No flame AJohnston, but I think maybe you misunderstand part of Browning's design. The firing pin is inertial---it's too short to reach the primer when being held forward by the hammer. The firing pin spring is there to push the pin aft so it sticks out past the firing pin stop.
Then when the hammer smacks it, it COASTS forward to strike the primer. If the hammer is down on a live round in any 1911 clone, with or without the firing pin block, you can pound the hammer into pieces and not leave a mark on the primer. The hammer has to be withdrawn to allow the pin to move aft, then the pin has to acquire enough momentum from the hammer's impact to move forward against the firing pin spring with enough energy left over after reaching the primer to fire it.
That in fact is the key to the only possible inadvertent firing scenario when carried hammer down on a live round. In this mode, if the weapon is dropped on a hard surface muzzle down, the firing pin, along with the whole pistol of course, has acquired some momentum. When the pistol stops, there's nothing to stop the firing pin (in a gun without a firing pin block) and it will coast forward toward the primer as the rest of the weapon slows in the impact. If the height of drop is high enough, the surface impacted hard enough, and the direction of impact more or less in-line with the firing pin, it can acquire enough energy to fire the round in the chamber.
It takes a pretty fair drop to do it, but it can happen. The lighter the firing pin and the heavier the spring, the higher the velocity required and the greater the height of drop needed to fire the round. Like I said, with GI parts and ammo, it takes a height greater than most of us are tall to do it.
Safeties can wear, are very often butchered by kitchen table 'smiths', and can be brushed off by clothing or an ill-fitting/poorly designed holster. I've even found non-functional safeties on more than one fresh from the factory Colt. Anything mechanical can fail. Newton's laws of motion I trust.
As far as the time required to cock the hammer, try it sometime. Takes a lot less time than the draw and presentation do. Maybe it does require a bit more coordination and practice to handle with blinding speed, but frankly I've also always tried really hard to not get surprised and have never had an urgent need arise when it wasn't already in my hand.
If you're more comfortable with cocked and locked, stay with it by all means, just be sure to verify the function of all the bits and pieces required to keep it safe.
Oh, and one last thing, that half cock notch is a very poor backup when a hammer drops unintentionally. It will very often break off the half cock bosses from the hammer or just shear off the sear nose and continue on down.
Not trying to change your views, just making sure the newbies who also read here understand the mechanics.
Pat