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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 7/21/2002 7:48:12 AM EST
I want to do a LITTLE reliablility work to my new colt 1991A1. I think maybe polish the feed ramp will be my first task. I have never done it - does anyone know what they're doing enough to advise me how to go about it?
Link Posted: 7/21/2002 8:05:58 AM EST
Just polish do not remove any metal!
More 1911's have been ruined by this then
any other action by the novice.
Link Posted: 7/21/2002 8:25:28 AM EST
Supershooters right, just polish.

Steel wool and Flitz (or simular metal polish), buff till mirror bright.
Link Posted: 7/21/2002 8:42:16 AM EST
Sharpshooter is on the money with the advice to not remove metal. Keeping that in mind and depending on your budget, you can chose from several options.

My advice to non-Tim-Taylor-types (little or no hand tools about the house) is to go to the auto parts store in town that mixes automotive paint, and buy one sheet of successively finer grits of wet/dry silicon carbide sandpaper (the black colored stuff). You are looking for 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, and 1200; and 1500 if they have it. Strip the weapon down to the receiver and barrel and begin with a 1/2" or 3/4" wide strip of the 220 wrapped around the pad of your finger and LIGHT but firm and even pressure. You can use a bit of 3-in-1 oil on the paper (one drop!) to ensure only polishing of the high spots and no metal removal. A couple or three dozen back and forth rubs, then to the next finer paper, etc. With each successively finer grit, the surfaces will be getting smoother and "shinier". Do this to the feed ramp in the frame, and the bottom half of the beveled side walls of the chamber opening, from 3 o'clock to 9 o'clock. Wipe down the parts, oil, and reassemble. Good to go.

Some people use aluminum oxide abrasive stones or natural stones to do the polishing, but you need curved or rounded section stones to do the ramp, and most folks have no access to them unless by mail. The fine grit paper is available at any store selling auto refinishing paint and supplies.

Optionally, I like to polish the cocking surface on the underside center of the slide. This is a long, narrow rectangular strip in the center of the rear couple inches of the slide. It is the surface on which the bottom edge of the hammer face rides as the slide travels back under recoil. It serves to cock the hammer. I polish this surface and the contacting area of the hammer face, and the bottom curved edge of the firing pin retainer plate as well. This really reduces friction during cycling of the action, instead of the first several hundred rounds.

If that 1911 spits the empties back in your face or bounces them on your head instead of flinging them off tot he right, e-mail me for some instructions on how to modify the extractor hook to remedy.

Good luck with your piece!

Link Posted: 7/21/2002 12:04:28 PM EST
Go to your local auto parts store.....buy yourself a half dozen sheets of 1200 grit wet/dry sandpaper......use it on the feedramp till it is a mirror finish......don`t be afraid to wash it off with wd40 or equivelent.....run the paper around in the breech a few times also.......it won`t hurt......matter of fact...if there`s any trouble with extraction.......that`s how you throat it.....but A LITTLE AT A TIME.......don`t be afraid to use that 1200......it will not take off too much metal.......IF you have a problem.....you must experiment......part of the FUN of owning a 1911.....once you get it where you want it....it will never let you down............
Link Posted: 7/21/2002 12:06:28 PM EST
Get a recoil kit from wilson......next best mod you can make..........
Link Posted: 7/21/2002 5:35:45 PM EST
Thanks for the advise, no dremmel - gonna go with the wet/dry 1200 grit sandpaper. Well here it goes ..
Link Posted: 7/21/2002 11:22:23 PM EST
AWWwww! Use the Dremel! Use a felt pad and metal polish like Flitz or start with Jeweler's Rouge and then the metal polishing paste.
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