013 5:52:06 PM EDT
Originally Posted By nikdfish:
An alternative cutting option when forming modest amounts of 300BLK brass from 5.56/.223 is to use a tubing cutter.  Although not as fast as a chop saw with a jig, it makes less mess (no chips), and doesn't take up much space.  The example here is a spring loaded mini tubing cutter of the sort you could use for steel hydraulic tubing or copper refrigerant lines.

http://www.skhowell.com/images/cutter-logo.jpg

Line up the blade wheel just below the shoulder of the donor case.

http://www.skhowell.com/images/cutter-alignment.jpg

Rotate & tighten till the cut is complete.  Alternatively, you can use a 1/2" variable speed drill to turn the case while holding the cutter stationary.  That's my preferred method.  (A 1/2" chuck will also accommodate the Lee trimmer cutter).

http://www.skhowell.com/images/cutter-on-drill.jpg

It is easy to be consistant, even without a jig, you just eyeball for the desired offset from the shoulder edge

http://www.skhowell.com/images/consistant-size.jpg


Nick











I tried that method in the beginning, my results were not the same as yours

Link Posted: 1/19/2013 7:02:37 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/19/2013 7:05:18 PM EDT by BC98]
Originally Posted By MRBLACK947:
Pardon me if this does not apply to this thread.

Does anyone have a list of usable supersonic bullets for 300 BLK?  
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Don't have part numbers but I've used Speer 125gr TNT, Federal 125gr LOTM, Federal 130gr SOST, Speer 130gr Varmint HP, 147gr M80 pulled FMJ, Hornady 150gr FMJ, Speer 168gr HPBT, and Sierra 175gr MatchKings for supersonic loads.

Some worked better than others but all shot pretty well.
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